540i/a Shifting

[bsell]

Once the car is warm, the problem is eliminated. The car was fine when we got it, I did a "shogun reset" everything was fine, until about a week later.

So the reset 'fixes' the cold shifting problem, if only for a week at a time? That sounds like a funky trans computer. If it was a sticking solenoid or something mechanical in the valve body, what difference would it make, resetting the trans computer?

My knowledge/experience with this car is not that great but this possible temperature-related electrical problem sounds like others I've seen in other cars/systems.

I guess the good news is, if the trans computer is dying a slow death, it will one day confirm its ill health by dying outright.:(

Brian

[Phatty5BMW]

Hey guys my dad bought a 95 540/a. With the car cold, at first drive off the trans is wanting to go to 4k rpms before shifting. Its never done this in the first few weeks of ownership, but seems to be doing it more often. Its doing this in second gear. First gear seems to be ok, but its second gear thats doing it. Once the car is warm, the problem is eliminated. The car was fine when we got it, I did a "shogun reset" everything was fine, until about a week later. Is there any cables or anything that can be adjusted?

I feel like a total noob right now but whatever, I am asking your guys opinon. My 535 has never had a shifting issue so I don't know where to start. He is in Chicago right now with the car, he is going to do another reset on it and maybe see if that clears it up. Any info would really be appreciated!! Thanks guys!

-Pat

[Tiger]

What is the mileage on that car? I would change the fluid and filter at this point.

[Phatty5BMW]

So the reset 'fixes' the cold shifting problem, if only for a week at a time? That sounds like a funky trans computer. If it was a sticking solenoid or something mechanical in the valve body, what difference would it make, resetting the trans computer?

My knowledge/experience with this car is not that great but this possible temperature-related electrical problem sounds like others I've seen in other cars/systems.

I guess the good news is, if the trans computer is dying a slow death, it will one day confirm its ill health by dying outright.:(

Brian


Well see thats the weird thing. The car didn't do anything abnormal when he bought it.

Car still shifted fine up until I did the reset procedure on it.

About a week or so AFTER the reset procedure, it started hanging up on second gear. This is why I am a little stumped if it would be an electrical issue or mechanical. There was no trans problem up until then. I am not saying the reset caused it at all, just wondering if anyone knows what it may be or what I can check. Thanks guys.

-Pat

[Phatty5BMW]

What is the mileage on that car? I would change the fluid and filter at this point.

158,xxx is the mileage on it. I have been reading posts about the whole lifetime fluid thing. What is the best recomendation that you guys think. I know there is a lot of technical posts on here, but an easy answer would be great :) From what we know and what it looked like, the car had been serviced at a bmw dealer most of its life. Everything is damn near immaculate on it, and this is really the first issue that we have come acrossed so far.

-Pat

[tim s]

Full Name: Kirt Koeller
Job Title: ZF Transmission Expert
Company: Auto Sports Unlimited

Business: (800) 624-3876 ex 5735
Business 2: (616) 748-5735

E-mail: europetransman@hotmail.com

[MBXB]

I screwed around with this very issue last year at around 153K.
First, I'd check under the car for any sign of leaks. Your fluid level may be down. In my case, I didnt have a leak.
Changed the fluid and filter. The filter was the old style which had collapsed on itself.
Get a Filtran filter from BMW dealer; fluid was Pennzoil Multivehicle ATF.
Cheap, and it works.
Did the "slop fluid in the face" fillup. Look in the archives for the fluid/filter R&R.
It was fine for about three months. Changed the fluid again.
It improved for another 3 months then the shifting went dangerously bad.
I finally replaced with a rebuilt 5HP30 last month.
I checked my records and the valve body had been replaced by BMW/ZF at 85K. So i figured the trans was just wearing out.

[Tiger]

I still would do a fluid and filter change first. My car, at 105,000 miles, my valve body went caput. I had Kirt rebuid it for me and I reinstalled it with new fluids and filter. I used Pennzoil MultiVehicle ATF... this is 2001 or 2. I think I was the first to use it. No problem ever since.

I would change the fluid a couple of times before I actually change the filter if I were you. Drain and fill it with Pennzoil ATF 2 times and wait a couple days of driving in between. By the third time, I would drop the pan and change the filter too.

When I did my valve body, virtually all the fluid came out... I collected nearly 10 quarts and put in I think about 11 as I did lose some new fluid. No problem with tranny since then.

As for MBXB's case, I think his rebuilt valve body was failing... maybe worn gear selenoid and/or speed sensor. He said it was running beautiful and all of the sudden it start slipping... sounds like valve body to me. I am not sure if his car was a city car or highway or average... all is a serious factor on condition of the transmission.

[Phatty5BMW]

Nobody else has any suggestions?

-Pat

[MBXB]

Before I went thru all that fluid changing, I did the 'shogun' reset several times, and even swapped out the trans chip; eliminating the chip as a possible problem. So the next step was the fluid/filter.

[Mr._Graybeard]

If the fluid were low, it would probably whine noticeably, especially when cold.

You could reflow the solder joints in the control unit, especially at the connector. A cracked solder connection might give you intermittent problems. Get one of those lighted gooseneck magnifiers to help with the job if your eyes are as bad as mine.

The online ETM that's out there for the '95 E34 includes the pin layout for the control unit, so you could get some ohmmeter readings on the trans temperature sensor and solenoids on the valve body. I'd collect those numbers and call Kirt to see if they're within spec.

[MBXB]

http://www.e38.org/e32/zftroubleshooting/

http://www.e38.org/zf-5hp30-service.html

[Phatty5BMW]

Quick question, I cant seem to find it on realoem. What is the cable that is right UNDER the throttle body, on the drivers side. Could you guys give me a specific location to the cable adjustment as per the link you sent.

Thanks much guys

-Pat

[MBXB]

Cruise Control


Quick question, I cant seem to find it on realoem. What is the cable that is right UNDER the throttle body, on the drivers side. Could you guys give me a specific location to the cable adjustment as per the link you sent.

Thanks much guys

-Pat

[MBXB]

I'll tear into that old 5HP30 that's sitting in my garage and check it out.
The is one HEAVY tranny!



I still would do a fluid and filter change first. My car, at 105,000 miles, my valve body went caput. I had Kirt rebuid it for me and I reinstalled it with new fluids and filter. I used Pennzoil MultiVehicle ATF... this is 2001 or 2. I think I was the first to use it. No problem ever since.

I would change the fluid a couple of times before I actually change the filter if I were you. Drain and fill it with Pennzoil ATF 2 times and wait a couple days of driving in between. By the third time, I would drop the pan and change the filter too.

When I did my valve body, virtually all the fluid came out... I collected nearly 10 quarts and put in I think about 11 as I did lose some new fluid. No problem with tranny since then.

As for MBXB's case, I think his rebuilt valve body was failing... maybe worn gear selenoid and/or speed sensor. He said it was running beautiful and all of the sudden it start slipping... sounds like valve body to me. I am not sure if his car was a city car or highway or average... all is a serious factor on condition of the transmission.

[RallyD]

i doubt that a cable adjustment would affect your symptoms.
what if the a/m switch is set to manual and 3 is selected? will it go to 3rd or stay in 2nd? that might be one way to isolate whether the problem is mechanical or electrical

[Phatty5BMW]

There are 2 cables on the main throttle body, then on the bottom side of the throttle body, there is another cable. I can't seem to figure out what it is. The car is 3 hours away from me, so I can't just go out there and look, but I know there is another cable that goes to something somewhere lol.

[Mr._Graybeard]

i doubt that a cable adjustment would affect your symptoms.


I agree. Other than the shift selector, there are no mechanical controls such as cables or vacuum modulators. It's all electronic.

I had a minor shifting problem with my 540 (the torque converter lockup, really) and talked to Kirt about it. His primary recommendation was to reflow the solder joints in the control unit. Beyond that, he said, drive it til something worse happens.

In my case, the reflow didn't help as much as a Dinan trans chip (I still think the resolder is worth a try).

BTW, those M60 drivers with Alusil replacement blocks and slightly erratic transmissions may want to open up their transmission control units for a look at the chip inside. My car had a chip that did not resemble the one Dinan told me to expect to find.

[repenttokyo]

how cold is it where you live?

[Phatty5BMW]

Ok I talked to him about the car again today, he did another reset on the car. He said before that the car will do the "gear hang" only for a mile, then all is fine. Today, I told him to listen very closely for a whine in the trans. He said in first gear it had a minor whine, that lasted for 1-2 seconds and was gone. No other whining in any other gears or anything. I don't know if that will help any of you putting a finger on it, but I am guessing it needs a fluid change.

Any info you guys can offer, I am all ears. Thanks a million guys.

-Pat

[Phatty5BMW]

how cold is it where you live?

It was about 30 or so this morning, when he drove it, it was about 45 or so? somewhere near there.

[charlie]

What is "reflowing the solder joints" all about?


I agree. Other than the shift selector, there are no mechanical controls such as cables or vacuum modulators. It's all electronic.

I had a minor shifting problem with my 540 (the torque converter lockup, really) and talked to Kirt about it. His primary recommendation was to reflow the solder joints in the control unit. Beyond that, he said, drive it til something worse happens.

In my case, the reflow didn't help as much as a Dinan trans chip (I still think the resolder is worth a try).

BTW, those M60 drivers with Alusil replacement blocks and slightly erratic transmissions may want to open up their transmission control units for a look at the chip inside. My car had a chip that did not resemble the one Dinan told me to expect to find.

[MBXB]

Reflowing a solder joint involve reheating the joint and getting the solder to completely reflow to make the connection secure.
Joints can get intermittent due to vibration, temperature or a faulty solder flow to begin with (called a cold solder).

[Ross]

If "gear hang" means that it shifts a bit late when cold this is normal.
The higher revs help the cats light. It's painful to hear a cold engine rev like that I know.

[charlie]

but where? in the transmission?


Reflowing a solder joint involve reheating the joint and getting the solder to completely reflow to make the connection secure.
Joints can get intermittent due to vibration, temperature or a faulty solder flow to begin with (called a cold solder).

[Mr._Graybeard]

but where? in the transmission?

The control unit is under the black cover near the firewall on the right side of the car, along with the ECU and (IIRC) the ABS control unit. You'll see the cover is in its own little compartment in the corner of the engine bay opposite from the fuse box.

[MBXB]

http://www.bimmerboard.com/forums/posts/356031