Trans Shifting Issue With 1995 530i

[1995bmw530i]

Hello,

I am in need of some professional expertise on this one!

Here are some specifics of my car:

1995 530I with the 3.0L M60 engine, Automatic transmission

Yesterday I started up my car to take it in for emission testing. Car fired up with no issues but when I put it in reverse the shifter was sticky (binding), The binding was also apparent when shifting to forward gears however all gears worked as usual. There were no strange noises and no fluid leaks anywhere on the car.

I drove the car to the emission station and went through with no issues, however the sticking (binding) was still there. Again all gears functioned properly with no noises.
After arriving home I lifted the car on jack stands and went under the car to further investigate. I removed the shifter cable from the transmission **** rod and cycled the shifter inside the car to check cable operation. Cable seemed to function smoothly with no sticking. I then checked the transmission metal shift rod (metal bracket on side of trans where cable attaches) for proper operation through all gears. The rod appeared to be a bit sticky so I sparayed some lubricant around the seal area and cycled it again through the gears. Now the shift rod shaft cycles very smoothly with no sticking. I am a happy guy now or so I thought:

The cable was re-attached and adjusted. I then started the car and quickly noticed there is now no REVERSE.
When the car is put in PARK it appears there is a load on the motor, but the car does not move and the rear wheels are locked.
I have tried manually shifting the transmission with cable disconnected and have the same results. Numerous attempts were made re-adjusting the cable with same results.

Has anyone out there had this issue before?

Any and all help on this would be greatly appreciated as I am lost on this one.


Best Regards,


Terry

[whiskychaser]

If you cant get gears using the lever on the side of the gearbox, it is possible that the selector shift valve may be broken. It is only made of plastic. Its is ZF part no. 1056327173:
http://www.zf.com/na/content/media/united_states/corporate_replacement_parts_1/service_portfolio/passenger_cars/5HP18.pdf

[1995bmw530i]

Will I need to remove the entire valve body to replace this part?

If so is there a complete kit to replace all springs, balls, gaskets, etc for this transmission?


Regards,

Terry

[whiskychaser]

You can drop that part of the valve body on its own using a T27 torx bit. Note the screws have different lengths. Support the lip of the valve body though as there wont be many screws left holding it up. When you drop the filter have a pan ready as it will be holding some ATF above the body. You can buy the full valve body kit (5HP18.VBK) including the valve. But you can get the valve on its own from places like this: Selector Valve (http://www.thectsc.com/index.php?p=product&id=84&parent=4)
Inspect the port where the valve runs and give it a clean. Lube the new valve with some ATF and make sure it moves without any resistance. There are no check balls or springs in that part but there is a sprung pin that sticks down through the channel plate a tiny bit. Just line up the part of the body you removed carefully when you put it back. Remember to hook the 'C' shape on the end of the valve onto the shift lever. If you are in the US you almost certainly fill with Dexron III (red) but the type of ATF and the filling procedure are in the parts catalogue listed above.

[1995bmw530i]

Ok,

Today I replaced the broken selector valve, re-installed the valve body, and filled the trans back up with Dextron II. I filled the trans cold with fluid until it started running out the fill hole, then started engine and ran it through the gears. Everything seemed to function correctly now. All gears work and I have Park and Reverse now.

I let the car warm up and then shut it off. Pulled the fill cap, and filled it up again until it started to trickle out, then replaced the cap and dropped the car.

The g-friend and I took the car for a ride down the street and everything was fine until we got a block away from the house. Then the unexpected happened, trans strarted slipping and error came up on dash "Trans Program" see owners manual.

What does this mean? I am wondering if the fluid level is not full...

Damn, I thought I had this figured out and fixed! Not so it seems.....

Car is back up on jack stands for round 2 now. I pulled the fill plug and a small amount of fluid came out. Have not tried to refill to see if it is low yet.

Do you have any more advise for me or what I should do next?

Thanks again on this your help is much appreciated.


Terry

[Tiger]

Sounds like you lost your trans fluid. Check for leaks.

[1995bmw530i]

No leaks anywhere under the car.

Any other suggestions?

[whiskychaser]

Ok,

I let the car warm up and then shut it off. Pulled the fill cap, and filled it up again until it started to trickle out, then replaced the cap and dropped the car.
Terry
Dont stop the engine when you are filling or you may not get enough ATF in there. How much did you put in?

[1995bmw530i]

I'm sorry but do you mean leave the engine running (in park or in gear with e-brake on) and the fill cap open when topping off the transmission?

If so that might be the problem as I have been doing it with the engine shut off.

Thanks Again Whiskychaser.

[whiskychaser]

Yes thats what I mean. If you dont have the engine running it wont suck up enough ATF. Sometimes you can hear it - sounds like a kid finishing a milk shake. If you put in less than 4 litres I doubt it is enough

[1995bmw530i]

I will put her back up on jackstands today and fill with engine running.

I was going by the info on this link. (does not say anything about leaving engine running while filling) Probably why I am having issues now huh?

Project #23: ZF 5HP18 Transmission Valve Body Overhaul DIY Part 1 (http://forum.roadfly.com/threads/13172034-Project-23-ZF-5HP18-Transmission-Valve-Body-Overhaul-DIY-Part-1)

Will inform you what the result was.


Thanks a bunch!


Terry

[Tiger]

The right procedure is with transmission warm... not hot... engine running... keep filling until it comes back out... Plug it up and you are done. it will suck up another 3/4 quart or so..You do this in Park.

Car must be level and be sure to use jack stands.

[whiskychaser]

Good to hear you found it of use:-) Yes, the bolts go all the way through and perhaps I should have made that clear. The upper part of the valve body will normally stay in place because it has been there that long. But if you push on the screws you could dislodge it. Long bolts or studs is a nice solution. If you get away without spilling any ATF you are doing well :-)

[shogun]

The selector valve inside the valve body was originally made out of a kind of plastic/resin, that breaks on many transmissions, so you have the feeling first that shifting is hard and then you can shift and shift and nothing happens, this part is now made of a new kind of reinforced 'plastic' material, example http://www.thectsc.com/products/selector-valve-84-3.html Product ID : 1056 327 173 01 selector valve
So basically the same problem as with the small plastic balls in the valve body which get smaller and smaller and finally disappear.
4 cases I know of within last month, 1 x on an E32 730 M60B30 with 5HP18, another one on an E36 M3 with 5HP18, and one case on an E34 with a 5HP18 and another one on a E36 with 5HP18.
That part is included in every valve body overhault kit, position 50.020 http://www.zftranspart.com/index.php?p=product&id=52&parent=43&is_print_version=true

To replace that part you have to remove the transmission oil pan, the trans filter, then losen the valve body and drop it a bit and then you can change that part. No need to disassemble the valve body, but of you want to do so, here we have some pics when we do that in my garage for valve body overhaul http://e32b12.blogspot.jp/search/label/5HP18

[shogun]

New pics and instructions bmw automatic transmission ga6l45r - no forward or reverse 1-series, 3-series-x3-e90-e82-e83 ga6l45r
REPLACEMENT PROCEDURE
(used with permission from Bentley Publishers):

Selector shaft failure description

BMW E90 models may illuminate the transmission warning lamp and the vehicle will not move either in reverse and / or in forward gears. When the accelerator pedal is pressed engine speed only increases as if the transmission is in the Park or Neutral position. One or more of the following fault codes may be stored in the EGS (transmission control module):
56B8 – EGS: Ratio Fault R
56B9 – EGS: clutch, gears 3, 5, and R
56BB – EGS: Clutch, gears 1, 4, 5, 6 and R: neutral test
56BD – EGS: Clutch, gears 2 and 6: neutral test
56BF – EGS: Clutch, gears 1, 2, 3 and 4: neutral test
The cause may be a broken selector shaft rod. It is easy to misdiagnose this as a faulty transmission of Mechatronic unit. If you have any of the listed fault codes along with the listed symptoms, remove the transmission pan and inspect the selector shaft rod.
The selector shaft metal rod (A) breaks away from the plastic guide bracket (B).

Selector shaft rod, replacing
Remove drain plug (arrow) and drain transmission fluid into suitable container.
Remove transmission pan fasteners (arrows) then remove transmission pan (A).
Pull transmission filter straight down and remove.
Working at rear of valve body, pull down on Mechatronic connector release tab (arrow) to disconnect electrical connector.
Remove Mechatronic unit fasteners (arrows). The fasteners require a BMW special socket, tool # 24 4 350 to order use part # 83 30 0 495 598. You can use an E12 (inverted Torx socket) if you grind down past the chamfer on the end of socket.
Lower front of mechatronic unit, then remove while pulling rear out of transmission
With Mechatronic unit on clean work space, remove fastener (arrow) from selector guide.
Slide broken selector shaft (A) out of Mechatronic unit.
Slide new selector shaft rod into Mechatronic unit.
Align selector shaft (A) onto plastic guide (B), then reinstall guide fastener and tighten.
Pull out old Mechatronic seals (arrows) and replace with new.
Working at transmission, pull out old Mechatronic seal (arrow) and replace with new.
Working at rear of transmission, pull out old Mechatronic electrical connector sealing sleeve and replace with new.
Reinstall Mechatronic unit rear first, into transmission. Install fasteners and tighten.
Working at rear of valve body, push Mechatronic connector tab (arrow) up to connect electrical connector.
Reinstall transmission filter and pan.
Fill transmission fluid and clear fault codes.
https://blog.bavauto.com/16677/bmw-automatic-transmission-ga6l45r-no-forward-or-reverse-1-series-3-series-x3-e90-e82-e83-ga6l45r/

[shogun]

updated link with wayback machine bmw-automatic-transmission-no-forward-or-reverse-1-series-3-series-x3-e90-e82-e83
https://web.archive.org/web/20160707222631/https://blog.bavauto.com/16677/bmw-automatic-transmission-ga6l45r-no-forward-or-reverse-1-series-3-series-x3-e90-e82-e83-ga6l45r/

[632 Regal]

Exactly what I will be doing this week!


updated link with wayback machine bmw-automatic-transmission-no-forward-or-reverse-1-series-3-series-x3-e90-e82-e83
https://web.archive.org/web/20160707222631/https://blog.bavauto.com/16677/bmw-automatic-transmission-ga6l45r-no-forward-or-reverse-1-series-3-series-x3-e90-e82-e83-ga6l45r/

[shogun]

how to change the broken shift valve on a 5HP18 E32, German text, no need to drop the valve body complete, just use longer bolts, see pic
hier nun meine Erfahrungen mit dem Tausch des Vorwahlventils am 5HP18. Zu meiner ursprünglichen Frage: es muss nicht der gesamte Schaltkasten abgelassen werden, sondern nur die vordere Hälfte (in Fahrtrichtung).
Hier müssen alle Schrauben gelöst werden. Ich habe mir vier Schrauben M6x100 (mit Gewinde nur am vorderen Teil) an jede Ecke eingeschraubt und konnte das Teil daran stützen (s. Bild). Danach lässt sich das Ventil einfach herausziehen.

https://ibb.co/BrN649w

Bitte beachten, dass die Schrauben unterschiedliche Längen haben. Am besten auf einen Karton den Schaltkasten skizzieren und die Schrauben an die passende Stelle stecken, dann fällt der Rückbau deutlich leichter.
Auch wichtig: Das Ventil läuft oben in einer Führung, beim wieder festschrauben der Schaltkasten-Hälfte unbedingt darauf achten, dass das Ventil nicht verspannt wird. Es muss sich nach Montage leicht vor und zurück bewegen lassen.
Ich hoffe das hilft mal jemandem,

[shogun]

how to change the broken shift valve on a 5HP18 E32, German text, no need to drop the valve body complete, just use longer bolts, see pic
hier nun meine Erfahrungen mit dem Tausch des Vorwahlventils am 5HP18. Zu meiner ursprünglichen Frage: es muss nicht der gesamte Schaltkasten abgelassen werden, sondern nur die vordere Hälfte (in Fahrtrichtung).
Hier müssen alle Schrauben gelöst werden. Ich habe mir vier Schrauben M6x100 (mit Gewinde nur am vorderen Teil) an jede Ecke eingeschraubt und konnte das Teil daran stützen (s. Bild). Danach lässt sich das Ventil einfach herausziehen.

https://ibb.co/BrN649w

Bitte beachten, dass die Schrauben unterschiedliche Längen haben. Am besten auf einen Karton den Schaltkasten skizzieren und die Schrauben an die passende Stelle stecken, dann fällt der Rückbau deutlich leichter.
Auch wichtig: Das Ventil läuft oben in einer Führung, beim wieder festschrauben der Schaltkasten-Hälfte unbedingt darauf achten, dass das Ventil nicht verspannt wird. Es muss sich nach Montage leicht vor und zurück bewegen lassen.
Ich hoffe das hilft mal jemandem,