Car washing/ detailing product preferences please...

[repenttokyo]

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Nice! Thank you..and if you happen to remember the name of the 3 step polish system the next time you get out of bed that would be great! Thanks again!

It's called the Deep Crystal system - I have been using it as well, but I think I am going to switch to pure carnauba and get away from polymer waxes.

[scotbotmosh]

So as the new owner of my 525iT I want to take care of it, and I don't want to use just any old car washing products, I want the good stuff...if you can help me out with some good products that you have used I will check them out. I would appreciate it. I used to use Meguiars products let me know your thoughts on those. Otherwise anyone here heard of Race Glaze?

If you have any suggestions on products for these cleaning areas please toss them in the hat!

Car Soap
Car Wax
Detailing Spray
Leather Cleaner
Leather Conditioner
Aluminum rim cleaner
Tire cleaner
Dashboard and misc. interior trim cleaner
Anything else I may have left out.


Thanks again!

[Russell]

The following is what I TRY to follow :)


Weekly/every two weeks

· Hand wash car. Use a quality car wash. IMO, most brand name car wash products seem about the same quality. Do not use dish soap unless you are removing ALL wax in preparation to sealing/waxing. Dawn is preferred. I use separate wash buckets. One bucket with two mitts for the wheels, tires and some lower body. The second bucket and two mitts for upper body. Use ALL cotton chenille mitts. I dislike car washes. Even so, I will use the best ones in the dead of winter.
· After washing, “flow” low pressure water over vehicle. Water will sheet off leaving less water to dry off. If possible pull car in garage or covered area. Dry/blot with microfiber drying towels. Be sure and dry wheels, tires and door jams.
· If needed, clean outside windows with glass cleaner such as Invisible Glass. If wiped dry with microfiber, most windows will not need it.
· Wheel dressing - I prefer low shine. Many brands all seem to last a week or so. I currently use original water based Armorall. Spray on; wait 10 minutes and wipe/dry/buff off

Other as needed

· I use a high quality sealant/ topper-wax or carnauba wax every 6 to 8 weeks. I currently like Duragloss 105 with their bonding agent or Mother's Reflection sealant.S-100 carnuaba wax is my favorite topper. I use plush microfiber towels to wipe off.
· Bird excrement must be removed as soon as possible. I currently keep a bottle of quick detailer, a microfiber cloth, in my trunk to remove the material as soon as I see it. Keeping your flat surface areas sealed or waxed will help.
· Clean/vacuum interior as needed. Use Aerospace 303 on dash and plastics as it has very low gloss on dash with high UV protection. Treat leather with Leatherique leather conditioner/cleaner once a year in summer. The summer heat helps its unique cleaning process.
· BMW Gummi Pflege/similar rubber protectant on all door, hood and trunk seals to prevent sticking and on some BMWs reduce door squeaks. No longer made. I still miss it.
· Aerospace 303 protectant with UV protection is good on exterior hard plastics as needed to keep color or low shine. Original water based Armorall is also used some. Spray on, set a few minutes and buff
· Clean engine with a cleaner such as Gunk about twice a year. Cover electrical components with foil to reduce the possibility of damage. Use minimum amount of water. Do not steam or pressure clean an engine.
· Use Clay Magic Blue bar or a similar product to remove embedded debris from paint. Hand polish or use a random orbit polisher (ROP) about once/twice a year to remove light scratches. Then seal or wax. Always use as "minimal" or weak polish possible that does the job. I currently have IZ red (weak) and green (stronger). Scratch-X also works. All work well for spot polishing. Clear coat paint is thin and scratch removal takes some off. Generally, if you feel a scratch with a fingernail, it cannot be completely removed.
· Use synthetic sealant on painted or clear-coated wheels. Wax will melt under heat generated by braking. Brake dust is corrosive and will damage painted/coated wheels if left on for an extended period. If brake dust is difficult to remove, use a wheel cleaner like Eagle A2Z. Follow instructions exactly. A clay bar can also be used to help remove embedded brake dust.
· Take car to Dent Wizard or similar paintless dent removal (PDR) shop when needed (let small ones collect) to remove dings. Fortunately, I get very few.

[525iZA]

I'm using Meguiars for just about everything...

I have:

3step Polish system... forget the name. (Too lazy to get out of bed to go look!:p )

Gold Class Foam dash & trim cleaner. Excellent, foam means you don't get any of the stuff on your windows! Also makes a bit of a shine but without being greasy.

Gold Class Leather erm... stuff... Works good but leaves some white residue in places. Think I may just be using it a bit too liberally. ;)

Scratch-X... magical stuff. Makes scratches disappear before your very eyes.

Also some cloths and spunges and stuff.

[scotbotmosh]

I'm using Meguiars for just about everything...

I have:

3step Polish system... forget the name. (Too lazy to get out of bed to go look!:p )

Gold Class Foam dash & trim cleaner. Excellent, foam means you don't get any of the stuff on your windows! Also makes a bit of a shine but without being greasy.

Gold Class Leather erm... stuff... Works good but leaves some white residue in places. Think I may just be using it a bit too liberally. ;)

Scratch-X... magical stuff. Makes scratches disappear before your very eyes.

Also some cloths and spunges and stuff..


Nice! Thank you..and if you happen to remember the name of the 3 step polish system the next time you get out of bed that would be great! Thanks again!

[Ross]

Meguires, Mothers, 3M all good paint care. I use Castrol Super Clean on tires, rims and really dirty stuff. BMW rims are painted so just detergent on them. If you have uncoated rims(heaven help you) use a "wadding polish" which is a chemical soaked cotton wad.
Avoid Armor-all and it's ilk for anything but tires. Lexol to clean leather and neatsfoot oil or Effax(available in tack shops) for keeping it soft. Mild detergent and water on the dash.

Ha, listen to me.... you guys ought to see my car it hasn't seen anything other than an automatic wash in two years, last one probably eight weeks ago.

[BMWDriver]

How about engine bay cleaning up ? How would that go ?

[Lee in Ottawa]

check out autopia.org for everything u need to know

[scotbotmosh]

Excellent great help from all of you. Looks like I will have an expensive trip to the autostore to stock up on all the must haves for cleaning my 525iT...Thanks!

[BMWDriver]

check out autopia.org for everything u need to know

Great link !

[repenttokyo]

Avoid ArmorAll products, or any products for that matter, that have silicone in them.

I use Meguiars #39 for any plastic, rubber or vinyl that's dirty. I follow up with #40 to treat it. I also use the #39 on my tires, which leaves them looking nice and black, but it's a flat look. Sometime I use the #40 on the tires, which gives them a new-tire look rather than looking really wet like ArmorAll, etc.

Anyway, #40 is great on the dash, trim-panels, and it's good for your rubber weather-stripping. It's really nice to use it on the outside rubbers around the doors and such, makes the rubber nice and clean.

Man, I flew through a bottle of both when I first got my 525i. Detailing a neglected car takes forever, but it's so worth it.

When it came to wax, I used to use a synthetic called 2001, IIRC, and it lasted for a LONG TIME. Then I thought, "Paps used to use carnauba on his Vettes; I'll use that." Man, forget Carnauba... I don't want to have to do panel at a time. I can do the whole car in synthetic and then come wipe it all off. I learned the hard way about carnauba and it's drying time. lol! The synthetic looked just as good as the carnauba I used and lasted longer. I guess this is one of those things like guys who use lead-filler, as opposed to just using plastic filler, "because it's better!" lol!

I'm actually in the middle of writing a book about car care for a client (i'm a writer), and I can tell you categorically that the shine a polymer wax gives you is not comparable to carnauba...the oils in carnauba give a deep look to the paint, whereas polymers sit directly on top of paint like a shell so they are incapable of giving this look. the advantage of polymer is that it lasts longer....that's it.

[AngryPopTart]

Avoid ArmorAll products, or any products for that matter, that have silicone in them.

I use Meguiars #39 for any plastic, rubber or vinyl that's dirty. I follow up with #40 to treat it. I also use the #39 on my tires, which leaves them looking nice and black, but it's a flat look. Sometime I use the #40 on the tires, which gives them a new-tire look rather than looking really wet like ArmorAll, etc.

Anyway, #40 is great on the dash, trim-panels, and it's good for your rubber weather-stripping. It's really nice to use it on the outside rubbers around the doors and such, makes the rubber nice and clean.

Man, I flew through a bottle of both when I first got my 525i. Detailing a neglected car takes forever, but it's so worth it.

When it came to wax, I used to use a synthetic called 2001, IIRC, and it lasted for a LONG TIME. Then I thought, "Paps used to use carnauba on his Vettes; I'll use that." Man, forget Carnauba... I don't want to have to do panel at a time. I can do the whole car in synthetic and then come wipe it all off. I learned the hard way about carnauba and it's drying time. lol! The synthetic looked just as good as the carnauba I used and lasted longer. I guess this is one of those things like guys who use lead-filler, as opposed to just using plastic filler, "because it's better!" lol!

[Russell]

Not being critical here. I hear thet ArmorAll original is currently either formulated WITHOUT silicon or is formulated with a water based silicone that is NOT harmful to plastics or rubber. I just want definitive answers.

BTW, I use ArmorAll original only on my tires. I use Aerospace 303 on the dash and other plastics. TIA


Avoid ArmorAll products, or any products for that matter, that have silicone in them.

I use Meguiars #39 for any plastic, rubber or vinyl that's dirty. I follow up with #40 to treat it. I also use the #39 on my tires, which leaves them looking nice and black, but it's a flat look. Sometime I use the #40 on the tires, which gives them a new-tire look rather than looking really wet like ArmorAll, etc.

Anyway, #40 is great on the dash, trim-panels, and it's good for your rubber weather-stripping. It's really nice to use it on the outside rubbers around the doors and such, makes the rubber nice and clean.

Man, I flew through a bottle of both when I first got my 525i. Detailing a neglected car takes forever, but it's so worth it.

When it came to wax, I used to use a synthetic called 2001, IIRC, and it lasted for a LONG TIME. Then I thought, "Paps used to use carnauba on his Vettes; I'll use that." Man, forget Carnauba... I don't want to have to do panel at a time. I can do the whole car in synthetic and then come wipe it all off. I learned the hard way about carnauba and it's drying time. lol! The synthetic looked just as good as the carnauba I used and lasted longer. I guess this is one of those things like guys who use lead-filler, as opposed to just using plastic filler, "because it's better!" lol!

[AngryPopTart]

Not being critical here. I hear thet ArmorAll original is currently either formulated WITHOUT silicon or is formulated with a water based silicone that is NOT harmful to plastics or rubber. I just want definitive answers.

BTW, I use ArmorAll original only on my tires. I use Aerospace 303 on the dash and other plastics. TIA

I've never considered what ArmorAll does to plastics or rubber. The reason I detest ArmorAll's silicon based products is because it's very difficult to remove from a cars exterior. It creates a nightmare of fish-eyes when I try to refinish a car that someone was dousing with ArmorAll, unknowingly getting the mist on the paint or putting way too much on the tires and then having it sling up on the paint while driving.

I use a commercial wax remover and degreaser before performing work on a given surface, and with some things, like panels soiled in ArmorAll, it just never seems to get rid of it. The only thing I have that will defenitely get rid of everything is an emulsifier product, but it takes more time to use since you have to wash it off with water and dry the panel, whereas with the degreaser you wipe on, wipe off; anything left just evaporates.

[AngryPopTart]

I'm actually in the middle of writing a book about car care for a client (i'm a writer), and I can tell you categorically that the shine a polymer wax gives you is not comparable to carnauba...the oils in carnauba give a deep look to the paint, whereas polymers sit directly on top of paint like a shell so they are incapable of giving this look. the advantage of polymer is that it lasts longer....that's it.

Well, I've used both synthetic and carnauba wax and they honestly looked the same to me. In each case I had cleaned, buffed and polished the entire exterior before applying any wax so maybe that had something to do with it.

Another product I really like is Meguiars #7 Mirror Glaze; it's a great last step if you're showing your car or delivering a customer car, but it burns off pretty fast in the sun.

[repenttokyo]

Well, I've used both synthetic and carnauba wax and they honestly looked the same to me. In each case I had cleaned, buffed and polished the entire exterior before applying any wax so maybe that had something to do with it.

Another product I really like is Meguiars #7 Mirror Glaze; it's a great last step if you're showing your car or delivering a customer car, but it burns off pretty fast in the sun.


they might look the same to you, but they won't look the same to a judge at a car show...they have different chemical compositions and they react differently with paint.

[AngryPopTart]

Hahaha! Well, it's probably because the car I did this on was white and near impossible to look at in the sun, anyway. :D

[CharlesAFerg]

...Or ask me.
*note sig*



Hahaha! Well, it's probably because the car I did this on was white and near impossible to look at in the sun, anyway. :D

Yea, well why do you think all that half-ass consumer detailing product sells so well? It's so easy, convenient, you name it...

Regardless...
First guy who wrote the essay pretty much hit the issue right on.

The two bucket method consists of one bucket of clean water, and one bucket of your soapy water. Once you finish scrubbing an area, you bunk and wring your mitt in the clean water before placing it back into the soapy water. This prevents dirt from getting in your clean soap bucket, which could end up between the mitt & your paint, causing marring or scratches.

While most OTC car washes are the same, look for one without, "wash and conditions" or "wash and wax" or with rainx. You apply all that later, and you will get months more duration than some stupid AIO(all in one) shampoo, the protection they offer is laughable at best. Besides, if you're polishing, you don't want that stuff on there anyways. Again, only use dawn if you're prepping for a polish, sometimes it takes two washes with the stuff before you're ready to do. (although, it usually works out if you clay, because you have to wash again anyways)

Wash from the top down, but some people wash the wheels before everything, and then replace the water and soap. to finish the rest. Regardless, for the rest of the car - top to bottom.

When drying, if you have wax already - take the hose attachment off, and glide the water stream across the paint so all of the water beads up together, and one large sheet slides off the paint, leaving barely even a drop left on the paint. The e34's curves make this exceptionally efficient.

Don't use scratch-x, I don't know why this is so popular besides the fact that most people don't have some type of polisher. You will find uneven results with this product, and it also conceals the marring it induces. Very unreliable.

I would recommend buying a porter cable 7424, it's great for the average joe and it's the best to start out with. Very light when it comes to power, but it does the job effectively. I am still able to detail entire cars with mine when I don't need my Rotary or "Flex". 6.5" pads are your friend, that is the best size for the PC7424, as well as the rotary IMO. LC CCS pads are your best bet as well.

You'll want to clay your car after you wash it, there should be easy directions on the packaging of the claybar - it's easy. Use QD as a lubricant, and remember to fold often. Also, wash after you clay.

This is extreme, but some cars require it...
If your car hasn't been taken care of, and there is plenty of embedded contaminants that don't come off even with claying, you should polish with a very mild pad & polish, as well as very low pressure on the surface. The pad will remove a few more embedded contaminants. Just make sure it's unnecessarily mild (such as a cleaner wax that contains no protectant, just detergents and cleaners EG P21s paint cleansing lotion), just so it creates enough friction to remove the contaminants. The paint is already swirled, it won't make it any worse. Just make sure you wash the pad, and don't use it for any more polishing during the session. I must caution you though, this should only be done once, and if your car has never been clayed or even waxed before. Only if it is heavily contaminated and it will be polished anyways. Again, this is not a maintenance step, I just find that many vehicles in need of recovery require this.

Halogen lights are your best friend.

I'm quite a compound/polish snob, as I only use Menzerna. It gives me a much more controlled environment and gives me more options, but it takes longer to go through my particular procedures. It's imported from Germany, silicone free, some of their products work on ceramic clearcoats(although doesn't apply to you) and contains no fillers. Fillers, which are in many compounds/polishes like Meguiars, are caolin clay particles within the polish that hide micromarring and holograms that result from polishing. So if you are unfamiliar with a particular polish, you may use a heavy compound, and fail to follow up with a lighter polish because you may think it looks good. Well, two or so weeks down the road, that clay washes off, you've got a vehicle covered in holograms and rotary swirls. Awesome. It hides blemishes as you work, so I cannot stand working with anything but Menzerna. I know 3m makes great professional, silicone free polishes and compounds as well. Check them out.

Really though, as a newcomer to detailing I wouldn't use anything stronger than a swirl remover from meguiars or 3m, you'll get results better than you expected, especially with a pc7424 and an orange 6.5" LC CCS pad.

Oh, and the #1 advice I can give you is...
Painters tape is also your best friend. Tape off all your trim, black as well as metal. Even though you're only using a PC7424 and not a Rotary, you'll still discolor and shave a bit of material off the trim.

BETWEEN POLISH AND WAXING.
I Capped all that like a jerk because there is one thing that I never see anybody mention. If you are applying carnauba, you can apply a true glaze prior(Menzerna Finishing Glaze, or 3m Imperial Hand Glaze) It will aid in application and looks. As stated earlier, can also be placed on top of the carnauba as well. Glaze will not protect the paint at all though, so don't rely on it for that purpose.
ANYWAYS
If you want to apply anything but a carnauba, you'll want a perfectly clean surface, so you'll want to perform a 50/50 IPA/H20 wipedown. Fill a spray bottle halfway with Isopropyl alcohol and halfway with Distilled water. Spray on and wipe off with a microfiber very gently. All polishes contain oils or some type of lubricant that they will leave behind, it is necessary, especially with sealants to remove them. A 50/50 IPA wipedown will do the trick, and the sealant will last much longer.

When it comes to LSPs(Last step product, sealants, waxes, etc...)
Quite honestly, I think synthetic/polymer sealants are the average joe's best friend. They last longer than carnauba, and depending on the product - are quite easy to apply. If I were you, I wouldn't worry about carnauba. I think does look better, but it really must be kept up if you're using it on a DD. It's so much more practical for the DIYer to use sealant and forget about it for 3-4 months, so I always recommend it to customers as maintenance between my visits.

If you do use sealant, you'll want to let it cure inside a nice warm, dry garage, and apply another coat at least the next morning or so. Many companies claim 6 months, but don't expect more the 3 or 4. This coming from an Oregonian, and even that is pretty good with our weather.

If you really want to get into it, buy Klasse acrylic sealant, Imported from Germany. It's the best product I've ever used, and can be layered nicely. The only downside is that it's so picky when you apply it.

Other than that, my favorite carnauba is P21s, similar to S100, except marketed towards auto enthusiasts as apposed to motorcycles. Same company, same product. Recently they have created a 100% carnauba which is even better.

Don't use QDs(quick detailers) if you've gone and done such a good job polishing. Just because there is QD on the surface between your microfiber and the dirty paint, doesn't mean you won't get swirls. I find that this is the #1 cause of mysterious swirls on paint.

On the dash - diluted simple green for light cleaning, magic erasers for shoe scuffs (be careful with these, there are abrasive) and of course, 303 aerospace all the way for protection and that no gloss, dark finish. It's not even greasy. Great stuff, and it really saves your vinyl from the sun as well.(can be found at boat supply stores)

stoners invisible glass for glass, and a dry waffle weave for a final glass wipedown.

Leather, well, leather masters & leatherique are my favorites - but if you want the best results, remove the seats and let them soak for a while under saran wrap, preferrably in a warm area. You'll be pleasantly surprised!

Anyways, autogeek.net is where I order most of my products. Enjoy.

Now that I'm done with that, somebody owes me a drivers side fender... Help!

[th3_blur]

Woah! Thanks to those of you who went the extra mile with this. Your work is much appreciated.

[AngryPopTart]

Whenever I aquire a different vehicle, and feel tempted to buff and wax it, I first clean the entire surface with dish soap and then clean it again with this: http://www.autobodytoolmart.com/pc-14262-969-8474-detro-clean-wax-grease-remover-1040.aspx