New member with a problem

[ric5s]

Hi to all members,
Ric's the name and today I bought a BMW 91 5 (e34) series sedan
today which I was very happy about. Drove it onto the car trailer got home drove it off no worries. Drove it up my drive way and it died. :( Thinking fuel added 15 litres to the tank, no go, fuel to engine but will not fire up. Read the info on the net, still stumped??? Never owning a BMW before and always wanting one, I seam to have a problem on the spark or timing side of the motor. As a newbie my questions are.,
How can I find out what engine size/type it is? Engine number., 30567129???
Vin, WBAHB62030BC37163 any clues here???

Crank sensor and cam sensor, should I buy replacements to avoid chasing my tail?
Price limit on these items (au) before I get robbed?
Any help on my problem would be great.
Regards Shattered, Ric

[bmwrp8]

sounds to me crank position sensor. also check your fuel pump.

[shogun]

VIN BC37163
Vehicle code HB62
Series E34
Model 520i (520i M50) so you have a M50 engine, add these data to your profile and 90/1990
Body Type saloon
Catalog Model ECE (European version)
Production Date 09/2990
Engine M50
Transmission Automatic
Steering Right
Catalyzer Yes

Pic, before you buy expensive parts, ask a BMW dealer or a shop with a proper diagnosis tool to run a diagnosis. Especially in Australia the prices are very high for parts. Many people therefore buy from the U.S. such as (I buy from there) www.autohausaz.com
or BMA
Is your drive way on a hill or something? Refill more fuel. Might be not enough as the bottom of the fuel tank is not even. Check the fuel coming from the fuel hose in the engine room. Might be a long time stored car and fuel could be mixed with condensated water in the tank. Water is heavier and sinks to the bottom of the tank.

[Bo525i]

Production Date 09/2990


Wow, maybe thats why it won´t start, it runs on some advanced alien brew from the future.. :D

J/K :)

Good luck with getting it back up ´n running and welcome to the wonderful world of E34´s, a timeless machine!

[shogun]

Thanks, 'small' typo, 02/1990 is correct ;-)

[tim eh?]

hi - couple o' sites you might like to look at that i have found useful time and time again.

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/
punch in your serial # and you can find all the parts for your car.

http://www.bmwe34.net/Wiki/tiki-index.php

shogun's site is really good too as the e32 has a lot in common.

checked spark? if not, well - i'm replacing my cps just b/c i don't know when it was last replaced and it seems to die on people all the time.

edit- i had suggested if you have spark the fuel pump relay as a good place to start but then reread your post... oops! good luck!

[ric5s]

Thanks to all for the feedback and links for advice and info. Started at the BMW local parts guy with a quote of AU $585.00. Moving right along to advice here I came across one for US $53.00
Position/RPM Sensor Crankshaft. This part is manufactured by: FACET.
Applications: 325i E36. See below for more applications!
Applications: 525i M50 E34 525i Touring E34

I removed mine today and it looks old, rubber was brital and cumbled at the sensor, wires and casing are very stiff. After removal, it returned to the shape it held in the engine bay!!!!! Also found out there's some sharp bits down at the harness clip. LOL
Got a coded reader coming, seems a must have with BMW..Cheers.
Ric

[genphreak]

The carsoft one is very limited. The best is the ADS kit at www.bmwecu.org. Have you got fuel pressure? Could also be the return check valve in the petrol tank, they can cause a no start condition.

All that said, it could be EWS if the car isn't cranking. If it is, its fuel problem, or a mustard relay, fuel pump, check valve... I've never seen it spark related on a bimmer...

[ric5s]

Hi All, changed the crank pos sensor, checked the fuel pump, got spark to plugs but still will not fire up. Back to the start. Cheers Ric

[karl1171]

Considering what you've looked at so far this could be a long shot.

My First e34 had a tendency to flood of moved a short distance (eg up your drive!)

The first time it happened I thought it was a starter motor problem as it sounded like it was spinning and not turning the engine.

The car would eventually start if you turned the key to position III and held it leaving the starter to turn for about 2-3 minutes

[ric5s]

hi Karl, on the fuel side of the hunt now. Can turn over for ten minutes strat and will not fire. Tested all spark plug points and clearly have spark now. Disconected fuel hose and system was not under any pressure. Fuel only discharged while cranking. Pump maybe. Cheers Ric

[ric5s]

VIN BC37163
Vehicle code HB62
Series E34
Model 520i (520i M50) so you have a M50 engine, add these data to your profile and 90/1990
Body Type saloon
Catalog Model ECE (European version)
Production Date 09/2990
Engine M50
Transmission Automatic
Steering Right
Catalyzer Yes

Pic, before you buy expensive parts, ask a BMW dealer or a shop with a proper diagnosis tool to run a diagnosis. Especially in Australia the prices are very high for parts. Many people therefore buy from the U.S. such as (I buy from there) www.autohausaz.com
or BMA
Is your drive way on a hill or something? Refill more fuel. Might be not enough as the bottom of the fuel tank is not even. Check the fuel coming from the fuel hose in the engine room. Might be a long time stored car and fuel could be mixed with condensated water in the tank. Water is heavier and sinks to the bottom of the tank.

Back again, Well weeks of trying and still no go. Fuel problem has been resolved with new fuel pump and I have fitted a inline EFI feul pressure gauge to keep a eye on things. Running 51 PSI while cranking so no problem there. I now have new crank sensor, new starter motor, another ECU and still she will not fire up. Cam sensor and temp sensor all test ok in line with the Bently manual specs. Tested the ignition and thats OK with voltage in and voltage out. ECU earth is good as well. It now winds over perfect but would seem that the ECU is not coming in to play. So at this time the car is 99% perfect with all electrics working just no spark or injectors. Tested voltage at the injectors and coil packs, power there. Any advice on where to go from here??
Ric
PS wheres the 20 pin Dignostic plug located???

[632 Regal]

spray some starting fluid into the intake and see if it fires at all, that will confirm fuel side. You have come a long way with this, once sorted she will run like new.

[ric5s]

spray some starting fluid into the intake and see if it fires at all, that will confirm fuel side. You have come a long way with this, once sorted she will run like new.

Hi Jeff, yep tried that one with a can of aussie "start ya bastard" to no avail, thats what lead me to buy a crank sensor and chase the no spark option.
Regards Ric

[632 Regal]

im not sure im following this now, earlier you say pressure at 51lbs (right post am I?) now only while start mode. Should constantly be under pressure and regulated at the back of the fuel rail by vacuum at the fuel pressure regulator. Forgive me if i am blurring multiple threads here.

[ric5s]

im not sure im following this now, earlier you say pressure at 51lbs (right post am I?) now only while start mode. Should constantly be under pressure and regulated at the back of the fuel rail by vacuum at the fuel pressure regulator. Forgive me if i am blurring multiple threads here.

Hi Jeff, Yes you are reading correct, ( i to hate this style of thread) I now have 51 psi in the fuel system while cranking in start and run position. This drop to 40 psi if the engine is in the off position. As the car won't start I'm yet to get a running pressure IE, engine running. The drop after cranking is slow from 51 to 40 psi so I think the fuel pressure reg is going out but by not dead yet.
Regards Ric

[632 Regal]

nope its running correct, 51 and dropping to 40 when off. Now the issue is, are you getting spark I know you say yes but with pressure and spark you should be driving to the local party store and stocking up. How do you know you are getting spark? Did you pull a plug and see spark or are assuming that with coil voltage you are getting spark? Yours have coilpacks or plug wires?

PS I dont have half a clue what engine you have besides a 6 and it dont matter cause I still dont remember the differences.

[ric5s]

Hi Jeff, The engine is a M50 2 litre with a auto behind it. It was a basket case when I got it and have spent a lot of time and effort bringing it up to the mark. Have repaired the body, suspension, steering, inside, body electrics and now I'm back in the engine bay and have hit a wall with this no start issue.

How do you know you are getting spark? Did you pull a plug and see spark or are assuming that with coil voltage you are getting spark? Yours have coilpacks or plug wires?

The testing for spark that I followed was measuring the voltage at the terminals running into the coil packs then removed the coilpack and did the screwdriver test for spark and watched for spark. After reading your post I conducted a retest and I have voltage at the coilpack terminal but no spark with the screwdriver test. I then test the new crank sensor and this gives 540 ohms, cam sensor gave 1580 ohms. So looks like i've got to retest all the engine electronics to see why it's not firing up. Thanks for taking the time and interest in my issue. Very hard to find topics like this that end in a positive outcome.
Regards Ric

[Dave M]

Hi Jeff, The engine is a M50 2 litre with a auto behind it. It was a basket case when I got it and have spent a lot of time and effort bringing it up to the mark. Have repaired the body, suspension, steering, inside, body electrics and now I'm back in the engine bay and have hit a wall with this no start issue.


The testing for spark that I followed was measuring the voltage at the terminals running into the coil packs then removed the coilpack and did the screwdriver test for spark and watched for spark. After reading your post I conducted a retest and I have voltage at the coilpack terminal but no spark with the screwdriver test. I then test the new crank sensor and this gives 540 ohms, cam sensor gave 1580 ohms. So looks like i've got to retest all the engine electronics to see why it's not firing up. Thanks for taking the time and interest in my issue. Very hard to find topics like this that end in a positive outcome.
Regards Ric

These coil packs can be very finicky. Hard to believe you it won't start due to coils, BUT, make sure the plastic shell on the coil and/or the connecting rubber boots aren't damaged. This can make them work intermitently. As you've addressed cam and crank sensors, ECU etc., my guess is that you've got at least one bum coil F'in with your S'. I had a single bad coil on my M50 cause a no start and other intermitent stalling issues.

Good Luck with it,

Dave

[whiskychaser]

The carsoft one is very limited. The best is the ADS kit at www.bmwecu.org. ..
Hang on there. The ADS kit is good but tell him the spec of the laptop he needs to make it work. If you can install Ediabas/Inpa and DIS/GT1 as quick as Carsoft let me know. You will be a better man than I am Gunga Din
Edit: I missed some posts so mine seems surreal!! what i would say is have you got fuel and have you got a spark?

[ric5s]

Hi Dave, did a inspection of all the coil packs today and found the coil pack for cylinder 6 has a slight pasty oil weeping from just above the lead connection about 1/4 inch. It looks like a seam and can be moved slightly but the other coilpacks can not at this spot.
From the issue you had with your coil pack would my coil pack (cyl 6) be in a condition that would require replacement?
coil pack
http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff227/australiangoldfields/IMG_1599.jpg

coil pack with oil smudged.
http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff227/australiangoldfields/IMG_1600.jpg

OK..just noticed the numbers after "Made in Germany" hope that's a part number.
Regards Ric

[Grantus]

94.09. Looks like a date of manufacture to me.

[genphreak]

Coilpacks are an easy check, not sure the procedure and if it is reliable, but you can swap them out with a knowng good set easy enough.

[Grantus]

Is it usual for all coilpacks to fail at once? If it were not all of them you would get some sort of firing response.

I wonder whether it would be worthwhile to pull out the injectors and inspect them.