strut nut socket Make your own

[Kibokojoe]

Picked up a 13/16 deep socket at the hardware store tonight. After about 10 minutes of grinding I have a strut nut socket. Now this socket fits my sister in laws E39 but you can do the same thing with a 3/4" socket for the E34. 3/4" equals a snug 19mm and these SAE are about half the price of metric sockets in the states. Socket cost me $7 USD. Tried it out and it works great. All you need is to torque to 47 ft/lbs. Beat paying $35 + and waiting for it to come in the mail. Wonder what BMW charges for this little jewel?

http://i273.photobucket.com/albums/jj225/kibokojoe/strutsocket1.jpg

[genphreak]

Nice work, I've always battled with those without resolving it practically. Nice.

[Kibokojoe]

Used a craftsman socket, they are known for their quality. Never broken one in my 40+ years of wrenching.


Nice work, I've always battled with those without resolving it practically. Nice.

[Tiger]

I have seen those socket... could you please explain to me why that hole is needed? I have done a few struts but never had to use one of those.

[ahlem]

Another method that works pretty well is to grab the OD of a 1/2" drive deep wall impact socket with pipe wrench and use a 1/4" drive socket down the 1/2" drive hole to hold the end of the strut. I used a 3/8 to 1/4 adapter and a short extension. You get a bit more turn that way. I made the socket with the cut out as well. Different struts have different top ends that may require an allen wrench, a socket wrench or some odd flat on two sides. I've even cut off a socket and welded on a handle to leave the whole top exposed so I can put a box end on the flat on two sides version.

[Kibokojoe]

How do you torque the nut to 47 ft/lbs. I understand these bearings are pretty particular and at $140 USD a pop I torque them exact :)


Another method that works pretty well is to grab the OD of a 1/2" drive deep wall impact socket with pipe wrench and use a 1/4" drive socket down the 1/2" drive hole to hold the end of the strut. I used a 3/8 to 1/4 adapter and a short extension. You get a bit more turn that way. I made the socket with the cut out as well. Different struts have different top ends that may require an allen wrench, a socket wrench or some odd flat on two sides. I've even cut off a socket and welded on a handle to leave the whole top exposed so I can put a box end on the flat on two sides version.

[Tiger]

Ahh... for the final torquing purpose... so the nut is in the recess hole which makes it hard to torque if the rod is spinning.

Lots of mechanic just use your air gun and rat-a-tat and done... of course, they probably put more than 150 lb/ft torque on it.

[Kibokojoe]

There has to be a reason they spec 47 ft/lbs

[Tiger]

Tightening the strut bolt doesn't put pressure on the bearing... From the size of the bolt and the thread pitch, it is all you need.

Mechanic's salary is based on their speed... so rat-a-tat. Done! Same for lugbolts... rat-a-tat done! The reason is because they live on time game... flat rate book said that is all they get paid... they want to beat the time as much as possible. If they can do it in 1.5 hours, the extra 1.5 hours is bonus for them... until they hit a doozy job that takes them far longer than flat rate allowed... sometime by 2 or 3 times longer.

That is why they are quite picky on what job to accept when they are busy.

[Kibokojoe]

Yeah I had a mechanic at PepBoys rat-a-tat a wheel lug on my van. They spend the rest of the day trying to get it off. Ended up messing up my wheel. Never went back to them.

[Tiger]

If my car went into a garage for wheel service... I loosen up the lugbolts when I get home and toque it.