charging woes part III "The Return"

[tim eh?]

ok we've been through this before.... how complicated can a charging system be?

(depends on the idiot testing it, i guess :()

3rd alternator exhibits the same symptoms as the previous 2... basically...
-14.3v at idle nothing on
-12.0v at idle everything on
supplier insists all 3 were good.

Battery loses charge overnight (last night 12.50 to 12.39... maybe not so bad? I will try again tonight...)

Draw test = 20mA very consistently now.

Everything stock except stereo head unit which I am very confident is not suspect.
Anything electrical works 100% except a fog light indicator in the clusterboard, the passenger in-seat heat, and the fuel guage is whacked.

Battery passed a load test at a trusted garage last wednesday. New december 2007. Moll 91, i guess that's small but it's stock size at least.

I'm testing with two cheap multimeters but they compare well so I am confident with my results.

if you are bored with life you can read some long backgrounds (ptI (http://www.bimmernut.com/forum/showthread.php?t=39752) ptII (http://www.bimmernut.com/forum/showthread.php?t=39830)) and a funny noob hijack of an otherwise useful shogun thread that is somewhat related (http://www.bimmernut.com/forum/showthread.php?t=39048),
but I think that's all the important stuff.

it's gotsta be the battery? no? how 4sure is a load test?

aaaaargh i'm going crazy!




*-AE was right all along i hope? since this post i had it tested and it passed... but... (?)




I'd venture to guess you have a bad cell or two in the battery so you have voltage but not the amperage to back it up, and it is dragging your alternator output down by being a constant load.

[sal_park]

-14.3v at idle nothing on
-12.0v at idle everything on


Sounds like the voltage regulator is broken, normally located on the back of the Alternator. Not sure if this can be changed separately to the alternator on an E34 as I've not touched mine. From memory, it should be around 14v (+/- 0.5v) no matter what the load (within reason :) )

sal

[tim eh?]

Sounds like the voltage regulator is broken, normally located on the back of the Alternator. Not sure if this can be changed separately to the alternator on an E34 as I've not touched mine. From memory, it should be around 14v (+/- 0.5v) no matter what the load (within reason :) )

sal

3 bad voltage regulators???? and i'm sure they tested the heck out of the last one they gave me....

[Claude]

ok we've been through this before.... how complicated can a charging system be?

(depends on the idiot testing it, i guess :()

3rd alternator exhibits the same symptoms as the previous 2... basically...
-14.3v at idle nothing on
-12.0v at idle everything on
supplier insists all 3 were good.

Battery loses charge overnight (last night 12.50 to 12.39... maybe not so bad? I will try again tonight...)

Draw test = 20mA very consistently now.

Everything stock except stereo head unit which I am very confident is not suspect.
Anything electrical works 100% except a fog light indicator in the clusterboard, the passenger in-seat heat, and the fuel guage is whacked.

Battery passed a load test at a trusted garage last wednesday. New december 2007. Moll 91, i guess that's small but it's stock size at least.

I'm testing with two cheap multimeters but they compare well so I am confident with my results.

if you are bored with life you can read some long backgrounds (ptI (http://www.bimmernut.com/forum/showthread.php?t=39752) ptII (http://www.bimmernut.com/forum/showthread.php?t=39830)) and a funny noob hijack of an otherwise useful shogun thread that is somewhat related (http://www.bimmernut.com/forum/showthread.php?t=39048),
but I think that's all the important stuff.

it's gotsta be the battery? no? how 4sure is a load test?

aaaaargh i'm going crazy!




*-AE was right all along i hope? since this post i had it tested and it passed... but... (?)

Tim if you forgot all those voltage / current readings / tests results, what's the problem ? Does your battery fall completly dead no able to start the car ? How would you describe it ?

[Rick L]

It shouldn't drop voltage like that while engine running. Just wondering if you considered higher output alternator than what you currently have? I had this problem with drop in voltage while engine running on the Mase. Stock alternator was inadequate so I installed an alternator with higher output and the voltage drop issue is gone. But still, it shouldn't drain battery overnight. Have you tried unplugging fuses to isolate the issue?


ok we've been through this before.... how complicated can a charging system be?

(depends on the idiot testing it, i guess :()

3rd alternator exhibits the same symptoms as the previous 2... basically...
-14.3v at idle nothing on
-12.0v at idle everything on
supplier insists all 3 were good.

Battery loses charge overnight (last night 12.50 to 12.39... maybe not so bad? I will try again tonight...)

Draw test = 20mA very consistently now.

Everything stock except stereo head unit which I am very confident is not suspect.
Anything electrical works 100% except a fog light indicator in the clusterboard, the passenger in-seat heat, and the fuel guage is whacked.

Battery passed a load test at a trusted garage last wednesday. New december 2007. Moll 91, i guess that's small but it's stock size at least.

I'm testing with two cheap multimeters but they compare well so I am confident with my results.

if you are bored with life you can read some long backgrounds (ptI (http://www.bimmernut.com/forum/showthread.php?t=39752) ptII (http://www.bimmernut.com/forum/showthread.php?t=39830)) and a funny noob hijack of an otherwise useful shogun thread that is somewhat related (http://www.bimmernut.com/forum/showthread.php?t=39048),
but I think that's all the important stuff.

it's gotsta be the battery? no? how 4sure is a load test?

aaaaargh i'm going crazy!




*-AE was right all along i hope? since this post i had it tested and it passed... but... (?)

[Ross]

Hmmm

[tim eh?]

It shouldn't drop voltage like that while engine running. Just wondering if you considered higher output alternator than what you currently have? [...] But still, it shouldn't drain battery overnight. Have you tried unplugging fuses to isolate the issue?

I did a selective fuse pull, anything related to the ihkr, lights and the seats (i swapped seats this summer) but by no means an exhaustive test. Still, I'm only getting a 20mA draw when it's sitting, so I don't see how pulling fuses is going to change anything. (I should say 0.02A as I am measuring on the 10A setting.... for a while I was doublechecking with the 200mA setting but it's such a PITA to do I am taking 0.02 as a good reading. It is very consistent, I even get exactly the same readings for the initial current-surge. ....1.8->2.4A....1.13A... 0.31A.... 0.15A .... 0.03A...0.02A...0.02A...0.02A)

I did originally consider a higher output alternator- talked to a few people about it before I replaced the first one who all said not to bother, especially seeing as everything is stock on the car. Still... a brand new 115 amp alternator ought to be adequate to power everything no? If my vehicle (ie not engine) electrical system was pulling more than 50 amps wouldn't I blow one of the fusible links? I think?


Tim if you forgot all those voltage / current readings / tests results, what's the problem ? Does your battery fall completly dead no able to start the car ? How would you describe it ?

I first noticed it one morning about a month ago, the battery just seemed low as the starter didn't turn as fast as usual. So I started to keep my eye on things, using obc test#9 - and pretty much got the readings described above. There is a noticeable dimming of the interior lights when the system reads 12.0 and below, sometimes I get a little engine shake/hiccup that I never ever get otherwise.

Basically that's it... the biggest drains are the blower fan on max, the rear defrost and the fog lights. For a while I compared readings to the voltmeter and it seems to check about right... readings at the terminal compare at .2-.4V above those on test#9.

When the engine is cold, I actually get much better readings... it doesn't go below 13.0V until the motor has been running for a few minutes but after around 3 minutes it will drop immediately to the lower readings.

My morning commute only lasts around ten minutes but it's very early and on a fast highway with crazy onramps - I really need the defrost and max blower and the lights all functioning A+ because it get's damn cold, dark,miserable and dangerous mid-winter (ntm I'm only ever half-awake at best). I'm less (but still slightly) concerned about freezing myself but montreal winters are brutal on cars with inadequate power. Also, the warrantee on the battery expires next month :).

Took me a while to figure out how to do a draw test, but I am confident I am doing it right now. Every time I complete the circuit (ie by doing a draw test or by replacing the negative terminal) there is a surge of around 2 amps and I here a few clicks... something resetting... last night I noticed the parking lights flash ever-so-briefly also, no wonder the 315mA fuses on the DMM kept blowing!

I have replaced the positive battery terminal. Checked and quadruple-checked the alternator belt (which is new), my mechanic said it's very tight perhaps too tight... i loosened it a bit i get the exact same readings.

Readings from main alternator lead to ground = same as battery
readings from small alternator lead to ground = 0.0V (that info seemed useful to ferret...)
The battery drain, I hope I'm testing it well... I wonder if I should wait a while or try to charge it more on the road before getting the first reading. It's definitely dropping overnight but the readings I get aren't super-consistent. When it stops raining I'm going to switch this gooey 80A link (http://www.bimmernut.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=6235&stc=1&d=1226170881) (any 80Afuse'll do, right?), just for fun:( but in general, most of the wiring on the car is in top shape as far as I can tell.

That's the best I can explain it, I'm really stumped and I really badly want to fix this before winter weather hits. The people are very helpful where I bought the alternator and most people say really good things about them. I think they would let me upgrade to a 140amp alternator, but I think that would only fix the symptom and not the underlying problem.

Q1-A brand new 115 amp alternator ought to be more than adequate to power everything no?
Q2-Battery test... should I have another one done?
Q3-Should I take this 3rd alternator somewhere to test?

Q4-What about something totally different, like, say, the ignition coil? when it heats up a bit it gets hungry and eats amps? Something like that...?
Cap and rotor are new last year, plugs very recent... never changed the wires or the coil but the engine runs like new all the time and the last plugs were a bit blacker than i'd like after 6 months but i think they went through a lot in that time.

Q5-Could somebody in the Chicago area please go and kick Ross' tires for me as a favour?

[bubba966]

I thought E34's used 140A alternators?

Just looked at 'em at Pelican and see that some models had a 115A option. Interesting...

Anyways, it sounds like the 115A unit isn't putting enough juice out in your 10 minute trips to work to properly charge the battery. And a battery that isn't fully charged is going to drop voltage more overnight than a fully charged battery will.

A 20mA draw when the car is off sounds about right. Don't see any problem there.

And the voltage shouldn't be much if any below 14v while the car is running. Seeing how it does drop also leads me to believe that your 115A alternator isn't cutting it.

I'd be installing a 140A model if I was you...

[attack eagle]

car parts stores like to test batteries at 400cca... especially if it is their battery brand.
I wonder why ;)
I make em test it at the real cca and i watch the cell voltage for low cells.

chassis to engine ground ok?

[tim eh?]

car parts stores like to test batteries at 400cca... especially if it is their battery brand.
I wonder why ;)
I make em test it at the real cca and i watch the cell voltage for low cells.

chassis to engine ground ok?

I think I will take the battery in next week.

I think maybe my mechanic did a low cca test, I will get them to do a high-amp test at the parts store.

I'm not sure what/where to check on chassis to ground... continuity? from where to where?

[Ross]

Tim, Just finished sorting equally spooky, albeit different, electrical quirk on an E30.
A tempoarary ground strap between the engine and chassis was the answer. Permanent fix later.
Worth a try I say. Perhaps all that gook you have been coping with has interferred with a ground connection.
Just thinkin' out loud here.

[tim eh?]

Tim, Just finished sorting equally spooky, albeit different, electrical quirk on an E30.
A tempoarary ground strap between the engine and chassis was the answer. Permanent fix later.
Worth a try I say. Perhaps all that gook you have been coping with has interferred with a ground connection.
Just thinkin' out loud here.

...appreciated... sounds like what AE is suggesting.... is there a strap already that I can check? if not you're saying I run a wire from somewhere on the engine block to the battery ground on the chassis where the neg battery terminal connects?

[bubba966]

Might give this a read concerning ground wires http://www.m5board.com/vbulletin/alpinaboard-com-bmw-alpina-discussion/73857-ground-wires-improve-idling-throttle-acceleration.html

[tim eh?]

Might give this a read concerning ground wires http://www.m5board.com/vbulletin/alpinaboard-com-bmw-alpina-discussion/73857-ground-wires-improve-idling-throttle-acceleration.html

great link! thanks bubba, i'm on it!

[Tiger]

Fascinating read. I got a bunch of those wires hanging around. I will do this to see if it improves the car response and fuel mileage.

[sal_park]

Hi Tim,

I agree that 3 broken alternators seems unlikely, but I'm getting confused about what's happening. You appear to be talking about 2 problems - battery and alternator. Just to help me understand a bit better:

Q1: Does the car have trouble cranking in the morning (e.g. slow cranking) ?

Q2: Once running do any of the electrics not work / work slowly / work badly ?
(e.g. dim lights, slow windscreen wipers )

Q3: How are you testing the voltage ? It could be that what your reading the voltage with is broken / not working correctly.


sal

[sal_park]

-14.3v at idle nothing on
-12.0v at idle everything on

Can you repeat this test with a different multimeter (or not using the obc) and as well as as idle, repeat the test with the engine at 2k ?

sal

[tim eh?]

Hi Sal - thanks, I have been using 2 mickey mouse multimeters + the obc and they all seem to back eachother up. I have tested at 2k and it's not draining the battery but it's still not charging it as well as i would like. At idle it definitely drains the battery with lots on. The car drives ok as is and i can keep the battery charged if i am scrooge with the electricity, but it's really not good enough, and I don't think everything is working as it could/should. The battery is losing charge faster than i think it should when the car is sitting, although i'm not 100% confident of my readings. It seems to lose a lot right away then stay relatively stable.



I had a thought last night inspired by the ground problem suggested by 3 top posters (u guys... i love you)... I should have done this when I replaced the ihkr.

The ihkr blew out shortly after i had replaced the alternator. at the time i wasn't aware of any charging troubles, i thought the alternator had finally just given up.

I'm wondering.... the ground wire to the ihkr plug (http://www.bimmernut.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=6237&stc=1&d=1226234644) is pretty huge. if that's bad it could explain... well let's wait and see....
gotta go find ground point G202 which is somewhere 'under the dash' according to bentley... time to start browsing the interior swap photos! anyone know?

http://www.bimmernut.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=6236&stc=1&d=1226234644



i am sooo going to get rustproofed today!

[Claude]

...appreciated... sounds like what AE is suggesting.... is there a strap already that I can check? if not you're saying I run a wire from somewhere on the engine block to the battery ground on the chassis where the neg battery terminal connects?

Tim, Ross comment make me thought: Perhaps a major ground cable or ground connection in the "Battery - Car frame - Engine - Alternator" circuit is bad/loose/intermittent (ex: bad ground point between the battery and the frame) if it's the case such a bad connection may intermittently add an electrical resistance in the circuit, that could explain the voltage variations that you once measured (from 12 to 13.5v)

But that would not explain the large draining current that you've once experienced

[tim eh?]

Tim, Ross comment make me thought: Perhaps a major ground cable or ground connection in the "Battery - Car frame - Engine - Alternator" circuit is bad/loose/intermittent (ex: bad ground point between the battery and the frame) if it's the case such a bad connection may intermittently add an electrical resistance in the circuit, that could explain the voltage variations that you once measured (from 12 to 13.5v)

But that would not explain the large draining current that you've once experienced

yes yes, please read my answer to sal park and tell me what you think?

[Claude]

yes yes, please read my answer to sal park and tell me what you think?

I would say if you trust the quality of the connection you've made around that IHKR controler connector forget about this particular ground. That controler as nothing to do with the car charging system and all accessories that this module control seems to work fine, so find elsewhere !

I had a draining problem on my car few years ago, the cluster was the cause of it, i found out that i had those bad leaking capacitor (electrolytics) on the cluster board (well known and documented on this forum), but beside this draining problem my cluster intermittently stop to work (no temp, no speedo, no RPM...). But i don't want put you on a false track, if your cluster work properly don't search a drain that way.

[Ross]

Tim, slap a temp ground between the engine and ground conn on the firewall or shock tower. Make sure the battery ground cable is well connected too.
I'd rule this out first, it's easy and not unlikely to be the problem.

[tim eh?]

i'm on it, guys...

check this out (http://www.bimmernut.com/forum/showthread.php?p=306566#poststop)

and this (http://www.bimmernut.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=5210&stc=1&d=1226236909)

will ground engine too, wish i had the whole day...

does this look familiar to anyone?

[tim eh?]

update...

ihkr plug to G202 = continuous no resistance

redid plug wiring

made some ground straps for the engine... how does it look?

http://www.bimmernut.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=6242&stc=1&d=1226255037
http://www.bimmernut.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=6241&stc=1&d=1226255037





battery terminal to where i connected the front ground wire is continuous with no resistance.
http://www.bimmernut.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=6243&stc=1&d=1226255037


i'm off for a test drive... btw what are these threaded holes on the engine block for?

http://www.bimmernut.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=6244&stc=1&d=1226255037

[Tiger]

Started a new thread on this Bubba.

[Tiger]

Wire look too thin. I started a new thread on this... you need to verify whether that grounding is good. One end of the probe goes to that engine mount you used for ground (not on that terminal and the other probe go to the other bolt (not the terminal)... what is your reading? It should be 0.0 to 0.5 ohm at the most.

[bubba966]

Tim, looks like you put on two ground straps that don't connect to each other. If so, run another wire to connect the two straps you installed. Try to get a little closer to the BiTurbo setup in that thread on the Alpina board that I linked to above.

[tim eh?]

Wire look too thin. I started a new thread on this... you need to verify whether that grounding is good. One end of the probe goes to that engine mount you used for ground (not on that terminal and the other probe go to the other bolt (not the terminal)... what is your reading? It should be 0.0 to 0.5 ohm at the most.

wire is 10 guage... biggest i got... it's not battery wire but it's pretty thick...

I will be watching that thread you made!
I do not feel qualified to contribute but if it turns out ok i'll post some pics.

My readings are good... <.5ohm for all (enginemount to bolt, bolt to other bolt, other bolt to battery terminal) I actually did that the first time too but just ran out again to make sure. The actual factory bolt itself does not conduct but continuity is there if i run the probe at the seem between the bolt and the wire terminals. I'm not brand new to continuity tests at least... I'm pretty sure you could run some serious current through those wires and connections.


Tim, looks like you put on two ground straps that don't connect to each other. If so, run another wire to connect the two straps you installed. Try to get a little closer to the BiTurbo setup in that thread on the Alpina board that I linked to above.

that is true... they don't connect...

I thought in my case the idea was just to ground the engine to the chassis and see if it makes a difference to the charging.

It doesn't... charging symptoms have not changed the tiniest bit. But it does run a little smoother I think at idle... I dunno, it was pretty smooth already, it's hard to tell.

I think I understand why the daisy-chaining the grounds would would make a difference to performance by evening out the charge - but if this is my charging problem what i did ought to have changed something no? I'll do a proper job... I was pressed for time today, but I don't think this is my solution.

I think (ok... hope... I stopped thinking it's too hard) AE has been right all along... definitely going in to test the battery with 650 cca for as long as they'll let it go.

yesterday's readings... something like...

1pm - 12.50v
3pm - 12.35v

this morning... 12.00v

i dug around a lot under the dash today and everything looks pretty good...
dunno if that deserves a :) or a :(

*- forgot to mention I also checked grounds in engine bay... the ones i found anyway.... they all look pretty solid....


... so yeah... no continuity on the bolt itself... but i think it's good or am i displaying my newbness in full here? ... it's all grounded, the whole car seems grounded to me....


**-


I had a draining problem on my car few years ago, the cluster was the cause of it, i found out that i had those bad leaking capacitor (electrolytics) on the cluster board (well known and documented on this forum), but beside this draining problem my cluster intermittently stop to work (no temp, no speedo, no RPM...). But i don't want put you on a false track, if your cluster work properly don't search a drain that way.

ya know.... it only happened once... but i was sitting at a light once and the rpm guage did kind of a self test... needle went all the way into the red and back to zero. the fuel guage is wonky but that's common enough, the reserve light works.

the fog light indicator in the cluster doesn't work (it's not the bulb)... i think that's a bad connection somewhere and maybe explains the way the parking lights flash briefly when i connect the battery- i noticed they are on the same ground, i'll have to make sure i check that one if i haven't...
i have a spare working cluster for when i start approaching 300,000km (i have a grey-back cluster - still have to set the kms and get the temp guage to work), i'll throw it in there, at this point it can't possibly hurt.

[Tiger]

Did you do this to your car too?

[Ferret]

Pull the battery terminals, leave it overnight and check before/after voltages. Dont bring the battery indoors while you do it - leave it in situ so it can freeze like it would do normally overnight.

You say the parking lights flashed briefly when you plugged it in, classic sign there's a decomissioned alarm hiding somewhere...

We need to compare readings - I'll check what mine gets upto this evening I think - see how many mA the car draws when stone cold shut down.

Are you taking your readings with the doors shut and locked, the bonnet down etc just like the vehicle had been parked up for the night?

[sal_park]

see how many mA the car draws when stone cold shut down.

Somewhere I read that this reading should be taken only after 15 - 20 minutes since the car has been locked. Taking a reading before this point could you measure something shutting down. I remember being surprised that you had to wait quite so long.

[Ross]

Ferret is on to something "classic sign there's a decomissioned alarm hiding somewhere..."
I saw what looked to be that in one your pics of some hinkey wiring around the drivers kickpanel.
Sorry it didn't turn out to be th eground. Haven't you switched batteries yet?

[sal_park]

Another thing I've just thought of (which you may have already tried):
1 by 1 remove all earth / positive power links (e.g. battery to body earth lead) and clean up with sandpaper the contacts and then put it back. This could easily be stopping the charging.

[Ferret]

Ferret is on to something "classic sign there's a decomissioned alarm hiding somewhere..."
I saw what looked to be that in one your pics of some hinkey wiring around the drivers kickpanel.


It would also explain why his locks were having a fit at one point...

EDIT:

Did this third party device get removed?
http://www.bimmernut.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=5784&stc=1&d=1217076942

[attack eagle]

looking at that alarm, those two thick wires are probably for an onboard starter kill relay

if it doesn;t start when you unplug it, connect them together.


Easy load test.
(charge battery first)

1: turn on parking lamps
2: go inside for two-3 hours
3: put a code in the obc
4: start 5-6 times for 10-15 seconds with the headlights on.
5: put in code and try to start it for real.

A battery with enough amperage should start the car no problem.

[tim eh?]

Hi all - mega thanks again for the replies...

I was intending on doing what Ferret suggested today anyway and took her out for a good long spin with nothing but the seat-heat on
(it's still too much of a novelty for me to pass up).

Battery is out of the car and on the back deck outside... (http://www.bimmernut.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=6248&stc=1&d=1226349895) i'm pretty sure you're not supposed to put it on cement for some reason but i think those bricks are ok... (?)

Monday 2pm - 12.68V
3pm - 12.60V (edit...)
4pm - 12.57V
5pm - 12.56V
6pm - 12.56V (...damn...)

I'll try the AE farmer's load test when it's back in.


Pull the battery terminals, leave it overnight and check before/after voltages. Dont bring the battery indoors while you do it - leave it in situ so it can freeze like it would do normally overnight.

You say the parking lights flashed briefly when you plugged it in, classic sign there's a decomissioned alarm hiding somewhere...

We need to compare readings - I'll check what mine gets upto this evening I think - see how many mA the car draws when stone cold shut down.

Are you taking your readings with the doors shut and locked, the bonnet down etc just like the vehicle had been parked up for the night?

draw is 0.02A all the time with ignition off and everything closed except the hood - underhood light only functions if i turn the running lights on. the 0.02 A compares with about 16mA on my other MM but I stopped using that for this test because of the 2A surge and the .315A fuse (2 for $5... no bulk discount :D)

I took out that alarm mess some time ago. You can just barely see the fix here (http://www.bimmernut.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=6247&stc=1&d=1226349895), it was spliced into two wires, everything else had been disconnected already. The splice was really ugly, but there was no evidence of other tampering by the PO thank goodness! I think the fix is as good as the rest of it now- I double checked around there yesterday- clean, the grounds are solid and tight.... never checked the manual to see which wires the alarm was on but i'm pretty sure there was no drain when the old alternator was in there.


I did try a smaller than stock battery and got similar charging results with the alternator that was in there before this one... :( ... not a very controlled test tho, and it wasn't very well charged beforehand.


Wondering about that +/-2.0A surge when I connect the ammeter terminals.... anyone else get that? particularly older cars? the running lights barely flicker, quite different to the typical 'bip-bip' alarm, i didn't even notice until i did it in the dark one day. the obc code alarm works perfect btw... hood sensor, everything! EVERYTHING WORKS DAMMIT!

All the grounds that I found in the engine bay yesterday looked to be in A1 top shape, but I was in a hurry and I need to do a more thorough look.
it only takes one bad one I guess....

*- what about this? (http://www.bimmernut.com/forum/showthread.php?p=303635#poststop) i think i did a good job tho... my foglight cluster light has never worked before or after that that's the only thing.
i could unplug it all i guess but it's a PITA!

tbc...

[tim eh?]

...okay i'm taking a serious look at EWD-161 in the bentley

clues here being the faulty foglight indicator in the clusterboard

and my 'fix' (http://www.bimmernut.com/forum/showthread.php?p=303446#poststop)

the fogs are on a 'hot at all times' circuit

my latest guess is a bad connection at the yellow/grey wire leading to the fog light indicator on the instrument cluster. this ground is the same ground that the ihkr (which shorted out) is on and also the park lights (that flicker when the battery is connected).

maybe it's my fix or a break in the wire somewhere else, but i can pretty much guarantee that the next fuse to get pulled is going to be F7... i'm tempted to throw the battery in there right now and do it...

... will let you know...

[tim eh?]

Monday 2pm - 12.68V
3pm - 12.60V (edit...)
4pm - 12.57V
5pm - 12.56V
6pm - 12.56V (...damn...)




7pm - 12.56V

screw it i'm pulling F7 and going to A&W


(edit-continued here (http://www.bimmernut.com/forum/showthread.php?t=39863))