View Full Version : M30 Crankshaft Seal
///Sniper535
05-15-2010, 08:31 PM
I have a front oil leak that's been annoying me for a while now. A few suggestions have been the crankshaft seal. Are these common to failure? If so, what's the best way to get to it?
aston_jag_tech
05-15-2010, 08:35 PM
Theres a tool to hold the crank will removing the crank nut. The tools is about $60. The crank nut is torqued to something like 320 ft lbs... A long time ago I removed my crank pulley to replace the chain, etc... I used the tool and a breaker bar with a cheater bar on the end. The total length was about 7 ft. I could have used an impact gun but I didnt because mine couldnt fit between the rad and engine.
genphreak
05-16-2010, 07:29 AM
Yea, one starts to worry about bending the crank, those nuts are done sooo tight.
With the oil leak, there are two common locations- high mileage engine is the crankshaft seal. The more likley culprit is the timing chaing tensioner, it sticks out, you'll see it just under the distributor cap.
Has anyone done this using a piston stop, the type that screws into a sparkplug hole?
I though about it but had visions of a punctured piston given the force needed to loosen that f#@%er.
whiskychaser
05-18-2010, 09:00 AM
Has anyone done this using a piston stop, the type that screws into a sparkplug hole?
I though about it but had visions of a punctured piston given the force needed to loosen that f#@%er.
Hole in piston and/or stuffed plugs threads:(
I use a 1/2" socket and breaker bar. Fit socket and wedge end of bar loosely. Then flick the starter.
Warning: do not try this at home;)
Mordan
05-20-2010, 11:44 AM
Theres a tool to hold the crank will removing the crank nut. The tools is about $60. The crank nut is torqued to something like 320 ft lbs... A long time ago I removed my crank pulley to replace the chain, etc... I used the tool and a breaker bar with a cheater bar on the end. The total length was about 7 ft. I could have used an impact gun but I didnt because mine couldnt fit between the rad and engine.
where do you get that tool? I will need it eventually for my M20
thx
Hole in piston and/or stuffed plugs threads:(
I use a 1/2" socket and breaker bar. Fit socket and wedge end of bar loosely. Then flick the starter.
Warning: do not try this at home;)
I tried the "rope trick" on an M30 once. I must have had ten yards of rope in the damn cylinder and it would still turn past TDC before that GD bolt would budge.
With a head off I bolted three 3/16" thick steel brackets with holes conveniently spaced across the bore with old head bolts and a large socket in the cylinder as a piston stop. Bent all three brackets but got the bolt off.
I'm sure there is a very German reason for making these so tight.
ahlem
05-23-2010, 09:54 PM
I made my own crankshaft tool out of a piece of 1/4"x2" flat steel about 3 feet long. You grind a smile in it for clearance and drill a hole on either side of the smile to accept the bolts. If the motor is in the car. the tool can rest on the ground. I used a long breaker bar to loosen. I calculated how many pounds of force to reinstall.
genphreak
05-24-2010, 03:28 PM
where do you get that tool? I will need it eventually for my M20
thxon eBay, there's a guy in Aus selling them for AU$14.50
Item number:260594152223Item location:Melbourne, VIC, AustraliaPosts to:Worldwide
genphreak
05-24-2010, 04:46 PM
I amde one from 40x40x4.0 SHS tube once, bolted it into 2 headstuds with a decent block of wood over the piston top. It worked, no damage. Would be happier using the tool though...
ahlem
10-05-2011, 06:26 PM
Now I'm getting an oil leak about 4" dia. every time I drive. How long does it take to change the main seal on an M30B35? I've done other BMWs and an Audi before. It was a couple hours at least. Fortunately I have that crank tool I made for the e30.
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