530iBall
11-23-2012, 04:26 PM
For awhile now, I was having a problem where if I attempted to lock the doors, all the doors would instantly unlock unless I locked the passenger door. This didn't seem like a synchronization problem but more of a mechanical one. The GM would attempt to lock all of the doors, sense that the front passenger lock wasn't budging, and unlock all the doors like it's supposed to. Even with a key, the passenger door lock was difficult to turn, almost as if there were fudge in the works. I have looked at DIY's here and elsewhere on the web, consulted my Bentley guide which usually only serves to confuse me even more, and concluded that the best thing to do was to remove the door actuator to see if needed a little TLC or replacement. I should have poured myself a drink instead.
After removing the door panel (I'm proud to say that each and every clip stayed in the metal - not one came away with the panel), I removed the lower window guide, and the three T30's holding the mechanism inside the door frame. I disconnect the power. For the life of me I couldn't see how to get the mechanism out with the connecting rod to the door knob attached and was equally bewildered on how to disconnect rod from the mechanism. I jiggled and twisted and while I could feel things moving, I could not get the mechanism out of the car. With the light rapidly fading and with street traffic picking up (mind you I'm doing this on a side street in Philadelphia), I reassembled everything (I don't put the window guide back on or the door panel) and now, I can't open the door under any circumstances.
So question 1 is shouldn't yanking on the cable with the hook on it open the door? Question 2, how do you get the mechanism out of the door presuming I can get the door open again?
REVISED Saturday 11/24/12
The answer to question 1 is yes, as long as it is still attached to the mechanism which, thankfully it was - so problem 1 solved. Still looking for help on #2. Does either the bowden cable or the door knob rod (for lack of a better term) have to be removed in order to drop the mechanism and if so, how does one go about it?
After removing the door panel (I'm proud to say that each and every clip stayed in the metal - not one came away with the panel), I removed the lower window guide, and the three T30's holding the mechanism inside the door frame. I disconnect the power. For the life of me I couldn't see how to get the mechanism out with the connecting rod to the door knob attached and was equally bewildered on how to disconnect rod from the mechanism. I jiggled and twisted and while I could feel things moving, I could not get the mechanism out of the car. With the light rapidly fading and with street traffic picking up (mind you I'm doing this on a side street in Philadelphia), I reassembled everything (I don't put the window guide back on or the door panel) and now, I can't open the door under any circumstances.
So question 1 is shouldn't yanking on the cable with the hook on it open the door? Question 2, how do you get the mechanism out of the door presuming I can get the door open again?
REVISED Saturday 11/24/12
The answer to question 1 is yes, as long as it is still attached to the mechanism which, thankfully it was - so problem 1 solved. Still looking for help on #2. Does either the bowden cable or the door knob rod (for lack of a better term) have to be removed in order to drop the mechanism and if so, how does one go about it?