I did it - rebuilt a 5hp24

[Bimmer Nut Ed]

I did it, I did it. It even works. I rebuilt the 5hp24 in my 2001 740iL.

I took my time and rebuilt it over many weekend over the summer. Wasn't in a hurry as it really is our winter driver.

It has 155k miles on it, it really did not need a rebuild. The only symptom was a little bit of a shutter sometimes when shifting into second gear.

I took the tranny apart, and found essentially no wear. The clutches looked fine, no torn seals, and even the reverse plunger had no chunks taken out of it as seen on other posts.

It's actually an easy job, taking the tranny out, and putting it back in is the difficult part.

Took my time, rebuilt a group/drum pack at a time, lined up the clutches, and it all snapped back together. I only replaced all the seals and clutches, that's it. I did not even open up the valve body. I figured I could always do that from under the car without having to pull the tranny.

Here's a slideshow. The slideshow came out weird, you have to go backwards to see the forward progression. Oh well.

http://bimmernut.com/5hp24show/

[ryan roopnarine]

Good for you. It is a nice feeling when you know that you accomplished something like that, despite people intoning at the outset that you are attempting brain surgery. Did you have to go back into it for any "seconds" afterward? You wouldn't be the first.

[mzarifkar]

congratulations, If you would like more practice, you can do mine :)

[whiskychaser]

Impressed!:D Have only taken one apart to see where it failed. Were there any concerns about getting any endfloat within spec.?

[Bimmer Nut Ed]

No seconds really. Just had to reinsert drums a couple times to get that last 1/4 inch click on aligning clutch disks.

No more practice please, I like doing things like this one time, the second time it becomes "work".

Now I want to rebuild an engine. I have not done the bottom end before. Done valve jobs, rebuild alternators, typical valley pans and oil separators. All the cooling stuff. I've done some a/c work never successful though with the a/c. I hate a/c stuff, I can fix it, but always leaks. When the a/c goes, I buy a new car. doh

[myles]

Good work. I might try to do that to mine at some stage.

[Blitzkrieg Bob]

Good job!

Where did you pick up the kit from?

[Bimmer Nut Ed]

I got the kit here:
http://www.autotransparts.com/cart.php?m=product_detail&p=730

End float, whats that? doh!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[Bimmer Nut Ed]

OK, end float, I found this so I know what you are talking about.
http://www.bimmernut.com/forum/showthread.php?t=41900&highlight=end+float

Well, I'm hoping I don't have a problem. When I lined up the torque converter and tranny, I did have some problem with the TC binding on the flywheel, but I backed out the tranny and was able to to turn the torque converter, to get it to a point where things seem to fit together with no binding. Car is driving fine, so I am hopeful all is well.

[Bimmer Nut Ed]

Another little something I found on the net. I guess I lucked out big time. I did not think the TC installation was as big a deal as I now read.

Important Torque Converter Installation Tips

1) PREPARE THE CRANKSHAFT AND CONVERTER FOR INSTALLATION a) always check crankshaft for burrs and out of round b) remove rust with emery and lightly grease pocket c) remove paint from converter crank pilot with emery d) pour one quart of ATF into the converter e) check the flex plate for cracks and worn teeth f) install the converter on front of the transmission

2) CHECK CONVERTER TO FLEX PLATE ALIGNMENT a) after bell housing bolts are tight, then check free movement of converter. It should have 1/16 to 1/8" of clearance between pads on converter and flex plate. If you have more than 1/16 to 1/8", install equal thickness washers to reduce clearance to 1/16 to 1/8". If not enough clearance, remove transmission and check to see if converter is seated in front pump properly. b) draw converter bolts up evenly so as not to pull converter into a bind causing vibration and pump bushing failure. c) if vibration occurs after installation, mark converter to flex plate and rotate the converter one bolt hole at a time.

3) The number 1 cause of vibration is failure to prepare the crankshaft for installation. Each time the converter is installed without sanding out the crankshaft rust, removing the paint from converter pilot and adding a little grease the converter may be drawn up crooked with the first bolt, causing the converter to run-out and usually ruining the pump bushing. The 2nd most common complaint on converters is a whine after installation. This usually means too much clearance between converter pads and flex plate. This draws the converter hub too far out of the pump drive gear causing the gear to rock

[genphreak]

Thanks for sharing your project with us, they are terrific pics and show the care one has to take! I've read BillR's postings and Sean and Johan's e32 pages which relate mainly to ZF4HP22EHs, so this was relly interesting.

Did the kit's instructions help enough apart from the TC-line-up/tolerances issue later on? It'd be really good to make a section on the site for Auto Trans rebuilds, and really get the knowledge out there for all those with the time to fix dodgey trans behaviours.

It'd be really cool if everyone could be fixing trans problems themselves instead of having to re-mortgage the house and/or run the workshop gauntlet...

[Bimmer Nut Ed]

I did not follow any instructions other than:
http://www.bimmerboard.com/forums/posts/490896

Really it's just a put it back together the same way you took it apart project. Plus lots of patience.

Oh, I seen this as well:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/27318169@N00/with/763455730/

You have to love the Internet.

[Tiger]

Thanks for the link! They got great prices and I bookmarked them.

[Tiger]

I am glad you got it right. I tried to fix my MB tranny 15 years ago and did not have success... I did fix my first gear slippage problem but it only stays in first gear... trans shop won't help so ended up buying rebuilt tranny.

If I had to do it again, I would. I heard ZF tranny is much easier to work with... don't know. Only what Kirt told me... he said MB tranny valve body is yuck... LOL.

[shogun]

Great pics, thanks.

Here is something worth to read I copied from Bimmerboard;

740 tranny problems
Author: rv8flyboy Posted on: 2009-09-13


For some time now, our 740 has been throwing Trans Prog errors at random, then finally, all the time. Now that we had a repeatable event we connected DIS and ran through the test procedures. DIS is great, it tells you what to do and what to expect.

DIS noted that the output sensor in the 5HP30 was not giving us pulses, we measured the resistance of sensors, there are 2, on the EGS connector. The input sensor was around 350 ohms, the output sensor at 1500 ohms, they should be between 280 and 350 or so.

we dropped the oil pan to remove the bad sensor when, lo and behold there is a loose bold and the output sensor is kinda dangling in the hole.... well now, da's no good!! removed the senor from the connector, measure it, 360 ohms, close enough for me, hooked it back up, checked on the EGS connector, 1500 ohms. We had already measured from the tranny plug to the EGS plug and each wire came in at under 1 ohm. so the wiring outside the tranny was good.

so off the sensor came again, tightened the contacts on the connector inside the tranny and tried again, 360 on the EGS connector, great, buttoned all back together, and filled it back up with oil. HURRAY for the dip stick tube i added at a previous event!! now THAT made filling the tranny a snap.

started the car, ran DIS, all seems to be back in working order!!

so, for all of u out there who are experiencing random tranny problems, the solution may just be a simple one of bad contacts or a backed off bolt allowing the sensor to pull away far enough that the readings becomes erratic!!..

[Tiger]

Great tip... thanks!

[Ross]

Congrats. Lots of courage tearing into a (for the most part) working autobox.
Something I'll add for those who want to try this. Have a long, clean workbench to lay it all out on.
Ed, did you soak the clutches in ATF? Curious because I forgot the first time and the first few shifts resulted in a horrible "squak" as the trans. builders call it. All was well after a few times but definately an "Oh, no" moment.

[whiskychaser]

OK, end float, I found this so I know what you are talking about.
http://www.bimmernut.com/forum/showthread.php?t=41900&highlight=end+float

Well, I'm hoping I don't have a problem. When I lined up the torque converter and tranny, I did have some problem with the TC binding on the flywheel, but I backed out the tranny and was able to to turn the torque converter, to get it to a point where things seem to fit together with no binding. Car is driving fine, so I am hopeful all is well.
Actually I didnt mean that end float:D Just curious if you had to check any tolerances and use different shims to take up any 'slack'. Great work and fantastic pics!

[Bill R.]

For future reference, if you need the manuals to rebuild the zf transmissions, there is a ATSG torrent floating around on the nets that covers most of the earlier zf models up to around 2000.... not that i would condone file sharing:)

[eaglecomm]

Let me know if you are looking for an M62TU to rebuild. :-) I have one sitting in my garage. My old engine from my 2000 740iL has a spun rod bearing. Its been sitting on an engine hoist since late last year. Some day I will get to it.. and in the meantime I have to figure out what the word rebuild means. :-D

[BennyM]

Even after all these great pictures, I still have no idea how a transmission works.

Color me impressed!

[shogun]

http://www.jagrepair.com/images/AutoRepairPhotos/ZF%205HP24%201%20Repair%20Manual.pdf
BMW/JAGUAR ZF5HP24
“A” CLUTCH DRUM FAILURE

Complaint:
A vehicle with a ZF5HP24 comes in with a complaint of little or no movement forward,reverse is good.
Upon disassembly of the transmission the “A” Clutch drum is found to be broken at the clutch pack retaining snap ring (Refer to Figure 1) and the snap ring has come out of the drum.
The technician replaced the drum with the updated part only to have it come back with the same complaint and the same broken drum.

Cause:
The drum is breaking in the snap ring area due to un-commanded pressure spikes. There is an updated pressure regulator valve (See Figure 2) which could help the situation as long as the valve bore is not worn. The pressure spikes can still occur and are caused by wear in the pressure regulator valve bore in the lower front valve body, Refer to Figure 3.

Correction:
Using the part numbers found under Service Information, replace the pressure regulator valve and the lower front valve body.

Service Information:
Updated “A” Clutch Drum.................................1058-270-040
Updated Pressure Regulator Valve.....................1058-327-030
Lower Front Valve Body...................................1058-327-022

http://jagrepair.com/images/AutoRepairPhotos/BMW%20ZF5HP24-1.pdf

Oversized Pressure Regulator Valve Kit
Symptoms: •B Clutch breakage
•Delayed Reverse
•Erratic line pressure
•No Reverse
•Poor shift quality

Cause: Excessive valve and bore clearance due to wear


Correction: The Sonnax oversized valve kit restores correct valve-to-bore clearances and circuit integrity as well as preventing future wear in this area.


139740-01K
•Valve
•Spring





























Wear is commonly found at different areas in the ZF5HP24 pressure regulator valve bore. Wear at the inner portion of the bore causes high pressure spikes leading to broken drums, pistons or other parts, as well as restricting converter/lubrication flow. Wear at the spring end of the bore allows line pressure to exhaust resulting in low line pressure, soft shifts and burnt clutches. The Sonnax oversized pressure regulator valve kit 139740-01K restores valve-to-bore clearances so the pressure regulator valve can maintain correct pressures.
•Annular oil grooves support the valve and reduce wear rate.
•Restores valve-to-bore clearances maintaining correct pressures.

http://www.sonnax.com/parts/1767

http://www.sonnax.com/resources

[bimmer nut]

BTW, Since this old thread was revived, I went ahead and fixed the slide show of the rebuild I did on that first post baxk in 2009 - http://bimmernut.com/5hp24show/

Hey, that tranny is still running fine. 200k+ miles!

[Rustam]

BTW, Since this old thread was revived, I went ahead and fixed the slide show of the rebuild I did on that first post baxk in 2009 - http://bimmernut.com/5hp24show/

Hey, that tranny is still running fine. 200k+ miles!

Haven't looked at this yet, although did try to earlier, thank you for the update. Also two questions -

Did you use any formal guides on the disassembly and examination procedure?
What guides did you use for the dissasembly and examination procedure?

[bimmer nut]

Haven't looked at this yet, although did try to earlier, thank you for the update. Also two questions -

Did you use any formal guides on the disassembly and examination procedure?
What guides did you use for the dissasembly and examination procedure?

I used no formal guides. I looked at three different documented DIY jobs posted up on the Internet. It's been 5 years, prolly better ones out there by now, and besides, I don't have those links anymore. Sorry - but just now I did a quick google search (on "5hp24 rebuild") and there looks like there are some good ones out there.

[shogun]

Repair manuals for $20 http://www.autoepcs.com/zf-service-repair-c-27_117.html

Here are also good pics inside, E39 5HP18 valve body repair http://forum.roadfly.com/threads/13172034-Project-23-ZF-5HP18-Transmission-Valve-Body-Overhaul-DIY-Part-1

[Rustam]

I used no formal guides. I looked at three different documented DIY jobs posted up on the Internet. It's been 5 years, prolly better ones out there by now, and besides, I don't have those links anymore. Sorry - but just now I did a quick google search (on "5hp24 rebuild") and there looks like there are some good ones out there.

Thank you for the help

[Rustam]

Thank you, Shogun.