1991 e32 735i pan gasket replacement m30 engine

[Kibokojoe]

Place cardboard under engine

Remove radiator fan and shroud

Remove air cleaner

Move coolant tank (don't remove coolant lines just pull tank to the side)
remove overflow line
pull electrical plug

Remove metal channel under coolant tank

Loosen electrical conduit that was under metal channel (wire bundle has a tendency to stick to the firewall)

Remove vacuum line to master cylinder

Brace hood with pole or stick

Jack up car ( I used stands on sway bar bushing fittings)

Drain oil

Swing power steering pump bracket out of the way by removing the adjustment bolt and nut, leave hoses attached
http://i273.photobucket.com/albums/jj225/kibokojoe/brackets-1.jpg

Remove air conditioner compressor bracket, leave hoses attached

Disconnect oil sensor
remove bolts on sensor from oil pan or disconnect connector on left side of pan/engine
remove automatic transmission bracket on cooler lines (left front of engine)

Disconnect exhaust pipe to transmission support

Remove nuts on transmission rubber mounts

Lift engine slightly to remove pressure on engine mounts. I used not only the lift but also raised the engine using the ac compressor mounting bracket.
http://i273.photobucket.com/albums/jj225/kibokojoe/enginelift.jpg
http://i273.photobucket.com/albums/jj225/kibokojoe/jackingpoint.jpg

Remove engine mount nuts from the bottom side of car (33 ft - lb)

Remove grounding strap

Lift engine 2 to 3"

Place wood blocks under engine mounts

Remove oil pan bolts
(22) 10mm bolts (6.5 - 8 ft - lb or 84 in-lb)
(4) 7mm special bolts that draw pan toward bell housing (15 ft - lb or 180 in/lb)
http://i273.photobucket.com/albums/jj225/kibokojoe/torxbolts-1.jpg
Remove oil pump drop into pan (two long bolts towards front of engine) There are three bolts and the nut on the gear

Rotate crankshaft on #6 cylinder to clear rod journal (36 mm bolt)

Remove oil pan

Inspect and reinstall pump (16 ft - lb or 192 in/lb)

Install sprocket with chain (align spine) 18 ft - lb or 216 in/lb)

Use 3m Super weather-stripping and gasket adhesive to hold new gasket in place.
http://i273.photobucket.com/albums/jj225/kibokojoe/adhesive-1.jpg
Mount the gasket before the adhesive sets. Move it around into position
Takes about 15 minutes to dry

I made a gasket protector from a plastic surgical pan to protect the leading edge of the gasket and oil pan.
http://i273.photobucket.com/albums/jj225/kibokojoe/gasketprotector.jpg
Gasket protector held in place with zip strips
Leave gasket protector in place until after the oil pump mounting.

Check main bearings 42-45 ft/lb

Check rod bearings 38-41 ft/lb

Other thoughts

Take care not to damage new gasket when sliding oil pan back into position.

Engine lift on sale at Harbor Freight $50

I used air conditioner compressor mounting bracket to lift the engine while tightening the chain on the engine lift.

I am extremely safety minded so I never trust one device to hold up anything over 50 lbs.

Used a wooden block on the AC compressor mounting bracket when jacking engine

Place wooden blocks between the frame and engine mounts

[BigKriss]

wow, thanks for that. I have to do this in the future too.

[Ross]

If you can get it in the air dropping the front crossmember/suspension a bit is easier.

[Kibokojoe]

Yeah I read about the crossmember procedure but not real fond on poping ball joints and tie rod ends unless I have too. When I change the gasket on my 535i I will try the crossmember procedure and submit a writeup on that too.

[shogun]

Joe, did you already change the gasket on your 535i?

[Kibokojoe]

Joe, did you already change the gasket on your 535i?

Yes i replaced the gasket some time back. Is a matter of fact we just replaced the whole engine about 2 weeks ago now. Had a lot of problems trying to replace the head and ended up stripping the head bolt holes in the block. Man was that frustrating. Found a 90 m30 with ~60,000 miles on it and used it for the replacement. All together it took my son and I 4 days including drilling out two of the exhaust studs that had broken off. Used helicoils.

Did you have a suggestion when replacing the pan gasket?

[shogun]

Just wanted to know if you opted for the crossmember procedure and which one you finally found easier.
Crossmember can sometimes stick and we once had a real problem when changing the upper oil pan on an E32 750 M70 engine, we could not get that thing to pop out.
I found this in webarchive>M30 Oil Pump removal and rebuilding

http://web.archive.org/web/20070402075512/http://mysite.verizon.net/vzerdcib/e34a/id5.html



Pump removal...


I used this technique by myself a couple of times on the street in order to expose and remove oil pump of m30 in e34:

1 - Set the engine at TDC of cylinder #1
2 - Dismount the exhaust by removing the hangers at the resonator and the muffler.
3 - Drain the oil.
4 - Disengage connectors for these sensors - oil pressure, idle control valve, coolant level.
5 - Dismount coolant expansion tank and push away to the left.
6 - Remove the plate that supported coolant expansion tank.
7 - Remove top nuts from engine mounts.
8 - Raise the car onto jackstands supporting at front mounting points.
9 - Disconnect exhaust at transmission.
10 - Remove the bolts that mount oil pan to transmission. Regular 8mm socket will do.
11 - Remove 10mm bolts along the perimeter of oil pan.
12 - Disengage the connector for oil level sender.
13 - Disengage steering pump from its bracket and push away to the left.
14 - Remove steering pump bracket.
15 - Remove bottom nuts from engine mounts. KEEP the mounts in place.
16 - Use the jack under front cross member to raise the car.
17 - Remove jack stands, placing one to support the engine directly under the engine mounting BANK for the bracket of air conditioning compressor.
18 - The jack stand should be extended about a foot and a half for sufficient room.
19 - SLOWLY drop the car, observing placement of compressor bracket and coolant expansion tank. The engine should not move too much to the side as the car is lowered. Drop only much enough for the engine to stop moving with respect to the car. The jack must be under cross member supporting the car. Lift just a bit to make sure that the car's body does not recline on the engine BUT is fully supported by the jack.
20 - With enough extension of jack stand the engine rises with respect to the car providing enough room to remove oil pan through minor maneuvering.
21 - Withraw the pan.
22 - Slowly raise the car using the jack at cross member. Watch for engagement of engine mounts with engine stands.
23 - Remove jack stand, place both jack stands at front mounting points, and drop the car on them.
24 - Undo the nut that holds oil pump sprocket, and slowly pull the sprocket off the rotor shaft.
25 - Undo 3 bolts that secure oil pump to the engine, finalizing removal of the sprocket off the rotor shaft.

[Kibokojoe]

Stuck with the non-crossmember procedure. It helps to have the gasket protector. But either way it is a pain in the butt

[shogun]

Still can use this thread from 2011, today someone with an E34 535 asked me how to replace the M30 oil pan gasket, so I gave him this link. Thanks, Joe

[Jazz_89]

Thanks for this very informative post.

Today I was surprised when I found out, that most of these 10mm bolts holding the oil pan on the engine block were in fact loosen quite a bit. This way I could trace back a lower oil leak to its source. And even though the car is not used offroad or racing.
My advice is to definitively check and tighten these bolts, especially those on the forward part of the pan. Quite possibly, leaks might often be associated with part of the engine IMO.

Best wishes
JAzz

[shogun]

Comment from Gale after I posted it on another forum: Good info, Thanks Erich. I've done this twice now, once on my 735i and once on my sons 535i. Both times I combined the job with a full upper/lower control arms, idler arm, and tie rod replacement. Dropping the subframe was worth the extra minimum effort for full easy access to the pan gasket.

Trick: when dropping the subframe, pre-lube the nuts in the chassis by removing the plastic plugs from above and soaking with PB Blaster or 50/50 acetone-ATF mix a few days in advance, 3 on each side. The subframe locator dowels will be rusted in place. Put a crushable cardboard box under the subframe and knock it loose from above with a heavy sledge hammer.

and one more info from a former site of a member here, recovered with the wayback machine:
M30 Oil Pump removal and rebuilding

Lubrication is critical for any engine. Good condition of the oil pump is essential for provision of adequate lubrication. Negligence of timely oil changes affects oil pump as well as the rest of the system resulting in permanent wear. Here I provide simple procedure for removal of the oil pump from M30 engine without the need for engine lifting hardware. I also show internal parts of the pump in order to provide information on what needs replacement in oil pump rebuilding procedure...
Components of oil pump:
Clockwise from top left corner:

- Main body of the pump
- Rotor housing
- Bolts
- Inner rotor
- Outer rotor
- Gasket


Worn out get four parts:
1 - Rotor housing - this is seen on the picture as light color discoloration inside the cavity. As the part rubbed against the rotors that spun inside, the outer layer of the cavity lining got shaved off.
2 - Rotors - both inner and outer rotors get to be worn especially at the sides. As mentioned one side of each gets to rub against the housing cavity. Other side of each gets to rub against the gasket.
3 - Gasket...

Minor Theory...
hown above is the position of the rotors inside the housing. Both spin about own center, counter-clockwise. The shapes are matched in such manner that three cavities that are created are mutually liquid tight avoiding leakage and consequential low oil pressure. Once the gasket is placed on top, the biggest cavity creates a chamber bearing the brunt of oil delivery. The cavity on the right is shown in the position of creating suction. After the oil is replaced during the change, the suction is pneumatic during first few cranks of the engine. It is obvious that suction is created - spinning counter-clockwise this cavity is expanding while turning into the position of the biggest one on top. As the rotors turn, the biggest cavity contracts while turning into position of the cavity on the left, expelling the oil.

Shown above is covered rotor cavity by the gasket that precedes main oil body during assembly. Top rotor cavity is fully enclosed providing liquid tight chamber for oil translation within the pump.

On the condition of the parts...

Scored rotors must be replaced as they are incapable of provision of desired oil pressure. The rotors shown below are scored as well as worn to the point of being narrower than specifications call for. The rotor shaft having been grabbed could be moved alternatingly forward and backward within the pump before the desassembly.

The rotor housing must be replaced as well. The chain that pulls oil pump sprocket creates torque about the point that sits the butt of inner rotor within main body of the oil pump. Pulling the axis up, the chain forces the rotors to rub more against bottom half of the housing creating clearance with time.

The gasket must be replaced as well, it is intermediate part that participates in movement. It may be noted that sealing of the chamber created on top of the housing may be imperfect as the gasket provides small openings on both ends of the chamber. Designing custom gasket that ensures good coverage of that chamber by 1/32 of an inch may be interesting idea.

Pump removal...
I used this technique by myself a couple of times on the street in order to expose and remove oil pump of m30 in e34:

1 - Set the engine at TDC of cylinder #1
2 - Dismount the exhaust by removing the hangers at the resonator and the muffler.
3 - Drain the oil.
4 - Disengage connectors for these sensors - oil pressure, idle control valve, coolant level.
5 - Dismount coolant expansion tank and push away to the left.
6 - Remove the plate that supported coolant expansion tank.
7 - Remove top nuts from engine mounts.
8 - Raise the car onto jackstands supporting at front mounting points.
9 - Disconnect exhaust at transmission.
10 - Remove the bolts that mount oil pan to transmission. Regular 8mm socket will do.
11 - Remove 10mm bolts along the perimeter of oil pan.
12 - Disengage the connector for oil level sender.
13 - Disengage steering pump from its bracket and push away to the left.
14 - Remove steering pump bracket.
15 - Remove bottom nuts from engine mounts. KEEP the mounts in place.
16 - Use the jack under front cross member to raise the car.
17 - Remove jack stands, placing one to support the engine directly under the engine mounting BANK for the bracket of air conditioning compressor.
18 - The jack stand should be extended about a foot and a half for sufficient room.
19 - SLOWLY drop the car, observing placement of compressor bracket and coolant expansion tank. The engine should not move too much to the side as the car is lowered. Drop only much enough for the engine to stop moving with respect to the car. The jack must be under cross member supporting the car. Lift just a bit to make sure that the car's body does not recline on the engine BUT is fully supported by the jack.
20 - With enough extension of jack stand the engine rises with respect to the car providing enough room to remove oil pan through minor maneuvering.
21 - Withraw the pan.
22 - Slowly raise the car using the jack at cross member. Watch for engagement of engine mounts with engine stands.
23 - Remove jack stand, place both jack stands at front mounting points, and drop the car on them.
24 - Undo the nut that holds oil pump sprocket, and slowly pull the sprocket off the rotor shaft.
25 - Undo 3 bolts that secure oil pump to the engine, finalizing removal of the sprocket off the rotor shaft.

Remember: I bear no responsibility for negligent and/or harmful actions of individuals in relation to this information...

http://web.archive.org/web/20070402075512/http://mysite.verizon.net/vzerdcib/e34a/id5.html

[632 Regal]

Pictures would help.

[shogun]

pics are in the link I posted above from wayback machine

[shogun]

Reparaturanleitung / Motorschmierung / Ölpumpe aus- und einbauen/prüfen / M10/M30 Motor
Befestigungsmuttern für Antriebskettenrad abschrauben und Kettenrad abnehmen. Paßscheibe abnehmen.
Ölpumpe abschrauben und herausnehmen - Pfeile-. Vorher gegebenenfalls Sicherungsbleche an den Schrauben durch umbiegen öffnen.
Antriebswelle der Oelpumpe von Hand drehen und dadurch Oelpumpe auf Leichtgängigkeit prüfen. Oelsieb in Kraftstoff reinigen. Ölpumpendeckel abschrauben und Gehäuse sowie Rotoren auf Riefen und Abnutzung prüfen. Mit Fühlerblattlehre Radialspiel zwischen Außenrotor/Pumpengehäuse prüfen. Sollwert: 0,1 - 0,15 mm. Axialspiel Rotor/Pumpengehäuse mit Lineal und Fühlerblattlehre prüfen, Sollwert: 0,04 - 0,1 mm. Spaltmaß zwischen Innen- und Außenrotor wie in der Abbildung gezeigt prüfen. Sollwert: 0,12 - 0.20 Mm. Gegebenenfalls Oelpumpe ersetzen. Ölüberdruckventil aus der Oelpumpe herausnehmen. Kolben auf Leichtgängigkeit prüfen und Länge der Druckfeder messen. Sollwert in entspanntem Zustand: 68 mm.
Einbau
Überdruckventil mit neuem Dichtring einsetzen. Ölpumpendeckel anschrauben. Ölpumpe ansetzen, dabei neuen o-Ring zwischen Gehäuse und Oeldruckleitung einsetzen. Darauf achten, daß die Oelbohrung im Distanzblech mit der Oelbohrung im Motorblock fluchtet. Kettenrad in die Antriebskette einsetzen und auf die Pumpenachse aufschieben. Paßscheibe auf die Pumpenachse aufschieben. Befestigungsmuttern für Pumpenrad mit 9 nm festziehen. Pumpe mit 22 nm festschrauben. Spannung der Antriebskette durch Daumendruck prüfen. Bei leichtem Druck muß sich die Kette etwas eindrücken lassen. Achtung: die Kettenspannung wird durch unterlegen mit entsprechender Anzahl Distanzbleche - 1 4 - zwischen Pumpe und Motorblock eingestellt, siehe Abbildung w-1216. Wenn die Spannung der Kette zu gering ist, dickere Distanzbleche einbauen. Ölwannenunterteil einbauen. Link mit Zeichnung http://www.bmw5er.net/m10_m30_motor-90.html
====================================
Repair instructions / Engine lubrication / Remove and install/check oil pump / M10/M30 engine

Unscrew fastening nuts for drive sprocket and remove sprocket. Remove shim washer.
Unscrew and remove oil pump - arrows-. If necessary, open the locking plates on the screws beforehand by bending them over.
Turn drive shaft of oil pump by hand and thus check oil pump for smooth running. Clean oil strainer in fuel. Unscrew oil pump cover and check housing and rotors for scoring and wear. Check radial clearance between outer rotor/pump housing with feeler gauge.
Nominal value: 0.1 - 0.15 mm.
Check axial clearance rotor/pump housing with ruler and feeler blade gauge, nominal value: 0.04 - 0.1 mm.
Check gap dimension between inner and outer rotor as shown in the figure. Nominal value: 0.12 - 0.20 mm.
If necessary, replace oil pump.

Remove oil relief valve from oil pump. Check piston for ease of movement and measure length of compression spring. Nominal value in relaxed state: 68 mm.

Installation
Insert pressure relief valve with new sealing ring. Screw on oil pump cover. Fit oil pump, inserting new o-ring between housing and oil pressure line. Make sure that the oil hole in the spacer plate is aligned with the oil hole in the engine block. Insert the sprocket into the drive chain and push it onto the pump shaft. Push the shim washer onto the pump shaft. Tighten the fastening nuts for the pump sprocket with 9 nm. Tighten pump with 22 nm. Check the tension of the drive chain by thumb pressure. It must be possible to press the chain in slightly with light pressure.

Caution: the chain tension is adjusted by placing the appropriate number of spacer plates - 1 4 - between the pump and the motor block, see figure w-1216. If the chain tension is too low, install thicker spacer plates. Install oil pan lower part. Link with drawing http://www.bmw5er.net/m10_m30_motor-90.html
Translated with www.DeepL.com/Translator (free version)

========================
The German repair manual from Bucheli for the E32 series has following info for the oil pressure for the M30B30 and M30B35
oil pressure in idle 0.5-2.0 bar
oil pressure at max RPM 4.0-6.0 bar.
radial tolerance outer rotor/pump housing 0.1-0.15mm
axial play
rotor/pump housing 0.04-0.1mm
space inner/outer rotor 0.12-0.20mm
length of the over pressure spring without tension 68mm