Aftermarket remote unlocking problems.

[ss2115]

Hi.
I've fitted an aftermarket remote to my late 92 525i Touring - RHD (Australia).
Instructions said to fit behind the drivers kickpanel and not under the back seat.
Found the lock and unlock cables - White/green/yellow and White/green according to the wiring diagrams for "later production vehicles".
[the White/red/yellow does not exist]
There is a Blue/brown/yellow which does double lock if the remote lock output is put directly to it, but wont allow the unlock to work.

The problems -
The system will lock and unlock okay. But I cannot get the double lock to work using the diodes as described. It will lock, but not unlock, and it will still only lock normally and still not double lock.
Yes - the diodes are the correct way around and yes they are working - tested to flow in one direction and not the reverse.
If I use the extra wire provided for the comfort windows through a diode as shown, it will double lock and put up the windows, but I cannot unlock the car by the remote and have to use the key.
Also, if I just put up with normal locking and unlocking and forget about the double lock and the windows, it works reliably while being tested but if the car is left overnight, it won't unlock in the morning and I have to use the key. Then if tested it works perfectly again. Its as if after a set time the power turns off.

This is supposed to be a system for the E34 including the comfort windows, but its been a curse. When installed out of the box as described, it would double lock and raise the windows, but wouldn't unlock. The diodes were all installed in the loom and shrink wrapped, so I ended up taking them all out and starting from scratch which has gotten me to the point described as above.

At this point of time I'm wondering if the GM or wiring is that much different for a RHD, although I've taken off the passenger side kick panel and the wiring is all the same colours.
I've looked at the plug under the back seat and the colours are nothing familiar and there's only half of the 12 pins in there anyway.

I deally I would like to replicate the door key action - ie: lock normally, double lock without raising windows, and raise the windows. Here in hot Sydney, we often like to leave the windows open a crack to let out the heat and this is where the double lock is handy because anyone with a coat hanger or strap cannot use the cracked open window to raise the locking button or try the inner handle.

I'd love to hear from anyone who has had similar problems and solved them.
I don't think its entirely the remote unit to blame - I think it may be something different with my car that the remote isn't coping with or is incompatable despite it being supposedly for an E34 5 series BMW.

As an afterthought, most of the descriptions of the wiring that I've searched for in this forum and in the remote desriptions themselves always mention yellow dots on the wires when there is a third identifier. My car has no yellow dots - they are a solid colour, with the second colour as a solid stripe, and then the yellow is a fuzzy stripe circulating around the wire - no dots.

[ss2115]

I'm going crazy.
White/green/yellow cable locks the car first position.
White/green cable unlocks. This is reliable and repeatable.
The blue/brown/yellow will instantly double lock (second position) when its given a positive pulse, but then no combination of pulses or diode connections will unlock the car.
Going back as far as a 1991 wiring diagram showing the three switch positions of the drivers door lock suggests that a positive pulse on the blue/brown/yellow wire will unlock the car, but it doesn't work - the car remains double locked.
Looking at the 92, 93 and 94 wiring diagrams doesn't shed any light on it for me. They show only a two position drivers door lock switch and holding positive longer on the lock wire doesn't make it double lock.
Only pulsing the blue etc wire will double lock it and then I cannot unlock except to use the key.

[genphreak]

It's probably made for a differnet prod'n date or regional variant, the alarm modules and locking sytstems all varied so much around the world at different times its hard to know what plugs in where- sounds like your first hit was close, just the double locking not working. I've an Aust '95 525iT with an aftermarket system, I need to get new batteries for the remote to see if it works... I'd guess its wired in at the kickpanel, it's nothing special. With regards to looms, US cars are often slightly different so beware thy schematic- the euro ones are much closer for us if you can find one.

[ss2115]

It's probably made for a differnet prod'n date or regional variant, the alarm modules and locking sytstems all varied so much around the world at different times its hard to know what plugs in where- sounds like your first hit was close, just the double locking not working. I've an Aust '95 525iT with an aftermarket system, I need to get new batteries for the remote to see if it works... I'd guess its wired in at the kickpanel, it's nothing special. With regards to looms, US cars are often slightly different so beware thy schematic- the euro ones are much closer for us if you can find one.

Hi Genpheak.
If your aftermarket system is made for the BMW, then you'll most likely find yours under the back seat.
From what I've gathered in information over the last few months is that my car is on the cusp of change - ie: anything after my 11/92 has the appropriate plug under the rear seat with 11 out of the 12 pins carrying everything needed.
Pre-my car the plug only has 7 or 8 of the 12 pins and isn't suitable to tap into - thats where they need to go to the kick panel instead.
My car seems to be an enigma with later wiring colours, earlier door locks and the incorrect plug under the rear seat but I do have the BMW inbuilt alarm and drive away protection as well as the correct IR mirror and the little red LED at the front of the dashboard grill.
However, on giving my VIN to the local BMW dealer, he tells me the car was never delivered with the keyless option.

I'm tempted to go OEM but don't know everything I need.
Have the mirror and the LED.
Don't have any black box under the rear seat.
Don't know if the plug will work as its missing so many pins and the wire colours don't match anything for the European, Bently or US diagrams I've found off the net.
I think there's supposed to be a small transmitter located behind the courtesy mirror above the mirror as well.
Then I have to find the correct FOB's also.

All possible but I need some guidence as to exactly what to obtain.
If the OEM system that could have been optioned with the car at the time repeats exactly what the drivers key lock does, I'd be in heaven.
ie: quick lock or double lock and then hold down the lock button to make the windows go up giving me the choice of leaving the windows open a bit with the locks double locked.
And then if it rains, I can put the windows up from my office without having to run outside and get wet.

[Tiger]

I got a factory alarm but I never ever got the windows to work. Remote receiver is crazy... it works sometime and other time it doesn't work at all.

[Grantus]

Check out '12volt installers forum' and ask there. He knows his stuff.

[genphreak]

Never leave the windows down, it will rin when you're not looking... LOL! Best to tint the windows and stwo a popup windscreen shade under a front seat to stop it getting too hot inside here in Oz. What you can do is find the right schematic, best to use a the BMW TIS by VIN to do this, and then bring up the wiring diagram to get a spot on one. No car is an enigma, they plan the wiring very carefully over there... I have a rarer e34 than yours here and it isn't... so just find the right schema before trying to break your mind figuring out the differences. Perhaps don't try to get your aftermarket key to do it all, be happy to get just the basics going. Then leave the rest until you find better info.

[ss2115]

What you can do is find the right schematic, best to use a the BMW TIS by VIN to do this, and then bring up the wiring diagram to get a spot on one.

Sounds good - how do I do this? At the moment I've just searched many BMW forums and clubs for links to electrical diagrams and downloaded and then compared them to what I know of mine.

How do I insure I get the exact one for my VIN number?
It would obviously be extremely helpful if I could rely on it.

At the moment I am indeed just using the normal unlock/lock with the remote, and will use the key if I wish to doublelock and/or put up the windows.
I don't have any choice.

[genphreak]

At the moment I am indeed just using the normal unlock/lock with the remote, and will use the key if I wish to doublelock and/or put up the windows. I don't have any choice.Great choice :) stick with it, don't break it. Do something better with your time, like changing out something that needs improvement, fixing yoru HVAC controler... etc.

BTW, for TIS, bittorrent is your friend.

[whiskychaser]

Really interested in this as I've thought long and hard about retrofitting. What system are your installing? The cheaper systems always seem to stumble when it comes to the 'comfort' bit: double locking, closing windows etc. (I dont have the receiver in the mirror or next to the roof button)
This may be totally unrelated, but the dash LED on mine flashes for about 8 seconds before it goes steady and the immobiliser is set. Is it possible that when you double lock and then open immediately it works as the immobiliser circuit hasnt yet come into play?

[genphreak]

A ot of Oz delivered cars have the integrated 'alarm' option, which has no fob at all. It can be distinguished by the car having no LED in the main key and no reciever in the overhead panel or rear view mirror. Alarm simply works with the ignition key/double locking.

As it may have done in the UK, this changed at the end of '88 (11/88), after which the central locking system was revised and some parts changed. I think most cars with an alarm had a seperate fob or the integrated IR key to control it after this too. There were 2-3 systems, Alpine made some, all under the back seat I think. The problem connectiign after market ones is simply the different locking systems and wiring in the car. To get a perfect fit, the vendor nereds to know about all these differences. It'd be nice to get this sorted out so all teh differences are obvious in each model run & market... Now there's a worthy challenge.

[whiskychaser]

A ot of Oz delivered cars have the integrated 'alarm' option, which has no fob at all. It can be distinguished by the car having no LED in the main key and no reciever in the overhead panel or rear view mirror. Alarm simply works with the ignition key/double locking.

This sounds very much like what I have got. I have all the original keys and the only thing in the 'master' is a bulb for a torch. There is a slight complication in that mine isnt a UK market car - its S African:D
I didnt think it had an alarm so did a little test. I double locked it with the driver's window open then reached in and tried to start it - it wouldnt start and set the alarm off:D

[genphreak]

Yep, and don't get complacent... it'll get you on a cold morning when the battery voltage drops too low (if you let your battery become that badly behaved that is). It'll go off and get you down there to suffer and curse in the cold alongside it... LOL!

[ss2115]

This sounds very much like what I have got. I have all the original keys and the only thing in the 'master' is a bulb for a torch. There is a slight complication in that mine isnt a UK market car - its S African:D
I didnt think it had an alarm so did a little test. I double locked it with the driver's window open then reached in and tried to start it - it wouldnt start and set the alarm off:D

Yep - thats mine as well.
One and only key I received with the car has the little torch globe only.
And I do have the alarm system - I've set it off accidently a couple of times while trying to sort out the wiring.

It'd be nice to get this sorted out so all the differences are obvious in each model run & market... Now there's a worthy challenge.

Here, here.

This may be totally unrelated, but the dash LED on mine flashes for about 8 seconds before it goes steady and the immobiliser is set. Is it possible that when you double lock and then open immediately it works as the immobiliser circuit hasnt yet come into play?

I haven't noticed that my LED does anything, but then I've never watched it intentionaly. Will do so to test if it does anything and what causes it to.

My alarm wasn't inexpensive - about $279 from memory. It was a United Security System and "supposed" to be made for the BMW. Promised that it would plug into the existing plug under the back seat. I had to send them the VIN to "make sure I got the right one".
But when it arrived, the instructional CD didn't match the alarm unit itself.
I went back to them and they told me that my model couldn't use the plug and I had to install behind the kick panel instead. I accused them of false advertising but got nowhere. Then they sent me a PDF of the correct instructions which still didn't match my cars wire colour codes. (Probably cannot blame them for that in fairness).
But then when I asked for help, they didn't at first give me information relating to the alarm they sent me (eg: told me I needed the extra diodes attachment for the comfort windows while mine already had them installed in their loom inside shrink wrapping) and after that they ignored me despite many plea's for help.
I was too scared to return the unit as I didn't think they'd refund me and thats when I decided to battle it out on my own.
It didn't seem that they knew their own product at all.

The Fobs have the switchblade key which at first I thought I would like, but now realise that I don't - they're big, weighty and awkward in the ignition switch with a bunch of other keys on the same keyring (unavoidable).

My biggest remaining problem is that I can get it to double lock, but it won't then unlock from the double locked condition. Solve that and I'd be okay. Comfort windows would be a nice bonus but I could live without them if necessary.

I'd happily turf this system now and either go OEM or purchase a system that is known to work 100% with my car.

[genphreak]

Yep - thats mine as well.
One and only key I received with the car has the little torch globe only.
And I do have the alarm system - I've set it off accidently a couple of times while trying to sort out the wiring.

This may be totally unrelated, but the dash LED on mine flashes for about 8 seconds before it goes steady and the immobiliser is set. Is it possible that when you double lock and then open immediately it works as the immobiliser circuit hasnt yet come into play?

The new alarm's LED? NFI, sorry.

I haven't noticed that my LED does anything, but then I've never watched it intentionaly. Will do so to test if it does anything and what causes it to.

Neither me...

My alarm wasn't inexpensive - about $279 from memory. It was a United Security System and "supposed" to be made for the BMW. Promised that it would plug into the existing plug under the back seat. I had to send them the VIN to "make sure I got the right one".
But when it arrived, the instructional CD didn't match the alarm unit itself.
I went back to them and they told me that my model couldn't use the plug and I had to install behind the kick panel instead. I accused them of false advertising but got nowhere.

Don't accuse, just box it up and send it back, asking for a refund in writing due to it being unfit for purpose.

thats when I decided to battle it out on my own. It didn't seem that they knew their own product at all.

Eugh.. too often the case, best to use the law to get your money back early on.

The Fobs have the switchblade key which at first I thought I would like, but now realise that I don't - they're big, weighty and awkward in the ignition switch with a bunch of other keys on the same keyring (unavoidable).

Don't bunch them up, maybe keep your car key seperate from your house keys.

My biggest remaining problem is that I can get it to double lock, but it won't then unlock from the double locked condition. Solve that and I'd be okay. Comfort windows would be a nice bonus but I could live without them if necessary.

Using the key works doesn't it?

I'd happily turf this system now and either go OEM or purchase a system that is known to work 100% with my car.

OK, send it to me when you do... I can handle that limitation :) But then again, I have one for over a year in the garage, still haven't wired it in, or even rplaced the battery in the car that already has it... euh!

[whiskychaser]

The United Security system BMWRZX6 was the one I was looking at. Its supposed to fit any E34 525i,535i,540i or M5 from '92 to '96. The ad still says so! The obvious attraction is that its said to be plug and play. But someone warned me they didnt work - must have been you ss2115?
If you dont double lock then the immobiliser and alarm dont cut in. Great trying to explain that one to the insurance company if its gets stolen:( And if you have to use the key its pointless having the remote.
I looked at retro installing oem equipment but IIRC you need a particular type of dash LED (seems there are 2 types), the receiver in the mirror or next to the roof switch, the box of tricks and remotes. But as it works on infra red its not very good anyway:(
None of the above helps with your wiring problem and I will be next in line if you come across a system that actually works

[ss2115]

The United Security system BMWRZX6 was the one I was looking at. Its supposed to fit any E34 525i,535i,540i or M5 from '92 to '96. The ad still says so! The obvious attraction is that its said to be plug and play. But someone warned me they didnt work - must have been you ss2115?
If you dont double lock then the immobiliser and alarm dont cut in. Great trying to explain that one to the insurance company if its gets stolen:( And if you have to use the key its pointless having the remote.
I looked at retro installing oem equipment but IIRC you need a particular type of dash LED (seems there are 2 types), the receiver in the mirror or next to the roof switch, the box of tricks and remotes. But as it works on infra red its not very good anyway:(
None of the above helps with your wiring problem and I will be next in line if you come across a system that actually works

Hi. Yeah - it was me that gave you the warning.
We had a really nice Easter Friday here for working in the driveway, so after a few months of leaving the installation disconnected, I decided to have another go at it.
Hence my frustrated thread.
Most probably the later model that does plug into the BMW plug works - I don't know. But it was deliberate misrepresentation on anything earlier than 1993 that got me and not telling me until after it had been received!
Then when it didn't work as advertised despite following the new instructions, they didn't want to know me.
I mentioned I was afraid to return it - well I'm in Sydney Australia and they are in the USA and it was purchased on ebay late last year. What hope would I have of a refund.
Stay away from them.