ec mirror and locking problem-interrelated?

[Russell]

Is the door locking/security system (Alpine) on a 95 525i tied in any way to the wiring for an Electro Chromatic (EC) rearview mirror? I know it is on the 540i as it uses a different security system.

In my wisdom I tried to install an e38 EC mirror. I pulled several of the wires and left pins 1, 3 and 10 connected from the mirror’s 10 pin connector. Mirror worked fine. Everything worked fine until I tried to unlock the car. I get the “double lock unlock and lock” with car staying locked. Pull the mirror and reinsert the wires back into the connector. Same problem!

What is going on? Perhaps it is a separate door locking issues and just a coincidence? Somehow I don’t think so. I am starting to get a bit gun shy on doing any mods to this car. J

[Russell]

Anyone know if the so called “initialization block” that can happen when you unplug a portion of the 94/95 540i security system without disconnecting the battery (including the EC mirror) can affect the 1995525i. The block apparently causes the locking system to act in a way similar to my problem. It causes the locks to double cycle and then lock when trying to open the car with the key.

From other forum posts it seems that only the dealer (if they have the old factory equipment) or an indy/dealer with a BMW GT1 factory suite can clear the problem.

Heck I don’t know if any of this is correct. I am speculating and hoping to find a solution.

[genphreak]

The BMW DIS will interrogate the system and show up any problems. Best to be sure of the wiring with the EC mirror installed, go see a stealer and pay for their time (unless you can work with someone else who has a DIS- and has experience using it). Beware that the DIS is very difficult to get going w E34 as it is pre-OBD and the many ebay interfaces really only work with later models. If someone who understands the DIS cannot get your car going with the EC mirror, (I imagine that positive responses should be possible from the DWA and EWS system), then swap back to the old one.

[Russell]

good advice. However, my original mirror is back in the car and problem presists.

[genphreak]

Have you done the lock reset procedure? BTW you may know already, but in the benefit of clarity: you do not have any EWS problem (the engine would not start if you did) and the locks cycling when unlocked may be caused by something else. Be sure to check the tailgate wiring loom where it wears and if you can connect to the DIS it will tell you if an actuator, and/or the alarm is reporting faults.

DWA can screw things up of course, check the links Shogun provided for good info there.

[Russell]

Have you done the lock reset procedure? BTW you may know already, but in the benefit of clarity: you do not have any EWS problem (the engine would not start if you did) and the locks cycling when unlocked may be caused by something else. Be sure to check the tailgate wiring loom where it wears and if you can connect to the DIS it will tell you if an actuator, and/or the alarm is reporting faults.

DWA can screw things up of course, check the links Shogun provided for good info there.

Thanks. Tried the lock sync if that is what you mean by reset. No help. even disconnected the power for 30 minutes. Noticed that the trunk does not seem to lock when doors are locked. Will lock with key. Need to check wiring as you suggest. Do not see any obvious wear points on trunk wiring. Where and how do you check trunk wiring?

[shogun]

trunk does not lock? Maybe a broken wire loom, here a pic from a Touring, after opening it up
ImageShack® - Online Photo and Video Hosting (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/220/kabelbruchtorng9zv.jpg/)
Its worth checking the wiring loom where it goes into the boot.
E34 often has trouble with the boot lid wiring loom where it flexes when the boot opens or shuts (wires break)

[Bill R.]

If the trunk doesn't lock or unlock with the others then thats the problem why the locks acting up. Fix the trunk actuator or harness and then resynch the locks.

[Russell]

If the trunk doesn't lock or unlock with the others then thats the problem why the locks acting up. Fix the trunk actuator or harness and then resynch the locks.

Thanks, I think it is the actuator. I sure wish I understood BMW electrical systems better. May take a look at it tommorrow. Should be warmer.

[genphreak]

Here's the fix: I was working on the 540 on the weekend, swapped it's chunky mirror with the auto-only-adjusting EC mirror, and all was good. Looked at the TIS diagrams, and concluded that if your mirror is from a late model car it might do something different with the connections through pin 6. The late model mirror seems not to use it- but the late e34 loom connects this back to the GM, yet I've tested all sorts of conditions and there seems no purpose for it at all.

Remove that from the connector and tape it off carefully so it won't snag/conduct on anything in the hood-lining. The connector slides apart if you pry with a very small flat screwdriver.

Then your locks will work like normal, the mirror will dim at times in the night as it should- and lighten up when you go in reverse, etc.

[Russell]

Here's the fix: I was working on the 540 on the weekend, swapped it's chunky mirror with the auto-only-adjusting EC mirror, and all was good. Looked at the TIS diagrams, and concluded that if your mirror is from a late model car it might do something different with the connections through pin 6. The late model mirror seems not to use it- but the late e34 loom connects this back to the GM, yet I've tested all sorts of conditions and there seems no purpose for it at all.

Remove that from the connector and tape it off carefully so it won't snag/conduct on anything in the hood-lining. The connector slides apart if you pry with a very small flat screwdriver.

Then your locks will work like normal, the mirror will dim at times in the night as it should- and lighten up when you go in reverse, etc.

Thanks. this verified that my EC hookup had worked fine. I had pin 6 disconnected and the mirror worked fine. but my locks went crazy. I am embarrased to say it was a 7.5 amp fuse under the back seat that was hidden by a large cable. I must have shorted pin 6 or another wire while I had the key on. I will reinstall the ec mirror when I can. While the door locks/gas door lock works perfectly, my trunk lock still does not work. Seems the actuator is bad. It is on order from BMA.

[Russell]

First item; Found a brown 7.5 amp fuse under the back seat had failed. The fuse mostly hidden under a wire bundle. I should have noticed it the first time I checked! The door locks now work fine. However my trunk still still not lock/unlock when I lock/unlock the doors, Need to figure that one out. I think it is the actuator.

Second item; Replaced the actuator this weeked. Locking problem solved. Easy fix. Part made by VDO and purchased from BMA is CA. Locking problem had nothing to do with EC mirror. :)