Hey JR....

[Bill R.]

I finally got around to changing the trans fluid in the e46
5hp19 steptronic like yours.. It took about 5.5 quarts when i pulled the pan and changed the filter, then drain and fill changes of 3.5 quarts each time until it was clean.
The pan and magnets were suprisingly clean but the fluid was black .. It took around 15 quarts total until the fluid came out red. When filling it the maximum fluid temp is 122F with the fill plug out and that came really quickly

[Jr ///M5]

I've heard that it is less than 5 minutes idling time to get the temperature up. I believe I've found a fluid that is compatable with the ESSO, it's made by Pentosin and runs between 10- 15 dollars a quart. Now that we own the E60 and now it has 100k miles on it, I'll be changing the fluid in the spring. What I'm not thrilled about is the fact that the filter is integrated into the pan. Change the filter, change the pan, get your wallet out 'cause it's 2 bills, that's just the filter!!! Coupled with about $300 worth of fluid and it's a $500 DIY.

It's cold here, bitter cold. Minus 6 degrees this morning. The important fluid to check in these parts was the coolant in Aubrey's 318iS and Lori's E60. They are now both protected down to -34 and if it gets that cold around here, you better move over, 'cause here I come! =)

The E60 left Lori stranded about a month ago. The cyclone valve or PCV froze/failed and unlike the E39 when this happened, it decided to start emptying the oil sump into the combustion chambers....she noticed smoke pouring out the exhaust, called me and said there wasn't any lights on, and I told her to pull over and shut it down immediately. The tow company rescued her and the car was soon inside the garage. She was about an hour away when it happened. Keep in mind that the car has 100k miles on it now, the E39 failed at 153k miles. The car had about 3 1/2 quarts of oil left in it, I can now see how people lock their motors up. It takes me about 6 hours to change the valve and all the hoses and do the oil change and clean the plugs off. New plugs were installed after the work was done because you have to drive the car about 50 miles at high rpm and temperature to burn out the oil in the exhaust. You should have seen it, just like a mosquito fogger. I couldn't see behind me, it was that bad.
If you do a search on "cyclone valve" you can read the horror stories that others have experienced and repair bills from the dealer ranging from $800 to $7000 for a new engine. Cost to DIY is around $200 for all the parts. In your area where temperatures are not as much as a factor, the valves still fail as they dry rot. I believe this should be a 60k mile maintenance item. BMW has redesigned the valve, the dipstick tube and hoses with an insulated kit that is supposed to help, my X5 already came from the factory with the insulated variety, but that is not insurance that it won't fail too, just a deterrent. Others have already experienced failure of the new type, especially in Canada where temperatures are often -20. It seems that these engines do not run hot enough in the cold to burn off condensate that developes on short trips. I opened the oil filler cap on the X5 and used a paper towel to dab around the inside and it soaked the towel with condensated water.

I don't know what the answer is to this problem, neither does BMW, as they are not assuming any liability for failure of this valve. Whatever happened to the simplicity of the old style PCV valve that would rattle? Oh yes, it was replaced with some plastic and a rubber diaphram, and let's cram it underneath the intake manifold where you can't even see the damn thing. There is a way to check the operation of the valve, but it requires a manometer to check crankcase pressures. Problem is, it can work one day and fail the next. Keep an eye on yours, and if your valve cover suddenly blows off, spilling oil all over the exhaust, and filling the cabin with smoke, or you look in the rear view mirror and can't see the guy behind you. That is when you know the valve has had catastrophic failure.

[Tiger]

Damn... that's scary that a PCV valve will kill the engine! I wondered if it is possible to put some sort of engine heater on that thing to prevent it from failing... like engine block heater thing but keeps running with low voltage so it doesn't melt anything.

[Bill R.]

Jr, what year and model is your e60, if its a 2004 530 with the 6 speed auto zf6hp19 then you can find the pan/filter for around 140 and the castrol import atf claims to meet Shell M-1375.4 specs which is the fluid for that trans.... Its 4.59 a quart at autozone.





I've heard that it is less than 5 minutes idling time to get the temperature up. I believe I've found a fluid that is compatable with the ESSO, it's made by Pentosin and runs between 10- 15 dollars a quart. Now that we own the E60 and now it has 100k miles on it, I'll be changing the fluid in the spring. What I'm not thrilled about is the fact that the filter is integrated into the pan. Change the filter, change the pan, get your wallet out 'cause it's 2 bills, that's just the filter!!! Coupled with about $300 worth of fluid and it's a $500 DIY.

It's cold here, bitter cold. Minus 6 degrees this morning. The important fluid to check in these parts was the coolant in Aubrey's 318iS and Lori's E60. They are now both protected down to -34 and if it gets that cold around here, you better move over, 'cause here I come! =)

The E60 left Lori stranded about a month ago. The cyclone valve or PCV froze/failed and unlike the E39 when this happened, it decided to start emptying the oil sump into the combustion chambers....she noticed smoke pouring out the exhaust, called me and said there wasn't any lights on, and I told her to pull over and shut it down immediately. The tow company rescued her and the car was soon inside the garage. She was about an hour away when it happened. Keep in mind that the car has 100k miles on it now, the E39 failed at 153k miles. The car had about 3 1/2 quarts of oil left in it, I can now see how people lock their motors up. It takes me about 6 hours to change the valve and all the hoses and do the oil change and clean the plugs off. New plugs were installed after the work was done because you have to drive the car about 50 miles at high rpm and temperature to burn out the oil in the exhaust. You should have seen it, just like a mosquito fogger. I couldn't see behind me, it was that bad.
If you do a search on "cyclone valve" you can read the horror stories that others have experienced and repair bills from the dealer ranging from $800 to $7000 for a new engine. Cost to DIY is around $200 for all the parts. In your area where temperatures are not as much as a factor, the valves still fail as they dry rot. I believe this should be a 60k mile maintenance item. BMW has redesigned the valve, the dipstick tube and hoses with an insulated kit that is supposed to help, my X5 already came from the factory with the insulated variety, but that is not insurance that it won't fail too, just a deterrent. Others have already experienced failure of the new type, especially in Canada where temperatures are often -20. It seems that these engines do not run hot enough in the cold to burn off condensate that developes on short trips. I opened the oil filler cap on the X5 and used a paper towel to dab around the inside and it soaked the towel with condensated water.

I don't know what the answer is to this problem, neither does BMW, as they are not assuming any liability for failure of this valve. Whatever happened to the simplicity of the old style PCV valve that would rattle? Oh yes, it was replaced with some plastic and a rubber diaphram, and let's cram it underneath the intake manifold where you can't even see the damn thing. There is a way to check the operation of the valve, but it requires a manometer to check crankcase pressures. Problem is, it can work one day and fail the next. Keep an eye on yours, and if your valve cover suddenly blows off, spilling oil all over the exhaust, and filling the cabin with smoke, or you look in the rear view mirror and can't see the guy behind you. That is when you know the valve has had catastrophic failure.

[Jr ///M5]

So you changed the filter first and then did at least 2 more drains and fills? RM European has the filter for $145 and Pentosin for $16 a quart. It takes 9.5 quarts to do a complete change for the 6 speed.
http://www.rmeuropean.com/Part-Number/ATF-Auto-Transmission-Fluid-(1-Liter)-Equivalent-to--Shell-M-13754-__83220142516_PEN_9BA48850.aspx

What kind of fluid did you end up using? How's the car shifting now? I'm kind of apprehensive about using the Castrol, although it is tempting due to costs.

[Tiger]

JR, you haven't been with this forum as long as I did. When my tranny had a problem back in 2001. There was no alternative for LA2634 except Pennzoil Multi-Vehicle ATF which I discovered. I was not willing to fork over $30 a quart nor even the ESSO $17 a quart.

I went ahead and filled the tranny with Pennzoil because Pennzoil said it is compatible... Pennzoil is owned by Shell and both LA2634 and Pennzoil is semi-synthetic. I filled it up along with valve body rebuild.

Zero problem... even 9 years later... I remember BillR was very adamant about not trying the Pennzoil out... I went ahead and did it. Not too long after, Castrol came out with Euro Multi-Vehicle and Asian Multi-vehicle ATF... and that is when BillR switched over.

I'll let BillR tell you the rest.

[Bill R.]

Yep, I changed the filter, cleaned the pan out and all 8 magnets, (actually had Yvonne clean the magnets out.) and then installed. Initial fill after removing pan and filter was 5.5 to 6 quarts roughly, then started it and ran through the gears , let idle a couple of minutes, shut it down and drained it.

Since i only did an initial fill, it only took 3.5 quarts approx for each additional drain and fill.
I did that 3 times until it looked clean. Right around 15 quarts total. Then i did the final fill with it running at 115F fluid temp.

I ended up using the castrol import atf. I've done a number of e39's and e46's with no problems so i thought it was safe to do my own.

An attachment here for the fluid requirement for your e60 and another for castrols tech data sheet showing its suitable for shell m1375.4

[genphreak]

Hahhaha...

"filling the cabin with smoke, or you look in the rear view mirror and can't see the guy behind you"

... sure that wasn't Winfred going WOT in the truck in front?

(Sounds like a pesky valve that, some n00b's idea of an engeineering improvement) maybe e39 M50 owners should keep a spare.

[Jr ///M5]

How many miles on the E46 before you changed the fluid? Do you have a plug in somewhere that you took the temperature? I know the temperature is critical, what's the best way, maybe a meat thermometer stuck in the fill hole? =)

[Bill R.]

It had 65k on it, which is a lot longer than i should have ....my fault for not changing it sooner.

I used my scan tool to measure the temp, it has a atf temp sensor reading on it.

Before i had this scan tool i used to use a infrared thermometer and measure the bottom of the pan, i added a couple of degrees for heat loss , it worked fine out here
Where your at it might not work so well with ambients so cold.





How many miles on the E46 before you changed the fluid? Do you have a plug in somewhere that you took the temperature? I know the temperature is critical, what's the best way, maybe a meat thermometer stuck in the fill hole? =)

[Jr ///M5]

Bill, in your professional opinion (which I value very much) do you think that the highway miles that Lori puts on the E60 is less of a strain on the transmission? Remembering that the roads here are flat, and she drives about 3 miles before she hits the interstate.

The M54 used in the E60 doesn't use a conventional fan and clutch for cooling, an electric fan does the work. Last night when she got home she said that her heater didn't seem to work. I suspected a faulty thermostat and a quick feel of the hoses confirmed that. I had previously ordered a water pump, thermostat, coolant and belts to have on hand if needed, but was wanting to see how long the original would last under highway miles. I tore into it right away and found the belts were still perfect, not a trace of cracking anywhere, the water pump was still good, but the thermostat had failed in the open position, as typical plastic units do in extreme cold weather, it was 0 degrees outside, and a quick look under the oil filler cap showed condensate from running a cool engine for the 60 mile drive home. My thoughts on this was that preventive maintenance calls for us to change the water pump and belts at 60k miles, but what I'm wondering is if the electric fan removes the shock from the system from the fan clutch engaging and disengaging the fan thus allowing longer mileage from belts and pumps driven without a traditional fan and clutch system.

When I do change the transmission fluid I'll certainly note the condition of the fluid, but often wonder if a different maintenance schedule is called for because of highway miles.

JR

[Bill R.]

Jr, i would definitely say that highway miles are going to put less strain on the transmission.... It has a lockup converter and if she's just cruising then its locked up just like a manual, less wear on parts and the fluid isn't going to get worked as hard either





Bill, in your professional opinion (which I value very much) do you think that the highway miles that Lori puts on the E60 is less of a strain on the transmission? Remembering that the roads here are flat, and she drives about 3 miles before she hits the interstate.

The M54 used in the E60 doesn't use a conventional fan and clutch for cooling, an electric fan does the work. Last night when she got home she said that her heater didn't seem to work. I suspected a faulty thermostat and a quick feel of the hoses confirmed that. I had previously ordered a water pump, thermostat, coolant and belts to have on hand if needed, but was wanting to see how long the original would last under highway miles. I tore into it right away and found the belts were still perfect, not a trace of cracking anywhere, the water pump was still good, but the thermostat had failed in the open position, as typical plastic units do in extreme cold weather, it was 0 degrees outside, and a quick look under the oil filler cap showed condensate from running a cool engine for the 60 mile drive home. My thoughts on this was that preventive maintenance calls for us to change the water pump and belts at 60k miles, but what I'm wondering is if the electric fan removes the shock from the system from the fan clutch engaging and disengaging the fan thus allowing longer mileage from belts and pumps driven without a traditional fan and clutch system.

When I do change the transmission fluid I'll certainly note the condition of the fluid, but often wonder if a different maintenance schedule is called for because of highway miles.

JR