Doing some work on the car soon

[BigKriss]

I still have a knocking near the rear of the car under acceleration from standstill in 1st gear under 40kms.

I rebuilt the half shafts with new boots and regreased the bearings and cage.

https://picasaweb.google.com/Kristianandlily/HalfShafts?authkey=Gv1sRgCJ7pmqO3obT9hAE

• I’m also going to put in, e21 320i transmission mounts. 23711175424.
• New cv joint on the halfshaft
• New diff mount (reinforced with liquid urethane)
• 3mm front springs pads (upper and lower)
• E36 m3 front bump stops >> 31332225377
• Change the differential halfshaft seals >> BMW E34 Website (http://www.bmwe34.net/E34main/Maintenance/Transmission/Differential_seals.htm)

Got my hands on a oil canister for an oil cooler, I’m good to go installing the oil cooler on the car.
https://picasaweb.google.com/Kristianandlily/DropBox#5677579490973109650

Yeah!!!

[BMW4LIFE]

Nice!

Knocking...can you make a little video?

Could it be subframe bushings? Have you checked your rear suspension?

Good luck with your mini project!

[632 Regal]

Careful with the oil cooler, if the oil is not hot you will wear out parts in a big hurry. If you run synthetic oil you will never reach a critical temperature that wrecks stuff. Conventional oil can break down quickly from hard use but not really an issue unless you dont change it often.

[Tash_1991]

hey BigKriss, I'm curious, is you 5 Series manual??

[BigKriss]

Yeah, isnt there a thermostat on the valve though on the cannister to only open when it reaches a certain temperature?

[BigKriss]

no, auto


hey BigKriss, I'm curious, is you 5 Series manual??

[Tash_1991]

:D i'm from Bathurst, your signature, what track is that at?? Looks a bit Oran Park, but could be way off!

[BigKriss]

Winton

[632 Regal]

Not sure about a thermo valve, never used one as no need.

[ss2115]

Hi BigKriss.

In the days when I was doing this sort of stuff, there is certainly a thermostat valve for the oil cooler but it was always a separate item and not part of the adaptor or canister.
It looked a bit like a blow-off valve with three oil line connections - a common from the engine, the "cold" back to the engine and a "hot" to the cooler. It was inserted so as to by-pass the cooler and send the oil straight back to the engine and only began to send oil to the colooer once it reached temperature.

It is, as stated, pretty essential. Besides engine wear etc, the cold oil has the potential to blow oil lines and even the cooler itself.

[BigKriss]

Hey guys. I had a look at the cannister and were it meets the block there is a check valve there.

[ss2115]

You really need to study exactly what its for.
If its just a check valve, then its not governed by heat. This means it may only be a one-way valve and might be to prevent airlock, cavitation or return oil drainage so that the pumps always primed.
If there is no other passage that returns the oil to the engine by-passing the cooler, then its not what you need.

A proper oil cooler control system will have a by-pass of the cooler so that on a cold start or in cold weather the thicker oil is not forced through the oil cooler until it has thinned out some by heat.

[Bill R.]

7535 Kris, the etk shows the cooler and lines and the image of the filter housing for the oil cooler model shows no thermostat separately so i wouldn't worry about it. Just get the right cooler and lines for it as shown. It probably does have a thermostat internally in the housing

[BigKriss]

Okay thanks for everyones comments. In the second picture I provided (first post), you can see the thermostat valve in the cannister. The normal cannister does not have this.

Im going to tap and drill the cannsiter were the bung is for a oil pressure sensor (I think the m5 used this), then get a oil temperature sensor and a turbo oil feed installed too. 7536

[BigKriss]

With the pic above I posted, the drill and tap will go with on the left, not below.

anyway I I had time today to reinforce the diff mount. Here are some pics;

It turned out pretty good. I have to let it set for a few days.

I took some pics here >> https://picasaweb.google.com/Kristianandlily/ReinforcedDiffMountE34?authkey=Gv1sRgCMmI4qq-_dKqUQ

Also a few weeks ago I rebuilt some halfshaft I got off Nick a few years ago. >> https://picasaweb.google.com/Kristianandlily/HalfShafts?authkey=Gv1sRgCJ7pmqO3obT9hAE#

This is a good link to follow; http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LsytyVzokBg

All I used was some circlip plyers and a hammer. No other tools are needed but I guess a bearing puller who also be usefull if the hammer does not work to remove the cv joint off the end of the shaft.

I dont have any before pics, but it took quite a while to rebuild. Maybe 3 hours per side. The first time I tried it the cv joint didnt want to move around, its a bit hard to describe now but I put the ball bearings back improperly.

Anyway I fixed it now. I was thinking of using hose clamps to go on the end of the cv joint as I dont have the proper tool to do up the clamps provided. Any comments here? I thought it may be out of balance at speed, but considering the weight of the half shaft, I dont think so.

[BigKriss]

Put the e21 trans mounts in today. I dont have any pics. They look similar to the yellow IE trans mounts only slightly larger in width but the same height.

The bolt that goes on them is larger so I had to drill out the holes larger to fir them through the transmission cross member. They were green in colour, these are the part number I used;

transmission mounts (e21 320i) 23711175424
trans washer 64521350824
trans washer 07119932112
trans nut 07119915558

I put the front bumpstops on, #31332225377, new lower control arms, front swaybar links, new front rotors and pads (remsa brand) and lower spring pads (that were not on the car before).

Im still getting a vibration when I accelerate from standstill.

Tomorrow I'll try and replace the CV joint on the driveshaft, replace the halfshafts and put in a new diff mount.

I would have replaced everything else on the car by then, this means the only thing that i need to change are the univerisal joints in the driveshaft.

[BigKriss]

I replaced the subframe bushes a while ago and it didnt make any difference.


Nice!

Knocking...can you make a little video?

Could it be subframe bushings? Have you checked your rear suspension?

Good luck with your mini project!

[ss2115]

Hi Big Kriss.
I was going to suggest the drive shafts themselves for balance, but i guess thats pretty obvious that you might have done that already. I've known the small plates they weld to drive shafts to break the touch weld and be thrown off.
But another read on another forum reminded me of a problem i encountered many years ago with a strange vibration that would come and go - mainly on acceleration. Check carefully the engine driven fan if your still running it. Missing blade will be obvious and is a constant vibration, but a split or a small missing piece can set up a vibration under load that isn't there at any other time and without going into a long tedious story, almost impossible to identify by most people.
Would be nice if its that simple, and it might be.

[BigKriss]

Yeah, well I have to get my car back together and see if its doing the same.

The engine fan is fine. Maybe a balance plate is missing but I didn't notice one gone last time I inspected it.

I was speaking to Rastum on here who replaced his own u-joints, he said he had similar symptoms to me. If this doesnt fix it, I will try and get a second hand driveshaft and/or replace the u-joints.

Here are some pics of my progress so far;

https://picasaweb.google.com/Kristianandlily/December_repairs?authkey=Gv1sRgCIa7sM33gLreLA



Hi Big Kriss.
I was going to suggest the drive shafts themselves for balance, but i guess thats pretty obvious that you might have done that already. I've known the small plates they weld to drive shafts to break the touch weld and be thrown off.
But another read on another forum reminded me of a problem i encountered many years ago with a strange vibration that would come and go - mainly on acceleration. Check carefully the engine driven fan if your still running it. Missing blade will be obvious and is a constant vibration, but a split or a small missing piece can set up a vibration under load that isn't there at any other time and without going into a long tedious story, almost impossible to identify by most people.
Would be nice if its that simple, and it might be.

[BigKriss]

e34-1.wmv - YouTube (http://youtu.be/KJ7xY8Uf4iA)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NSyY6h2-LAc&context=C329a31cADOEgsToPDskLEOq8lNrfafYg41ZMl0CBq


Still some vibration there, going to get a driveshaft from the wreckers next.

[632 Regal]

Man you have about everything covered, that vibration has to be right in front of your face. Nice front brake setup! Check the angles of the driveshaft and rear half shafts. Unless you have a bad bearing or one is out of center you shouldn't have an issue. If something is not straight in alignment it can cause a vibration even with new stuff.

Looks nice Kriss!

[BigKriss]

yeah I narrowed it down to the universal joints in the driveshaft. everything else I can think of I replaced or changed around without luck.

[632 Regal]

I thought you changed the joints in the driveshaft?

[BigKriss]

no I didnt. I purchased some new ones but it I think I will buy a driveshaft from a wrecker and then try to rebuild this one with new joints. Something like this......

http://www.bimmernut.com/forum/5-series-bmw/42256-driveshaft-rebuild.html

[zhandax]

I am in the same boat; starting to notice a vibration on deceleration and occasionally on acceleration. On the old E28, driveshaft was a maintenance item at 150,000 miles. I got 190,000 out of the E34, but it now needs replacement. I am hoping someone removed an aftermarket driveshaft with grease fittings from a 540i when they gave up and will list it for sale. Wish I had thought of it on the E28, but i only got the wheels, tires, and stereo, and had it hauled off (dropped a valve and beat a hole in the piston before I got stopped). Hard to bitch after 320,000 miles.