Thrust arms are winning....again :(

[leicesterboy15]

I had a good go at the front suspension and have hit problems all day! 2 of the 3 bolts for the steering plate were easy but the third is obstructed by the lower arm so I took the lower arm off to get access but then you can't get any leverage because the whole hub assembly moves. Luckily a friend was passing at the time so I got him to hold the wheel hub while I loosened the bolt.

I made no impression on the thrust arm bolt at all, then I realised that the nut is 22mm but the bolt is 21mm so I need to go and buy the 21. I decided to remove the sway bar to get better access, I managed to loosen the 18mm nut but the two smaller nuts are harder to get to and I need a 15mm socket which I didn't have (15mm and 21mm are the only sizes I don't have). The shops were closed so I have to wait to continue with this.

So then I moved on to the tie rods. I was going to replace the centre rod anyway and now I've realised I may as well replace the outer tie rods as well (even though only a year old) and removing this will give me more leverage space on the thrust arm bolts. The ball joints with the outer tie rods were simple but the ball joint left of centre ( looking from the front back) on the centre tie rod is very hard, there is no space for the ball joint puller, I removed the protective metal plate above but theres still not enough room to get the puller in there - although I've just been looking at realoem and it looks like this is the joint with the idler arm which I am also going to replace so I might not have to remove it - only bit of good news all day! I haven't had a look at the other ball joint yet (the one with the steering arm I think).

So I'm still none the wiser about the thrust arm bolts, I have no idea if I am ever going to get these off, I don't know how you guys do it, maybe I'm just too wet! Do you guys undo the bolt or the nut on the thrust arms?

I'll get the bits I need and try again next weekend, I might have to get some extra help even if its just for encouragement...the memories of trying this last time are flooding back :(

[whiskychaser]

I'm not sure which bolts you are stuggling with:D IIRC there are 3 that go up through the plate at the bottom of the strut. To remove the bottom arm you remove nut 15 and bolt 4:
http://www.bimmernut.com/forum/newreply.php?do=newreply&noquote=1&p=333021
The problem is probably blindingly obvious to everyone else

[leicesterboy15]

I'm not sure which bolts you are stuggling with:D IIRC there are 3 that go up through the plate at the bottom of the strut. To remove the bottom arm you remove nut 15 and bolt 4:
http://www.bimmernut.com/forum/newreply.php?do=newreply&noquote=1&p=333021
The problem is probably blindingly obvious to everyone else

That is a link to this thread! I think its an experience thing really, if you've done this many times before I guess you would go to town on these nuts more than the inexperienced (if you see what I mean!)

I've managed to loosen the bolts for the steering plate, the only problem now is centre tie rod situation and the thrust arm bolts. I've just read somewhere that you need to remove the big bolt on the sway bar plate in order to drop the cross member enough to get access to the bolt. Its a shame its gone dark, I'm dying to get out there and give it another go!!

[whiskychaser]

Oops. Said I was having trouble keeping up:D I meant 15 &4:
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=HD68&mospid=47405&btnr=31_0250&hg=31&fg=05

[e34.535i.sport]

I think I'm with you on the thrust arm pivot bolts... Mine were on tight the first time!

I'm assuming the set up is the same as mine - I got a ring spanner on the nut and a reasonable breaker bar on a socket on the bolt end and undone from there. You don't evenhave to hold the spanner that way as it will naturally hit the chassis and prevent the nut from moving so you have two hands to push on the bar :)

The other end is the balljoint which you'll need to undo and get a balljoint seperator/pickle fork on. I would never attempt this without the scissor type balljoint seperator as it makes life SO much easier! Have a look at this if you get stuck: http://www.bimmernut.com/forum/showthread.php?t=39481

[Ferret]

I think I'm with you on the thrust arm pivot bolts... Mine were on tight the first time!

I'm assuming the set up is the same as mine - I got a ring spanner on the nut and a reasonable breaker bar on a socket on the bolt end and undone from there. You don't evenhave to hold the spanner that way as it will naturally hit the chassis and prevent the nut from moving so you have two hands to push on the bar :)

The other end is the balljoint which you'll need to undo and get a balljoint seperator/pickle fork on. I would never attempt this without the scissor type balljoint seperator as it makes life SO much easier! Have a look at this if you get stuck: http://www.bimmernut.com/forum/showthread.php?t=39481

Does the OP have a -good- breaker bar?

You really need one for work like this, and it -must- be at least a meter long. Helps no end once you're starting to work on bolts 17mm and above...

[leicesterboy15]

Does the OP have a -good- breaker bar?

You really need one for work like this, and it -must- be at least a meter long. Helps no end once you're starting to work on bolts 17mm and above...

I've got a breaker bar, its about 60 cm i think, I can just about get enough clearance under the car to get it to move, any bigger and I don't think I'd have enough clearance. I had to lift one whole side of the car off the ground with a trolley jack to get the jack stands in on their second setting, I don't fancy lifting it any higher!

I agree though that a breaker bar is a must, I can extend mine with the bar from the trolley jack, this thing is the real deal....

http://www.fixandweld.com/images/3000CXD.JPG

I also bought this, I thought for £30 I'd give it a go, not expecting ground breaking performance but i figured 200nm would be enough for anything on the car...

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=260523629042&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT

I've seen the posts about buying a good one to get any success but I can't warrant spending £150 on one, I wouldn't use it enough, I saw some 24v cordless ones but thought I'd give this one a go, it looks too good to be true but they guy has good feedback and has sold a few of these.

[e34.535i.sport]

Does the OP have a -good- breaker bar?

You really need one for work like this, and it -must- be at least a meter long. Helps no end once you're starting to work on bolts 17mm and above...

For me I find a small breaker good for tight spaces (saves breaking any ratchet mechanisms! :p ) and if necessary I throw the trusty extendable wheel nut wrench on the end... Does the business!

[ahlem]

You need the scissors type ball joint separator. Once you torque it down a bit. you bang on the side of the offending member to get it to come loose. I tried two other kinds, pickle fork and puller looking thing and didn't get either to work. I soaked the nuts in PB Blaster and that helped. Make sure your face isn't anywhere near when that torqued separator comes loose. A good loud bang may occur.

[632 Regal]

the only problem now is centre tie rod situation and the thrust arm bolts. I've just read somewhere that you need to remove the big bolt on the sway bar plate in order to drop the cross member enough to get access to the bolt. Its a shame its gone dark, I'm dying to get out there and give it another go!!

I had to drop the sway bar on mine the first time, there was no room to get a wrench on the nut. After that whenever I would do thrust arms, I ground a wrench so it would just slip into place. I didnt over torque them on assembly so I can get them out with the cheater wrench. It is ground down a LOT and doubt it would hold on my first time.

[leicesterboy15]

I had to drop the sway bar on mine the first time, there was no room to get a wrench on the nut. After that whenever I would do thrust arms, I ground a wrench so it would just slip into place. I didnt over torque them on assembly so I can get them out with the cheater wrench. It is ground down a LOT and doubt it would hold on my first time.

Well this weekend went much better, I got all the steering components out, the centre tie rod was a PITA, there was one ball joint that I couldn't get clearance for (the opposite site to the idler arm), I tried for a while, removed all the rubber to get more access, I broke a ball joint puller by using an impact wrench on it then I decided to get medieval and just pound the new puller in there and crank it up, oh the satisfaction when it finally dropped!

Also stripped the lower arms, sway bar links, sway bar, idler arm, outer tie rods and the thrust arms! Finally!! I realised there was no way of getting in there so as Regal said its much easier to drop the sway bar, 2 15mm bolts and one 18mm bolt with good clearance on either side and it drops down, you can then drop the cross member and tackle the bolts off the car if you've got the whole front off the ground. As I only had one side on stands I decided to bolt the cross member back (loosely) without the sway bar and tackle the bolt on the car. They weren't actually on that tight once you get the clearance! One tip though - the thrust arm nut is 22mm but the bolt is 21mm, using a 22mm socket on the bolt doesn't get you enough leverage.

The scissor ball joint separator is your friend during this job. An electric torque wrench helped as well, got a cheap one off ebay, seems to be doing the trick up to now.

I've loosened the bolts on the other side but not removed the arms yet, I'll do that next weekend as well as build the suspension and steering back up. Now I need to go shopping for sway bar links, lower alu arms and outer tie rods.

Some pics from the job:

The most annoying ball joint:
http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e97/brighterbuys/IMG_8164.jpg

http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e97/brighterbuys/IMG_8167.jpg

http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e97/brighterbuys/IMG_8170.jpg

http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e97/brighterbuys/IMG_8172.jpg

The controversial 'where do you jack your car up from' picture, everything was straight and sturdy by the way even though in the picture it looks angled and horrendously insecure:
http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e97/brighterbuys/IMG_8174.jpg

[Tiger]

Dude! That's insane doing all that in one shot. I have no problem using pickle fork removing all stearing components. A couple whack with 32oz hammer does the trick.