A little electrical system help: 90 535i washer system

[Jeff N.]

My washer pump has quit working. To compound my problems, the E34 ETM doesn't seem to work with windows XP pro.

Here's some things that would be helpful:

- what are the ohm readings on the reservoir level sender when open, closed? (yes, not really related but I thought I'd fix it while I'm in there)
- which relay in front relay box is the washer pump relay?

I'm not getting any power to pump. The wipers trigger when you initiate the wash circuit and do the normal 5 sweeps and shut down. But, no power at the washer pump. Fuses look OK. So, I'm thinking I either have a problem with the relay or maybe (please, no) a broken wire. A broken wire is possible since I've had this system out a couple times when I replaced the engine.

Appreciate any help, need to get these suckers working with the miserable weather we are having out here.

Thanks, Jeff

[Claude]

My washer pump has quit working. To compound my problems, the E34 ETM doesn't seem to work with windows XP pro.

Here's some things that would be helpful:

- what are the ohm readings on the reservoir level sender when open, closed? (yes, not really related but I thought I'd fix it while I'm in there)
- which relay in front relay box is the washer pump relay?

I'm not getting any power to pump. The wipers trigger when you initiate the wash circuit and do the normal 5 sweeps and shut down. But, no power at the washer pump. Fuses look OK. So, I'm thinking I either have a problem with the relay or maybe (please, no) a broken wire. A broken wire is possible since I've had this system out a couple times when I replaced the engine.

Appreciate any help, need to get these suckers working with the miserable weather we are having out here.

Thanks, Jeff


Can't find the exact info you request in the ETM but with this picture modified a bit with what the Bently said for your car the washer relay should be the 5'one

As for the level sender (on the washer reservoir) it's only an on/off switch device, its job is only to activate the fault message: "washer level low", can't affect the operation of the washer motor.

Hope this will help.

[Jeff N.]

Thanks Claude.

Problem is fixed. Turns out that there are multiple (3 actually) grey plugs from the wiring harness in the area of the washer bottle. One of the other plugs was connected to the washer. I suspect the wrong one was connected during the last engine pull (yes, it's been broken that long!). Once I figured out the correct one (thank you bentley for the nice wiring diagrams) and plugged in the right one, everything worked. Seems to have corrected the wash level sensor as well; electrically, the systems must be related somehow.

[Jeff N.]

hmm. Spoke too soon on the level sensor getting fixed. Anyone know the readings on this thing? It's submerged and it shows an open (infinite ohms) status.

Jeff

[Bo525i]

Try twisting it around till you find the right position, I had the the warning one day after fiddling with my headlights.. I thought I broke it or something but when I turned it to a vertical position the warning disappeared!

Might be worth a try in your car too?

[Jeff N.]

Mine is vertical now. I wonder if it's just toast.

[nirvana19]

Sensor dies just like the coolant, if it's submerged and open circuit the sensor is bad (unless you have another wiring issue at the harness).

Once I my washers stopped working and I found the tank was empty. Filled up and then got "Washer Fluid Low". Sensor was upside down...

[Jeff N.]

Prongs are supposed to face vertical, correct?

[Bill R.]

first message that came up was the low washer fluid....
I knew it wasn't low so i removed the tank and inspected it. And it answered your question.. The level sensor where it plugs in is shaped like a D meaning its round with a flat on one side. The washer bottle where it plugs into is also recessed in the shape of a D so it only plugs into the container one way. Thats which the terminals pointing up. I fiddled with mine and cleaned it and put it back in, and still got the message, cleared it and played with it some more, still got the message. Started the car and entered the radio code, set the obc and played around with all the controls that hadn't been messed with for a year and change. After about ten minutes of it idling and running, turned the car off and restarted it. Message gone, sensor works now.
So i guess after you orient it , it takes a while to reset itself in the CCM...

[Jeff N.]

hmm. i haven't pulled mine out yet. maybe I should get off my lazy butt and do that. mine typically but not always signal low fluid. sometimes it will take 5 or 10 minutes of driving before it trips.

i do have it oriented correctly based on your description but I seem to recall that my sensor will rotate in the tank.

maybe i just have some glicky contacts, sounds like you could clean yours...

[Bill R.]

look at the shape of it and the shape of the tank where it plugs into its obvious which way it goes. I think its a magnetic reed switch , doesn't actually have any contacts, but i cleaned up the little metal are which is on the float mechanism , don't know if that actually helped or not.




hmm. i haven't pulled mine out yet. maybe I should get off my lazy butt and do that. mine typically but not always signal low fluid. sometimes it will take 5 or 10 minutes of driving before it trips.

i do have it oriented correctly based on your description but I seem to recall that my sensor will rotate in the tank.

maybe i just have some glicky contacts, sounds like you could clean yours...