Kidney grill - metal or plastic?

[Jon K]

Hey all - trying to decide on something. Are the kidney inserts (the chrome part not the slats) made of plastic or metal?

[bubba966]

Plastic.

[attack eagle]

yep. very heavy copper and nickel coat on them.

[Ferret]

Yeah deffo plastic, the tabs on them are prone to snapping

[nirvana19]

Yep, plastic, there are huge cracks on the sides of mine from when something backed into my grille. They're still pretty tough, though.

[Jon K]

Damnit - alrighty thanks boys

[Qube]

Plastic. The chroming process is incredibly durable (on nickel). I tried to 'dechrome' the grill on the 135 and it took some effort. Acid all the way only.

[Jon K]

Yah - I wanted to powder coat them but that won't work :( thx guys

[Booster]

Microfine wetsand 1000 grit and trim black. Or do like I did and tint some clear with blk. and spray till happy.:D

[Jon K]

Just not a fan of painting as it will chip in < 100 miles :(

[Booster]

Won't chip any faster than PC if shot with Eurothane ...traveling at warp speed ,that is !:p

In the front of the E34...anything...including chrome can take a ding. Just look at what sand does to our grilles after time. Its all the same up front...is what I'm getting at. We've gotta pull the grilles anyways to do a proper job...whether PC or conventional painting...right ?

[Jon K]

Yeah but a temperature melted polyester or urethane powder is worlds more rugged than any sprayed finish. Basically, if you were able to powder the kidneys you'd never have to do it again for the rest of the time you own the car.

[Booster]

Yeah but a temperature melted polyester or urethane powder is worlds more rugged than any sprayed finish. Basically, if you were able to powder the kidneys you'd never have to do it again for the rest of the time you own the car.

I realize you really feel this way Jon...but I've been having my cars suspensions,crossmembers,engine parts etc. PC'd for well over a decade or more and even with the newer better formulas.....it'll chip bro'.

But to its behalf......it is much less likely too than non baked finishes,I'll agree....but its not granite hard. Its just plastic hard.

Maybe your taking abit more time and care when you do your parts than I get here locally...who knows ? I do the sandblasting myself as well as any degassing prep prior.
Cheers,Vinny

[Jon K]

You shouldn't be using sand ;) When it shatters on the surface it deposits dust in the surface. You gotta use glass bead and the part should be clean enough that it doesn't need to be degreased - most degreasers leave behind residue that often makes the surface worse than prior to degreasing.

My method is:

1) If previously powder coated or painted use aircraft remover
2) bead blast (not sand)
3) Blow off part
4) Out gas at 550F for an hour (boils oils out of the part). You need to be sure to coat the part (especially if aluminum) within an hour of out gassing. The temperature of 550F is important - you want to be a little over 100F of your initial cure temp. Reason being, you want to boil any grease/oil in the part that would be subject to boiling at your cure temperature, and then some. If you're using a high temp powder or ceramic, then your out gas temperature might even be 1000F. I've out gassed parts for ceramic coating @ 1100F before - its hot.
5) Coat @ 420F until it flows out (looks wet) then cut the heat to 400F cure for 20 mins after it flows out.

If you're prepping the work they have to coat the part within 24 hrs of blasting or any flash oxidization almost makes it not worth while to coat. I know, you don't see anything, but its there and it affects the durability big time!

We've had great great luck with Eastwood and Caswell powders - even a lot of refinishing companies will powder coat the body panels as a primer ;)

[Booster]

You shouldn't be using sand ;) When it shatters on the surface it deposits dust in the surface. You gotta use glass bead and the part should be clean enough that it doesn't need to be degreased - most degreasers leave behind residue that often makes the surface worse than prior to degreasing.

My method is:

1) If previously powder coated or painted use aircraft remover
2) bead blast (not sand)
3) Blow off part
4) Out gas at 550F for an hour (boils oils out of the part). You need to be sure to coat the part (especially if aluminum) within an hour of out gassing. The temperature of 550F is important - you want to be a little over 100F of your initial cure temp. Reason being, you want to boil any grease/oil in the part that would be subject to boiling at your cure temperature, and then some. If you're using a high temp powder or ceramic, then your out gas temperature might even be 1000F. I've out gassed parts for ceramic coating @ 1100F before - its hot.
5) Coat @ 420F until it flows out (looks wet) then cut the heat to 400F cure for 20 mins after it flows out.

If you're prepping the work they have to coat the part within 24 hrs of blasting or any flash oxidization almost makes it not worth while to coat. I know, you don't see anything, but its there and it affects the durability big time!

We've had great great luck with Eastwood and Caswell powders - even a lot of refinishing companies will powder coat the body panels as a primer ;)


I don't use sand. I use Quartz media. Sometimes I'll use Black beauty ( lava rock) on crossmembers and such that are crusty.
Good methods though for the outgassing. Thanks.