Rust Experts... a little question about rust...

[genphreak]

Hi all,

A quick Question about rust-

On a neighbour's trailer are a series of deck joins which consist of pieces of folded metal sheet butted to each other and spot welded, just like the sheet metal is on many cars.

Rainwater got ino the trailer and set into these seams for a few months. It is now dry after a week in the sun, and the leaky door is fixed so it won't get wet again.

How best should we treat the existing rust though? I imagine the rust is worst between the joins, but physical inspection is obviously impossible. I've heard of POR-15 but was considering painting an acidic rust converter solution into the joins first. What is the best method/treatment to use when you simply can't clean up all the rust as it is hiding in the joins?

I have used fish-oil with good results in the past, but this deck has a smooth painted finish- not an oily one :)

All words of wisom appreciated... cheers in advance, Nick

[Adnan]

Hi all,

A quick Question about rust-

On a neighbour's trailer are a series of deck joins which consist of pieces of folded metal sheet butted to each other and spot welded, just like the sheet metal is on many cars.

Rainwater got ino the trailer and set into these seams for a few months. It is now dry after a week in the sun, and the leaky door is fixed so it won't get wet again.

How best should we treat the existing rust though? I imagine the rust is worst between the joins, but physical inspection is obviously impossible. I've heard of POR-15 but was considering painting an acidic rust converter solution into the joins first. What is the best method/treatment to use when you simply can't clean up all the rust as it is hiding in the joins?

I have used fish-oil with good results in the past, but this deck has a smooth painted finish- not an oily one :)

All words of wisom appreciated... cheers in advance, Nick

Hi,

This is a tough one, indeed. Brush off as much visible rust as you can, which I'm sure you've done. The problem with rust converters is that you often need to flush them out, as leaving them in causes a set of problems too.

Your idea of using POR-15 is a good one, but that won't get into the seams. Check out Eastwood to see if they have something that might penetrate better. Otherwise, POR-15 what you can get to and then inject something like Waxoyl to at least slow down the rate of corrosion significantly. It sounds like you've used fish oil in a similar capacity but Waxoyl is, well, waxy and tends to last much longer. It's de rigueur for British car frames and has been proven over time.

Unfortunately, once rust sets in, nothing fully cures it. You're on the right track, though.

Regards,
Adnan

[genphreak]

Waxoyl? Never heard of it, sounds like a most valuable suggestion... :) I'm in Oz, so I've no idea about vendors- will go looking. The idea of leaving any acid in the joins scares me... most of these products' packs say 'wipe off any excess' or 'white crystals that form on top', etc. -and they say wipe away with a damp rag, neutralizing what is left (of 'the product') upon the surface. I am sure there is a reason for this :}

Do Eastwood have a website by any chance? Thanks for the idea.

[shogun]

http://www.eastwoodco.com/

[AngryPopTart]

At our shop, when we are patching panels in cars, we use a product called Rust Mort made by SEM.

SEM Paints 69508 - Rust Mort

Should find lots of info on google. Have no idea if it's available in aussie mega land.