steering - won't return all the way to center

[BennyM]

This has been bugging me for a while.
What would keep the steering from returning to center, especially when coming out of a corner below, say 25mph? At these low speeds, I have to help the wheel back to center, I can't just let it slide through my fingers as I would in most other cars.

What I've tried so far without any improvement:
New control arms, tie rods, sway bar links, shocks, tires, wheels.
Adjusted steering box (was a bit loose before, steering wouldn't return to center even before this)
Checked and topped off power steering fluid (has minimal seepage)
Had an alignment after new parts went in.

The guys who did the alignment said something must be binding, "maybe the rack." Since I had to remind them that the car doesn't even have a rack, I figured I'd have better luck asking you guys.

The only thing that's left is what: the center tie rod, the idler arms -non of which make any groaning, squeaking, or clunking noises. What issues come from worn-out steering linkage?

[Tiger]

Castor in alignment is the most important reason for steering wheel returning to center. What is your Castor reading from the alignment (Is it within the spec?)?

[BennyM]

I'm not an alignment expert, so tell me if this seems right:

Caster Left: 7.9 degrees
Caster Right: 7.7 degrees
Toe Left: 0.14 degrees
Toe Right: 0.15 degrees

That is what the shop has on record from when they did the alignment. But, my understanding is that the caster can't be adjusted, and I'm pretty sure I replaced all the parts that would affect caster already.

[Scott C]

This has been bugging me for a while.
What would keep the steering from returning to center, especially when coming out of a corner below, say 25mph? At these low speeds, I have to help the wheel back to center, I can't just let it slide through my fingers as I would in most other cars.

What I've tried so far without any improvement:
New control arms, tie rods, sway bar links, shocks, tires, wheels.
Adjusted steering box (was a bit loose before, steering would return to center even before this)
Checked and topped off power steering fluid (has minimal seepage)
Had an alignment after new parts went in.

The guys who did the alignment said something must be binding, "maybe the rack." Since I had to remind them that the car doesn't even have a rack, I figured I'd have better luck asking you guys.

The only thing that's left is what: the center tie rod, the idler arms -non of which make any groaning, squeaking, or clunking noises. What issues come from worn-out steering linkage?

You sure you didn't over tighten your steering box? It doesn't take much to go from loose to binding...

[BennyM]

Oops, I mis-typed in my first post. It should read: "the steering WOULDN'T return to center even BEFORE I tightened the steering box."

[Tiger]

Loosen up that steering box and check first.

I feel your castor is not set far apart enough... perhaps car might be in accident on driver side? Any accident history?

[BennyM]

The car's records indicated a collision at the driver's side rear. There is no sign of damage in the front as far as I can tell. I have my suspicions about the people who did the alignment because they said the caster was in spec, and yet at least one wheel, according to the readings they gave me, doesn't mach the specs I found in the Bentley book. But, I don't know what you mean by "castor is not set far apart enough". Did you mean toe?

I will play with the steering box again, but I wonder if it might have to do with some other aspect of the power steering system, like a weak pump. Perhaps I'll have the pressure tested.

[ArnZ!]

Those wheel alignment specs are perfect. Caster has to be very close to even on both sides to make the care track straight aswell.

[Scott C]

One last thought, can you jack up the front of the car and move the wheel side to side? Look for binding? You might not feel the problem with the engine running and Power steering overpowering any binding. I sure hope it is not your steering box... That would suck.

If you need to isolate side by side - pop a tie rod off with front of car in air (and no pressure on wheels). It sure seems like something is binding - your caster looks fine (going from memory now) and your tire pressure is I am sure fine...

[Tiger]

Castor has to have a differential between the left and right front. The reason for this is so one wheel will 'lead' the other wheel in the direction it is supposed to go and how it moves... Easy way to picture this is Harley Davidson motorcycles... and choppers... From factory, the angle of the forks is just right for maneuverability and turning radius and a good balance that the motorcycle will right straight when you let go of steering wheel.

Now the choppers or modified Harley's with super long forks at insane angle... those bikes will no doublt stay straight.... but at the compromise of the handling... you will feel all the bumps of the roads on the steering wheel... and hard to turn... wide wide turning radius.

Now if you got a bike with upright fork... it will wander whereever it wants to go... at the slightest lean... like a regular bikes... the angle of the castor is not enough to steady the ride unless you got enough speed. Yet the bike is extremely easy to maneuver.

Now car is different... becaue there are two wheels... all roads are crowned... it leans to the right to aid water drainage... if you set castor to equal... both wheel will try to 'lead' and since the right wheel is under the 'lean'... it would have more 'strength' and therefore, the car steers to the right. Now if you set the left wheel to 'lead' then the left wheel will dictate where the right wheel should be... and the car track straight... even though the road does lean to the right.

This is a simple explaination but this only explains the front wheels. Bentley spec are what it shoudl be... I don't have it handy to see the spec... and as you discovered... one reading didn't match the spec. Only those newby and those who don't care will say it shouldn't make any difference or it match the spec. The master ASE alignment guy would know what to do to compensate for that spec issue.

So... if you are looking for a great alignment guy... try to find a master alignment or master tech who only does alignment... they really knows how to correct issues without fancy equipments... don't be scared when you see old ass alignment equipments... they really knows what they are doing.

[Grantus]

Did the wheel alignment shop give you any camber specs?