m50 cylinder head tools

[Mendozart]

Anyone want to lend/rent the flywheel lock pin and camshaft locking tools? I want to get my cylinder head pulled ASAP and wouldn't mind saving a little cash. I did find the tools for $100, but if someone is willing, I would be indebted.

[Blitzkrieg Bob]

Anyone want to lend/rent the flywheel lock pin and camshaft locking tools? I want to get my cylinder head pulled ASAP and wouldn't mind saving a little cash. I did find the tools for $100, but if someone is willing, I would be indebted.

You can get away without them.

put it on TDC and don't move a thing

But you'll still need the head bolt tool to remove the head with the cam & trays on. @ $20.00

[632 Regal]

Huh?



But you'll still need the head bolt tool

[Blitzkrieg Bob]

Huh?


That long ass E torx made for the M50 head...it was made to sneak past the cam trays so you don't need to pull the cams.

http://www.zdmak.com/wbstore/main.asp?action=PROD&PROD=MK-5011-E12&CTMP=1

[Scott C]

I used standard autozone or parts america tools - just ground the outside down a bit to fit in the tight areas.

And you don't need the 150$ cam locking device - you only need a straightedge - i wish I had taken a picture when i was doing mine.

Scott

[yaofeng]

Use a 1/4" diameter punch to lock the flywheel. No need to align the camshaft at No. 1 piston TDC. You eyes are sufficient. With Vanos the intake cam is approximate anyway because it is variable. No need to clamp the camshaft either. Loosen the cam bearings one at a time gradually and strategically to avoid bending the cam shaft.

[whiskychaser]

Loosen the cam bearings one at a time gradually and strategically to avoid bending the cam shaft.

If you are going this far, you may find this useful:
http://www.pelicanparts.com/BMW/techarticles/E36-Camshaft-Removal/E36-camshaft-removal.htm

[Mendozart]

Thanks for all the info guys.

[Dave M]

Folks have already provided some good info, but I like to hear myself type :D

1) Flywheel lock - not necessary, just keep cylinder 1 at TDC and watch the marks on the harmonic and timing case, its that simple.

2) Camshaft lock - not necessary, just allign the two cylinder 1 cam lobes inward like this
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v11/dave_macisaac/Bimmer/Engine/Block_Swap/Engine_3004.jpg

and use a straight edge on the back of the cams (square bits).

3) Secondary chain tensioner = two safety pins, no joke.

4) As someone already stated, just grind down the torx bit for the timing cover arae of the cylinder head and you're good to go.

ZERO extra tools.

Good luck with it,

Dave

[Mendozart]

Thanks Dave. I've read the procedure over quite a bit, and I feel fairly confident now. I do appreciate all the info though guys.

[Scott C]

I found a picture of the tool installed!
Now you can see why a straightedge will do the job.

Reminder - be darn careful of the plastic chain guide when pulling the head - it weighs a ton and can easily damage the guide when pulling.

[Scott C]

Chain guide picture - couldnt get it on the other post.

[whiskychaser]

Anyone who needs the cam/crank locking kit in the UK plse let me know. I have two sets. One BNIB. I'd suggest you use one. From the pics I dont think Dave M did - he got blood all over his cams:(

[Mendozart]

I went ahead and bought the long torx tool. I have a 1/4" punch, & some safety pins. The local independent shop said he would rent me the camshaft locking tool for $25. I went ahead and got a head start tonight, drained the coolant and pulled off a few things before it got dark. The Bentley says to toss the exhaust manifold nuts. Do these come in the headgasket kit? What all comes in the kit? Should have the head off on Saturday.

[Dave M]

I went ahead and bought the long torx tool. I have a 1/4" punch, & some safety pins. The local independent shop said he would rent me the camshaft locking tool for $25. I went ahead and got a head start tonight, drained the coolant and pulled off a few things before it got dark. The Bentley says to toss the exhaust manifold nuts. Do these come in the headgasket kit? What all comes in the kit? Should have the head off on Saturday.

Yes pull the manifold. The nuts are non-reusable (crush fitting) and I do NOT recall them coming in the set (Victor Reinz). I seem to remember ordering them (x6) from the dealer. According to the websites I stole the following pics from, they are Victor Reinz sets. These copper nuts are not shown in either photo.

http://67.129.153.73/CGv2Production/Pictures/BMW%20J-Pegs/11121730253.jpg?width=300&height=300&cookieID=2GV17I5682GV17INU3&clientid=highspeedautoparts

http://12.153.160.115/images/catalog/full/11121730253.jpg?cookieID=2GV17PK5S2GV17PV8N&clientid=bmaparts

Dave

[Scott C]

Don't forget, the head bolts are torque to yield - you NEED new ones ;)
I reused the copper nuts on the exhaust manifold - not a big risk there in my opinion.

Scott

[genphreak]

The Cu nuts can be got from any dealer cheaply. Anyone know what size the e23 745i manifold uses? I finally got hold of one and they're all missing... they look like M8

[Mendozart]

Well, I'm halfway there. Got the head pulled and am dropping it off at the machine shop Monday. I just hope it's not cracked.

[Mendozart]

So what's the best way to clean up the block surface and pistons? You can see on cylinder #2 where it was getting some water in the cylinder and steam cleaning the edges of the piston.

[whiskychaser]

So what's the best way to clean up the block surface and pistons? You can see on cylinder #2 where it was getting some water in the cylinder and steam cleaning the edges of the piston.

Never used it but you could always try a gasket/carbon remover like this:
http://www.grampianfasteners.com/Index.aspx?Category=11024244&Level=2
One thing I def do is block up all the oil/water galleries to stop any rubbish getting in. I also put a bit of grease in the the bores and turn the engine over by hand so it forms a ring at the top. That collects any bits of carbon that might damage the bores and is easily wiped off afterwards

[Mendozart]

Well, I got news today that the head has a hairline fracture. I'm having them fix it, which will give me time to go through all the hoses and any other needed items.

[Dave M]

Well, I got news today that the head has a hairline fracture. I'm having them fix it, which will give me time to go through all the hoses and any other needed items.

Where is it fractured (between exhaust port and coolant passage?) If they've done them before with success, I'd consider it, but its not something I'd leave with your 'average' machine shop.

my 2 cents,

Dave

[Mendozart]

Where is it fractured (between exhaust port and coolant passage?) If they've done them before with success, I'd consider it, but its not something I'd leave with your 'average' machine shop.

my 2 cents,

Dave
They said they've done quite a few of these successfully. The guys at Mesa Performance send alot of customers their way.

[632 Regal]

Dave, great pictures, once this is done I will archive... unless I forget

pm me

[Mendozart]

Hey guys,
Should I replace this tensioner? It's #7 on the diagram.
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=HD63&mospid=47404&btnr=11_1286&hg=11&fg=25

[yaofeng]

I am ambivalent. You can do it anytime by opening up the valve cover.

[Jon K]

I'd replace it now and be done with it!

[Mendozart]

Well, I finally got the car put back together and all is good, except I might have to replace my radiator. It seems to be slightly leaking at the tank, I hate that frickin plastic tank. Again, thanks to everyone who contributed to this thread. It was very informative and I felt I was definitely more prepared because of it.

[Dave M]

Well done,

Some folks here have had success fixing leaks at the tank (if its the rubber O-rings that fail. Do a search for it. Too bad you have to drain the system again :(

Dave

[Mendozart]

Well done,

Some folks here have had success fixing leaks at the tank (if its the rubber O-rings that fail. Do a search for it. Too bad you have to drain the system again :(

Dave
Well, luckily I just filled the system up with distilled water, as I was going to drain (flush), the system anyway.:D

[Ferret]

Well, luckily I just filled the system up with distilled water, as I was going to drain (flush), the system anyway.:D

I had one of these go pop recently on a friends car stranding him...

Fixed it by removing the top panel above the white plastic chunk of the rad bottle, levering the white plastic upwards till it popped out (carefully!) Then smeared epoxy resin around the o-rings and shoved it all back together again. Job sorted :)

[Mendozart]

I had one of these go pop recently on a friends car stranding him...

Fixed it by removing the top panel above the white plastic chunk of the rad bottle, levering the white plastic upwards till it popped out (carefully!) Then smeared epoxy resin around the o-rings and shoved it all back together again. Job sorted :)

I might make an attempt at this fix, as the radiator is only 3 years old.

[Mendozart]

I might make an attempt at this fix, as the radiator is only 3 years old.

It looks like it's leaking right where the o-ring is on this pic, part#3. So it looks like I might be able to fix.:D

[Dave M]

It looks like it's leaking right where the o-ring is on this pic, part#3. So it looks like I might be able to fix.:D

Yep, thats the bad boy that often leaks.

[Mendozart]

Yep, thats the bad boy that often leaks.
Replaced the o-ring today, no leaky, fix done, yeah!:D

[Dave M]

Replaced the o-ring today, no leaky, fix done, yeah!:D


Booya! saved yourself some beer money :D

[Mendozart]

One last parting shot. Did a little engine detailing. Also, I had painted that hideous gold valve cover with some black paint, looks much better.

[Dave M]

Forgot they were gold. I did mine in silver, but I think I like your black more.

next tme.....

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v11/dave_macisaac/Bimmer/Engine/Apr182006005.jpg

Dave