E34 Cruise issue

[Tash_1991]

Hi all, my 1992 525iT has cruise control, but it doesnt work!! Do the E34's have a master switch, something similar to the E46???? I just want to rule out any simple fixes before i get too carried away chasing the fault deeper.

also, self levelling suspension, more trouble than its worth? Mine has S.B.S (Saggy Bum Syndrome) and im tossing up whether to just delete it, or spend the $$ and have the SLS functioning again...

Last but not least!! after the engine has some warmth in it, it starts to hunt and carry on like its dying. i replaced the plugs and that eliminated the terminal knocking in it, also improved the efficiency, but could its hunting be attributed to the coil packs, or the MAF sensor - the gauze at the back of it has been punched out by some debris.

Thanks
Tash

[ScottyWM]

Hey Tash,
Don't know what you mean about a master switch, but the cruise control on these is pretty easy to t-shoot and fix. I think BillB on here did a nice write up on refreshing his a few months ago.

Have you priced the components to the self leveling system??? Holy crap, last I checked it was over $800USD for just one of the shocks! My accumulators were shot, and both shocks were leaking when I finally replaced mine with a standard setup 2-3 years ago. I've been very happy with the results. Bavarian Auto makes a SLS delete kit that I used, but you could buy the components separately. The most time-consuming part is that with the wagon you have to remove all the floor and trim work in the cargo area to get access to the rear shock towers. Once I did that, and I had the kit, I took it to my trusted mechanic and he wrenched the old out and the new in for just the labor costs. It was less than 2 hours and about $170. By the way, I still have my old hydraulic shocks, I just couldn't bring myself to throw away something that is so expensive to replace! If you wanted to repair your leaking shocks, Shogun has done a write-up on that. The accumulators can't be repaired, they need to be replaced. My rear suspension (the car's, not mine:)) had gotten so worn out slowly thru the years that I hardly noticed how bad it was until I did the replacement and then it was like night and day difference.

[Tash_1991]

Ha! $800 is a bargain, here in Aus, they close to $800 a side from what iv been quoted!! :( i think ill just delete it, toying with the idea of either Manual conversion + Turbo it, or convert it to a toyota 2JZ-GTE... Either way, 500HP wagon. Lol!! Has anyone ever done a 2J conversion...?

[myles]

Great way to wreck a nice car by sticking some toyota crap in it.

[Tash_1991]

Its a personal thing. I love the BMW engine, but im limited turbo wise. Unless im looking in the worng places, the M50 isnt easy to get a kit for. With a 2J, power is easily extracted with standard internals, over 500HP if done right. Theyr extremely common and are very reliable. Even the N/A engines have more pull. My other option is a Gen III 5.7L V8..

[genphreak]

Its a personal thing. I love the BMW engine, but im limited turbo wise. Unless im looking in the worng places, the M50 isnt easy to get a kit for. With a 2J, power is easily extracted with standard internals, over 500HP if done right. Theyr extremely common and are very reliable. Even the N/A engines have more pull. My other option is a Gen III 5.7L V8..Tash the M50 is the best NA starting point BMW have unless you are going very modern indeed. An LS1 would be interesting, but no matter what to retain handling you have to keep the weight the same and the position correct. Plenty of room there, and I've seen GM V8s in e34s before with their own awful transmissions (manuals are fine but for some reason most seem to use autos). A step back in refinement though, only close if you use a really nice modern motor. Check out the M50s on BlownEuros (http://blowneuros.com) they are not hard to do at all, you can start light and build up to the level you want measuring return, just RHD makes the exhaust a custom job which it inevitably is anyhow.

First thing tho, get a 5 speed gearbox- (old 6 cylinder e36s have them- they are cheap for parts, and popular)

The SLS will be suffering from slightly sagged springs. If only bad when the engine is not running, the valve (switch that sits on the rear sway bar) will need a slight adjustment to lock the height when you stop the engine- else the pressure bleeds out and it sags down.

Shogun has links that cover it, as well as easy repairs for the shocks which can be done by hand without much trouble at all. You should get under there and clean it all up then isolate the oil leaks, the only real cost is the bits that leak, of which there are not many. The worst thing that can happen is an accumulator, they are about $140USD each (you have two) but are only gone when ur suspension goes hard & bangey, esp w the euro down to .80 to the AUD & the USD at parity.

Styling/Tuning/Spare parts for BMW E34 - New parts (http://www.schmiedmann.com/5_series/E34.htm)
BMA Auto Parts | Bumper to Bumper since 1978 | Oem auto parts, vw parts, sachs boge, mercedes benz parts, honda auto parts, saab parts (http://bmaparts.com)

[Tash_1991]

Im just not sure. I love the sound my Waggie makes when its sitting there idling, its a beautiful noise :P but i want a serious HP machine! Hehehe the LS1, dad has been toying with putting one in my E30 two door.. Id like to see that work!!! Ill post a pic of the car, its pretty low in the rear LOL

[Tash_1991]

75617562

It's tucking!!! lol the ride quality isn't hard like it's accumulator related... i'm not sure, i need to get keen and get under it today lol!!
dont mind the dodgy hubcaps, need to get a new set, idiot mechanic that fitted new pads before i bought it lost both of the fronts!!!!

[ScottyWM]

Boy, that sure looks familiar!

[Tash_1991]

haha!! mines even the same colour! :P i <3 my Waggie... his name is Barry Bimmalow... LOL so you just replaced the SLS in your wagon???

[ScottyWM]

Well, I deleted the SLS about 45k miles ago. Been very happy with the results. You do have to make sure all the lines are re-routed correctly as it shares fluid with the power steering system.

My paint is shot now. Clearcoat is all cracked and peeling on the bumpers. I never expected to keep the car this long but it just keeps going and going and going... Would have liked to lower the front an inch and tint the windows to make it a little more agressive looking, but don't see the point after all these years.
7564

[Tash_1991]

yeh my paint is great, im only third owner, the first two were brother and sister out west so it was never in stop/start city driving. im getting my windows done with privacy tint in the rear for my 21st from the rents, as well as some stuff from Turner motorsport and a set of wheels! going to be best b'day EVER!!
i got under the car last night and theres like a banjo bolt (maybe? i wasnt keen on getting too far under it on stands) with a steel line running from it. said line has been blocked off and is cable tied to the Diff support frame.... so my boyfriends boss has given me the use of his workshop on the weekend to try and sus a few things out!

[genphreak]

Tash, if the shocks are good, just fix your SLS. Mine is great, it maintains a great ride height and stays the same no matter what it has loaded inside (or is towing). The most expensive thing is the fluid, so unless it leaks out its dine to keep it. If worst comes to the worst, leaks are dealt with by changing the two high pressure hosts. I would expect yours to have idiot fluid (eg have been topped up with ATF, which will kill the accumulators very quickly). At the workshop it sounds like you will need replacement fluid- one must use Pentosin (codenamed CHF11S) which is a synthetic incompressible fluid- and costs a fair bit. IIRC you need 3 cans at least. BMW and BMW specialists sell it.

But if your accumulators are bad, they cost about $135 each. For other parts, if you need any, some wreckers may have the parts if they have a touring so a ring around of the major ones Australia wide may well net you a result.

If deleting the SLS, remember that the springs are not the same, you should really use non-SLS springs also, else the rear will ride too low (compared to stock) and the front too high afterwards. You can buy a pair of lowered springs for the front from King Springs instead of changing the rears, but if you want performance, you should buy all 4 (no more than $300), and I think King can set them for you so you can get the rears set perhaps 10mm taller than the sedan ones otherwise would be- unless they somehow know the touring spring settings.

[Tash_1991]

Yeh my dad is doing some work at a friends wrecking yard in Manly, and theres a burgundy touring coming in, so im goin to take a trip down when i know its there, i have free reign on it :P so with any luck...
And yes id say its been topped up with ATF, the service book only has one stamp from a non-bmw dealer, and that was its last service.. Im going to Orange this morning for a job interview, so ill drop into the bmw dealer and sus it out.

[genphreak]

A way to know is that the fluid should be a light green (or if old, dark green). A small amount of ATF will darken it markedly. Often the dude that gets it with the big problem is the one who least knows what to do, so a quick flush and a fix of the main problem may be all you really need. I'm in Northern Sydney, and need a few little things, if there is any chance to join you there I'd love to take 2nds! ;) I doubt it's a manual though... maybe a e36? Perhaps it is worth buying. Oh and if you like I can trade with you a manual pedal box and a slave cylinder with plumbing.

[Tash_1991]

No its deffo an E34, dad went and checked it out, but didnt get close enough to confirm manual/auto. Its inly coming to the wreckers caus the guy that owns it is flying back to turkey or wherever country he comes from lol dads gone back down today to work over the weekend so he will check in to see how far off it is..