Removing the m30 engine

[BigKriss]

I have to replace my engine (with a second hand one from the wreckers), so is it better to remove it with the transmission attached? I have an engine hoist already.

Do I need to remove the hood?

DO i need a load leveller? I think I will get one of these?

Should I replace the headgasket while the engine is out of the car?

Thats about it for now. Thanks in advance.

Kris

[Makaveli2k]

Yes you need to remove the hood. I'm sure there is probably a way to get around it but it certainly does make life easier.

A load leveler isn't really necessary, but one again it makes life easier. I've personally never used one and have gotten by just fine. Only thing you have to worry about is when lifting the engine with the hoist the transmission or rear end of the motor will tip down so you've got to navigate that by force.

If you feel it's necessary to replace than while the motor is out would definitely be easier. It will also provide you with piece of mind. So if you're even thinking about it, I'd say do it.

[BigKriss]

Okay thanks for that. cheers mate.

[yaofeng]

Don't know how much difference is between M50 and M30. On the M50, if you drop the cross member and the sway bar you can lift the engine and the transmission in one piece and it is much easier that way than separating the gearbox from the engine first. The leveler is helpful but not absolutely essential. If you do not have a leveler you just need to hook the chain preferentially toward the front of the engine so the drive train tilts up coming out.

[Ross]

The leveler will make life a bunch easier if you intend to remove the engine and trans together.

[Dash01]

See my tranny problems post.

You absolutely want to remove the engine and tranny as a unit, still bolted together. I wish I had. Seemingly, it would be easier to just take out the engine, saving myself the trouble of disconnecting the propeller shaft and exhaust, etc.. That's the theory.

In truth, if you separate the two, then try and put them back together in the car, you will have trouble getting to the 11 perimeter bolts on the bellhousing, which in itself makes separating the engine from tranny off the car worthwhile. Access to such bolts turned out to be the least of my problems.

Sadly, there are other issues, such as potential damage to the torque converter and/or tranny pump, which can happen either/both during separation of the engine from tranny or upon rejoining them.

Far better, and less work in the long run, to remove them as a unit, then separate them once the TC is secured and you have access to the bellhousing bolts. You'll also have better access to properly retorque those bolts when out of the car.

Using a leveler is a wonderful idea, as is removing the radiator and hood, neither of which takes much effort.

[shogun]

get a leveler, not expensive and helps a lot to make it easier. When I last time pulled out the M70 with trans from a parts car, I always had to adjust the level to get it out, otherwise easy to get it stuck or not moving
http://s71.photobucket.com/albums/i155/shogun_bucket/?action=view&current=img010.jpg

[BigKriss]

okay thanks guys, i ordered this load leveller

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/1500KG-ENGINE-LOAD-LEVELLER-PROFESSIONAL-HEAVY-DUTY-NEW_W0QQitemZ250500441721QQcmdZViewItemQQptZAU_Car _Parts_Accessories?hash=item3a52fd6679&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14

Should I drain the auto trans fluid also, since it will evenutally come off the engine, or do I just do that later?

[shogun]

in my opinion no need. Just plug the connections from the trans oil cooler which you have to disconnect with some wine corks or whatever fits, later when it is out you can do that draining much easier. And the fluid from the torque converter you can get out anyway only when it is removed.

[BigKriss]

okay thanks for that Erich.


in my opinion no need. Just plug the connections from the trans oil cooler which you have to disconnect with some wine corks or whatever fits, later when it is out you can do that draining much easier. And the fluid from the torque converter you can get out anyway only when it is removed.

[genphreak]

That engine looks just fine Kriss. Just check to see which cams are best and don't get the rockers out of order when/if you pull them off. Inspect for smooth cam lobes, M30s are bad for that so you want to install the best of both cams if one is no good.

Best to avoid changing the head if you can, no? That one is probably just fine.

Carb cleaner will fix up the sludge, soak it overnight and then do it again in the morning and it'll be sparkly, jus be sure to check the spray bars spurt oil properly too, but if bad the cam will show wear.

Be sure to swap the trans once the engine is out and get that procedure online as bently is not good on that and you need to feel/measuer the mating process that many have had to learn. Be sure to have new 4 bolts for connecting the manifold-engine pipes and make sure the surfaces are clean so ou get no leak.

I'll try to come by next weekend, this one is stuffed :)

[BigKriss]

Okay I did a bit of work today swapping over parts from the old to the new engine. One question is do I get a new gasket between the engines bellhousing and the transmission?

Like seen part number 21 - http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=HD22&mospid=47382&btnr=24_0508&hg=24&fg=15

I had some leaking from the auto trans and I bought a shaft seal a while ago, I'll be installing this while the trans is off the car (part 9) - http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=HD22&mospid=47382&btnr=24_0744&hg=24&fg=15&hl=18

Is there anything else I should purchase while the trans and engine are off the car?

More pics here; http://picasaweb.google.com/Kristianandlily/DropBox?authkey=Gv1sRgCLWlyOncw8Gj_AE#

I also drilled a hole (9/64") in the thermostat to aid in bleeding the air out of the engine once it get running again.

I wont replace the heakgasket now. I'm just going to change the oil more regulary than usuall to remove the gunk buildup in the clyinder head.

cheers

[ryan roopnarine]

21 looks like your output shaft gasket. not something you have to change unless you have a leak coming from the output flange area. my m50 had a big-ass metal ring that went around the bellhousing, i doubt that you ever have to replace it. does your rear main seal look ok on the transplant motor?



Okay I did a bit of work today swapping over parts from the old to the new engine. One question is do I get a new gasket between the engines bellhousing and the transmission?

Like seen part number 21 - http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=HD22&mospid=47382&btnr=24_0508&hg=24&fg=15

I had some leaking from the auto trans and I bought a shaft seal a while ago, I'll be installing this while the trans is off the car (part 9) - http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=HD22&mospid=47382&btnr=24_0744&hg=24&fg=15&hl=18

Is there anything else I should purchase while the trans and engine are off the car?

More pics here; http://picasaweb.google.com/Kristianandlily/DropBox?authkey=Gv1sRgCLWlyOncw8Gj_AE#

I also drilled a hole (9/64") in the thermostat to aid in bleeding the air out of the engine once it get running again.

I wont replace the heakgasket now. I'm just going to change the oil more regulary than usuall to remove the gunk buildup in the clyinder head.

cheers

[whiskychaser]

Maybe a new TC oil seal?

[Jeff N.]

ah...the old motor swap.

My only suggestion is to hang as many of the parts as possible onto the motor before you install it. First motor I did I made the mistake of putting in just the long block bare and then putting in all the parts while it was in the motor box. Fail.

Next time, hung every part possible on the engine while the lift. Much easier on the back and faster too.

BTW - leveler = good.

For a manual, easier to put the tranny on from under the car. Can't speak to the auto.

I'd do the head gasket while it's out. Soooooo easy. No fluids to mess with, just TDC the motor, undo the manifolds, the front cover and cam gear and pop the head off. Do a little cleaning and pop it back together.

First install

http://home.comcast.net/~jsnord/pics/motorswap1.JPG

Second install

http://home.comcast.net/~jsnord/pics/motorswap.jpg

[BigKriss]

Okay, thanks for the comments Jeff.

[icesoft]

We managed to leave the hood on to pull the motor out of the car in the 'U-Pull-It' yard where I bought my spare motor. We had already pulled the transmission on a previous visit.

The yardie with the big tow-motor had no problem pulling the engine out with all accessories and harness attached (but disconnected from the car body) and hood still on the car, and didn't hit or tear up anything whilst doing it. Just slid the chain over the fork and lifted it out. :D

[Kibokojoe]

Modify that oiler tube and lock down those oiler tube bolts.

Here is the post for the lock down clips
http://www.bimmernut.com/forum/showthread.php?t=40710

There are pics and dimensional drawings

Here is the tube mod page

http://images.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://www.sehlin.com/cscoupe/tech/spray_bar_fix/Dscn1690.jpg&imgrefurl=http://www.sehlin.com/cscoupe/tech/spray_bar_fix/70590.html&usg=__-ikJ3fKQBWplbHfh4eZDmfmq1lU=&h=357&w=530&sz=136&hl=en&start=61&um=1&tbnid=p-BbNMYAB0o8nM:&tbnh=89&tbnw=132&prev=/images%3Fq%3Dm30%2Bvalve%2Btube%26ndsp%3D20%26hl%3 Den%26safe%3Dactive%26sa%3DN%26start%3D60%26um%3D1

[BigKriss]

Funny you should mention that, the new (used) engine had one banjo bolt almost completly come out. I put some red locktite on them both and screw them back in again. But the bar mod I wont be doing.


Modify that oiler tube and lock down those oiler tube bolts.

Here is the post for the lock down clips
http://www.bimmernut.com/forum/showthread.php?t=40710

There are pics and dimensional drawings

Here is the tube mod page

http://images.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://www.sehlin.com/cscoupe/tech/spray_bar_fix/Dscn1690.jpg&imgrefurl=http://www.sehlin.com/cscoupe/tech/spray_bar_fix/70590.html&usg=__-ikJ3fKQBWplbHfh4eZDmfmq1lU=&h=357&w=530&sz=136&hl=en&start=61&um=1&tbnid=p-BbNMYAB0o8nM:&tbnh=89&tbnw=132&prev=/images%3Fq%3Dm30%2Bvalve%2Btube%26ndsp%3D20%26hl%3 Den%26safe%3Dactive%26sa%3DN%26start%3D60%26um%3D1

[Kibokojoe]

Although red locktite is some good stuff I have heard that unless you physically restrain the bolt it will work it way back out.

[BigKriss]

I have Don Gales banjo bolt kit on the other cylinder head. I will probably move them over since you mention it.


Although red locktite is some good stuff I have heard that unless you physically restrain the bolt it will work it way back out.

I still haven't removed the engine yet. I can only work in on the weekend and Ive been busy with other things.

[BigKriss]

I'm almost there guys, I think tomorrow I will have it out

http://picasaweb.google.com/Kristianandlily/DropBox?authkey=Gv1sRgCLWlyOncw8Gj_AE#539613004586 5319730

This is the last piece to the puzzle, a cable that attaches itself to the auto trans. Any help with this item,

http://picasaweb.google.com/Kristianandlily/DropBox?authkey=Gv1sRgCLWlyOncw8Gj_AE#539613033539 7705938

if not I will consult the Bently manual and have a go with it tomorrow. cheers :)

[whiskychaser]

This is the last piece to the puzzle, a cable that attaches itself to the auto trans. Any help with this item,

http://picasaweb.google.com/Kristianandlily/DropBox?authkey=Gv1sRgCLWlyOncw8Gj_AE#539613033539 7705938

if not I will consult the Bently manual and have a go with it tomorrow. cheers :)
To avoid putting a kink in the cable, put an open ended spanner on the nut behind the lever and a socket on the front. Use two open ended spanners to slacken the lock nut on the bracket. The end will then hang loose. The cable runs in a couple of hook-like brackets on the tranny so watch it doesnt get snagged when you move the tranny. HTH
PS Put it in park and remember position of the operating arm at the other end. IIRC it will be pushed fully towards the front

[ArnZ!]

Yeh put it in park inside the cabin.

Then go underneath and that lever on the side of the auto needs to be pushed towards the front of the car,

The gearbox should now correspond with the gear selected in the cabin.

[BigKriss]

Hi guys, I'm trying to pull the engine out today but the right hand side is not lifting with the left hand side meaning I'm lifting the engine and the left hand side is mocing up my very very little on the left hand side. nothing is caught there seems to be more weight on the left hand side?

so any help here.

I'm got some pics located here. http://picasaweb.google.com/Kristianandlily/DropBox?authkey=Gv1sRgCLWlyOncw8Gj_AE# - look at the last few

[ryan roopnarine]

the side with the headers is always going to be a bitch to come up in comparison to the intake manifold side. you just have to deal with it accordingly.

[genphreak]

I think you need a chain around the exhaust side, the engine could turn over once it is raised otherwise...

[BigKriss]

Yeah thanks guys I finally got it out. It took a good few hours

http://picasaweb.google.com/Kristianandlily/DropBox?authkey=Gv1sRgCLWlyOncw8Gj_AE&pli=1&gsessionid=-xM4HA8tQEDaJMCG8GqZyg#5398654436348963906