Stripped Idler Arm Adjuster?

[scotbotmosh]

So I went to put the v-belt back on ( the belt that goes over the alternator, and the power steering pump) and my idler arm ajustment bolt is stripped. Do I have to replace the whole tensioner or can just that bolt be replaced? And if the bolt can be replaced do I just take the whole idler arm out and unscrew the stripped out bolt somehow? I believe it is part #2 on this diagram

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=HD63&mospid=47404&btnr=11_1399&hg=11&fg=18

[Dave M]

So I went to put the v-belt back on ( the belt that goes over the alternator, and the power steering pump) and my idler arm ajustment bolt is stripped. Do I have to replace the whole tensioner or can just that bolt be replaced? And if the bolt can be replaced do I just take the whole idler arm out and unscrew the stripped out bolt somehow? I believe it is part #2 on this diagram

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=HD63&mospid=47404&btnr=11_1399&hg=11&fg=18

Hey scotbotmosh,

Have you confirmed that the bolt is actually stripped. I assume not, as it sounds like you haven't removed it yet to have a good look. My fear is that the aluminum pitman (part # 04 PITMAN ARM 1 09/1994 11281726773 $47.43) arm that helps holds the entire tensioner unit together has been stripped. Steel bolt in aluminum almost always wins :( . I am puzzled how it got stripped. Its not something that gets a lot of attention, or needs to be torqued on like MF.

Anyhow, yes you should be able to remove that hex bolt (7mm alen wrench), remove the pulley wheel and inspect. When you remove the bolt, inspect it for aluminum shavings from the pitman arm. If you see those, start looking around for a new pitman arm or, if you're like me, consider tapping out the arm to fit a larger metric bolt. Make sure the larger bolt will easily fit the pulley hole diameter or you may run into trouble. Larger bolt does not need to be an alen/hex bolt.

Good luck with it,

Dave

[scotbotmosh]

Actually the head of the bolt is stripped. The bolt that you stated should be a 7MM Hex on mine is actually a T45 bit, and that is stripped. When I insert my T45 bit and pull down to loosen the belt the bit just slips out, and I can see that it is chewed up as well. I was looking on realoem and it seems that there are a few different options for this idler arm, hydraulic, mechanical..etc. I might just have to take it out to figure out which one it is.

Thanks.

[Dave M]

Actually the head of the bolt is stripped. The bolt that you stated should be a 7MM Hex on mine is actually a T45 bit, and that is stripped. When I insert my T45 bit and pull down to loosen the belt the bit just slips out, and I can see that it is chewed up as well. I was looking on realoem and it seems that there are a few different options for this idler arm, hydraulic, mechanical..etc. I might just have to take it out to figure out which one it is.

Thanks.


Ahhh, this makes more sense now. You shouldn’t have to remove the entire unit to tell what it is, but it may be necessary to remove it to get at the stripped bolt. Below is a pic of the hydraulic version on my 90/10 build date 525. You should be able to tell what you have by look or feel. I’m guessing you have a similar hydraulic version based on the torx bolt you mentioned. The other one shows a larger hex bolt.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v11/dave_macisaac/Bimmer/Engine/Block_Swap/Engine_3007.jpg

If it’s the hydraulic one, it might be a bugger to get it off without removing the idler pulley. From realoem diagram, it seems that bolt #10, lies behind the pulley and it might be tight to get at. You should be able to easily remove the long hex bolt ( #11). You may also have to remove the bolt that holds the other idler pulley, which also serves as an alternator mount bolt. The alternator won’t go anywhere if you remove the bolt. Once the unit is out, you shouldn’t have too much trouble removing the stripped bolt. Just use your imagination :D
Unless I had a dealer around corner (closest one is a 7 hour drive), I would just find a suitable replacement bolt from a reputable fastener supplier and go with it.

Again, good luck with it,

Dave

[scotbotmosh]

I don't think mine is the hydralic version, mine has a build date of 95/10 Mine might be the mechanical one. I will take it out this weekend, luckily for me I have at least 2 dealers within 10 minutes of me...7 hours...ugh..that's brutal man. Great pic by the way. Also I found it intersting that our alternators have an air-induction system ( I remembered this by seeing your pic) Is this for cooling, or for some kind of extra charging?

[scotbotmosh]

I had the wrong one pictured in my first post. I found the part I need. The bolt that is stripped is the actually the head of the bolt that you would insert your 8mm hex or T45 torx bit into to relieve the pressure on the belt. I don't think only that bolt can be replaced. I think I have to do the whole thing...at 200K probably not a bad idea http://www.autohausaz.com/secure/PartImages/11281735899.jpg

[Dave M]

I had the wrong one pictured in my first post. I found the part I need. The bolt that is stripped is the actually the head of the bolt that you would insert your 8mm hex or T45 torx bit into to relieve the pressure on the belt. I don't think only that bolt can be replaced. I think I have to do the whole thing...at 200K probably not a bad idea http://www.autohausaz.com/secure/PartImages/11281735899.jpg

If you can manage to remove it without too much trouble, you may as well replace it.

Regarding dealers, I almost never use them. Just about everything I need get shipped from BMA. Saves a lot of $$

Dave

[scotbotmosh]

Fortunately I did not have to replace the Idler Arm. Although my torx bolt was stripped out and it prevented me from relieving the tension on the belt I was able to use the Hex-Nut that is molded into the front of the idler arm ( see circled portion of pic) That bit of German engineering saved my hide...genius...

[Dave M]

Fortunately I did not have to replace the Idler Arm. Although my torx bolt was stripped out and it prevented me from relieving the tension on the belt I was able to use the Hex-Nut that is molded into the front of the idler arm ( see circled portion of pic) That bit of German engineering saved my hide...genius...

Ya know, thats likely what its there for :D Never would have spotted that unless I was staring at it on my car, looking for a way out of a jam (sound familiar??).

Great job,

Dave

[scotbotmosh]

Tell me about it, I was pretty relieved to find that. I do believe that is what it is there for. I also think that the little circle cut out flanges will allow you to stick a bolt or something similiar in there while you have the belt removed to keep the pressure off, or to make sure all your belts are straight on the pully to keep from snapping the belt on your fingers....sometimes working on this car is a pain, but sometimes it is rather enlightening...