Transmission Woes: How much Trans Fluid?

[vping]

Hopefully the last installment of Transmission Woes. 'I replaced the filter and then filled it up with 3.2 quarts as the Bentley states. Nothing registering on the dipstick. How much more do I need?

[632 Regal]

as much as it takes to get to the full level. Your not supposed to overfill so the Bently estimate is on the shy side.
Nothing registering on the dipstick. How much more do I need?

[vping]

Shy side? I'm on 4 quarts and still no reading.

[shogun]

How did you check that? Engine running and switching thru all gears?
See instructions under
www.europeantransmissions.com
tech tips, all mentioned there in detail how to do.

[632 Regal]

If it isnt pouring right out the bottom you should add more. Sorry it's too easy for me to pick on you here. If the filter and stuff was off more than a few minutes the torque converter will back spill out of the trans losing much more than the 3.2 quarts. Keep adding buddy.


Shy side? I'm on 4 quarts and still no reading.

[vping]

Yes I checked it with engine running and switching thru all gears. The filter was off for more than a minute so I'm sure that a lot drained out. In fact I can see how full the drain pan is and it does not compare to 3 quarts I put back in. I'l picking up a few more today.

While switch through the gears, I can feel it engage drive but reverse is very slight but I'm still low on fluid. When I get more I hope it does the trick. We'll see later.

[whiskychaser]

ZF 4HP22 takes 3 litres excluding TC, 7.5 litres with it. I dont see anything to stop the TC emptying to a level when you remove the filter. If you have put in 4 quarts thats 4.54 litres. I reckon you may need up to another two litres. (I dont actually know what a US quart is - I'm assuming its two pints like in the UK, a pint being 0.7 of a litre)

[vping]

Well I'm bummed. The car goes into reverse but not very effectively. It moves more than neutral but not much.

Are there any linkages that could potentially be adjusted?

If not I guess I have a decision to make on this one.

[whiskychaser]

Well I'm bummed. The car goes into reverse but not very effectively. It moves more than neutral but not much.

Are there any linkages that could potentially be adjusted?

If not I guess I have a decision to make on this one.

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=HD23&mospid=47408&btnr=25_0049&hg=25&fg=15

Put it in park. Check position of lever 23 so you know if it should be fully forward or back. (I cant remember if its back or forward in park) Make sure you hold 28 and undo nut 27. Push on lever 23 to make sure it is fully 'home'. Retighten 28/27. TBH if you undo 17/27/28 you can drop the cable and operate the lever 23 by hand - one 'click' back from park is obviously reverse. That way you would know 100% if you have an adjustment issue

[632 Regal]

Trans fluid is full I assume. Without reading through everything was there a bunch of material in the pan when removed?

If not a bunch of crap in the pan it would most likely be the seals. Get a service manual for it if you plan on opening up the big old gray mystery box. ;)


Well I'm bummed. The car goes into reverse but not very effectively. It moves more than neutral but not much.

[vping]

Not really a bunch of stuff but some stuff. The magnets were quite fuzzy though. Is replacing the seals a quick and easy or is it worth it to rebuild? Can the seals be replaced in situ or do I have to remove said gray mystery box?

[genphreak]

Are you using the right fluid? Is it warm and cycled through the gears properly just before you check the level? Dexron III or a modern Mercon? May be best if you have at least 7L in there to drive around the block and then come back and test the level. I know in mine, a soft reverse engage means low level- or maybe a hard one means too high a level.

You really want neither of course, after all it's a Bimmer. Over time too high=failure, too low= poor performance (and probably failure). BeeEmTroubleus!!!

[632 Regal]

Needs to be pulled to disassemble everything... in other words you will be rebuilding mystery box but just replacing needed seals. Without a bunch of stuff in the pan the clutches should be fine, but you will be able to inspect them while replacing seals.

Can the seals be replaced in situ or do I have to remove said gray mystery box?

[vping]

I was told to part with it now before it becomes more of a headache.

Here is what I have into it so far. Let me know what you all think.

1991 535I. 142,000 mils. No rust. almost perfect interior except for really minor seat wear. Red Ext/Black int. Runs and drives perfect (except for the tranny issue)

Purchased it a year ago for $300
Towing $75
Tires $300
Struts - $200
Rotors - $200
Upper Strut Bushings $70
Oil change, inspection, headlight and trans filter change $100

So I'm only into it about $1250. How much could a trans cost? Is it worth it?

[632 Regal]

Well you have to consider that the car should run to 300K miles before swapping the engine out. You say runs/drives perfect. How much would it cost you to buy a decent car that is dependable and runs perfect? How much would you have to invest in another car before it gets to be decent? If you get it into that condition that you are hoping to, when done... is it a BMW?