View Full Version : "unique" field expedient radiator repair technique
ryan roopnarine
08-15-2009, 04:26 PM
I don't think that I have the stones to try this on anything I own if I'm sitting in my driveway, but it is a good thing to file into the memory bank if something pops up in bfe.
http://www.stockcarracing.com/howto/134_0411_radiator_repair_tech/index.html
632 Regal
08-15-2009, 04:49 PM
looks like a lot of effort, I have just pinched and rolled the tubes before and it held all the way home from a vacation once.
looks like a lot of effort, I have just pinched and rolled the tubes before and it held all the way home from a vacation once.
I'm with Jeff, at least for road cars.
A temp. repair shouild be simple and fast. If the method involves removal why not relace the rad? For the cost of the hotel room you'll need waiting for the JB weld to harden you could buy a rad for some cars.
I'd use Jeff's method of pinching and rolling the tubes for big damage or just toothpicks in the holes and Bar's Leaks for old corroded ones.
Anyone here ever try the egg?
632 Regal
08-16-2009, 08:12 PM
Never tried the egg, did try the pepper trick with no luck.
I'm with Jeff, at least for road cars.
A temp. repair shouild be simple and fast. If the method involves removal why not relace the rad? For the cost of the hotel room you'll need waiting for the JB weld to harden you could buy a rad for some cars.
I'd use Jeff's method of pinching and rolling the tubes for big damage or just toothpicks in the holes and Bar's Leaks for old corroded ones.
Anyone here ever try the egg?
genphreak
08-22-2009, 04:43 PM
looks like a lot of effort, I have just pinched and rolled the tubes before and it held all the way home from a vacation once. For a pinhole leak in a tube, its easy once you get hold of a good soldering iron:
1. Drain coolant below the level of the hole, mop up excess coolant, (ie it must stop seeping thru the hole).
2. Remove any surrounding oxidation and the factory paint using fine-med emerycloth/sand paper and apply electrical solder (normal stuff w embedded flux) with hot iron (the hotter the better)
3. Refill coolant and follow your engine's procedure to bleed the air, pressure test and drive (I suggest pullig over to check a few times rather than let it leak any).
Works really well if a spanner slips and you damage a tube. Did this on an e30- so far lasted 2 years in the Australian heat... towed a caravan... still seems good, so it might even be worth painting the repair area for lengevity... :)
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