Any New Jersey (N. central) E34 Owners who like to work on their own cars out there?

[Victor]

Greetings - Looking for similarly mechanically inclined owners who are within reasonable distance from from Union County (Scotch Plains) interested in collaborating / learning together over an E34.

Recently acquired '95 525i with 138k and have a laundry list of mechanical things to do / maintain. Keeping it stock. I have some automotive (and racing) experience, but lack depth, experience, and confidence with these cars. Bentley manual is at hand!

My list of interests includes:

Bullet proofing the cooling system, replacing water pump, T-stat, hoses, and fluid.
Brakes - Bleeding, replacing front pads with Akibono's.
Valve cover gasket / plugs.
Trans flush / filter.


Air sensor.

If you have similar ambitions, let's help each other.

Vic

[duby55]

Helo Vic, I'm in Metuchen. I own 2 525s. 1 is a 92 with a maunual trans, the other is a 91 automatic has turned into a parts car sadly. I'm getting ready to swap out the subframes, engines and some body parts. I haven't gotten into anything big on these cars other than keeping them running. I had a few electical problems I ironed out, but all in all they are great cars. My biggest problem is finding time to do the work. Both are now off the road, but not for long as my GMC pickup is killing me with the amount of fuel it burns, so I need a get around car and would rather make a nice 525 manual trans out what I have then to buy another car. I at least know the historys of my cars which has made the decision to do all this major work a worthy choice. Now let me find some time.

[Victor]

Dear Duby55 -

Your projects sound much more ambitious than mine, and I really don't think I'd be of much value helping though I'm willing to try.

I'm trying to embark on refreshing the cooling system -- new hoses, pump, coolant, and t-stat. Just researched drilling t-stats and may drill mine. One person commented that allowing some water to pass prevents the shock of hot water from suddenly entering the engine, which risks head warpage. Never thought about it before, but imagine a typical winter warm-up cycle, and an eventual t-stat opening allowing hot water into the head and block. Of course the combustion warms those parts ... so I'm not sure what shock the engine experiences when the t-stat opens.

Anyway, even my relatively superficial project is one I've never tackled before, and will surely benefit from someone with experience.

Thanks for your reply!
Vic

[Bill R.]

Not to intrude on your posts but the head is always full of water thats gradually heating up as the engine warms, there is no sudden shock of hot water that warps a head..... if anything after the tstat opens its a sudden shock of cold water, but either way its a non issue. Drilling the hole is just helpful to some people who can't get the air pockets out when bleeding.

[Victor]

Bill - Thanks for your comment. Please clarify. I've read we have to bleed, bleed, bleed (i.e. worry, worry, worry). What problem can an air pocket cause and isn't the problem true for all e34's? Thanks, Vic

[whiskychaser]

Where you have air you dont have coolant. This means your heater wont work but more importanly, the block/head are not being cooled. Result: blown HG and maybe warped head. The whole point of a stat is to warm the engine up to operating temp as soon as possible so why would you want to put a hole in it? It take me about 20 minutes to bleed mine. If I am not happy I just leave it overnight and top up in the morning. No drilling holes, jacking the front up or fingers crossed behind my back;)

[Victor]

Hmmm. 20 minutes to bleed? What's your procedure? I figured you loosen the bleeder screw, purge air, retighten, have beer. (Close hood, have next beer, etc.)

[Tiger]

LOL... sometime bleeder screws snaps... sometime it is clogged that you got to take it out and clean it with picks... My suggestion is you PB Blast your nipples a day before you bleed......... Now that just came out wrong.... ROFLOL.

[whiskychaser]

Hmmm. 20 minutes to bleed? What's your procedure? I figured you loosen the bleeder screw, purge air, retighten, have beer. (Close hood, have next beer, etc.)
Procedure? Mix up the antifreeze to what the system holds. With heater on full, fill as much as you can then put cap on and fire up. Run at fast idle for a few mins then open bleed screw to let air out. Stop engine occasionally and top up. Just keep repeating with a close eye on temp gauge so it doesnt go past 12 o'clock. When its hot isnt a good time to take the cap off;) Check heater is giving out really hot air. If you have any coolant left, you probably havent put enough in. Test drive. Of course I can because I'm on tea until the job is done:D

[Victor]

Somebody please tell me what putting the heater on full does to allow coolant circulation when refilling. Also, if the engine is cold and the radiator is refilled, does having the heater on full mean coolant is flowing through the block even though (presumably) the t-stat is closed? Separately, I've heard coolant is nasty stuff, so here's my stupid question: Can I dump it on the lawn without killing grass, fish, and poisoning whole populations?

[whiskychaser]

Yes coolant flows round the block and heater before the stat opens. Thats why you dont need the engine to reach temp before you can turn the heater on. The idea is you fill the block and heater and dont cause an air lock. Some cars have an air bleed valve on the heater return. Before bleed valves you would disconnect the return. Effective if a bit messy. It also works well for central heating air locks:) I dont think putting antifreeze on your lawn will do it any good. I couldnt possibly encourage you to just pour it down your drain and hose it down well now could I?

[Bill R.]

Every major city has a hazardous chemical area at the dump usually , here they allow you to dispose of chemicals for free rather than dump them someplace. I usually store mine in a 5 gallon container and when they get full i make a run to the dump/landfill. They don't charge me to dispose of this but they do charge me for a regular dumpload of garbage.

[Victor]

Having just bought the car this summer, I thought I'd test the heater before embarking on the coolant system work. Damn if I can get any hot air! I'll start a new thread on the topic. I did read previous threads, but my issue seems to be a little different. Thanks!

[genphreak]

My list of interests includes:

Bullet proofing the cooling system, replacing water pump, T-stat, hoses, and fluid.
Brakes - Bleeding, replacing front pads with Akibono's.
Valve cover gasket / plugs.
Trans flush / filter.
Air sensor.

Vic

That's a good list and a great way to start (high risk items first!)

Tip: If replacing the pads, be sure to do all 4 and replace rotors too. There is nothing like an e34 with maximum factory braking performance (except one with FBP + Akebonos!) Rotors are dirt-cheap in the US. Only use cheapie stockers (or ATEs), they work/last way better than drilled ones on the road. The Chinese ones are not as bad as some people think (eg they are actually quite good).

I'd also check the electrics, and dump the error codes (you need a diagnostic scan) to get an idea of other things that might need attention.

Also some analysis of air leaks in the intake/pipes.

[Victor]

For a while I had a brake lining error message on the dash. Turns out the rear sensor was out of its pocket and my brake pad linings are fine. Meanwhile, I bought Akebono front pads, but along with brake fluid, that's all I planed to replace. Not sure what FBP's are, or what the benefit of new rotors would be (unless mine are not smooth). I have no shimmy under breaking. However, I did spray some wheel cleaner on and it screwed-up my ability to make a smooth stop. Instead, the brakes catch at right before completing a stop. Annoying! Bought some brake cleaner and plan to wipe down the rotors. Alternatively, I could leave the pad job for when I need it.

[genphreak]

The rotors are designed to last the length of the pad. If you do only the pads, the rotors wear thin by the time the pads are half worn and you get warpage. Also, they pmay not bed-in properly, something that is a bit of a science I;'ve found

[Tiger]

100000 miles is my quideline for changing the rotors. If you are close to that mark or over, change them out, they are cheap. I highly recommends the ATE Premium One slotted rotors. Akebono brake pads are the best for most people.

[Victor]

Tiger - Thanks for the advice. I have 138k on presumably the original rotors. Brake pads have plenty of life left, however, and no problems with braking. I suppose I'll just wait on installing my Akebono's (along with new rotors) until I have to. Best, Vic

[genphreak]

When the dealer does them, they always change the rotors, so at 138k there is no way you'd have the original ones, these are wear items and are designed to wear out 1 on 1 with a safety margin. No manufacturer makes rotors designed to last more (despite what repairers think about their suitability for re-use) than one set of pads as they make the car more costly, heavier, perform worse and use more fuel. A BMW tends to have bigger brakes than many manufacturers specify, so with normal driving, some brake components will not be obviously 'finished' by the time they are ready for replacement.

[Victor]

I've done a lot of work since this post... Learning, learning ... But more to do!

Any NJ E34 owners that want to collaborate, please call me: 201-736-9388.