HID conversion kit

[jarome]

I've been driving a '95 525i for about 6 months and thinking about getting a HID conversion kit. The car didn't come with xenons...just stock lights and these won't do. I was just wondering if anyone has any suggestions on which kits are good. Planning on spending about $250-$400. Thanks

[Unregistered]

I've been driving a '95 525i for about 6 months and thinking about getting a HID conversion kit. The car didn't come with xenons...just stock lights and these won't do. I was just wondering if anyone has any suggestions on which kits are good. Planning on spending about $250-$400. Thanks

Actually, in europe, factory OE Xenon headlights were available for E32/34s. These Xenon lights also had the self-leveling feature found in current BMWs. However, if you were able to find a pair, be prepared to pay ~$1300/pair.

As for Xenon kits, you may want to take a look at this:

http://www.bbesound.com/bmw/hidinstall/

[shragon]

cheap way of making stock lights much better: http://www.bmwe34.net/e34main/upgrade/more_light.htm

hid kits, try www.xenonfactory.com

[Tiger]

Best bet is simply convert to euro headlights for $170 a set... can be found on ebay. This is if your headlight is origiinal and look sandblasted upon close inspection.

[Unregistered]

I think the idea on bmwe34.net is worth it. I am concerned about creating electrical issues. Shragon, did you try 9005's yet?

[rickm]

I ran the modified 9005s for a few months, they lasted about 3 months before they failed and needed to be replaced.

[Russell]

Used Oshram Sylvania standard bulbs. DID NOT use Silverstars! Knock on wood!


I ran the modified 9005s for a few months, they lasted about 3 months before they failed and needed to be replaced.

[rickm]

Used Oshram Sylvania standard bulbs. DID NOT use Silverstars! Knock on wood!

I used the Silverstars...sorts of sucks for a 15.00 bulb to last only 3 months when the Osrams have lasted much longer. I want to get the euro lights sometime later this summer.

[Phil M]

I *think* I did the silverstars.. I'm at about 6 months now.

[David Chen]

The reason that bulbs like the Silverstar or PIAA only last 3-6 months is because their filaments are more tightly packed and thus burn brighter (and hotter) than regular 51 watt halogen bulbs. And the Silverstar & PIAA 9005s are highbeam bulbs so they burn almost as hot as those cheap 85 watt Korean bulbs that also last 3-6 months.


I used the Silverstars...sorts of sucks for a 15.00 bulb to last only 3 months when the Osrams have lasted much longer. I want to get the euro lights sometime later this summer.

[jplacson]

Sylvania may be owned by Osram... but Osram Silverstars are FAR better than the Sylvania Silverstars. Osrams are much better.

[dca]

aftermarket ones are about 400$.(in europe)

[Unregistered]

Before you go off spending money on Silver Stars, or doing an HID conversion, read some information I wrote up for another site.

Cary

When measuring the output of a lamp, many people focus on wattage. Wattage tells us little to nothing about the output of a bulb on the amount of electricity the bulb draws. The proper way to measure light output from a bulb is in lumens which measures the total output of a bulb. Compare this to candlepower which measure the intensity of light measured at one foot and is easily manipulated by playing with the focus of a lamp (i.e. a spot lamp will have a much higher candlepower rating than a flood with the same bulb).

Stock the lamps on the LC put out the following amount of light (these are best case numbers):

HB4 (9006) 55watts 1000 lumens
HB3 (9005) 65watts 1700 lumens

For comparison here is the spec for all non-tinted factory HID lamps:

D1S ~35watts 3200lumens


So what are the options for upgrades? In order from cheapest to most expensive they are:

a) Convert 9005 high beam bulbs to work in the standard 9006 low beam slot. Here is a link on how to do it: www.bmwe34.net/e34main/upgrade.../more_light.htm . The advantages to doing this are that the you get 1700 lumens of output for about $15. The disadvantages are 1) the bulbs to do not fit snugly in the housing (20mm bulb base v. 22mm mounting), 2) There is no front shield on the 9005 bulb leading to increased glare, and 2) as a result of number 1, poor lighting pattern due to poor bulb alignment.

b) Install 55w Narva Xenon lamps from www.puma-access.com for $13 apiece. Narva is a high quality German subsidiary of Phillips and their bulbs generally have the highest output of standard replacement bulbs (an extra 100 or so lumens).

c) Purchase high output 9006 and 9005 bulbs. Note, this should only be done if you have upgraded the wiring harness. According to Daniel Stern, the output of German 9005 and 9006 high output bulbs are as follows:

9006 80 watt- 1650 Lumens
9005 100 watt- 2540 Lumens

The problem is that nobody seem to be able to get the German Bulbs, many have tried and all have failed. So we are left with the high watt Hella Korean made bulbs which have numerous problems. In fact Hella has stopped the manufacture of the high output bulbs in Korea due to quality issues and they are supposedly seeking a German bulb supplier. The primary problems with the high watt bulbs is that 1) they have very inconsistent filament placement leading to light aiming problems and poor beam quality, and 2) they last about 1-3 months. The advantages of these bulbs are they are cheap at about $10.00 each. If you want them the most reliable supplier is www.rallylights.com .

d) You can upgrade to HIR bulbs, which are best described by the God of Lighting, Daniel Stern as:

The new bulbs are not some tinted or overwattage version of 9005 and 9006,
but rather employ a relatively new technology called HIR, Halogen
Infrared. The mechanical dimensions of the bulb are all virtually
identical to the 9005 and 9006 bulbs, but the bulb glass is spherical
instead of tubular, with the sphere centered around the filament. There is
a "Durable IR Reflective" coating on the spherical glass. Infrared = heat,
so the coating causes heat to be reflected back to the filament at the
center of the sphere. This causes the filament to become much hotter
(producing more light) than it can by passing electricity through it,
*without* the shorter life or greater heat production that comes with
overwattage bulbs (to say nothing of overwattage bulbs' incompatibility
with stock wiring.)

Here's the comparison:

Low beam stock: 9006, 12.8V, 55W, 1000 lumens
Low beam new: HIR2, 12.8V, 55W, 1875 lumens

High beam stock: 9005, 12.8V, 65W, 1700 lumens
High beam new: HIR1, 12.8V, 65W, 2530 lumens

So you're looking at nearly 88 percent more light from the low beams and a
grand total of 137% more light (49% of which from the high beam units, 88%
of which from the low beams, which may be wired to remain on with the high
beams) on high beam. The beam pattern will not change, but there will be
considerably more light within the beam pattern.

Now, it's not a problem to use HIR1 in any high beam that takes 9005. High
beams are by definition difficult to make too intense. If there's anyone
in front of you to object to glare, you should be using LOW beams. There
is a low-beam HIR bulb, but it must be used with discretion. The HIR2 (low
beam bulb) produces 1875 lumens. That's about 88 percent more light than a
9006, so it must only be used in low beams that have, as part of their
design, excellent control of upward stray light. If the low beam pattern
doesn't have a sharp horizontal cutoff at the top of the beam, if there's
appreciable upward stray light above horizontal, you will produce
excessive glare and get excessive backdazzle with HIR2s.

These bulbs are spendy - $39/ea - but their cost is worth considering in
context: Any number of companies will charge you more than this for a
tarted-up 9005 or 9006 with blue colored glass (PIAA comes to mind) that
doesn't produce more light and has a very short lifespan.

The HIR bulbs have a double-wide top ear on the plastic bulb base, this is
to comply with the law requiring different bulbs to have different bases.
The extra-wide plastic top ear is easily trimmed or filed to make the bulb
fit your headlamp's bulb receptacle. Once that's done, they go directly
into the headlamp, and the existing sockets snap on.

It should also be noted that HIR bulbs have a much longer life expectancy than hi watt bulbs, in fact they are equivalent to stock wattage bulbs with the 55 watt HIR having a 1000 hour expectancy and the 65 watt bulb having a 275 hour life expectancy.

More information on the HIR bulbs can be found at:

www.gelighting.com/na/litlib/h...techsheet1.html

There are three places that HIR bulbs can be obtained (at least that we have been able to find). They are:

a. You local John Deere Dealer. They are available under part # is AH162232 and the price each was $28.55. Note that these are only low beam replacements, no high beam is available and you will have to trim the tab as described above.

b. Order them from www.danielsternlighting.com for $39 each. He stocks both the low and high beam bulb. These bulbs also required tab trimming.

c. Order the IPF version from www.sleeoffroad.com for $55 each. They stock both the low and high beam and require not tab trimming.

e) You could seek out an convert to the factory E-code lamps for approximately $550 and have the ability to run quality hi-watt bulbs. I have no more information than this on the E-code lamps for a Landcruiser.

6. Why No HID Conversions

HID retrofit kits are no longer legal for sale as of August 2003. Sellers may be fined $5000 per day for offering them for sale. Aside from that, there are some real problems with conversion kits, even those that have the filament in the proper position. Essentially, HID lamps emit light in a different radiation patter than regular incandescent bulbs. This leads to sever spotting in conversion lamps that were not designed for HID bulbs in the first place. Also HID lamps that are designed for the bulbs from the start are designed for a broader flatter beam (mind you I am ignoring the superior European lighting standards and focusing on the US standards). For some great information, check out these two websites www.hidforum.com and http://www.network54.com/Hide/Forum/216460 . The bottom line is the consensus is to forget doing an HID conversion using the stock lenses.


7. What about those cool blue lights I see?

Lights like piaa Ultrabrightblindyoublues, are a waste of money. Any blue bulb is a waste of money and there is no such thing as 55w=110w, all this is playing with the filament and measurements, the bulbs do not have higher lumens output. The blue color is obtained by adding a tint to the bulb which decreases total lumens output. For an extended discussion of the problems with blue bulbs, why color temperature of bulbs advertised all over the net is irrelevant and misleading and why the US made Phillips Silverstars stink see the following link:

www.danielsternlighting.com/te...ulbs/bulbs.html

BTW, ALL FACTORY HID LAMPS are 4100k lights. HID lamps are only manufactured in 4100K and 5000k (for replacement). Any other color temp HID lamp is either tinted or falsely advertised.