2nd Gear drags before changing

[dreman77]

Hi all,

I have a 1991 520I with aM50 engine in it. I just purchased it and I have noticed the trans prog light come on once. I switched the car off and when I started it, the warning went away.

However I have noticed that the second gear drags before changing up. It is the only gear where this happens and it happens under slower acceleration (slightly) and hard acceleration (jerks strongly). Its like I just floored the pedal even though the pedal is the same position throughout the acceleration. I may be moving off at about 2500 rpm and then when it is in second and going to change into third, the rpm shoots up to about 4000k and then it changes gears. :(

I have searched through the website and have not found a similar occurrence.

I have not had the gearbox serviced yet but have it booked in for this week.

Any help will be greatly appreciated.

Regards from down under,
dreman

[whiskychaser]

Hi all,

I have a 1991 520I with aM50 engine in it. I just purchased it and I have noticed the trans prog light come on once. I switched the car off and when I started it, the warning went away.

However I have noticed that the second gear drags before changing up. It is the only gear where this happens and it happens under slower acceleration (slightly) and hard acceleration (jerks strongly). Its like I just floored the pedal even though the pedal is the same position throughout the acceleration. I may be moving off at about 2500 rpm and then when it is in second and going to change into third, the rpm shoots up to about 4000k and then it changes gears. :(

I have searched through the website and have not found a similar occurrence.

I have not had the gearbox serviced yet but have it booked in for this week.

Any help will be greatly appreciated.

Regards from down under,
dreman
I would think its either the clutch discs are shot or you have a problem with a solenoid valve or the wiring to it. Have the codes read as soon as you can. Meanwhile try easing off a tiny bit as it changes up. Its no solution but may help preserve the gearbox until you can get it checked over

[dreman77]

I would think its either the clutch discs are shot or you have a problem with a solenoid valve or the wiring to it. Have the codes read as soon as you can. Meanwhile try easing off a tiny bit as it changes up. Its no solution but may help preserve the gearbox until you can get it checked over

Hi whiskychaser,

thanks for replying so quickly. I am new to the world of bimmers. Which solenoid valve would you be referring to? In fact thats what I have been doing, I will normally let go of the accelerator just as it about to change into third and then accelerate normally again.

[whiskychaser]

Hi whiskychaser,

thanks for replying so quickly. I am new to the world of bimmers. Which solenoid valve would you be referring to? In fact thats what I have been doing, I will normally let go of the accelerator just as it about to change into third and then accelerate normally again.
I checked realoem and think you have the same box as me (A5S310z) but the plate is on the side of the box if you want to make sure. If its the same, my guess would be that its solenoid no.4 but there are other valves that can affect it. You can check the resistances of the solenoids and the two speed sensors with a DMM at the EGS control unit connection behind the right hand floor speaker. I have a box in my back yard that became terminal very soon after I experienced the same problem as you so dont leave it too long before getting the codes read ;)

Edit: These links show what I'm getting at:
http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll280/whiskychaser/5HP1802.jpg
http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll280/whiskychaser/5HP1801.jpg

[dreman77]

I checked realoem and think you have the same box as me (A5S310z) but the plate is on the side of the box if you want to make sure. If its the same, my guess would be that its solenoid no.4 but there are other valves that can affect it. You can check the resistances of the solenoids and the two speed sensors with a DMM at the EGS control unit connection behind the right hand floor speaker. I have a box in my back yard that became terminal very soon after I experienced the same problem as you so dont leave it too long before getting the codes read ;)

Edit: These links show what I'm getting at:
http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll280/whiskychaser/5HP1802.jpg
http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll280/whiskychaser/5HP1801.jpg

Thanks mate. That does look bad. I might just go to a transmission specialist and get it sorted out. Hopefully it wont be too expensive. :(

[whiskychaser]

Thanks mate. That does look bad. I might just go to a transmission specialist and get it sorted out. Hopefully it wont be too expensive. :(
If its the clutches then I think it will soon be like my old one- toast. But the valves etc (2.11) are on the valve body and that can be dropped without taking the box out. Fingers crossed its something simple

[Tiger]

It is usually the seals that goes bad... clutches rarely look bad unless been driven like that for a long time. Perhaps he can source a good used transmission and drop it in.

[dreman77]

It is usually the seals that goes bad... clutches rarely look bad unless been driven like that for a long time. Perhaps he can source a good used transmission and drop it in.

Brought it to a transmission specialist today and he said it was because of the clutch. Quoted me $4500 to recondition it. Thats more than what I paid for the car. :(

[whiskychaser]

Brought it to a transmission specialist today and he said it was because of the clutch. Quoted me $4500 to recondition it. Thats more than what I paid for the car. :(
A recon in the UK would cost £1K excluding fitting and you only get 12 months warranty. Thats more than mine is worth too. I've replaced mine twice with used units. The one thats in now cost £80 and its going strong. But its a lottery and you might want to consider 'going manual'. If so, there are some great write-ups on here. If you are in a gambling mood and decide to swap for another auto then I may be able give you some hints. Just one question - did the specialist give you the fault code from the tranny?

[dreman77]

A recon in the UK would cost £1K excluding fitting and you only get 12 months warranty. Thats more than mine is worth too. I've replaced mine twice with used units. The one thats in now cost £80 and its going strong. But its a lottery and you might want to consider 'going manual'. If so, there are some great write-ups on here. If you are in a gambling mood and decide to swap for another auto then I may be able give you some hints. Just one question - did the specialist give you the fault code from the tranny?

Hi,

no. he didnt give me an actual code. He just said that the transmission was slipping. i checked around and fitting a second hand unit is about 1400 with labour.

[whiskychaser]

Hi,

no. he didnt give me an actual code. He just said that the transmission was slipping. i checked around and fitting a second hand unit is about 1400 with labour.
Thats still about £700 and no guarantee. But if you dont feel up to swapping it or converting it to manual then labour is going to be a killer. Be interested to know what you decide

[dreman77]

Thats still about £700 and no guarantee. But if you dont feel up to swapping it or converting it to manual then labour is going to be a killer. Be interested to know what you decide

is it hard to change the tranny by myself? If I get a used one for about $750 then it wont be so bad. My mechanical skills are not that bad as long as I have a guide to follow and the proper tools.

[bmwrp8]

My cousin has the exact same problem as yours only his car was a 1991 mitsubishi galant. We change the tranny still the same.. It turned out to be the trans. computer box all along. won't hurt if you check yours:)

[dreman77]

My cousin has the exact same problem as yours only his car was a 1991 mitsubishi galant. We change the tranny still the same.. It turned out to be the trans. computer box all along. won't hurt if you check yours:)

ok... sorry if this this is a stupid question. the tans computer is different from the E.C.U ?

[bmwrp8]

ok... sorry if this this is a stupid question. the tans computer is different from the E.C.U ?

the engine has its own and the tranny

[whiskychaser]

This may be of interest:
http://www.bimmerboard.com/members/WTH/bmwDTCodes.pdf

[dreman77]

This may be of interest:
http://www.bimmerboard.com/members/WTH/bmwDTCodes.pdf

Hi guys,
Almost everyone is telling me that the hearbow would have to be reconditioned even without checking the valves or the seals. Is there a way for me to check the valves / solenoids / seals myself before sending it into the workshop?

Thanks

[whiskychaser]

Hi guys,
Almost everyone is telling me that the hearbow would have to be reconditioned even without checking the valves or the seals. Is there a way for me to check the valves / solenoids / seals myself before sending it into the workshop?

Thanks
The fault code(s) will point you in the right direction. I see no way of testing the solenoids etc under live conditions. You could try a valve body overhaul kit but if your specialist has already said its the clutches then that would be a waste of time and money

[dreman77]

The fault code(s) will point you in the right direction. I see no way of testing the solenoids etc under live conditions. You could try a valve body overhaul kit but if your specialist has already said its the clutches then that would be a waste of time and money

I have been reading about so many others who have had the issue of Transprog. Some did a valve kit and that solved it. Some topped up their ATF fluid level and that worked. I just hate it when somebody tells me it will take a whole tranny rebuild even without looking at these issues first. While they may be specialists, they are also businessmen. I think I might try a fluid and filter change first and see how it goes. I would do it myself but I cant get under the car without jacks, and I only have the one that came with the car. :)

[dreman77]

Hi all,

I have a 1991 520I with aM50 engine in it. I just purchased it and I have noticed the trans prog light come on once. I switched the car off and when I started it, the warning went away.

However I have noticed that the second gear drags before changing up. It is the only gear where this happens and it happens under slower acceleration (slightly) and hard acceleration (jerks strongly). Its like I just floored the pedal even though the pedal is the same position throughout the acceleration. I may be moving off at about 2500 rpm and then when it is in second and going to change into third, the rpm shoots up to about 4000k and then it changes gears. :(

I have searched through the website and have not found a similar occurrence.

I have not had the gearbox serviced yet but have it booked in for this week.

Any help will be greatly appreciated.

Regards from down under,
dreman

alrighty,

i have not moved the car in two days (still fighting with the sword cover) and looked underneath. I have noticed that there is a leak from the front and rear of the propeller shaft. not minor drops nor a big puddle. sort of like the size of a teacup stain on the floor. could this leakage also lead to the problems that I am having with my tranny?

thanks

[whiskychaser]

alrighty,

i have not moved the car in two days (still fighting with the sword cover) and looked underneath. I have noticed that there is a leak from the front and rear of the propeller shaft. not minor drops nor a big puddle. sort of like the size of a teacup stain on the floor. could this leakage also lead to the problems that I am having with my tranny?

thanks

I doubt it. But Shogun has just listed the filling procedure so why not try topping it up?
http://www.bimmernut.com/forum/showthread.php?t=40931

[TheoRacle]

Hey dreman77 any updates? I've got a 325 running a 5HP18 with very similar symptoms- alomost as if there not enough fluid in the system. Only i've just had a new transmission filter fitted and fluid top up by one of Brisbane's supposedly reputable BM workshops (cannot really comment further as I'm a new BM owner) and it hasn't made the slightest difference. Would be really interested to find out if you've found the cause of the problem.

[whiskychaser]

Hey dreman77 any updates? I've got a 325 running a 5HP18 with very similar symptoms- alomost as if there not enough fluid in the system. Only i've just had a new transmission filter fitted and fluid top up by one of Brisbane's supposedly reputable BM workshops (cannot really comment further as I'm a new BM owner) and it hasn't made the slightest difference. Would be really interested to find out if you've found the cause of the problem.
If you list the symptoms I will post the pages from the diagnostic schedules for you. I have a feeling that 2-3 gear flaring is an issue with these boxes and with the 5HP30 too. My guess is there was some sort of mod to correct this problem. Its not in the repair manual but I wouldnt want to air my dirty linen either. I've asked the question of ZF and will post what/if they repond