Looking to buy first BMW - 1989 535i

[Unregistered]

Hello all,

I live in Australia, and am considering the purchase of a 1989 535i, 5 speed manual. The car has travelled 264,000km (165,000 miles) and has plenty of service stamps in the books. When I took it for a test drive, there seems to be plenty of power over 4,000 rpm, and the motor pulls strongly and smoothly right to redline. No smoke is evident from the exhaust under load, and the inside of the exhaust tips are a nice even dark grey colour.

The car idles fairly smoothly, but has a ticking sound that is audible even with the hood closed. Is this the valve clearances, or perhaps the timing chain has stretched (or do they have a timing belt?)

The bodywork and interior is all in good order, and all electrics work.

Are these a good buy? Looking for a reliable involving car to drive, which can also transport my wife and 2 young children in comfort and safety. I have an Audi A4 at present, but this is just a bit small to take another adult with our 4 person family.

Any advice? Anyone else here live in Adelaide, South Australia and can suggest a good specialist mechanic to do a pre purchase inspection?

Cheers,
Nathan

[shortbuss2336]

definitely a good buy, make sure to get it checked out, ie compression test, which will tell the story of the car. Having owned an A4 and a e34 the e34 is waaaaay roomier, comfortable, and definitely better built. If i hadn't gotten hit I would have driven the e34 at least another 100K strong.

[George M]

yup a great car...but at that age...likely will need a fair amount of work as in suspension, drive shaft...perhaps a head gasket etc. Have the compression checked as mentioned by a reputable shop. Review Bruno's site for a what-to-look-for list.
If you can turn a wrench, a good buy. The big six is close to bullet proof and easy to rebuild if something goes amuck. Downside of the car is it is quite heavy which makes it relatively safe but fuel economy isn't very good...not too bad on the highway but poor in the city. Not sure I would consider one as a result today if you do a fair amount of driving due to $2/gal gas prices which will only climb in the future.
HTH,
George

[bimmerd00d]

the tapping you hear is just the valves, VERY common on the M30 motor which the 535 has. Even when the valves are adjusted correctly, they will still tap a little bit. I would definitely have them adjusted as soon as possible, so you can be sure that it gets done. Welcome to the board and you wont be disappointed with the car. Do you have any pictures you can post?

[nate71c]

... Welcome to the board and you wont be disappointed with the car. Do you have any pictures you can post?

Hi again,
I've gone and registered, so the nasty "Unregistered" won't haunt my posts!
I have some pics, hopefully I can work out how to attach them... :(

OK, will post some exterior shots right after this post.

[nate71c]

Sorry about that, didn't realise I could only post 5 pics at a time. Save the best till last, right?

Not too sure about the bright red paint, but everybody has a silver Bimmer!

The license plates are an interesting touch. I think they are probably overkill, and will probably go to something a bit lower key if I buy the car.

Oh, and by the way, you think US$2 per gallon is doing it tough? Down here in Australia, we are paying AUS$1.05 per LITRE, which makes it about US$2.60 per gallon at today's exchange rate. Still, the first half of my daily commute is clear freeway...

Nathan

[BigD]

Wow Mtech seats, and E28 M5 steering wheel. Bonus points!

Engine looks pretty neglected though. I'd have a mechanic check it out...

[nate71c]

I have test driven 2 other E34 535i's, but neither of them had leather or the sporty seats this one has. These seats are so adjustable, and even the under thigh squab can be extended around an inch and a half (I have long legs).

Am I right that this steering wheel cannot contain an airbag? I would assume the steering wheel was standard fitment along with the seats. Is this possible?

Will definitely have a mechanical inspection performed.

[nate71c]

...Review Bruno's site for a what-to-look-for list.
George

Who is Bruno, and what is the URL to his site? Sounds like a good pre purchase inspection inspection :)

Cheers,
Nathan

[BigD]

Yep, that's an upgrade the owner did, those were not an option on the 535, only standard on the M5.

The steering wheel does not have an airbag but it's possible to retrofit one. The wiring is already there, you need the wheel and the control module (there should be an orange rubber plug hanging on the passenger side in the engine compartment, around the wheel well, that is supposed to connect to the air bag controller).

[BigD]

http://www.bmwe34.net

[netmgr]

I wouldnt take it for granted the wiring for the airbag is there and retro fitting is a nightmare, replacing stering colombs etc

also you have a fingerprint on your lense!

and id ditch that tow bar if you get it! you should be able to buy a cover for the hole it leaves in your bumper

not sure i like the colour but if you like it....

darren

[nate71c]

I did notice the smudge on the lens, AFTER I got home and uploaded the pics! D'oh!

The towbar is ugly but functional, I do sometimes have to pull a small trailer to the tip etc.

[Phil Sanderson]

It looks pretty reasonable for 1989. It looks to be a basic manual trans 535i Executive with the options of Sports seats, Mtech 1 steering wheel and possibly towing pack. Sunroof, cruise control and rear window blind were part of the Executive pack in 1989. That car will Detail up great and before you ask, that yellow crap on the engine is a coating that BMW puts on the engine as protectorant for the sea transport. The Dealer is supposed to remove it at pre-devilery but never does and is now very difficult to remove.

The car has average k's for being 15 years old and I'm sure you will love it. Manual E34's in Australia are pretty rare. How much are you paying for it? By the way I'm from Sydney.

Phil
'89 525i - mine
'93 540i - hers

[SamB]

I like the colour :)

Also, just be aware that when I took over my 535 it had a audiable tick with the bonnet closed, turned out to be a worn cam.... one brand new head later it runs perfect!

For the record BMW New Zealand (I don't know if it applies world wide??) sell new (or remanufactured) exchange heads (complete - cam, rockers, valves, head gasket, head bolts etc) for around NZ$2K (Approx US$1200) If you need to replace the cam then seriously consider doing it this way.

[nate71c]

Manual E34's in Australia are pretty rare. How much are you paying for it? By the way I'm from Sydney.
Phil
'89 525i - mine
'93 540i - hers

The seller is asking AUS$11,500 (US$8000)
I know he is flexible on the price for cash. However, if he's reading this thread then perhaps that will change :D

There is also some noise from the diff. Is this simply due to mileage, or should I be worried about big dollar repairs?If the diff needs a rebuild, would people recommend I exchange it for a lower ratio to assist with acceleration?

[Unregistered]

The seller is asking AUS$11,500 (US$8000)
I know he is flexible on the price for cash. However, if he's reading this thread then perhaps that will change :D

Good grief, they're expensive over there. I recently bought a 535i of similar mileage with solid, if not immaculate bodywork for £1300. What's that? $2000 US?

There is also some noise from the diff. Is this simply due to mileage, or should I be worried about big dollar repairs?If the diff needs a rebuild, would people recommend I exchange it for a lower ratio to assist with acceleration?

[netmgr]

$8000 US OMG

over in sunny England a car like that would be worth on average £800 but with leather add a bit exta so lets say a £1000 and I have to say for a 1989 thats pushing it. thats like $1800 US

Its amaizing the price differences via country, looks like id make a fortune exporting them!

darren

[nate71c]

$8000 US OMG

over in sunny England a car like that would be worth on average £800 but with leather add a bit exta so lets say a £1000 and I have to say for a 1989 thats pushing it. thats like $1800 US

Its amaizing the price differences via country, looks like id make a fortune exporting them!

darren

"Sunny England" :)
Don't they chuck all sorts of salt on the roads for 6 months of the year over in the UK? Bear in mind that the climate in most of Australia is warm and dry and cars live for an extraordinarily long time with no or minimal rust. I know that the Bimmer's are galvanised, but the underbody still takes a beating with salt on the roads.
I wouldn't buy an ex UK 535i for $2000 if my life depended on it. Also, when the 535i was new in Aus, they sold for $90,000. It's a long way to ship a vehicle.

[scott540]

Wow, that leather looks nicer than my 95 (my driver side bolster is pretty worn). That one looks great for that many miles. Steering wheel is in the wrong place though :p

[Phil Sanderson]

The price sounds OK for Adelaide. I don't think it would be all that much less in Sydney.
Maybe not whining diff, maybe CV or wheel bearing. Do what previous posters have advised and have someone have a look at it so you will know exactly what you are up for.
If you have looked at Bruno's site you will have seen the things that can go wrong with these cars, but don't let that put you off. Ask the owner what he has fixed/replaced over the years.
There are many high kilometre E34 owners (or at least their cars) on this site with 300k, 400k and more kilometres. If you intend to buy just go in with your eyes wide open.
That's the beauty of this site - benefit from the shared knowledge of the people who have been there done that.
My '89 525i has 280,000km on it and I expect to get it up to 400,000.

Phil

[Paul in NZ]

they have a standard 90 minute check which is pretty thorough....woll be around a 100 150 dollars.

[1992 BMW 535i]

Nice car! Yesterday I became part of the club when I purchased a 1992 535i. Beauty with 5 speed manual 185,000KMs, black on tan. I will post pics as soon as I can. :D

[nate71c]

Ok everyone, I finally took the plunge! I bought the 535i in the pics last monday. Have done around 300km so far (just to work and back) and I have a few observations:

The pre purchase inspection showed good even compression, smooth quiet gearbox, new brakes, good suspension, all electrics working, bodywork sound, noisy diff. The specialist is recommending I have him rebuild the diff and perform a full service sooner rather than later. I think it's probably a good idea, but I also realise that he can be expected to recommend I give him work!

The car has quite a heavy clutch (it's a 5 speed manual). Is this normal? It engages smoothly and progressively with no smell or noise, but requires quite a bit of pedal pressure.

How do I select which computer functions are available on the dashboard by pressing the indicator stalk in? Some of the functions display twice, and the owner's manual is less than clear on this topic.

The car has a towbar fitted, which I have removed. There is a 12" by 4" rectangular hole in the rear skirt that allows the towbar to protrude, and the car came with a brand new unopened cover plate for this opening. When I tried to fit this cover, it slides down onto the lower lip of the opening no worries, but I can't see a way for the top part of the cover to fasten on. It has two small holes that look as if there should be some form of clip or retaining brackets, but these are missing. Can anyone help me with pics or part numbers?

Finally, how would I go about removing all that horrible yellow junk that is baked onto nearly everything under the hood? I understand this is protectant wax for the sea journey from Europe which was supposed to be removed by the dealer prior to sale. Now we're 15 years down the track, am I going to need to bead blast it all off? I hope not.

Cheers,
Nate

[632 Regal]

Definetly looks like a well maintained vehicle!

[Warren N.CA]

I would replace the lube first with a top quality synthetic like RedLine 75W90 or 75W90NS (If you don't have LSD). if your diff goes bad, you may be able to get one from salvage. Check to see when the tranny lube was changed. Both tranny and diff should be drained and filled each 30K. Also be sure you coolant and brake fluids are no older than 24 months.

Check with Enhanced Automotive Technology to see if Mark D'Sylva can burn you a chip. His chip made an AWESOME improvement in my '89 535i.

You just bought a 15 year old car with high mileage, so be prepared for some repairs, from time to time.



Ok everyone, I finally took the plunge! I bought the 535i in the pics last monday. Have done around 300km so far (just to work and back) and I have a few observations:

The pre purchase inspection showed good even compression, smooth quiet gearbox, new brakes, good suspension, all electrics working, bodywork sound, noisy diff. The specialist is recommending I have him rebuild the diff and perform a full service sooner rather than later. I think it's probably a good idea, but I also realise that he can be expected to recommend I give him work!

The car has quite a heavy clutch (it's a 5 speed manual). Is this normal? It engages smoothly and progressively with no smell or noise, but requires quite a bit of pedal pressure.

How do I select which computer functions are available on the dashboard by pressing the indicator stalk in? Some of the functions display twice, and the owner's manual is less than clear on this topic.

The car has a towbar fitted, which I have removed. There is a 12" by 4" rectangular hole in the rear skirt that allows the towbar to protrude, and the car came with a brand new unopened cover plate for this opening. When I tried to fit this cover, it slides down onto the lower lip of the opening no worries, but I can't see a way for the top part of the cover to fasten on. It has two small holes that look as if there should be some form of clip or retaining brackets, but these are missing. Can anyone help me with pics or part numbers?

Finally, how would I go about removing all that horrible yellow junk that is baked onto nearly everything under the hood? I understand this is protectant wax for the sea journey from Europe which was supposed to be removed by the dealer prior to sale. Now we're 15 years down the track, am I going to need to bead blast it all off? I hope not.

Cheers,
Nate

[Warren N.CA]

undertaking a major refinishing project. If it offends you, keep the hood closed.




Ok everyone, I finally took the plunge! I bought the 535i in the pics last monday. Have done around 300km so far (just to work and back) and I have a few observations:

The pre purchase inspection showed good even compression, smooth quiet gearbox, new brakes, good suspension, all electrics working, bodywork sound, noisy diff. The specialist is recommending I have him rebuild the diff and perform a full service sooner rather than later. I think it's probably a good idea, but I also realise that he can be expected to recommend I give him work!

The car has quite a heavy clutch (it's a 5 speed manual). Is this normal? It engages smoothly and progressively with no smell or noise, but requires quite a bit of pedal pressure.

How do I select which computer functions are available on the dashboard by pressing the indicator stalk in? Some of the functions display twice, and the owner's manual is less than clear on this topic.

The car has a towbar fitted, which I have removed. There is a 12" by 4" rectangular hole in the rear skirt that allows the towbar to protrude, and the car came with a brand new unopened cover plate for this opening. When I tried to fit this cover, it slides down onto the lower lip of the opening no worries, but I can't see a way for the top part of the cover to fasten on. It has two small holes that look as if there should be some form of clip or retaining brackets, but these are missing. Can anyone help me with pics or part numbers?

Finally, how would I go about removing all that horrible yellow junk that is baked onto nearly everything under the hood? I understand this is protectant wax for the sea journey from Europe which was supposed to be removed by the dealer prior to sale. Now we're 15 years down the track, am I going to need to bead blast it all off? I hope not.

Cheers,
Nate

[Paul in NZ]

This pic will make you extremely envious but here is an indication of what is possible.This is George MAnn,s 735,the valve cover and intake manifold have been painted.The procedure for setting the obc functions on the dash go something like this.Press and hold the obc stalk button in and you will see prog 1 or something.You can then select your functions,as many or as few as you like in any order by pressing the respective button on the obc itself.when you have done that i think you press the obc stalk button again.
http://www.bimmer.info/bmw/kiwi535/M-30DrSdResize.jpg
ours proly looks like this
http://www.bimmer.info/bmw/kiwi535/left%20engine.jpg