Car wont start, is it the battery or altenator?

[Calico_NC]

I left the lights on in my car for about 5-6-7 hours, and now my car wont start. I was also low on gas, so I put some in. I tried jumping the car for about 10 minutes, but it didnt start. I took the cables off and tried to start the car without the cables, and it got worse. So thats why i was thinking it was the battery, BUT, my lights still work and my radio does too. Headlights as well. I did test #9 on my OBC, and it read 10.50, and decreased from there for as long as my car stayed on. What does this actually mean? Does it means my battery is dead or my alternator is broken? I haven't tried to jump the car while doing test #9. Should the voltage increase or would that make a difference? It's dark now, so I have to wait till morning to check, but I need a lil help.

[Mr. BILL]

your battery is kaput. check Autozone

[bad_manners_god]

I left the lights on in my car for about 5-6-7 hours, and now my car wont start. I was also low on gas, so I put some in. I tried jumping the car for about 10 minutes, but it didnt start. I took the cables off and tried to start the car without the cables, and it got worse. So thats why i was thinking it was the battery, BUT, my lights still work and my radio does too. Headlights as well. I did test #9 on my OBC, and it read 10.50, and decreased from there for as long as my car stayed on. What does this actually mean? Does it means my battery is dead or my alternator is broken? I haven't tried to jump the car while doing test #9. Should the voltage increase or would that make a difference? It's dark now, so I have to wait till morning to check, but I need a lil help.

You should be reading at the very least 11.59 with test #9 on the obc, thats the minimum I started it with.

When you boosted the car with cables, was the other car running. Also, when running test #9 on the obc and the car has been started it should be reading 13.94 to 14.40

When trying to started, turn off ALL accesories that drain power, i.e. Radio, Lights, Heating

[Calico_NC]

You should be reading at the very least 11.59 with test #9 on the obc, thats the minimum I started it with.

When you boosted the car with cables, was the other car running. Also, when running test #9 on the obc and the car has been started it should be reading 13.94 to 14.40

When trying to started, turn off ALL accesories that drain power, i.e. Radio, Lights, Heating

Yeah the other car was running, how long do you think It should take to charge enough to start?

[bad_manners_god]

Yeah the other car was running, how long do you think It should take to charge enough to start?

What kind of car did you boost from? Sometimes 1.6L 4 Cylinder batteries aren't enough for our 2.5L 6 Cylinder's

Well, I don't know the exact time to charge, but when you do attach the cables, enter test #9 and try to start when its around 12V.....

If your battery can't hold the charge of 12V for very long, then it's time to replace your battery.

You can start the car with the battery and then disconnect the battery, that's how you know the alternator is good because it's generating enough power to keep the engine running on its own.

[Sixdown]

Get a new battery, as some people have already mentioned.

My system keeps a steady 13.60 and when I do leave the lights on for around 40 minutes, it can reach 11.50, but I am still able to start the car.

[Calico_NC]

i recently got my battery about 1-1 1/2 years ago. I don't think it should be dead already should it. Anyway, i'll try again tomorrow, if it does the same, i'll no other choice.

BTW, I got a jump from a 1995 Maxima and a 1991 Acura Legend. I dont know what the cylinder numbers were.

[bad_manners_god]

i recently got my battery about 1-1 1/2 years ago. I don't think it should be dead already should it. Anyway, i'll try again tomorrow, if it does the same, i'll no other choice.

BTW, I got a jump from a 1995 Maxima and a 1991 Acura Legend. I dont know what the cylinder numbers were.

6 CYL for both...

Batteries are usually good for about 3 years, HOWEVER, when you drain them till they're very low, they tend to lose a large portion of their charge.

You can always just buy the fluid that goes in the batteries, it's much cheaper and worth a try IMO.

[leicesterboy15]

Most batteries are maintenance free these days so you can't get in them to top up. My guess is that your battery is really flat and jumping it didn't provide enough power either because the battery is soo low, your leads were not good enough or they were not contacting properly. Maybe try again with a different set of leads and double check the contacts? This will probably get you going but once a battery goes flat its never the same again. Or you could try charging the battery over night if you can get your hands on a car battery charger, longer term though only a new one will sort you out. My battery would go flat if I didn't use the car for any more than 24hours so I was forever charging it, in the end I replaced the battery with a good bosch one and the difference was amazing, I think the one I pulled was the original BMW battery so it was 9 years old!

[whiskychaser]

Seems like you have two problems - wont start and low battery. Did your engine turn over properly when you jump started it? As you tried two cars my guess is not. In which case perhaps try heavy duty jump leads as Leicesterboy suggests. If you can see the electrolite in the battery and its cloudy the battery is probably past it. But if not I'd definitely put it on a trickle charge for about 12 hours as you may well be able to save it.

[BMWCCA1]

Could have wet the plugs trying to start it with the low battery. Try cranking it with the pedal to the floor, or take the plugs out and replace/clean them.


I took my battery to Autozone, and they charged it for me. I put it back in my car, and it still wont start. The car isn't struggling to crank though. To be sure the battery wasn't dead, i got a jump from the same Acura Legend. The test read 13.07 before the crank and after the crank it still was in the 12's. So what else could it be? I'm lost.
__________________

(Edit: This post should be #14, darn forum clock!!!)

[bimmo_2007]

I would say Battrey, the same thing happend to me once. as bad_manners_god said the OBC #9 test should at least 11.9 else it won't start.

[Calico_NC]

Well i guess i'll have to get a new battery. Would Autozone suffice.lol Since im walking there, and it's one up the street.

[Calico_NC]

I took my battery to Autozone, and they charged it for me. I put it back in my car, and it still wont start. The car isn't struggling to crank though. To be sure the battery wasn't dead, i got a jump from the same Acura Legend. The test read 13.07 before the crank and after the crank it still was in the 12's. So what else could it be? I'm lost.

[bad_manners_god]

I took my battery to Autozone, and they charged it for me. I put it back in my car, and it still wont start. The car isn't struggling to crank though. To be sure the battery wasn't dead, i got a jump from the same Acura Legend. The test read 13.07 before the crank and after the crank it still was in the 12's. So what else could it be? I'm lost.

Is there enough gas in the car?

Bad Fuel Filter
Bad Fuel Pump
Bad Fuel Pump Relay
Bad Spark Plugs

Sounds like it's mostly dealing with fuel issues if it's cranking no problem.

[Calico_NC]

yeah, there is enough gas in the car. I don't know how to check for the other things, but I had the fuel pump replaced by BMW not over 2 yrs ago. As far as spark plugs go, i wouldn't know where to look or start.lol.

My only gripe is that the car ran absolutely fine prior to me leaving my lights on. I was low on gas, but i put at least 3 gallons in since then, and it still hasn't started. Could something have happened in the time I left my lights on until now, thats not battery related. It seems like a big coincidence for something like the fuel pump to give out on the exact same day my battery dies, unless the two are related in some way. But I don't know much about cars.

I'm gonna try BMWCCA suggestion, if that doesn't work, I'll have to take it to get checked out, because I don't know much about cars. UNLESS, someone can give me a tutoiral on what to do next. lol

[525i winter driver]

yeah, there is enough gas in the car. I don't know how to check for the other things, but I had the fuel pump replaced by BMW not over 2 yrs ago. As far as spark plugs go, i wouldn't know where to look or start.lol.

My only gripe is that the car ran absolutely fine prior to me leaving my lights on. I was low on gas, but i put at least 3 gallons in since then, and it still hasn't started. Could something have happened in the time I left my lights on until now, thats not battery related. It seems like a big coincidence for something like the fuel pump to give out on the exact same day my battery dies, unless the two are related in some way. But I don't know much about cars.

I'm gonna try BMWCCA suggestion, if that doesn't work, I'll have to take it to get checked out, because I don't know much about cars. UNLESS, someone can give me a tutoiral on what to do next. lol
maybe you fried the fuel pump relay or something else in the electrical system when you were boosting.
if your starter is cranking but the car is not catching, i think you ought to be able to smell fuel around the engine bay if your fuel delivery system is working properly.

[bad_manners_god]

yeah, there is enough gas in the car. I don't know how to check for the other things, but I had the fuel pump replaced by BMW not over 2 yrs ago. As far as spark plugs go, i wouldn't know where to look or start.lol.

My only gripe is that the car ran absolutely fine prior to me leaving my lights on. I was low on gas, but i put at least 3 gallons in since then, and it still hasn't started. Could something have happened in the time I left my lights on until now, thats not battery related. It seems like a big coincidence for something like the fuel pump to give out on the exact same day my battery dies, unless the two are related in some way. But I don't know much about cars.

I'm gonna try BMWCCA suggestion, if that doesn't work, I'll have to take it to get checked out, because I don't know much about cars. UNLESS, someone can give me a tutoiral on what to do next. lol

When your cranking, dont hold the gas to the floor, instead pump it, you should be able to hear if the engine is catching.

I know you put 3 gallons which is like $10 of gas I assume.....how is your car parked right now, on a straight road or slanted. If so, is the nose of the car pointing down or is it pointing up.

If there really wasn't alot of gas in the car and the nose is in the air, the pump could not be catching enough fuel. I say this because 1 time I filled up my tank halfway and parked nose up in my drive-way and started the car after and the fuel reading said a quarter tank.

So I pulled out of the driveway and started driving on regular straight roads and the needle moved back up to the halfway mark in a few minutes.

[Ferret]

When your cranking, dont hold the gas to the floor, instead pump it, you should be able to hear if the engine is catching.


It was suggested that you hold the pedal to the floor because this causes Bosch ECUs to go into 'Flooded Start' mode and it tries to limit the amount of fuel it sprays down the bores.

Deep discharging a wet cell battery causes all kinds of problems - did you get AutoZone to on-load check your battery while you were there? Sometimes the plates start to disintegrate during deep-discharge, and it doesnt become apparent until you try drawing starter-amperages from them - the internal resistance becomes high enough to cause a big enough electrical brown out that the ECU just point blank refuses to kick in.

Does it cough at all while kicking it over, or is it just plain dead? Crank it, and check see if your plugs are wet immediately afterwards... put a voltmeter over your fuel pump terminals while you do it as well.

[Calico_NC]

I guess the car is parked kinda level. There is no extreme difference to the naked eye. I remember when i was trying to start it, my friend mentioned how he smelled gas (don't really know from where, but I was the only car outside trying to start my car, so im guessing it was me.), i smelled it too. What does that mean?

I'll also try pumping it, because it seems as if it was right on the verge of turning on, but never did.

[bad_manners_god]

I guess the car is parked kinda level. There is no extreme difference to the naked eye. I remember when i was trying to start it, my friend mentioned how he smelled gas (don't really know from where, but I was the only car outside trying to start my car, so im guessing it was me.), i smelled it too. What does that mean?

I'll also try pumping it, because it seems as if it was right on the verge of turning on, but never did.

It means you have to find out from where the smell is coming from because it could be a cut hose, blocked fuel filter or something else thats loosing enough pressure to not start the car.

[EngPhys09]

I had this problem a month ago, pour some gas line water remover wait 15mins and let it start.

My car was cranking but wouldn't turn over.
If you tank was so low you may have some condensation in it.

Let me know if that fixes it, you may of also got some dirty gas, never the less never park your car on empty, just bad news. :(

[Tiger]

If you still haven't figure it out yet, your problem is not the battery or alternator. I would want to check if you have any spark at this time. Take a coil pack out, hook up a spark plug to it and ground the spark plug to some metal part on car that you are positive with a ground... use jumper cable and ground it to the strut mount bolt.

If no spark, it is most likely your Crank Position Sensor.

[Calico_NC]

I had this problem a month ago, pour some gas line water remover wait 15mins and let it start.

My car was cranking but wouldn't turn over.
If you tank was so low you may have some condensation in it.

Let me know if that fixes it, you may of also got some dirty gas, never the less never park your car on empty, just bad news. :(

Are you talking about this? If so, im trying this as well. It cant hurt to try right?
http://a1061.g.akamai.net/7/1061/5412/home/www.walgreens.com/dbimagecache/388921.jpg

[EngPhys09]

Are you talking about this? If so, im trying this as well. It cant hurt to try right?
http://a1061.g.akamai.net/7/1061/5412/home/www.walgreens.com/dbimagecache/388921.jpg


Yep $5 wont hurt

[whiskychaser]

If you still haven't figure it out yet, your problem is not the battery or alternator. I would want to check if you have any spark at this time. Take a coil pack out, hook up a spark plug to it and ground the spark plug to some metal part on car that you are positive with a ground... use jumper cable and ground it to the strut mount bolt.

If no spark, it is most likely your Crank Position Sensor.
x1
I'd chuck an egg cupfull of fuel down the intake and try to start it. The low fuel issue seems a bit too coincidental

[Calico_NC]

okay, all good advice im gonna try em all until I figure out what the problem is. I'll report back.

[Calico_NC]

it's the 02 sensor. Its two of them thats bad. One for $405 and one for $145. Just my luck!

[EngPhys09]

it's the 02 sensor. Its two of them thats bad. One for $405 and one for $145. Just my luck!

Look around, I got mine from Auto Parts Online Canada for $45
I think there must be somewhere cheaper in the US.

[Calico_NC]

Just to go into further detail, I got the car running (had to spray some kind of starting fluid), but i had to hold the accelerator down so it wouldn't cut off. I filled up the car with gas and added some Gas Treatment stuff. It drove fine,but as soon as you came to a stop, it shut off. I manage to drive it to a good auto shop close by.The employee (at Korman Autoworks) said that one of the sensors that controls the air flow ratio (or some sh!t) had gone bad which caused the car to shut off. Also, they said that the O2 sensor was bad. All together the price for it would be about 700 and some odd dollars (labor included i think). Do you think that sounds about right. I told them to go ahead and proceed, and it should be finished by Monday Morning. Just my luck.

[EngPhys09]

Just to go into further detail, I got the car running (had to spray some kind of starting fluid), but i had to hold the accelerator down so it wouldn't cut off. I filled up the car with gas and added some Gas Treatment stuff. It drove fine,but as soon as you came to a stop, it shut off. I manage to drive it to a good auto shop close by.The employee (at Korman Autoworks) said that one of the sensors that controls the air flow ratio (or some sh!t) had gone bad which caused the car to shut off. Also, they said that the O2 sensor was bad. All together the price for it would be about 700 and some odd dollars (labor included i think). Do you think that sounds about right. I told them to go ahead and proceed, and it should be finished by Monday Morning. Just my luck.


Your paying far too much! It takes like 5 minutes to change the your o2 sensors.

[Sixdown]

700 bucks is ridiculous...in every way possible. If they're changing out something other than the O2 sensors, then maybe. Otherwise, don't spend that much.

[Calico_NC]

I was suppose to get my car back today, but the employee told me that they didn't know what was wrong with it. They said it was giving off different codes even after they replaced the parts they initially thought it was. They thought I had fried the computer because they saw my backseat up with the jumper cables on the floor (they thought I had tried to get a jump from the back seat), but I informed them that was only up because I took the battery out to get it charged. So, bottom line they don't know what's going on with it. So im reaching out to the board to see if anyone know what could be wrong with it.

Here's the problem, I got the car to start, but it wont stay on unless the accelerator is pressed down. Once the rpm drops below 1000, the car shuts off. Sometimes it would stay on without the accelerator being pressed down. So, does anyone know what could be the problem?

[Calico_NC]

They called back an informed me that the Catalytic Converter was bad. After market costs about 925 while factory costs 1700. I opted for the after market one. Can anyone confirm that the converter would be the cause of my problems?

[bad_manners_god]

They called back an informed me that the Catalytic Converter was bad. After market costs about 925 while factory costs 1700. I opted for the after market one. Can anyone confirm that the converter would be the cause of my problems?

Defiently Not, the Cat has nothing to do with it because our oxygen sensor is before the cat.

And for the 925 after-market for an OE one, you could have the whole exhaust line re-done at almost any customiziation shop.

[Robin-535im]

They called back an informed me that the Catalytic Converter was bad. After market costs about 925 while factory costs 1700. I opted for the after market one. Can anyone confirm that the converter would be the cause of my problems?

The CC effects the emissions, and unless it's totally clogged it should have no effect on idle. Hate to say it but it sounds to me like this shop is just shooting from the hip - at your expense.

The most common code that the car flashes is the O2 code. It is rarely the case that the O2 sensor is the cause, usually it is a vacuum leak. That means they're chasing the O2 code like it's real (hence the O2 sensor and then the cat that "need changing"). How do they know the cat is causing it not to idle? That makes no sense...

I would tell them that you will only pay for the cat conv. IF it fixes the problem. If they install the cat and it still doesn't idle (which it won't), tell them you don't want to pay.

Search the forum for vacuum leaks and you will see that a) they are extremely common, and b) they can cause the car to not idle.

On my 535, if you pull the oil filler cap while the car is running, it will behave like yours does - runs with throttle but will not idle.

I'm betting that some hose got knocked off somewhere while you were working on jumping it and if you hook up that hose and drive around a while, the car will go back to normal.

just my two cents... but the catalytic converter is an emissions issue, not an idle issue, and it is way too expensive to "just try it out" to see if it fixes the problem. If they want to experiment with guessing what's wrong - have them do that on their own nickel!


EDIT - just read you said it was Korman BMW that is doing the work? I would sure think they would know what was wrong. I am at a loss... unless they have a junior tech OR it really is the catalytic converter, which doesn't make any sense to me.

[whiskychaser]

It cant be good when a BMW dealership cant sort your problem. All this because your ran it a bit low on fuel? You must feel like Basil when he takes to beating the 1100 with a bush:( Hope you get it sorted soon

[Tiger]

Did you get your old cat back? You can sell the old cat to recycler for good change if it is OE.

[Calico_NC]

I got my car back the other day, and it drives excellent. I think the repair shop was right with diagnosing the Cat converter because all of the trouble I had with poor acceleration are gone. Im thinking it was so clogged up, that it didnt accelerate properly. Car starts up fine and drives good. Thats worth the $1800 dollars I spent to get it fixed.

Invoice and summary.
http://i32.tinypic.com/dfhszo.jpg

http://i32.tinypic.com/2qtbqyp.jpg

[Calico_NC]

Did you get your old cat back? You can sell the old cat to recycler for good change if it is OE.

no. I didnt know. The repair shop probably kept it

[bad_manners_god]

no. I didnt know. The repair shop probably kept it

You could have sold it for a good chunk of change....200-350