View Full Version : Suspension Conversion Kit
elbasha
06-21-2008, 05:01 PM
Hello,
Does anyone know where I can purchase the conversion kit for my back suspension at a decent price? The ones in the back are not getting any air in and are not working properly, I just want to remove them and get a set of suspension for the whole car. Through, I need the conversion kit first.
bubba966
06-21-2008, 05:09 PM
Give Dinan a call. They've got the SLS delete for the M5's, and I don't think the SLS system is any different between the two. http://www.dinancars.com/
bubba966
06-21-2008, 05:12 PM
Ask them if this kit for the M5 would work for your Touring.
http://www.dinancars.com/store/Stage-1-Suspension-Eliminate-HLL-8-90-93-Bilstein-c-365-p-3402.html
Julien
06-21-2008, 08:00 PM
or just buy the cheaper kit from bavauto.com (399)...
elbasha
06-21-2008, 09:12 PM
I found bavauto.com for $399, but I have seen others for cheaper price thats why I was wondering if anyone knows anything about it
elbasha
07-03-2008, 08:00 PM
bump - just wanted to double check for the last time to see if anyone has for sale or knows anyone who has it for a decent price.
Kalevera
07-06-2008, 12:47 PM
I would fix the SLS instead of removing it.
elbasha
07-06-2008, 01:03 PM
Kalevera, why would you do that? If you fix it you will spend as much money as you would for replacing the whole thing, right?
Tiger
07-06-2008, 02:02 PM
Ditto... fix the SLS... Most of the time, only the spheres needs to be changed.. and that is not too much money.
elbasha
07-06-2008, 02:48 PM
Mechanic said no air is coming in which would cost a lot of money to fix, any ideas?
bad_manners_god
07-06-2008, 03:01 PM
Just delete it, it's a very expensive system to maintain, I deleted it myself. The only thing you have to buy is new shocks.
Apart from that, just connect the sending and return lines from the power steering pump. And jump the terminals...read below:
Let me de-mystify the SLS sensor for you. Despite all the info to the contrary, it's just a switch. In typical German fashion, a fancy switch with non-contact sensing (so it has an easy-to-define "on" band, and won't wear out under constant high-frequency suspension motions), but it's still just a switch output (technically an open-collector transistor switch output.)
The operation is very simple: Centered, the output is grounded. Too high or
too low (spec'd as suspension height +/- 10mm) and the output is open, pulled "high" (near 12V) by the instrument cluster input. You can easily check this circuit and sensor operation as follows:
1. The sensor passes through a 21-pin connector next to the battery under the rear seat. This is an easy place to probe. Looking at the back of the
connector where the wires coming out of the rear floor enter the connector, the 3 wires in the center row of pins on one end are the sensor wires, pins 12, 13, and 14. Pin 12 (three from the end of the middle row) is a black wire with brown stripe and yellow dashes -- this is the sensor output. The next pin (13) is the ground, and the end wire in the middle row (14) is +12V power. You can easily probe with a DVM in the back of the connector.
2. Turn the key to the first "on" position. You should see 11-12V on pin 12
with respect to ground, and 0V on pin 14.
3. Turn key one more click to the "run" position.
STOCK: With car at nominal height, you should now see ~0V on pin 12 (~.35V) and +12V on pin 14.
LOWERED: If your car is lowered very much you will see voltage on pin 12 still. -A/E
4. STOCK: Jack up the right rear of the car, and at some large height, the output on pin 12 will rise suddenly to near 12V again.
LOWERED: Jack up the differential carefully by an inch or two to simulate "stock" ride height, you will notice that the voltage on 12 has now dropped to ~0V. -A/E
5. STOCK: Lowering the jack should bring pin 12 back "low". If you load the car enough, you can trip the sensor to "high" state again. You can also undo the one 10mm bolt holding the sensor on (leave linkage attached) and turn the sensor to see the above readings.
LOWERED: Lowering the jack will cause pin 12 to go back high again. -A/E
6. Cars with no SLS simply ground pin 12 to defeat the warning. You can do the same thing if you want to ignore the message if your sensor is bad and you don't want to replace it, or if your car is lowered with an SLS delete kit. You can simply place a jumper wire between the wires leading to pins 12 and 13.
-A/E
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