wtb e34 I've had it with this one

[tim eh?]

ok so 'I give'.

I am shopping for an '89/'90 to swap all the good parts over to. I just can't deal with this car anymore. I'm convinced that all of this is related to this mysterious electrical problem that I have been chasing ever since the car overheated but I just can't be bothered anymore and neither can anyone I try and take it to it seems.

On top of it needing 3 or 4 attempts to start, it runs very well/poorly intermittently. Sometimes I think it is running on only 3 or 4 cylinders I get such a serious collapse in power, especially when I 'floor' it, although sometimes flooring it gets rid of the problem and it will run perfectly. Really awful fuel consumption when it is running poorly and the exhaust stinks of gasoline. I used to get cel but not so much these days sometimes it just flashes and goes off. No codes stored.

Battery good, alternator good, cps good, cap/rotor/wires/plugs good, fuel pressure good, dme swapped, starter good, no vacuum leaks, injectors replaced, engine grounds replaced, main and fuel relays replaced I just don't want to do this anymore and if I take it to my mechanic he'll say "So where do you want me to start?" and this car just isn't worth that kind of a bill, especially with a cracked windshield, copuple rustspots, iffy driveshaft and who knows when the transmission is going to give?

One thing I have always wanted to test is if the [dme]-->[ignition coil] wire is good but I have no idea how to do that and I'm just too fed up and it's -15'c outside and I'd rather watch the football.

So somebody sell me a nice rust-free 89/90 525i please, preferably a black one and I think I would prefer a manual. I promise to take extra good care of it... will travel for fold down seats.

[Tiger]

How about those several main fuses/fusible links... some hidden... check them all?

[tim eh?]

yes there are two fusible links that i replaced and i recently checked them both no voltage drop and i wiggle them around when it is running and there is no change.

also checked all sensors they are all within spec i have done every single test i can find.

i am so certain that there is a short somewhere in the ignition sequence, some kind of rusted or burnt out connection somewhere in the ignition system causing a low/no spark situation, i am sure that this has been my problem all along but i just can't find it by just looking anymore and i don't think i am able to test the high voltage stuff in the backyard and i am just so sick of doing this to a $1000 car i just want a reliable m20 e34 that's all i don't mind spending some money and putting in time but i don't want to piss around on it unless it's going to pay off and it's just not going to anymore on this pos i'll just take all the good stuff off before i scrap it.

[Bruno]

Seems like you have an M20, I would check vacuum hoses and intake gaskets for vacuum leaks. (Spray some starter fluid of intake cleaner and see if the RPMs go up)
ANDDDDDD the crankshaft position sensor, check the resistance (see value in the Bentley), I had cars with the same problems that would also shut down and very poor idle with a damaged CPS, not completely dead though. You can also try to clean the dirt from it.

E34s are getting cheap, there is a lot of clean model in Kijijji or models with bad tranny or engine problems. Best is to import one from down south, my Touring is from Texas, no rust and super easy to work on.

[Ross]

Sorry to hear you are giving up, perhaps you should though. I've followed your saga and admired your determination.
Unless you are convinced your hard starting is electrical I'd have a check of the fuel pressure. Low pressure will cause, hard starting, poor mileage, rough running and due to porr atomization RICH running. After all you've been through it's an easy check.
Like Bruno said you ought to be looking in the dry southern states. I can tell you for sure( I always have an eye out for one) there are precious few rust free E34s around here. Bear in mind the tradeoff for rust free is sometimes a roasted interior.
Get yourself an M50 powered car.

[BMWDriver]

Here, apparently black and no rust... and local on top of that. Swap your engine to it and keep its electrics/electronics?
Though I suspect you'd have seen it.

Bmw 525i 1989 500$ - MONTREALRACING (http://montrealracing.com/forums/showthread.php?t=743097)

[tim eh?]

Thanks guys for the advice. I think I would prefer an m50 its just that i have so many good m20 parts i can use not to mention all the wacky parts you can find on an earlier model, but I am definitely also looking at the 91-95s in the classifieds. Phil that car is too far away and i dont really feel up to doing an engine swap in the backyard i mean i probably could but i dont want to, especially considering my motor is suspect anyway.

the problem is for sure electrical last time i ran the car it was almost stalling and the instrument cluster was alternating between german and english even though battery voltage was good. i am convinced there is just some kind of short somewhere but i know it is not on a fused circuit, i am sure this is the same problem i have been chasing for two years just that it is getting worse. fuel pressure is good on start and run, cps replaced, no vaccuum leaks that i can find... really appreciate the advice guys i know you know way more than me but this has got to be related to the electrical fault i have done all the typical stuff at least once if not a dozen times and nothing changes anything. Anyways I feel like i went to shop school with this car hopefully the experience will pay off on the next one.