How can a better night get worse?!?!?!...Well let me tell you!

[BMW4LIFE]

So tonight we win our championship basketball game 93-100 for me to only find out that when I was driving away my radiator busts! ahhhhhh!

So I bust out the hand flash light and see that when the upper hose connects to the radiator, the nossel that protrudes out of the radiator broke off. I decide to 'jimmy' it and put the hose back on but then remembered I needed to drive 20 min to my destination so I called a tow truck.

Now my question...I still have that plastic piece that was snapped off...Can I glue that bad boy back on with some heavy duty glue and be okay or do I need a new radiator?

And if I should glue it back on....which glue do you guys recommend? thanks!

[Tiger]

No glue or epoxy can take vibration, tension and pressure all at the same time for plastic. Better off with new radiator... you should be able to source a reasonable priced one.

[BMW4LIFE]

Behr of 170 shipped?

[mikell]

Had the same thing happen about 2 weeks ago - replacement is you only option, no glue. The Behr is good. Good luck

[BMW4LIFE]

Okay so I will leave the glue idea alone.

Now I want to change the thermostat too (should I?) but i do not know which one I need...88 or 92 degree C?

Also which radiator mounts do I need?

Your Parts Search Returned 2 Part(s) (http://www.autohausaz.com/search/product.aspx?sid=xycf1wf2xwi02145o5zfi045&makeid=800003@BMW&modelid=1012060@525I&year=1993&cid=16@Cooling%20System&gid=2200@Thermostat)

1993 BMW 525i

Thanks guys!!!

[Tiger]

$152 delivered at rockauto for Nissen... you can easily get another 5% off with coupon... just search on internet. So that's about $145.

Don't bother with thermostat unless something is wrong like overheating or not warm enough.

[BMW4LIFE]

Is Nissen better than Behr?

I want a new thermo because the water temp sits a notch over the middle line towards the hot so I was wondering if that would fix it.

[Tiger]

I have Nissen and I like them better than Behr... Behr is famous for cracking like you experienced. Nissen got a beefed up neck.

Normal temperature is at 1/2 mark... the middle. If it is just past the middle mark but still relatively middle point, normal. If it is at 3/4 mark, not normal. If on high side, maybe your waterpump is on the way out. I usually find waterpump on the way out along with radiator... if not at the same time... soon.

[BMW4LIFE]

Dang well I did not want to hear that about the water pump...I am planning on selling the car soon as I am leaving the country.

Now as far as the thermo goes...if I wanted to change it what temp should i get...88 or 92?

thanks

[Tiger]

I'd go for the 92... you might save more fuel. But it the needle going over the halfway mark that bothers you... then go for the 88.

[BMW4LIFE]

I know this sounds ignorant as heck but how does the the opening of the thermostat have anything to do with the fuel consumption?

Does the fan have to work harder? Water pump work harder?

[Russell]

sorry to hear that. Mine is on it's third radiator. First two were BMW OE. This time it is a Nissen. first had a broken neck, second a spilt seam.

Just colling system FYI. My thermostat has been in for at least 120,000 miles and seems to have failed OPEN. Therefore the car will not heat up well and runs 1/4 up, most of the time, on the temperature guage. I am using cardboard in fornt of the radiator to keep temp at 1/2 way. Will fix soon!

[Tiger]

It is extremely important not to overtighten the hose clamp... You don't need that much clamping power to stop leak. It is at the most 20PSI... very little.

[BMW4LIFE]

That may have been the reason why...I replaced the rad about 60k ago when my pastic propeller water pump blew up and the mechanic changed it all as that was way too advance for me at that time...

I drove the car around today and noticed that the hose and clamp is still holding with the broken neck...I think I will attempt this for awhile around town and see what happens.

I have a feeling I may be calling for AAA soon though! =/

[Tiger]

Temperature... ECU will calculate how much fuel to squirt based on engine temperature, AFM, and O2 data. Think of this way... when engine is cold, you need more fuel to start and run... when it is at operating temp, it is much leaner... 88 and 92 degree is a good I think 6 degree difference.