two questions for Bill R, if he pleases......

[ryan roopnarine]

1. You know how my car is currently, with respect to my having bypassed the heater core. I was wondering, if I were to take the heater control valve out (specifically the pump) would the cooling plumbing load be too great without the assistance of the pump to operate? your thoughts? Those hoses look a little bit larger than most other cars (the labyrinthe 4 way one). Would like to take the HCV assembly out and have seals made for it, possibly have the pump+motor reconditioned, if it is possible to do so without destroying any necessary plastic.

2. Considering what your cluster trip odometer did when the capacitors were failing, would you (personally) pull your cluster if that were the only fault with it? My only problem is the no trip meter reset, and one or two bottom rows of pixels on the LCD failing to immediately start up below 55 degrees F.

[winfred]

i am not bill but ill butt in anyway. usually the plastic dies on the pump and one of the nipples breaks off, the valves hang in there pretty well till one of em dies, by sticking or the electro magnetetic coil breaking down.
i don't see too many cluster problems besides lighting

[ryan roopnarine]

welllll....can you comment any on taking the auxiliary water pump out of the loop.....now i'm freaking tempted to go in there and "plastic weld" the broken heater core tube with a lighter and weedeater line and see how well it holds up.

[winfred]

it shouldn't care, the aux pump just works on the heater side of the cooling system

[winfred]

id rough it up, clean well and jb quick it instead of trying to get plastic to stick to the fiber renforced plastic of the core or the aluiminum feeder tubes

[ryan roopnarine]

i was assuming that the failure in that area is in the middle or other end of the tubes, not at the metal end...i guess it would make sense that it would break at the part you suggest. i was thinking of testing this out on the airbox thermostat i broke when changing alternator brushes...as all i did was hit the fitting with the side of my hand, causing it to break off. dan d of this list was helping me, i finally got one of the screws out of the regulator out, and, all of a sudden, we see a significant leaking of coolant onto the ground, kinda of sucks that plastics that would eventually become that brittle would be used to handle coolant. i estimate that this aint nothing different from nylon 6/12 (at best) consisting of some generic type of hexamethylene diamine and some acid (i aint no chemist so nobody call me on it). ill clean it up with the tricholorethy... or acetone (the trichloro is hard to find now since they don't make brake parts cleaner out of it any more) or acetone....my lazy ass will end up with the acetone, i'm sure. i tried the JB stuff, apparently coolant doesn't like it, at least when i try it. I figure if i do a small fitting like the airbox , and it fails, at least I have some warning before it dumps all of the coolant on the ground. i just don't like haveing the airbox coolant hose jerry rigged with the air compressor fitting (though it is working exceptionally well).


id rough it up, clean well and jb quick it instead of trying to get plastic to stick to the fiber renforced plastic of the core or the aluiminum feeder tubes