M50 Eng 4L30E Trans RRR - Far More Than I Ever Expected

[93 525 Paul]

This is a long story of my E34. Back in 2006 I started a thread on common oil leak sources.
http://www.bimmernut.com/forum/5-series-bmw/27254-common-oil-leak-sources.html
I didn't have much luck in stemming the tide of multiple leaks. Unfortunately this was a harbinger of the worst kind. I took the E34 from Fresno to SoCal for a Disneyland trip in 2009 and I made a fatal mistake in not regularly checking the oil level.
It went off song on the way back and I feared the worst.
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o284/pmcdougal/deadbeemer.jpg
Took it to a shop and they said HG, maybe worse. I said hang tight. Put it in the RV space in my side yard uncertain what I'd do with it and bought an E60. Shared my pain here.
http://www.bimmernut.com/forum/5-series-bmw/41917-catastrophic-head-gasket-failure.html

Thought it was a HG so did a bunch of reading, Pelican Parts, etc and convinced myself I could do the HG in my spare time. Deep breath. Dug into it. Horrible realization.
http://www.bimmernut.com/forum/5-series-bmw/42496-m50-worse-than-just-hg.html
1800 views and public discussion that the OP was the killer of this car. Aaaaagh.
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o284/pmcdougal/IMG_08191.jpg
I can't believe it. How could I be so stupid? Now I'm way into this car, it's in a zillion pieces. I'm responsible, I can't give it to charity like this. Holy crap! What now?
Well, I guess I need to throw a short block at it.
http://www.bimmernut.com/forum/5-series-bmw/43291-m50-short-block.html
...and yank the motor
http://www.bimmernut.com/forum/5-series-bmw/42570-removing-m50-engine.html
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o284/pmcdougal/BeemerEnginePull.jpg
So, so far I've pulled the head all apart (Pelican cam method) cleaned up the very heavy carbon deposits, cleaned the valves spinning them in the lathe took it to a machine shop for flat check, it passed.
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o284/pmcdougal/IMG00550.jpg

Lapped all 24 valves, leaked checked valves. Put solvent in CCs and blew compressed air in the ports.
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o284/pmcdougal/BeemerCC.jpg

Some leaked.
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o284/pmcdougal/IMG00548.jpg

Re-lapped leakers, reassembled it.
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o284/pmcdougal/IMG00549.jpg

Set the head aside and pulled the CraigsList shortblock apart. Will do rings and bearings. Got the hots to "freshen up" the tranny so I enlisted the help of a friend and bought an ATSG manual, a TranStar kit and several gallons of Simple Green Max and got busy. 178k miles, tranny probably needs a refresh right? Grubby before photos.
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o284/pmcdougal/TrannyBefore.jpg
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o284/pmcdougal/TrannyBefore3.jpg

Man there are a lot of parts in a 4L30E. Like 600. The internals looked brand new, the clutches are pristine, the seals a bit hard. Did find a broken belleville spring in the overrun clutch but nothing else. Cleaned it and reassembled in about a week of evenings and a few weekend day sessions. Tedious, particularly since I didn't buy the several hundred dollars of tools, improvising with my lathe, press and assortment of aluminum stock. Made a conical seal installer and the pump alignment tool on the lathe. And tons of time in the parts cleaner. Air checked all the clutch packs, double checked end play, pin bore clearance etc.
Cases (it has a separate overdrive case in front of the main case.)
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o284/pmcdougal/trannycases.jpg

4L30E is finished! Looking forward to installing it.
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o284/pmcdougal/TrannyAfter.jpg

Working the shortblock now. Don't like much of the CraigsList shortblock, may only end up using the block and caps and use everything else from mine. The front cover is corroded, the plunger in the oil pump is scored etc...
More updates to come.

[93 525 Paul]

Forgive my omissions. Many thanks to all the folks on here. You are my favorite tech board. Particularly Dave M, Ross, Whiskey Chaser, Ryan Roop, Bill R and any others I should mention.
Emailed pdfs of key info, photo help on the head removal, PMs with "hey dummy, you need to..." info. Big help.

[632 Regal]

Nice job Paul!

[93 525 Paul]

Thanks Regal. Owning a business, having two kids in sports (comp soccer, indoor soccer, basketball, spring soccer, spring baseball, all-star baseball, cross-country, basketball, track) and other activities (dance, piano, boy scouts, girl scouts, theater) makes it hard to make time to do this stuff.
I enjoy it (when things go right) but my wife thinks I'm craaaaaazy. Her dad is an academic and she has all sisters.

So at this point I have both shortblocks pulled all the way down. Will take the replacement version in for hot tanking and a hone.

Also, I put the wrong pic in there for head reassembly. This is what the head looks like. Not all covered in varnish like that pre assembly shot I used, all clean and tidy and reassembled using the gnome condoms (valve stem covers) to keep the seals intact and graphite based assembly lube.

http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o284/pmcdougal/Beemer003.jpg

And when I said the frictions in the tranny were fresh, I meant it. They all mic out as new and on this set of smooth frictions, you can see the ink writing on them. The frictions were very lightly scuffed.

http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o284/pmcdougal/Beemer001.jpg

[93 525 Paul]

Working the shortblock now. Don't like much of the CraigsList shortblock, may only end up using the block and caps and use everything else from mine. The front cover is corroded, the plunger in the oil pump is scored etc...
More updates to come.

Well, I said that exactly to the day a YEAR ago. I have in that time decided to only use the bare shortblock (block, main caps, crank, rods and pistons) because all my stuff was in better shape. Had the block hot tanked and honed and bought all the rebuild items. Started to do the short block assembly this time last year and baseball season for my son started (coaching) and poof there went every spare moment through summer all stars. Spent fall working on my Lincoln (Klincoln? with leaking sunroof, dying COPs, failing timing chain tensioners etc.) So I'm back in the saddle.
Block all cleaned, painted, ready.
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o284/pmcdougal/PreppedBlock.jpg
I've installed the crank with new bearing inserts, standard, it (no surprise) mics out as new. I've assembled and installed all the carefully cleaned piston assemblies with spotless ring grooves, nice new ring packs, new bearings.
Here I'm using my printed protractor to tighten the mains and rods to the proper torque angle. 20nm then 50* for the mains and 20nm then 70* for the rods.
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o284/pmcdougal/Torqueangle.jpg
Seems backwards, seems like that's a HUGE amount of torque for the rod capscrews to hold. Well, mother Beemer knows best.
Hoping to finish the entire engine assembly this weekend. Kid's not playing baseball this season, golf team and no coaching for me.

[genphreak]

What a great read. Mate you've got it all happening there. When it comes together, it will be glorious in the full Roman sense of the word. Regardless of anyone else knowing! Persistence with practice makes perfect, and that one will be! I love the M50, its got a special character which is all about balance, design and accuracy. I'm going to swap mine to a megasquirt ecu on one of mine one day soon, but it is hard as the stock ECU, MAF, integration to the car, etc. is excellent as it is.

Really good to see a nice build happening too!

[93 525 Paul]

What a great read. Mate you've got it all happening there. When it comes together, it will be glorious in the full Roman sense of the word. Regardless of anyone else knowing! Persistence with practice makes perfect, and that one will be! I love the M50, its got a special character which is all about balance, design and accuracy. I'm going to swap mine to a megasquirt ecu on one of mine one day soon, but it is hard as the stock ECU, MAF, integration to the car, etc. is excellent as it is.

Really good to see a nice build happening too!

Thanks genphreak. There is a certain class and dignity to the M50.
After such a boneheaded move, I felt a duty to get her back up and running.
I'm hoping that lots of attention to detail will pay off on this deal.

Here's the oil pump all cleaned up, man it's a nice piece, beautiful aluminum body, the magnesium cover flat sanded, ready for pre-lube and reassembly.
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o284/pmcdougal/oilpump-1.jpg
Here's the short block with the crank, rods, pistons and snazzy freeze plugs.
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o284/pmcdougal/shortblock1.jpg
I didn't shoot a pic but at this time I now have the timing chain, the guide rails, the oil pump and drive chain, the front cover, dampener/pulley all installed.
Hoping to have the pan and head on in the next couple days. Gotta keep it moving.

[whiskychaser]

Its a brave man that takes on an engine and a transmission rebuild at one time:-) I am really impressed with your preparation and how clean everything looks. Great stuff

[genphreak]

Hahhah... more 'M pr0n'! Do shoot more close-ups of all the booty on that sweet piece of black metal... as yo get the tiem and inclination.

The pump is a nice piece of work. Are you swapping the drive sprocket? I can't see how bad it is but on the M30s I know the sprocket teeth wear sharp too but you have to put in a new chain and both sprockets else they will chew each other to bits in time. They don't cost much and make for good piece of mind.

[Dave M]

Well, done. You've got lots going on with kids and activities. I did my rebuild pre-kids (now have two) so appreciate your stick-to-it-edness, granted, with long pauses bertween periods of recalling where you left off and frenetic knuckle scraping.

Yes, the oil pump is a beautiful piece, very simple. Looks like something a hundred years old with its little sprocket and springs. Its a shame to hide in the bowels of your M50.

Anyhow, keep up the good work and have fun.

Dave

[93 525 Paul]

Its a brave man that takes on an engine and a transmission rebuild at one time:-) I am really impressed with your preparation and how clean everything looks. Great stuff

Thanks! Brave or dumb, hard to tell the difference sometimes. Plain scary to think of all the little things that could crop up on restart. I started out thinking this was a HG job and I just got sucked further and further into the abyss. At one point I was going to yank the engine and was advised that pulling the engine AND tranny is smarter. Then, the "hey, the tranny is right there, it has 178k on it..." Yikes. On the cleanliness I've gotten more deliberate as I've gotten older. The "Clean room wipes" I learned about on Pelican Parts are a God send. My stainless steel workbench is easy to keep clean and that Simple Green Max works really well. Ziploc bags are really handy too.


Hahhah... more 'M p0rn'! Do shoot more close-ups of all the booty on that sweet piece of black metal... as yo get the time and inclination.
The pump is a nice piece of work. Are you swapping the drive sprocket? I can't see how bad it is but on the M30s I know the sprocket teeth wear sharp too but you have to put in a new chain and both sprockets else they will chew each other to bits in time. They don't cost much and make for good piece of mind.

Yeah, I wish I shot more photos of the tranny build, you never regret having too many photos. The pump photo doesn't show it but the oil pump drive sprocket looked new. Having worked in a bike shop for 7 years and raced karts for 8 years, I know sprocket wear patterns and that sprocket is pristine. Yes, at $33 the pump sprocket isn't much but the low mechanical resistance and precision chain manufacturing have left that sprocket perfect. What kills a sprocket is chain stretch. When the chain stretches it is too long to mesh perfectly with the gear and at it meshes it wears the shoulders off of the gear. I will shoot a pic, but I'm tellin' you, it's remarkable in its condition. Although I lead the league in second-guessing, that one is a slam dunk.

Thanks for your comments.

[93 525 Paul]

Not much progress the last couple days. Didn't recall that there was a gasket between the oil pickup and the pump. Pickup was warped so I flat sanded it on a glass block I use for surfacing and it looks perfect.
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o284/pmcdougal/oilpickup-1.jpg
Real OEM shows a gasket (#7)
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o284/pmcdougal/OilPumpSchematic.jpg
So I guess if the dealer doesn't have it I will make one.

Also, the pump gear pic, it's a bit fuzzy, but you see the teeth are nice and wide shouldered, no wear at all
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o284/pmcdougal/pumpgear1.jpg

And a pic of how the pump just gleams sitting on the block. Shot shows front cover and damper installed
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o284/pmcdougal/PumpGear.jpg

By the way, do I HAVE to use the lighter damper that came with the 325 shortblock or can I go with the nicer heavier e34 dampener?

[ryan roopnarine]

No. 7 was part of a TSB for engine ping caused by air being sucked in with oil--they have to have it somewhere. I don't remember how much it was when I bought it, but I'm sure that it was some rediculous amount like $15 or such.

[93 525 Paul]

No. 7 was part of a TSB for engine ping caused by air being sucked in with oil--they have to have it somewhere. I don't remember how much it was when I bought it, but I'm sure that it was some ridiculous amount like $15 or such.

Dealer didn't have it so I made one from gasket material. Maybe I'm lucky they didn't...



I...appreciate your stick-to-it-edness, granted, with long pauses between periods of recalling where you left off...
Dave

Well trying to recall where I left off and where I left stuff. Thought it was all in two places, bagged and tagged. Not entirely, couldn't find the dowels that go between the block and head, so I couldn't install the head. Tried to make a couple of dowels but they fit the block and I assumed they'd fit the head as well, but NOOOOO. Couldn't get the head to drop down over the dowels. So, eff it, found the part numbers and ordered some from theBMWPartStore.com. Worth checking them out, they have a nice search dealie where you put in your parts numbers and it gives you the item description and price. Good pricing, comparable to the best, BMA, AutoHausAZ and the rest.

Here she is with the front cover and pan on
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o284/pmcdougal/enginepannohead-1.jpg
Cheers!

[93 525 Paul]

Dayum. Just installed the head last night and torquing the head bolts (new) to 22 ft lb then 90* then another 90* was a chore. I weigh 200 and lift weights and can bench 140% of my body weight but that was a b*tch. Even using a breaker bar. Man, I needed more leverage and a less top heavy engine/engine stand setup. Holy crap!

[93 525 Paul]

The bagged and tagged bits are coming in handy about now. Many of the baggies are empty and the engine stand is starting to feel like it has a load on it.
Head on, primary chain installed, timed. Used a 1/2" socket in the chain tensioner collar finger tight to put manual tension on the chain. Secondary chain installed, timed, clocked and ready for Vanos installation. On hold at the minute awaiting the Beisan o-ring kit. Vanos piston seemed awfully free in the bore and on further inspection the o-ring under the teflon ring (the one that's supposed to provide wall tension) is hard as rock. Viton o-ring and a new teflon o-ring ordered.

Long block with few accessories
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o284/pmcdougal/LongBlock1-1.jpg

Long block with some of the accessories installed, vanos housing sitting in place, no piston in the bore just yet.
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o284/pmcdougal/LongBlock2.jpg

[93 525 Paul]

Got a bit of work done over the weekend. Stormy weather was perfect for some garage time.
Rebuilt the vanos with the kit from Beisan Systems and followed their directions. The old o-ring beneath the teflon o-ring was hard as a rock and provided virtually no wall tension. The new viton o ring (not exactly a bargain at $30 for a viton o-ring and a teflon 0-ring but hey, it made sense) provides really good wall tension. Huge difference in manually moving the vanos piston old versus new.
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o284/pmcdougal/VanosRebuild-1.jpg

Followed the pelicanparts.com instructions on vanos installation, better than the others I've seen. He makes the point that you want the "first slot" when you have the ex cam sprocket bolts loose and have the secondary chain turned all the way clockwise before you insert the vanos gear. As the gear is inserted the secondary chain will turn back to the left a bit, counterclockwise. What isn't pointed out is that you can try the vanos gear in several positions until you minimize how far CC the secondary chain assy has to turn. In this pic I show an engagement that is a half tooth off. I found one that was almost spot on. You have to expect mother Beemer did that for a reason.
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o284/pmcdougal/VanosDrivecu.jpg

and buttoned up the top end. Left the spark plugs and COPs off for now. I want to spin it with the starter with the plugs out to build oil pressure before firing it. Background is cluttered, but I couldn't leave the Super Cobra Jet Mustang out in the hail.
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o284/pmcdougal/camcoveron1-1.jpg

[93 525 Paul]

May be a good idea to start a 4L30E rebuild thread. There were several lessons therein, but one of the best things I did was download and read a document I found at http://scottj.info/files/isuzu/4l30e.pdf it's titled "GENERAL MOTORS® Hydra-Matic 4L30-E automatic transmission Assembly manual by Hans Verhoeven New Zealand 2008" and it's pure gold. Nicely written step by step assembly with good color pics and part by part references all including the part name and reference number. I read it several times and printed it out in color and put it in a binder. Also got the ATSG manual that is in b/w and uses illlustrations. On tear down I used a zillion baggies and used the numbers from the reference chart. God bless Hans Verhoeven...

[Russell]

Very impressive. You got skills!

[93 525 Paul]

So I have the remanned tc in there and mated the tranny to the engine. Have the hoist and am readying to poke it in there. Before I do, I want to fill the tranny. Pelican Technical Article: BMW Automatic Transmission Fluid Change (http://www.pelicanparts.com/bmw/techarticles/E36-Tranny_Fluid_Auto/E36-Tranny_Fluid_Auto.htm)
recommends I drop the front sump pan and fill it and install it. Worth the trouble and new gasket or no? Was thinking I'd lean the engine tranny over on its side a bit and overfill it a skosh rather than drop the front pan...

[bimmer nut]

So I have the remanned tc in there and mated the tranny to the engine. Have the hoist and am readying to poke it in there. Before I do, I want to fill the tranny. Pelican Technical Article: BMW Automatic Transmission Fluid Change (http://www.pelicanparts.com/bmw/techarticles/E36-Tranny_Fluid_Auto/E36-Tranny_Fluid_Auto.htm)
recommends I drop the front sump pan and fill it and install it. Worth the trouble and new gasket or no? Was thinking I'd lean the engine tranny over on its side a bit and overfill it a skosh rather than drop the front pan...

Not exactly sure what to tell you on dropping the front sump to fill or not. If they recommend it, I'd say just do it.

I do want to thank you for sharing your project with us, and all the great pictures as well. Best of luck, and please do let us know how it all ends.

I'm not wanting to hijack your thread, but if you take your time, you can do anything. I'm proof, I did a 5hp24 rebuild all by myself a while back and that sucker is still running 3 years later: http://www.bimmernut.com/forum/5-series-bmw/41972-i-did-rebuilt-5hp24.html#post328268
I've actually been very proud of that rebuild, I thought it was quite an accomplishment. I know by the looks of what you been doing, your's will be successful also.

[93 525 Paul]

I do want to thank you for sharing your project with us, and all the great pictures as well. Best of luck, and please do let us know how it all ends. I did a 5hp24 rebuild all by myself a while back and that sucker is still running 3 years later. Ive actually been very proud of that rebuild, I thought it was quite an accomplishment.

I agree, pulling apart something with 600+ parts in it, cleaning it thoroughly and putting it back together is definitely an accomplishment. Congrats on yours, fingers crossed on mine. Good news was mine was operating fine when I pulled it, nothing wrong other than hard seals and 178k miles.

Am going to pull the output shaft sensor and fill it from the top of the tail housing. Have one other bug, the seals for the trans cooler line are shown incorrectly on realoem.com so I guess I will have to go to the stealership on Monday to get the correct seals. It shows this with 2 o ring attachments:
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o284/pmcdougal/transcoolerlinefittingwrong.jpg

But I have one pipe attached as above and one like this:
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o284/pmcdougal/transcoolerlinefitting.jpg

Since the latter is "not correct for my car" real OEM won't show me a part number or description. Always a twist...

[93 525 Paul]

So the '93 does in fact have the earlier part and lucky me, the gasket/washers are only $8 each, two with tax. Dayum.
So remember the "pulling the motor" photo from Jan '10? Yeah, me neither. Here is a comparo of pull versus poke.
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o284/pmcdougal/OutandIn.jpg

And now she is resting on the mounts, back where she belongs, after a loooooooong stint on the engine stand.
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o284/pmcdougal/1009.jpg

[genphreak]

Terrific to see that going back in. Youmust be stoked to be getting it running again. It'll be better than new now, and you never have to worry about the engine again. Really nice work... whatever you do, keep posting and letting us know the ups and downs of the process!

[bimmer nut]

Great job, please do let us know how she runs. I've often wondered why it all get so dirty inside there (I know, I know, oil grease and road dirt, but still). Shiny and new looks absolutely great.

[632 Regal]

Been following this rebuild from the start with nothing to add.

http://cache.blippitt.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/Popcorn-02-Stephen-Colbert.gif

[Ferrett 1962]

looks great from the photo's every time I check in I go straight to this feed if there is any new posts. I think we all want to hear more and I think you will hear a huge cheer when it is running.

[genphreak]

It'll look nice once the bay is cleaned up and there's no bulldust around the place. Guessing it needs to be running first, so she can go outside for a bath... ? Is she zinnerbrot?

[93 525 Paul]

It'll look nice once the bay is cleaned up and there's no bulldust around the place. Guessing it needs to be running first, so she can go outside for a bath... ? Is she zinnerbrot?

Thanks for all the comments, much appreciated. Brillantrot in need of a polish. Yes, she's really dirty in those photos and that shows poorly. The issue is she is in my side yard, concrete paved, surrounded by fence, commonly called an RV space. The mow, blow and go guys blow a lot of crap around but don't ever seem to blow the car off. With the hood set in place for a long time, I was reluctant to wash her and get water all down in the electrical connections. So after we (my 13YO son has been helping) dropped it in, we reinstalled the hood and washed her well. I even took a buffer and some "color restore" to the hood and fenders and she cleaned up very nicely. Will shoot a photo to prove it.
Even though before dropping in the engine, we spent an hour or so with some "Simple Green" cleaner a scotchbrite pad and a scrub brush, we didn't get all the grime, but we got a TON of it.
Since dropping the engine/tranny in we've connected the driveshaft, the tranny electricals, the shifter, the trans crossmember, the bellhousing mounts, the motor mounts, the A/C compressor, the PS pump, the alternator, the exhaust manifolds.
More to come, thanks for the nudge.

[attackeagle]

nicely done.

[93 525 Paul]

Thanks for all the comments, much appreciated. Brillantrot in need of a polish. Yes, she's really dirty in those photos and that shows poorly. So after we (my 13YO son has been helping) dropped it in, we reinstalled the hood and washed her well. I even took a buffer and some "color restore" to the hood and fenders and she cleaned up very nicely. Will shoot a photo to prove it.
More to come, thanks for the nudge.

She did spiff up nicely. Still fiddling with all the connections beneath the intake mani. Want to get that on this weekend...
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o284/pmcdougal/1014_zpsca8594d3.jpg

Shiny!!!
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o284/pmcdougal/1015_zps64cc00b6.jpg

[93 525 Paul]

Damn. Didn't even touch it last weekend. Won't touch it this weekend either, with a speaking engagement last night, a black tie affair tonight, comp soccer and the FSU Bulldogs football vs San Diego State tomorrow night and more soccer Sunday...OMG.

[93 525 Paul]

Woohoo. Fresno State football team beat the crap out of San Diego State and had some impressive stretches. Go Dogs.

OK, back to the Bimmer. Daughter said my favorite thing was "riding the couch" so I have not since she said that. Ouch...I CAN make some progress in short bursts avoiding the couch. Back away from the 50" hi def!!! I even missed MNF to work on this thing. (Monday Night Football for the non US residents.)

Here's the intake side before I yanked the engine and tranny. Tell tale and troublesome long term oil leaks from the cam cover. (cuss words)
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o284/pmcdougal/Beemer009_zpsd5360a36.jpg

Here's the intake side last night about 6p Pacific time. I was worried as hell installing the intake since it really covers EVERYTHING. I did replace all the small coolant hoses, the big spider hose and connected the "mystery ground" down low on the side of the block where the wiring loom support bracket bolts on. Hope that's right.
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o284/pmcdougal/1026.png

Here's the intake side last night about 10p Pacific after some work, having to run to the parts store and break for dinner. The fuel line from the hard line under the intake to the hard line on the fuel rail was hard as rock.
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o284/pmcdougal/Untitled-1.png

Darn close to firing. Just a vacuum hose needed (old one cracked) for brake booster to intake, gotta find the damn fan shroud (where could it be?) Oh and I get to remove and re install the cam cover. (More cuss words here.) I freaking forgot the fargin' plastic thing that goes over one of the cams. I found it in the trunk when I was putting the intake shrouds back on. (Cuss words, head slap, more cussing...)

[93 525 Paul]

http://www.101projects.com/BMW/Projects/009/images/DSC05509.JPG

That plastic cover over the intake cam.

[93 525 Paul]

She runs! What was the quote?

What a great read. Mate you've got it all happening there. When it comes together, it will be glorious in the full Roman sense of the word. Regardless of anyone else knowing! Persistence with practice makes perfect, and that one will be!
Really good to see a nice build happening too!
That one quote, "...it will be glorious in the full Roman sense of the word" has been rattling around in my head since Genphreak wrote it.
Late last night got her to fire. Wooo freaking HOOO!!!
Long time snoozing is now over. Just ran her a bit, need to bleed the coolant. At first she didn't want to idle so I just ran her a minute. Got out checked leaks, nada. Gave her a once over, checked the oil level. Re fired right away, sounded a bit less noisy, settled down, let her idle up to temp, ran the tranny through the gears (she is still on jack stands.)
Can't wait to get home and get her off the jack stands and get her moving for the first time in a LOOOOOONG while.

[93 525 Paul]

No reaction at all eh? Tough crowd I guess.

Got the beauty off the jack stands, bled the coolant, took her around the block. Kind of surprised all the gears work, and she shifts beautifully. Was almost expecting there to be some tranny problems. Still very preliminary, very tight feeling. Double checked everything and let her cool.
Took her for a longer drive the second time, let the revs come up to about 3k. She smoothed out, was definitely feeling more like the old girl. Idling more normally, quieter. Let her cool again, washed her and cleaned her up a bit. Drove her across town to a soccer game for my daughter and she was feeling GREAT. Stopped on the way back at my brother's house and by a friend's (he was the former pro wrench.) All smiles, lots of pats on the back.
Again today took her out and about and just need to do a few things:
Add more tranny fluid, she will cavitate after a quick stop
Super clean the insides of the windows
Enter the stereo code
Figure out why the windows don't work, thinking fuse
Recharge the A/C
So stoked.

[Ferrett 1962]

Congratulations on a good job, glad to hear she is rolling again. I read the previous post but didn't want to jinx you by jumping the gun but glad to hear all is starting out well and another e34 will live again. If not fuses for the windows I know my rear windows stick since I don't use them and with a bit of help they work again ( can hear a noise when I try to use them but no movement but with a bit of help to get started they start working) could just be from sitting in the sun for so long.

[genphreak]

Ahhh that's so dam good to read. Really enjoyed the pics and the comments moit, you've done the family (and us) proud there... plugging away and then kazooom! She runs spot-on! That's the thing, you put up with working the BMW way, not forcing, checking, et al, ... doing things in the occasionally non-apparent way... it pays off in the end as once buttoned up, it works the way it should.

The legions will write your name in stone aqueducts, roads and buildings everywhere they go from now on!

Can't wait to see that engine bay all spruced uo!

With the tranny- be sure to use a thermometer and the right procedure- it isn't hard but needs to be precisely carried out on many M50 (at least the ZF) trannies. incorrect levels can cause prompt failure. Cavitation noise is not a good sign I guess you know, but will fix ;)

I just fixed the ECU in mine, after chasing every possible cause otherwise- it turned out that one group of cylinders was not firing right all the time. Damn thing goes so smooth and pulls so well now, can pull away in traffic in third from only 750rpm up hills, finally... M50 powaugh!!!

Hope you enjoy the re-awakening of that sweet red mistress and get to take her out in public regularly from now on...

[Russell]

The rear windows could be from lack of use. If so, they may have stuck in the track/regulators and srtipped the gears in the motors. I went ahead and replaced the motor and regulators in both of my rear doors at different times. Bit of a pain as the regulators are riveted in.

[93 525 Paul]

Ahhh that's so dam good to read. Really enjoyed the pics and the comments moit, you've done the family (and us) proud there... plugging away and then kazooom!

Hope you enjoy the re-awakening of that sweet red mistress and get to take her out in public regularly from now on...

Yes, it's been a bit surreal. Never would have done it had I known, but now, looking back, well worth the lack of TV time. Couch be damned!!!
No engine bay shots just yet, more cleaning to do.

Exteriors? Yes, last evening at the ballpark for some Fall Ball.

http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o284/pmcdougal/Untitled-4.jpg

http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o284/pmcdougal/Untitled-3.jpg

http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o284/pmcdougal/1031.jpg

Showing her to baseball dads who don't "get it" is a bit frustrating. Ah well. I know and my Bimmernut mates from across the globe know...

[93 525 Paul]

Oh also, the tranny is the GM (my anti-Obama brother calls them "Government Motors") 4L30E so it's not one of the ZF units. The Isuzu Trooper crowd seems to have posted generously on how to get the fluid level correct. When it cavitates, it makes no sound, just falls into a neutral state for a moment.
On the windows, all 4 don't work (and yes they could all be stuck from 3 years) the moonroof doesn't and the central locking doesn't either. So I need to get after the fuse checking.

[93 525 Paul]

Took her to the CA Smog Inspection station and....SHE PASSED!!!
No way in creation I thought that would happen first try. Visions of all sorts of reasons for failing. Whew!!! How crazy is that? Her twenty year old catalytic is doing the deed! Incredible.



Oh also, the tranny is the GM (my anti-Obama brother calls them "Government Motors") 4L30E so it's not one of the ZF units. The Isuzu Trooper crowd seems to have posted generously on how to get the fluid level correct. When it cavitates, it makes no sound, just falls into a neutral state for a moment.
On the windows, all 4 don't work (and yes they could all be stuck from 3 years) the moonroof doesn't and the central locking doesn't either. So I need to get after the fuse checking.


Got the fluid topped off with no mess on my driveway (wowzer.) All the rest was just a fuse as suspected and every thing except the stereo is all good. My stereo seems fine, the code entry beeps when I enter the 5 digits but it just stays in CODE mode and doesn't transition to radio. Have tried countless times. Where do I send it to get it fixed????

So happy on the smog

[genphreak]

Ahhh such a good ending, still waiting for the money shot though!

There is nothing like the feeling of success against adversity when one finishes major surgery on a bimmer. Def. worth an entire weekend of beer drinking goodness in the garage.

Radio Code? If it doesn't respond to the correct code, you can follow the various guides around (See shogun's pages for the good oil on that) or just put in a new one :)

I recently added a new Nakamichi 625 for AUD$89 w iPod, USB et al to the daily. Works well, except for the am radio of course. JVC have a really nice one (a Ksomething503?) which has bluetooth handsfree as well- that'd be the one I'd go for - its only AUD$159 here. There are cooler radios, but these are usable and do what I need.

EDIT: Don't forget to post high def engine bay pics!!!

... and again- well done :) it has been a most wholesome journey!

[Ferrett 1962]

I changed my radio for an Alpine CDE-103EBT straight in with an adaptor plug from Jaycar it has USB, Ipod, bluetooth hands free and colour change display that can be set to red-orange to sort of match the display of the BMW so it dosn't look too out of place.

[93 525 Paul]

I like the idea of a plug and play on the Alpine w Jaycar adaptor. My kid will dig the USB iPod hooey. Great info. I will dig around for Shogun's tips on the original, but like the Alpine option a lot.
HAH! I forgot the money shot of the engine compartment - will do that this week since the weather has been so nice. 70's yesterday 80's today. Might even post up a video of the thing running. As the NBA players say, "smoooove"
"Success against adversity" is a great way to put it. I honest to God am still stunned how smoothly the startup, run in, smog check etc. have all gone. One of the reasons I dicked around for so long putting on the intake is that I was scared sh*tless that it would have major problems and I'd be so pissed off I wouldn't be good company for the family.
Very thankful.

[Ferrett 1962]

The jaycar plug I got was for the e36 so I had to change some wires around but the head unit went in with no problems, there is little room to play with behind the dash so size is important here. I used the wiring instructions from the e34 website and simple matching from the units instructions to set it up and it sounds great with this unit, it has some settings that allows you to set for the best from the speakers you have in your car. Hard to explain but if you search on line for specs you will see. Mine does not stream music from bluetooth that is only for the phone, other units may do that but the phone is clear and very handy.

[shogun]

As my buddy just brought to our wrenching place a Jatco trans for disassembling and study I started searching for repair manuals and parts lists , the small metal tag on the trans mentions Jatco GB0100E, 4.52.11060 and that did not give any good results in the internet. Then I found the following with google

Makco sells the ATSG manual http://www.makcotransmissionparts.com/24400E.html
http://www.makcotransmissionparts.com/manuals.html
4L30-E is also used in BMW as we all know, so I searched with that and also found our old thread here:

GENERAL MOTORS Hydra-Matic 4L30-E automatic ... scottj.info/files/isuzu/4l30e.pdf

http://www.search-document.com/pdf/1/atsg-automatic-transmission-repair-manual-4l80e.html
http://www.bimmernut.com/forum/showthread.php/43339-M50-Eng-4L30E-Trans-RRR-Far-More-Than-I-Ever-Expected
http://www.network54.com/Forum/436002/thread/1350005505/last-1350970827/BMW+back+from+the+dead

[PDF]4L30E (AR25, AR35) - Automatic Choice www.automaticchoice.com/uploads/producten/pdfs/Catalogue/4l30e.pdf
4L30E Automatic Transmission Tech Tips and Fixes Presented By Precision International https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0osUS9JEbR8

http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?1547365-E36-4L30E-Rebuild
http://www.transmissionpartsusa.com/4L30E_transmission_parts_s/1120.htm

PDF Automatic Transmission Overhaul.pdf - Files http://files.spectralcoding.com/files/misc/catera/Automatic%20Transmission%20Overhaul.pdf

http://www.txchange.com/atsg.htm

which trans is used on which model http://worldwidepartsoutlet.com/Vehicleindex/Vehicle%20Index.htm

http://forum.planetisuzoo.com/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=61780&start=25

http://www.autorepairmanuals.ws/f170/gm-4l30e-transmisson-repair-manual-363/

[whiskychaser]

Is it an A5S300J from an E34?

[shogun]

Not sure if from E34, maybe you know what it is:
The tag at the end of the tranny : Jatco GB0100E , 4.52.11060
On the side of the housing there is a sticker:
JATCO Y OE
45211 06 YOE
1421870
JR 502 E - B GB 010

wiki: "Many OEM users assign new numbers, and Jatco has switched to a new scheme starting with "J" for Jatco, "F" or "R" for front- or rear-wheel drive. The next digit is the number of gears, while the model series is now two digits sequentially. The model series names do not map directly — although the RE4R03A became the JR403E, the unrelated RE4F04A became the JF403E."

JR 502 E - B GB 010 : Based on this it would be a Jatco, rear wheel drive, 5 - speed, ????

Based on that list, probably for the US market (?) http://worldwidepartsoutlet.com/Vehicleindex/Vehicle%20Index.htm
325i, Ci, Xi 2001-05 L6, 2.5L 5L40E
325i 1992-95 L6, 2.5L 4L30E
323i 1992-99 L6, 2.5L 4L30E
323i 2000 L6, 2.5L 5L40E
X3 2004-06 2.5, 3.0L 5L40E
X5 2000-06 3.0L 5L40E
E34 525i 1991-95 L6, 2.5L 4L30E
E39 525i 2001-03 2.5, 3.0L 5L40E
528i 1996-99 L6, 2.8L 4L30E
528i 2000 L6, 2.8L 5L40E
Z3 1996-00 L4, 1.9L, 2.8L 4L30E
Z3 2001-02 2.5i, 3.0iL 5L40E
Z4 2003-06 2.5, 3.0L 5L40E

Confusing, confusing.......

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_Jatco_transmissions

[632 Regal]

Wow... I re-read this whole thread. I remember this and every moment an addition was posted. Brings back quite a bit of memories too. Fantastic job and read, reminds me of good days.

[93 525 Paul]

Wow... I re-read this whole thread. I remember this and every moment an addition was posted. Brings back quite a bit of memories too. Fantastic job and read, reminds me of good days.

Wow, that is really weird because I just did the EXACT same thing and thought the same thing as well. I re-read the whole thread, although my memory was not all that clear and the re-read freshened up and filled in some memory gaps.

The reason I did the re-read was because I stumbled upon a similar but better thread from a really good dude over on bimmerfest. I have an E60 550i N62N and a guy crazier than me did an engine RRR on his E60 545i N62 so I read his at http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?t=731948 and thought of mine. If you have the hours, his is really worthwhile as he did an alusil quad vanos V8 with crazy valve gear. Hell of a read.

So I had to re-read and re-live mine. Wish I had documented the tranny rebuild. Either way, thanks for all the kind words. Hardest and best thing I've ever done car-wise.

[632 Regal]

I just read the whole 32 page thread, wow... I really don't know if I could do that, especially with all those funds for new parts and tools and all. It reads as he did this all alone in an open garage in the winter in NC. NC isn't bad as MI but I'm now in TN and it's 27 degree, not good wrenching weather to me even with gloves. I don't think I will move up to those newer Bimmers, like the E34 and that is as complex as I would want to go.

The new 530 is a total turd compared to Nikka and does not even turn on til it hits 3800 RPM, Might be sensors but who knows. This engine is very clean though, think it was replaced once too, burns zero oil too. Cams could be off but could be simple as a sensor. No clue how to even test this kind of issue. Than again I never checked what plugs are in it yet. 27* not going to check this too soon.

[93 525 Paul]

I just read the whole 32 page thread, wow... I really don't know if I could do that...It reads as he did this all alone in an open garage in the winter in NC.

The new 530 is a total turd compared to Nikka and does not even turn on til it hits 3800 RPM,

I like driving the E60 550i because it has a lot of push, super smooth, fast. Pretty awesome. The thought of tearing it all the way down though is nothing short if terrifying. That pextel kid has big balls and some serious determination. Like Navy Seal/Ninja master sack.

On the 530, my wife's 07 525i has 215 hp and it's got about the same acceleration as the 189hp 93 525i. I like the E34 much more, all the sensors and such on the E60 are a total annoyance. That E60 has had a cam position sensor fail (P0015 Cam position actuator, timing over-retarded) $70 sensor. AND it's had the DTML pump fail, P2402 EVAP Emissions system leak detection pump control circuit ($100 pump) and the COP units failed, i don't recall how much the Bosch COPs were, oh and the starter, and leaky oil cooler gasket, leaky filter housing gasket, cracked fuel gauge sending unit. All that before 120k miles while the E34 has had far fewer issues in 180k. More electronics equals more trouble.

[93 525 Paul]

As of about ten minutes ago.

http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o284/pmcdougal/IMG952015032795070307_zps6ezzziul.jpg[/URL]

How about them apples?
Almost 30k on the rebuild and regular compliments on her beauty.

[632 Regal]

As of about ten minutes ago.

http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o284/pmcdougal/IMG952015032795070307_zps6ezzziul.jpg[/URL]

How about them apples?
Almost 30k on the rebuild and regular compliments on her beauty.

Almost broken in now, once she is you can flog the daylights out of her and unleash the full potential!

[genphreak]

It's the plastic bits in the engine that get me. Not just water pumps but simple things like valves that prevent oil drain from the head and other locations like the filter housing. Any plastic items inside the engine is asking for trouble. Deteriorates fast and painfully hard to repair. They did it to all the V8s and V12s after 2000 (and some before) and risking what little remains of their reputation for quality.

[93 525 Paul]

It's the plastic bits in the engine that get me. Not just water pumps but simple things like valves that prevent oil drain from the head and other locations like the filter housing. Any plastic items inside the engine is asking for trouble. Deteriorates fast and painfully hard to repair. They did it to all the V8s and V12s after 2000 (and some before) and risking what little remains of their reputation for quality.

I don't get the fascination with plastic. I do give BMW credit for using high grade stuff, far superior to the crap used on my '03 Lincoln LSV8, that is a total turd shiite fest. I like the E34 M50TU metal mania. Like the check ball in the head. 100% metal...
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o284/pmcdougal/headcheckvalve1-1.jpg (http://s123.photobucket.com/user/pmcdougal/media/headcheckvalve1-1.jpg.html)

[93 525 Paul]

Hey All - long time no...I am wondering what's wrong with the photo links, I'd like to reset them so they work properly. This is a good post and worth a read now and then (to me anyway.) I went to my photobucket account and it's live, it's fine, it's at 2% of capacity, so it's not overloaded or out of compliance or dead.
I compared the links today to the links I used back in 2012 (yikes 8 years ago???) and the diff is that Photobucket upgraded to SSL old links are all http and the new links are all https. I pasted a new link in a preview message and it's still fuzzy and watermarked.
HELP! (Thanks in advance)

[shogun]

Paul, photobucket changed from free to paid service, if you do not pay, the posted pics are blurred. Only way is to upload the pics on another free uoload service or here on the forum server. Imageshack also changed to paid service, I lost a lot of pics, tinypic is also gone since last year

[93 525 Paul]

Well, photobucket sucks ass.
E34s do not.
This red beauty has 241,000+ miles on her now. 71,000 on the refresh. She overheated last week (thermostat maybe) and while waiting for the tow, a guy gave my bro his number and email said he wants to buy her. Excellent taste in cars.

[93 525 Paul]

Well, thank you Shogun for the clarification.
Photobucket sucks ass.
E34s do not.
This red beauty has 241,000+ miles on her now. 71,000 on the refresh. She overheated last week (thermostat maybe) and while waiting for the tow, a guy gave my bro his number and email said he wants to buy her. Excellent taste in cars.

[shogun]

photobucket changed again the system, now up to 250 pics are free. But all the old links are no longer working, check the website again and post new links. I even had trouble to find my old photobucket folder, now it works again. Now the photobucket links start with app like this without space http s:// app. photobucke t.c om/u / and the registered user name

[632 Regal]

Well, thank you Shogun for the clarification.
Photobucket sucks ass.
E34s do not.
This red beauty has 241,000+ miles on her now. 71,000 on the refresh. She overheated last week (thermostat maybe) and while waiting for the tow, a guy gave my bro his number and email said he wants to buy her. Excellent taste in cars.

Paul, Upload (Include) to this site, Ed said he allows 30 pics per post now so that is a lot. Should get this rolling. Far as I can tell you can hot link the pics wherever you want.

[93 525 Paul]

I have a couple surgeries coming up so I should have plenty of time to go back through and edit those posts to get the photos in/on here. Thanks Regal and Shogun. Thought I'd share of photo of her today. Still racking up the miles and looking quite good doing it. Hard to believe she is 27 years old and a quarter million miles in. That is 400,000+ kms for most of you.

8736

[93 525 Paul]

87378738