How often should I replace fuel filters?

[bbig119]

Drove the car from Long Island into Philly early this morning. Ran fine the entire way until I got off the freeway and into local traffic trying to find a parking spot on the street. At one of the first lights, the car bucked a little, likely due to delay in throttle response and then I got a check engine light. At the next traffic light the car stalled. Fired right up and quickly tried to find a parking spot. In the process the car stalled several times, mostly when stopped or coasting, and pretty much started up without a problem immediately.

I replaced my intake gaskets, fuel filters, and fuel pump in Dec 06. I'm not sure why I'm getting this problem so suddenly. I wonder if I can manage to attempt to drive it home tonight, hoping that I won't stall out at highway speeds.

I realize that there is a long list of possible causes for this problem and I haven't had the chance to check any of them. I've put 30k on the car since I replaced parts in winter 06.

One other observation, maybe unrelated. I've been getting a warning for low engine oil, especially after long drives, but the dipstick shows that the level is fine. This message came up again today after one of the stalls.

[shogun]

30 k is not much for a fuel filter. I would check the voltage, maybe that is the cause it dies, especially check the fusable link which could have haircracks.

[bbig119]

Update.

Car cranks, but won't turnover. I didn't have the time or the tools to check the plugs or do any other diagnostics. I suspect that this could be a fuel delivery or TPS sensor problem?

[MBXB]

It might be the crank position sensor.
I got my replacement from Checkers. Popped it in and it fired right up.

[bbig119]

It might be the crank position sensor.
I got my replacement from Checkers. Popped it in and it fired right up.

How easy is it to get in with limited tools parked on the street in the city? Do the belts and the fan need to be removed?

[MBXB]

Any codes showing up? Check Engine Light?

Here's the old thread:

http://www.bimmernut.com/forum/showthread.php?t=41743&highlight=crank+position+sensor

It's a pretty easy job. Clean it off by blasting with a can or two of electrical parts cleaner. A really bright light helps.

[Tiger]

I think it is CPS... unless your alternator is not putting out enough voltage. Check battery voltage.

CPS when cold, should run unless really dead. Splashing cold water on the CPS when engine is hot and engine runs... is sure sign of bad CPS.

[bbig119]

I did get a couple check engine light flashes and I will check codes and voltages today. As I was trying to park the car and it was stalling, it did get a little more difficult to turn over on one of the last times I had to restart it. After sitting all day, it didn't even think about starting.

MBXB, you saying I should try to clean the old one, or the new one with electrical parts cleaner?

Tiger, are you saying that the cold water trick isn't worth trying now that the car is cold?

[MBXB]

The sensor is located in front of the engine. You can follow the lead as it comes out of the engine cover down to the mounting point.

Chances are it's all encrusted with grime. Oil will mess with electrical signals. It could be something as simple as oil on the contacts.

Either way, it will make the job a lot easier to clean the area. You don't want any dirt on the contacts if you have to replace it. It won't hurt anything to blast it with the electrical parts cleaner. It's plastic friendly and the crap ends up in the catch pan.



I did get a couple check engine light flashes and I will check codes and voltages today. As I was trying to park the car and it was stalling, it did get a little more difficult to turn over on one of the last times I had to restart it. After sitting all day, it didn't even think about starting.

MBXB, you saying I should try to clean the old one, or the new one with electrical parts cleaner?

Tiger, are you saying that the cold water trick isn't worth trying now that the car is cold?

[bbig119]

Today I was able to test a working fuel pump relay. No change. I also measured the resistance between pins 1 and 2 of the CPS sensor and got a reading of 10-15 Mohms. The reading was wandering higher and since I'm already much higher than the 1200 ohms stated in the bentley, I'm assuming that my sensor is borked. I'm going to check fuse 23, 17 and 2, just in case.

I've contacted BMA and the stealer about a new CPS sensor since there are several posts indicating that buying OEM for M60 engines is important. Looks like I'll be out about $140 unless my buddy can get a discount at the dealer. BMA wasn't cheap enough to justify the wait in shipping to the east coast. I'll be sure to clean both the contacts at the plug and also at the sensor with electrical cleaner before I put the new one in though.

Thanks for your help. I'm just hoping its as simple as the CPS sensor otherwise I'm going to have to get it towed.

[MBXB]

The last post on bf said something about getting the same OEM part from Carquest. There was one down the road from me. It was around $80. It was a Delphi. (yea.. that Delphi/Delco). Fit and function are fine.

[bbig119]

Just an update.

I replaced the crankshaft position sensor and the car fired right up.

It took quite a bit of work to get the old one out though. Maybe my case is isolated, but the old sensor was stuck onto, rather into the mounting post and would not budge even after I removed the hex bolt. In order to remove it, I had to knock it out from underneath the car by hitting mallet against the back end of a screwdriver that was positioned on the bottom face of the sensor (up against the harmonic balancer). Fortunately the sensor was indeed the problem because I destroyed it to get it out. Getting the new sensor in was also challenging and a tight fit, but not as bad as getting the old one out.

I took removed the air intake tubes between the airbox and the intake to get better access but didn't remove the fan or fan shroud. I also had to loosen the oil dipstick to give me clearance to get an extension on the mounting hex bolt holding the sensor in place.

Thanks again for your help and support.

[Tiger]

That's great! You fixed it. How much did you pay for the CPS? What brand? I saw RockAuto one made by Standard Part looks identical to OE for a bargain.

[bbig119]

I paid $150 for an OE from the dealer. Not thrilled about it though. Ordinarily I would have been willing to wait longer for one to be shipped to me, but my car was stuck an hour away on the street in Philly. I'm also crazy busy writing my dissertation right now, so I seriously contemplated just asking a shop to do the work. I probably would have if the problem appeared to be anything more involved than this.

I was pretty confident that the CPS was the problem but I tried not to get too optimistic because if it wasn't, I would be out the $150 for the new sensor and facing a decision on if and where to tow the car.

[Tiger]

Car and you are safe and sound. That is important. On the bright side, it will be another 16 years before that CPS will crap out again. LOL.

Earn your PhD!