PDA

View Full Version : Control Arms for 1992 525i



Al Gray
03-27-2010, 09:36 PM
I am having a tough time breaking loose the ball joint for the lower control arm. I have used a pickle fork to no avail; now I am in a "real pickle". The Bentley manual cites BMW special tool no. 31 1 110 or an equivalent press. What have you folks used to do this job and where did you buy and what was it called. I am getting frustrated. I believe these are the original control arms so they have been or there 18 years. Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Al Gray (age 63 and still kickin' ass)

ryan roopnarine
03-27-2010, 09:45 PM
I have never had luck detaching them from the steering knuckle in the car. I take the whole knuckle off (the three bolts at the bottom of the shock/strut and use a puller and a vice. pops off quite easily that way. Bill R has suggested the same, if you search, you can probably find a post with pictures from him or others.

good luck.

632 Regal
03-28-2010, 01:17 AM
First time I did mine I pounded the fork in there real tight and then used an acetylene torch to heat the area around the taper fit. Removing the item as a unit would probably be easier as ryan posted.

sal_park
03-28-2010, 03:33 AM
I am having a tough time breaking loose the ball joint for the lower control arm. I have used a pickle fork to no avail; now I am in a "real pickle". The Bentley manual cites BMW special tool no. 31 1 110 or an equivalent press. What have you folks used to do this job and where did you buy and what was it called. I am getting frustrated. I believe these are the original control arms so they have been or there 18 years. Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Al Gray (age 63 and still kickin' ass)

Have you tried a scissor type ball joint remover ? That's what did it for me. You'll need to do it up very tight and make sure there's something soft for the arm to hit when it comes out. By 'very tight' I mean don't stop until it comes out or something breaks. I needed to use a 1/2 inch drive with a ~2 foot extenion bar. This put's the joint under and ENORMOUSE amount of pressure, please be careful ! I'd make sure the other end of the arm is connect to the body so that it can fly anywhere when it let's go.

Good luck.

whiskychaser
03-28-2010, 04:42 PM
I've used this type with some success:
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ball-joint-splitter-duel-position-20-50mm-19mm-opening_W0QQitemZ370326712830QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK _Hand_Tools_Equipment?hash=item56393131fe
They are great for putting the joint under pressure. But a smack with a 2lb hammer is the secret. IMHO its a bit like expecting valve collets to let go just using a spring compressor-they wont. Then again I learned to split ball joints at an early age using the 2 hammer method alone:D

leicesterboy15
03-28-2010, 05:22 PM
I've used this type with some success:
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ball-joint-splitter-duel-position-20-50mm-19mm-opening_W0QQitemZ370326712830QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK _Hand_Tools_Equipment?hash=item56393131fe
They are great for putting the joint under pressure. But a smack with a 2lb hammer is the secret. IMHO its a bit like expecting valve collets to let go just using a spring compressor-they wont. Then again I learned to split ball joints at an early age using the 2 hammer method alone:D

I totally agree with this! Don't attempt it without this. I did mine yesterday, I took the steering plate off the car with the 3 ball joints still attached and it took less than 10 minutes to get them all off. You just whack the separator as far as it will go into the gap and crank it up!
http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e97/brighterbuys/IMG_8166.jpg

leicesterboy15
03-28-2010, 05:25 PM
This is the separator I used, although I did break this one by using an impact wrench on it to get the tie rod out. I had to replace it at at a cost of £25 :(

You can see the other type above the hacksaw in the picture (silver) but this one is nowhere near as effective.
http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e97/brighterbuys/IMG_8177.jpg

whiskychaser
03-29-2010, 05:08 AM
I actually meant you hit the housing so it jars the tapered part free, not the tool:D. First splitter I ever bought was like the one just above the hacksack. I found it always tore the rubber boot on steering ball joints. Which meant you were replacing a joint you didnt intend and needed a trip to the garage to get the tracking done as well...:(

Tiger
03-29-2010, 08:53 AM
When using the fork, you have to use it in the right way... there is a taper on the fork and it has to be inserted the right way. If it doesn't work in that position, flip it around and try again.

You really do need the 32oz or more hammer to get it out.

Sometime the best position is from outside of the car hitting it... like the ball joint by the wheel.