Lubro-Moly mos2 10w40 -opinions?

[Russell]

Going to try Lubro-Moly mos2 10w40 semi synthetic in my old bmw 1995 525i with 188,000 miles. Any opinions?

I hope it is as good as my current fill with Valvoline 20w50 Maxlife blend which is smooth and quiet. I have high hopes. Quality german oil in a german car. :)

[Tiger]

Just stick with any synthetic is fine... no need for super 'fancy' motor oil... That's like drinking Budweiser instead of Miller...

[whiskychaser]

AFIK Germany doesnt have any oil wells:D The handbook has a graph showing which oils are good for which temperature ranges. It shows 20-50 is good for 0-50 deg C. Provided you never get frost where you live I'm sure its fine. 10W-40 semi synthetic works just fine for me. And it works fine in her car too:)
Be interested to learn if you get any improvement though

[Russell]

beg to differ. Lots of guys on bobistheoilguy forum would argue big time with you.

In my case 0w40 mobil I is terrible in my car - very noisy and produced bad used oil analysis. I have found that my car seems to like heavier conventional or synthetic oils. Hence trying a German oil. Only $36.87 for 6 liters at NAPA.

[Russell]

AFIK Germany doesnt have any oil wells:D The handbook has a graph showing which oils are good for which temperature ranges. It shows 20-50 is good for 0-50 deg C. Provided you never get frost where you live I'm sure its fine. 10W-40 semi synthetic works just fine for me. And it works fine in her car too:)
Be interested to learn if you get any improvement though

I hear you. I doubt if i will see any real change.

I have run 15w40 in the winter with temperatures around 0 deg. F. Car started and ran fine. However, there was a lot of noise as the thicker oil pumped up to the valves train. Much quieter in cold weather with lighter oil.

[Tiger]

I am weaning myself off Mobil 1... going to use Amsoil once I finish my Mobil 1 supply of 5w30.

Really? That cheap at Napa? I thought those were like $8 a quart... I have not seen a 6 liter bottle... most of them are 5 liters. At your price... $7.374 per quart.

You can argue about oil but I have to tell you... how many of those guys actually runs those oil until it needs to be changed out by oil analysis? Right now, my folk's 01 E320 has been running on Mobil 1 to 10,000 miles per oil change. It is 9 years later and approaching 75K miles... no problem with engine.

I hear guys changing synthetic oils out at 3 to 5000 miles! Insanity! Synthetic oil are great today that they really do protect your engine and keeps it super clean. Then again, when is the last time you had an engine go bad because of synthetic oil...

Yes, it is all marketing and analysis game... but synthetic is just so much better than dino oil. It brings our oil maintenace down to once a year or reduce our time from 4 oil changed down to 1 oil change. We don't need to waste time and money those 'three extra times."

[Tiger]

Augh! Now look what you did to me...

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/cms/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=78&Itemid=1

I have to read the rest later... it is way after 1am...

By the way, Bob got some really nice pricy cars!!!

[Russell]

actually 5 liter container and 1 liter bottle.

[genphreak]

I always go for lowest/highest, ie cheapstuff @15W/50 and expensive 10W/50 (which is what Bob reccommends for 50 weigght oils: "Shell Helix Ultra 15W-50"). I figure engine temps are the same unless it is freezing where you live, so surely only a few people can really get away with oils rated below 50 when that is wht the manufacturer reccommends. I tried 10W/40 once, it made the valves really noisy on a warm day under load. Haven't gone back since...

Really, if it made your car even 10% more efficient to run 0W/20 oil (without much else comprimised), the manufacturers would specify it in a flash. They don't, and that is because 1. It is more expensive, and 2. The engine comnponents no longer have the lvel or protection they need to keep them safe from occaisionally 'harsh conditions'.

[Tiger]

Then go for it... that is good price.

Just finished Bob is the oil guy... rich dude... doctor and probably has mechanical engineer background before he went to med school. I don't know if he has a bio...

In the end... he advocate thinner synthetic oil... 0W20 is the way to go.

[Tiger]

Oil on sale at Autozone... started yesterday utnil Aug 23

http://www.autozone.com/images/MEDIA_ProductCatalog/m1960212_august-circular-r.pdf

Pennzoil Platinum Synthetic... 5 quarts and oil filter for $29.99!

[Tiger]

Oil on Sale at Advanced Auto

5 quarts of Mobil 1 variety plus filter for $29.99

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/content_july-2010-oil-specials___

Not sure when this ends.

[Russell]

Then go for it... that is good price.

Just finished Bob is the oil guy... rich dude... doctor and probably has mechanical engineer background before he went to med school. I don't know if he has a bio...

In the end... he advocate thinner synthetic oil... 0W20 is the way to go.
Go here to check out the oil discussions. Interesting stuff. Some of these guys are a bit nuts.

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php

[Tiger]

I have read some of the discussions and they contradict Bob's opinion. Oil zealots and people who has no idea what they are talking about. You have to think about it... If you have a mandated 5K drain interval, why waste your money on synthetic?

Then there are people who say Honda oil is better... umm... Honda doesn't make their own oil... and just because Honda last very long means Honda oil is that good? No explaination given.

The way I look at it is this... it all boils down to economic. How long are you going to keep your car? If long time, then synthetic... Then how long of interval? 5K? No freakin way... that's like paying oil company good money and then throw it away before it is needed. Oil analysis is way to test this. Then there is time involved... busy folks don't realize their time is so valuable... they would waste time at 4 oil changes when 1 is all they need.

As for oil... one better than another, peobably... but by how much? Does it prevent your alternator from going bad? Nope... from your shocks going bad? Nope... Do they at the least protect your engine, yes. Look at Bob's preference... almost no regular oil... Then there are people who said... Pennzoil Ultra is much better than Pennzoil Platinum and Valvoline... how so? Did they strip down their engine to measure the wear rate? Unlikely.

I have never done oil analysis. Good reason for this... in my case, we don't drive enough. We will hit our one year before we hit the mileage. We have many cars and don't drive each one enough.

Since most of our drive is local... 0W20 makes alot of sense. Bob's advice to a guy's Expedition... which was running 15W50 Mobil 1... get only 10MPG. Bob said to try 0w20 regular oil... the mileage increased by 3MPG to 13MPG... that's a whopping 33% increase! Instead of 300 miles, that guy can drive 400 miles with same amount of fuel! That's an extra 10 gallon saving... $25+... then multiply by how many miles you drive and how often you have to fill (and time to fill)... That's alot of money and time in one year.


Now I am a crazy dude.... right? :D

[Rick L]

Yes, you are a crazy dude. So am I for changing oil every 3500-4k miles with synthetic... :p



Now I am a crazy dude.... right? :D

[bubba966]

Well, the M60 in my M-Sport has run the best on Amsoil 0w30. much better than similar weights in Mobil1, synthetic Delo, and thicker weights in Amsoil. I don't know if I'd run 0w20 in it, but ow30 is excellent.

[Russell]

Well, the M60 in my M-Sport has run the best on Amsoil 0w30. much better than similar weights in Mobil1, synthetic Delo, and thicker weights in Amsoil. I don't know if I'd run 0w20 in it, but ow30 is excellent.
you have a very nice and special car-take care of it.

[Tiger]

I was skeptical of running 0W20 too... My Acura MDX runs on regular 0W20... had that car for 5 years now... 5 oil changes... super low mileage usage.

Now that I read Bob's lessons... I am much more confident to try it. But first, I have to reduce my stack of oil...

[Tiger]

Harsh condition as in what? Driving offroad, racing, or stuck in traffic idling??? Realistically, what percentage of people drive in harsh condition?

Bob wrote it clearly... for regular oil, it breaks down to the point of not enough protection. That is why there is 5w30 or 10w30 recommendation from Manufacturer... because they figured not everyone changed their regular dino oil at specified time so build a safety margin so they don't have to pay for warranty works for those cars.

Now, when it comes to synthetic, there is no 'breakdown' time... but rather additive protection exhaustion.

Look at all your family and friends cars who doesn't have your 'high protection' 15W50... how many of them actually have engine mechanical failure that is not caused by massive oil leak or low oil level or lack of coolant? Probably not even 1 case.

Then look at Bob's fleet of cars... he doesn't need to save 'gas.' He wants the best protection for his investments.

[Russell]

I was skeptical of running 0W20 too... My Acura MDX runs on regular 0W20... had that car for 5 years now... 5 oil changes... super low mileage usage.

Now that I read Bob's lessons... I am much more confident to try it. But first, I have to reduce my stack of oil...

There is a running argument between thick or thin oil people. Some say thin oils are great in cars that are designed for them. Others say thick oil for older cars.

All I know is my car's engine is quieter on heavier oil. It hated 0w40 oils. Sounded like a thrashing machine. 5w50 seemsed fine, 20w50 and so does 10w40 oils.

As for relaibility today's cars are heads and sholuders above cars in 50s and 60s whenit was common for rebuild at 50,000 miles. I am sure build tolerances and quality oil make a big difference.

[genphreak]

Harsh condition as in what? Driving offroad, racing, or stuck in traffic idling??? Realistically, what percentage of people drive in harsh condition?

Bob wrote it clearly... for regular oil, it breaks down to the point of not enough protection. That is why there is 5w30 or 10w30 recommendation from Manufacturer... because they figured not everyone changed their regular dino oil at specified time so build a safety margin so they don't have to pay for warranty works for those cars.

Now, when it comes to synthetic, there is no 'breakdown' time... but rather additive protection exhaustion.

Look at all your family and friends cars who doesn't have your 'high protection' 15W50... how many of them actually have engine mechanical failure that is not caused by massive oil leak or low oil level or lack of coolant? Probably not even 1 case.

Then look at Bob's fleet of cars... he doesn't need to save 'gas.' He wants the best protection for his investments.Indeed these are the key points.

I guess by harsh conditions I mean long hot days involving 'pushed' or heavily loaded use (towing on hot days for example). I appreciate the discussion, but suspect that our cars' oil pumps maintain the right oil pressure (at least mine don't after 200k km) using 'lighter' oils. I understand what Bob is on about, and I appreciate that few of us will ever use dino oil past the point where the additives break down. If my valvetrain gets noisy under load, I get concerned.

But ultimately- looking at Bob's lubrication 'science', I trust BMWs analysis and testing a whole lot more, even if at normal temperature the protection is very similar from 30 to 50 weight oil.

But you are right, no, I am yet to see anyone 'root' their engine using 'lighter' oil. However, I don't think anyone who does use such oil would think twice about selling it on once they notice small problems, or would even admit to it being root cause if they got a major one... That said, I doubt it will cause failures, I'd be concerned about premature wear more.