New Break Pads question - Serious Help/Advice needed

[kngpen]

Hi, I need to replace the break pads on my front passenger side of the car because its noisly rubbing metal to metal and his been this way for the last 2-3 days. I was wondering where I should buy them from and how hard are they to install. I really have a tight schedule and dont really want to fork over money right now. This is a real dilemma that this is happening to me right now. This BMW is pissing me off big time with its little problem after problem so OWHT)#U%)(U)(#%U)(#%()#U. LoL you get the point. Especially after all the nice things I buy it like the bliesten shocks and H&R springs that are coming this week. Should I goto the BMW dealership to get the break pads or order them from BMA? How long do I have to ride around in the current state of metal on metal. I might need a new rotor from driving around like this but I had orignally planned to buy some of those brembo slotted drilled big ones anyways. Thats why iam kind of pissed this had to happen now. Any suggestions? Bottom line, Iam riding around scared of that treacherous rubbing and screaching when I break coming from the passenger side front of the car. Working a full load and 12 hours of college doesnt help either.

[Bimmer Nut Ed]

I'd just buy it all from BMA, rotors and everything.

But in your case, with what you want to do, and your current load. I would suggest just buying the cheapest pads you can from Autozone and throw them on for now. The job is real easy. Most of the work will be lifting the car and removing the tire. But you will need a 8 mm hex socket. I believe it's 8mm (someone correct me). Just get that at autozone when you get your pads. Then order all your new stuff and install them as soon as possible.

[winfred]

7mm on the caliper pins

[Bimmer Nut Ed]

Thanks Winfred. Now I remember how hard it was to find that 7mm, all the hex sets I found at the time skipped from 6mm to 8mm.


7mm on the caliper pins

[kngpen]

Alright I`am going to goto autozone buy a cheap pair and install those tommorrow. Any1 know if theres a step-by-step procedure listed anywhere? I just ordered 2 front brembo cross-drilled rotors and some front pagid break pads as well. They should be here in 2-3 days, is it safe to wait?

[Bill R.]

Raybestos QS series ceramic pads.. I have installed no brake pads that give me fewer problems than these on every car. quiet, dust free, excellent stopping power and readily available.








Alright I`am going to goto autozone buy a cheap pair and install those tommorrow. Any1 know if theres a step-by-step procedure listed anywhere? I just ordered 2 front brembo cross-drilled rotors and some front pagid break pads as well. They should be here in 2-3 days, is it safe to wait?

[Unregistered]

I am replacing my brakes this week. I just ordered Balo rotors and mintex pads from BMA. Should be here tomorrow. i'm a newbie to DIY stuff and have never done my brakes before. So I need some major help. I looked at Bmwe34.net for the write up. I wanted to confirm what tools I needed before removing my wheels and finding out I don't have the right tools and parts. My car is a 90 e34 525i. I'm not sure if the bolt size and brakes are the same on all e34's. I've seen different sizes from 2 seperate DIY's. So what tools do I need exactly???

pad carrier bolts? 19mm or 15mm socket wrench
caliper guide bolts? 10mm or 7mm.
rotor mounting bolt? 6mm allen wrench

Also I think I need a C-Clamp. Is this necessary? Please let me know if I forgot anything else. In case I have to run to Home Depot.

Thanks.

[Paul in NZ]

when you compres the pistons back into the calipers watch the brake fluid.As you push the pistons back in(that is what the c clamp is for) you will push fluid from the calipers back up the lines into the resevoir.If you have kept the fluid topped up it may overflow......it did on my last car :( .While you are at it bleed out all your old fluid.There may be a caution related to ABS but i am not sure

[Javier]

advise is very clever, remove with a syringe must of the fluid of your reservoir before pressing back the pistons, at the end refill with fresh fluid. If you need to change fluid, bleed as usual until clear fluid shows, keeping top fluid in the reservoir. DO NOT ALLOW THE SYSTEM TO SUCK IN AIR.

[Javier]

nor resurfaced rotors, then below picture ilustrates what may be happening. If so, grinding out may buy you some extra days. You will know if braking surfaces are in good shape, but pad bases show wearing from the rotor edges.

[warton]

advise is very clever, remove with a syringe must of the fluid of your reservoir before pressing back the pistons, at the end refill with fresh fluid. If you need to change fluid, bleed as usual until clear fluid shows, keeping top fluid in the reservoir. DO NOT ALLOW THE SYSTEM TO SUCK IN AIR.



...was that the brake master cylinder coincidentally started leaking just after I changed the brake pads. Perhaps it was because I didn't remove enough fluid?

Peter

[dave b]

You will need a c -clamp to compress the pads to get them back on. Just buy a medium one at sears for about $5.

I thought the only downside to not removing most of the fluid was that you would have a mess in your engine compartment. But I'm usually wrong.

[InfernoM3]

Hey Guys I really need some help. I only got so far as removing my wheel and brake sensor. the caliper bolts were stuck like a mutha. I used a 7mm allen key wrench. I'm gonna try and get a hex socket later today. I didn't know here was a difference. I guess more torque w/ this. Also the rotor hex head bolt was stripped too. So I have no way of getting it out. I think I was told i can drill it out w/ drill extractor? my car is sitting on jack stands right now and can't drive it and I really don't want to bring it to a ship. Thanks for the help guys.

[Javier]

them, the bolt holding the rotor in place can be drilled out, get out the rotor and then remove its remains with a visegrip. You'll need a new bolt thoug.

[InfernoM3]

Yah i was smart and ordered new rotor screws but I hope I dont' ahve go get new caliper bolts. Anyone have the Part number. Also how can I put WD 40 to loosen the caliper bolts. Its really hard to get in there since the bolts are on the backside of the caliper and I think the bolts are in some sleave. I sprayed some on the trying to get on the outside of the bolt head to get in and didn't do much. Thanks.




them, the bolt holding the rotor in place can be drilled out, get out the rotor and then remove its remains with a visegrip. You'll need a new bolt thoug.