Sway Bar Link - Front - Symptoms

[angusbn]

What would be the symptoms of having a bad left front sway bar link?

[whiskychaser]

What would be the symptoms of having a bad left front sway bar link?

The bodywork may dip a tad more to that side on a corner or you may get the odd clunk. You can drop and replace the torsion bar easily and safely when the wheels are on so I dont see it making a hell of a difference. Replacement is a piece of cake and dead cheap. If you suspect they are shot or the boots are gone replace them. Will take you all of an hour to do both including cigarette and coffee breaks:)

[repenttokyo]

a metallic clinking sound over rough roads or bumps.

replacement is not as easy as everyone makes it out to be. I had a ton of trouble getting mine off, there is not a lot of room to get a good grip on things without an offset box wrench, and even then, corrosion can make things difficult.

[e34.535i.sport]

Yep metallic noise over rough surfaces... I've got mine back I think I killed the rubber boots when doing the shocks. Piece of cake to change... Check the nuts a couple of weeks afer doing them to make sure they're still correctly torqued - mine came loose and started to clunk.

[h2oyo]

What would be the symptoms of having a bad left front sway bar link?

I just replaced mine on my 95 540i. It is really easy to do. If they spin there are two flats on them to put a spanner on to keep the nut from spinning. I don't remember for sure but I believe it was a 15mm. I used air tools also. It took about 15 minutes a side. It took longer just to get the car up in the air high enough for me to get under it easy.
Johan:)

[repenttokyo]

everything is easy with air tools.

[angusbn]

I was defeated today trying to replace the left sway bar link. I just couldn't get enough torque on the bottom 16mm nut - too badly rusted. I had pulled the wheel off for better access. The top nut requires a 16mm offset box wrench but I couldn't get it off either - rusted too.

Off to the mechanic shop it will go. Certainly not an easy job.

[e34.535i.sport]

I was defeated today trying to replace the left sway bar link. I just couldn't get enough torque on the bottom 16mm nut - too badly rusted. I had pulled the wheel off for better access. The top nut requires a 16mm offset box wrench but I couldn't get it off either - rusted too.

Off to the mechanic shop it will go. Certainly not an easy job.

Don't give up! I went at a VERY stubborn rear subframe bush for a week (literally) and I got there in the end... I learnt a lot I can tell you.

If the nuts are really gone you still have options... I've had a similar thing happen to me - I got a hacksaw and sawed throught the nut and bolt... Or you could get a good drill and just drill through it.

There's always a way out of a tricky situation... :D

[whiskychaser]

There's always a way out of a tricky situation... :D
My way out: jam your open-ended spanner to stop the lot turning and use a socket and breaker bar on the nut. The nut should either turn or it will break. If that doesnt work use a use a splitter or a hacksaw.

[Mordan]

I was defeated today trying to replace the left sway bar link. I just couldn't get enough torque on the bottom 16mm nut - too badly rusted. I had pulled the wheel off for better access. The top nut requires a 16mm offset box wrench but I couldn't get it off either - rusted too.

Off to the mechanic shop it will go. Certainly not an easy job.

spray WD40 and there is no way you cannot remove it. also beware, I just removed the links a few days ago and for one nut, you had to use a 2nd spanner to block the link's top bolt

PS: I'm stuck on the bushings! hopefully I have another car ;)

[ahlem]

Can I inquire on the source of the replacements?
I have a Racing Dynamics sway bar that needs the ends replaced and they are well over $100 for the two. Thanks.

[angusbn]

This is the sway bar link for my 89 535i (08/88 production). Ordered it off Auto Parts Onlince Canada. $38 Canadian.

[angusbn]

In retrospect I don't there is a issue with the sway bar link. Looked fine and no noticeable "shimmy or give" when I grabbed it so the "clunking" noise must be something else. I really didn't have a look under the car - I had only taken off the front left tire.

What else might cause this noise?

[Tiger]

The problem with this question is you never described what your problem is.

[angusbn]

A "clunking" noise on the left side when I hit a bump at lower speeds. Initially thought it was the sway bar link but it looks fine after all. Perhaps a ball joint? Thoughts?

[Tiger]

You can't just 'feel' the ball joints. The question you need to ask is whether you ever change it before? What have you changed?

Possible reasons for clunks:
Sway bar links
lower control arm
upper control arm
steering tie rods


Sway bar links when they are bad amplify the bang noise when you hit a pothole... sounds like you will lose your tooth fillings when you hit a good size.

[angusbn]

Thanks Tiger for all your assistance. I've only changed the tie road ends (ball joints) on the right side. Both sway bar links look good. I haven't yet checked any other steering or suspension parts on the left side. Will do so once the weather is nicer since I don't have access to a garage.

[e34.535i.sport]

Thanks Tiger for all your assistance. I've only changed the tie road ends (ball joints) on the right side. Both sway bar links look good. I haven't yet checked any other steering or suspension parts on the left side. Will do so once the weather is nicer since I don't have access to a garage.

Jacking up the car on one side and pulling on the sway link won't reveal anything as it's under a lot of pressure in that position...

It is likely to be sway link if it's lots of low clunks over rough surfaces, more likely to be control/thrust arm balljoints if it's a clunk over a speed bump/on braking/over a pothole.

There's a very simple test to check if any of the control/thrust arm balljoints are toast... Simply jack up the car, leaving the wheel on, and then try to wiggle the wheel with your hands at 9o'clock and 3o'clock. If there is a lot of play (like there was on mine!) then you will actually see the balljoint giving if you stick your head underneath and get someone to wiggle the wheel for you.

In total honesty I've done a front end rebuild suspension wise and still have a very low clunk noise on the passenger side when I hit a particularly harsh bump even at low speeds. I'm down to the last possibility which is something on the centre tie rod... Which I've ordered and dying to get it on! :D Sometimes these things are very difficult to pin down so the more information you can collect about when it happens/rough area it's coming from the better! Good luck!

[angusbn]

Thanks for the tip. I'll do so this weekend and report back. Will get the car up on ramps too if it's nice outside and have a real close look-see.

[paanta]

Jacking up the car on one side and pulling on the sway link won't reveal anything as it's under a lot of pressure in that position...

It is likely to be sway link if it's lots of low clunks over rough surfaces, more likely to be control/thrust arm balljoints if it's a clunk over a speed bump/on braking/over a pothole.


+1. It's easy to spot with the car on ramps, though. You'll be able to wiggle it enough to reveal a bad BJ. I replaced my recently and didn't torque the nut quite enough and it was rattling. Took me a while to realize "oh, yeah, jacking up one side loads the sway link, dummy."

If you need 'em, I've got a pair of brand new Meyle ones sitting in my garage right now, I'd sell for whatever they're worth.

[ahlem]

Are you talking about ball joints or tie rod ends?

[e34.535i.sport]

... ... a bad BJ.

Never had one of those. ;)

[angusbn]

A bad BJ is better than no BJ at all.

[632 Regal]

not if they use teeth.

A bad BJ is better than no BJ at all.