Done with M60 engine mounts replacement job

[bimmo_2007]

Yesterday, I decided to tackle the engine mounts on my 540i, it wasnt really that terrible job, it took me about 45 minutes per side. I followed the write-ups here.
The old after market mounts(Corteco) looked compressed but not too bad after more than 60K miles on it, however the difference was amazing and believe it or not, the steering now feels much smoother than it used to be and-steering wheel stuck at certain point- has completely gone.

[yaofeng]

Your hands must be small. How did you manage to do the driver side for 45 minutes? How did you get the top nut on the mount off?

[bubba966]

Your hands must be small. How did you manage to do the driver side for 45 minutes? How did you get the top nut on the mount off?

+1

I need to do this. I've had new mounts & nuts for a while sitting there, waiting for me to change them out. Keep hearing how the drivers side sucks. Would love to know a 45 minute method.

Any fancy tools used?

[bimmo_2007]

Your hands must be small. How did you manage to do the driver side for 45 minutes? How did you get the top nut on the mount off?

I didn't need to insert my hands in all the way in :D, I used a u joint, 2 feet long extensions and spring universal joint, pointed with a flash light towards the upper nut while positioning the socket.
I attached the nut to the socket with some grease in re-installation, repositioned the upper nut (one hand catching the flash light, the extesions and socket with the other) and that's it:)
btw my car came with the big (steering fluid/ASC) canister which sits next to the main (fuses/relays) box which in turn gives more space to position the extensions and the socket.

My hands annoyed me a lot in that tight area:D

Here is the steps I followed(driver side):
1- Remove the fan shround, brake fluid reservoir tank, air intake box, and loosen the coolant reservoir tank.
2- Put the car on ramp and remove the bottom engine cover and loosen the 2 bottom nuts on the driver side mount.
3- Now start lifting the engine from the very right hand side(driver side) for about 2 inches(pump the jack twice and check from above to see if the joints,etc. is not tight).
4- If you look now on it from the top of the engine you can barely see the top nut, you can use a LED flash light(like I did) to see it and locate it.
5- Now here is the trick. All you need to access the top nut is a U joint, extensions making about 2 feet long, 17mm socket and spring universal joint.
6- Loosen the top nut and remove the driver side mount from beneath.
7- installation is the reverse of removal.

[bimmo_2007]

+1

I need to do this. I've had new mounts & nuts for a while sitting there, waiting for me to change them out. Keep hearing how the drivers side sucks. Would love to know a 45 minute method.

Any fancy tools used?

I've had the new mounts sitting on the back seat for several weeks too:p, but then decided to take the challenge. Trust me it's not that big deal, follow the steps I did and you'll get in there.

Good luck!

[bubba966]

Sounds easy enough. But I'm not 100% sure what you mean by a "spring universal joint". I've got everything else though.

I've had these parts sitting in the trunk for longer than a few weeks...

[bimmo_2007]

Sounds easy enough. But I'm not 100% sure what you mean by a "spring universal joint". I've got everything else though.

I've had these parts sitting in the trunk for longer than a few weeks...

This is the spring universal joint. I'll take some shots for my engine tommorow and send it to you, it could help you. I have many things left in the trunk:)

[bubba966]

Ok, so that's a new one to me. What's the spring do for you that a standard U joint doesn't? Where in the chain does the spring U joint go? Is it socket/U joint/2' extension/spring U joint/ratchet or socket/spring U joint/2' extension/U joint/ratchet, or some other combination?

And lastly where does one find such a tool? I've got a lot of not so standard tools, and seen a few more, but haven't ever seen such a thing before.

[yaofeng]

Thanks for the tip. Fortunately I only have to do once and I used a stubby ratchet, with the oil level housing loosened. It was tough. That was during the 6 speed srive train install.

The next time when I moved the 6 speed drive train over to the 530it last November I tightened the top nut ahead of time with the mount on the engine. Then I dropped the engine to tighten the bottom nuts.

[Ross]

This is the spring universal joint. I'll take some shots for my engine tommorow and send it to you, it could help you. I have many things left in the trunk:)

A bit of tape wrapped around a conventional swivel works pretty well also.

[bubba966]

A bit of tape wrapped around a conventional swivel works pretty well also.

So is the purpose of the spring or the tape to prevent it from binding up while you're using it?

[bimmo_2007]

Ok, so that's a new one to me. What's the spring do for you that a standard U joint doesn't? Where in the chain does the spring U joint go? Is it socket/U joint/2' extension/spring U joint/ratchet or socket/spring U joint/2' extension/U joint/ratchet, or some other combination?

And lastly where does one find such a tool? I've got a lot of not so standard tools, and seen a few more, but haven't ever seen such a thing before.

The spring prevents the joint from extra bending while you are in, yet it's still flexible. The whole chain is socket/spring U joint/2' extensions/ratchet.
I am not sure where you can find such a tool in your area, but I believe many stores have it.

[bimmo_2007]

Thanks for the tip. Fortunately I only have to do once and I used a stubby ratchet, with the oil level housing loosened. It was tough. That was during the 6 speed srive train install.

The next time when I moved the 6 speed drive train over to the 530it last November I tightened the top nut ahead of time with the mount on the engine. Then I dropped the engine to tighten the bottom nuts.

You are welcome. Yes I did the same, tightened the top nut first-after aligning the mount to the pin from beneath- then I dropped the engine to tighten the bottom nuts.

[bimmo_2007]

A bit of tape wrapped around a conventional swivel works pretty well also.

+1

Good idea, also you can use a thread seal tape.

[bimmo_2007]

So is the purpose of the spring or the tape to prevent it from binding up while you're using it?

Yes, that's right.