BennyM
08-05-2012, 06:27 PM
....questionS. I'm making a new post after scouring the archives and bruno's site and discovering that the factory alarms differ bit from year to year, and a lot of the write-ups make conflicting assumptions about all locks or alarm modules working the same way.
For the past two years, I've had the following problems.
1.When I lock the car from the key FOB or the driver's door, the doors lock and then unlock right away.
2. Locking the passenger door or the trunk cylinder does not trigger the other doors to lock.
I checked fuses, patched the wiring harness to the trunk lid, and replaced the trunk and passenger door actuators. No improvement. So, I dug out the multimeter and discovered that the positive wires that would normally power each actuator to send the "Locked" or "Unlocked" signal to the General Module were dead. I dug under the rear seat and found that the hot side of the fuse socket had a full 12v from the battery and the other side of the socket registered .02v to ground, which I can't explain at all. So, there's a bad connection somewhere between the two actuators and the fuse. I guess the next step would be to disconnect everything and see if there's a broken connection below the rear electrical box where the wires split off to the front and back of the car....not looking forward to that. Has anyone ever experienced this problem? Is there anything else I should check before I start pulling out modules and fuse leads?
Another symptom that cropped up since my testing yesterday is that, now, when I get the car to stay locked, the alarm goes off 5-10 seconds later. I know the tilt sensor can cause that, but having that die at the same time that I start testing stuff seems like quite the coincidence, don't you think? What else could cause the alarm to behave this way?
All insight and experience in locking, alarm, and rear-seat wiring is greatly appreciated.
For the past two years, I've had the following problems.
1.When I lock the car from the key FOB or the driver's door, the doors lock and then unlock right away.
2. Locking the passenger door or the trunk cylinder does not trigger the other doors to lock.
I checked fuses, patched the wiring harness to the trunk lid, and replaced the trunk and passenger door actuators. No improvement. So, I dug out the multimeter and discovered that the positive wires that would normally power each actuator to send the "Locked" or "Unlocked" signal to the General Module were dead. I dug under the rear seat and found that the hot side of the fuse socket had a full 12v from the battery and the other side of the socket registered .02v to ground, which I can't explain at all. So, there's a bad connection somewhere between the two actuators and the fuse. I guess the next step would be to disconnect everything and see if there's a broken connection below the rear electrical box where the wires split off to the front and back of the car....not looking forward to that. Has anyone ever experienced this problem? Is there anything else I should check before I start pulling out modules and fuse leads?
Another symptom that cropped up since my testing yesterday is that, now, when I get the car to stay locked, the alarm goes off 5-10 seconds later. I know the tilt sensor can cause that, but having that die at the same time that I start testing stuff seems like quite the coincidence, don't you think? What else could cause the alarm to behave this way?
All insight and experience in locking, alarm, and rear-seat wiring is greatly appreciated.