7 years of sitting-90 535i

[underdog25bb]

Hi, I'm new to bimmernut as well as new to being a bmw owner. I have a 1990 535i with 92k miles that before coming into my grasp had not been run in 7 years, the good thing is it was stored all that time in a storage garage so the body is near mint minus a few scuffs here n thier. I have the car running but was wondering, aside from what i have already done to it, what all else, if anything, anyone would recommend i change out before running daily. Here is a list of the basic things i changed out before getting the car started:

-new battery
-new oil & filter
-drained old gas
-new spark plugs
-new air filter
-new fuel filter


Any suggestions or advice will be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

[south26]

I would be worried about all of the hoses and mounts. after 7 years they have dried out and got hard, which will lead to them breaking.


Andy

[underdog25bb]

I've checked all those out & i probably should have said that in the original post. I found service records with the car & all the hoses, thermostat, & radiator had been changed at 72K miles before it was parked. Also, along with those records I found service records where the lower ball joints, brakes, rotors, brake fluid, & control arms had all been changed at the same mileage. I dont have plates on the car yet so i havent actually been able to take it on a drive and see how they do. Also, i forgot to mention in the first post its an automatic. Thanks, Ill keep an eye on them.

[shogun]

inspection II is a good check list list for preventive maintenance and also helps here

BMW INSPECTION II SERVICE SCHEDULE – Check List

VEHICLE RAISED ON HOIST:- Engine at operating Temperature
Remove Engine shield.
Drain engine oil and replace oil filter and sump plug washer.
Check transmission for leaks including coolant line of final drive.
Drain Automatic Transmission oil (except 5hp30).
Refill automatic transmission (transmissions without dipstick only).
Change manual transmission oil all models (except E36[M40,M42,M50]E34[M40,M50,M60]and E31[M70] engines which are to be changed every second insp II service).
Replace rear axle oil (E38 Every 2nd inspection II).
Replace oil in transfer box and front axle final drive (4WD).
Check clutch driven plate for wear, every 2nd Inspection II.
Renew main fuel filter: Petrol engines every 2nd Inspection II.
Check P.A.S system for leaks.
Check radiator bottom hose for leaks.
Check driveshaft gaiters for leaks.
Check Steering for freedom from play.
Check condition of track rod and front axle ball joints.
Check steering box for leaks, check UJs couplings and flexible gaiters.
Check all connections and lines on braking system for leaks, damage and correct position including
handbrake cables and bleed nipple covers.
Check Fuel pipes, tank and connections for leaks, damage and position.
Check condition, position and mounting of exhaust system
Inspect underside of body for corrosion/underseal damage etc (every 2 years except E30).
Refit engine shield.

LOWER VEHICLE TO HALF-WAY POSITION
Remove road wheels.
Remove brake pads/linings, clean and check for wear.
Check wheel cylinders and dust seals for leaks.
Check brake disc/drum surface.
Check handbrake lever travel, movement of handbrake cables and adjustment.
Check on rear disc brake models, handbrake lining wear.
Grease wheel centring spigots for alloy wheels.
Check shock absorbers for leaks.
Check torque of wheel air deflector E34/M5 1st inspection II only.
Refit road wheels.
Check condition of tyres if uneven wear recommend wheel alignment check.
VEHICLE ON GROUND
Inspect bodywork for corrosion, stone chips, damage or contamination (every 2 years except E30).
Check fluid level concentration of screen wash reservoir.
Refill engine oil.
Refill automatic transmission oil.
Remove spark plugs.
Check and adjust valve clearances. Replace rocker cover gasket.
Renew spark plugs.
Lubricate door mechanism hinges.
Replace Micro-filter and active carbon filter (if applicable) in heating/air con system.
Replace air recirculation filter: Every 2nd inspection II (if applicable).
E31 only: Clean intake-air separator in front of intake air silencer.
Renew air intake filter.
Check P.A.S hose clips for tightness & P.A.S fluid level.
Check brake system connections including ABS for tightness and positioning.
Lubricate throttle linkages and gate mechanisms on Carburettor models.
Check clutch hose connections for tightness and positioning.
Check clutch fluid level.
Check brake fluid level (renew fluid every 2 years, 750i annually).
Check battery acid level.
Carry out battery condition check, use battery test report.
Check condition/tightness coolant hoses.
Check tension/condition of all V belts (except M70 engine).
Replace all V belts E34/M5 only (S38 engine).
Check coolant level and consentration (renew every 3 years)(M3/M5 every 2 years).
Self levelling suspension: check fluid level.
Check spare wheel condition.
Check wheel stud torque and tyre pressures.
Check intensive cleaner level.
Check correct operation of lambda probe.
Replace fire extinguisher cartridge annually.
E36 M3 only: Renew throttle valve potentiometer.
ADDITIONAL ITEM EVERY 36000 MILES OR 3 YEARS
Replace toothed cambelt M20 & M40 engines.
ENGINE TEST
Cars with distributor; check the dwell angle and adjust ignition timing if necessary.
Call up information on defects stored in diagnosis system.
Check EML safety path circuit.
Check idle speed except on vehicles with idle speed control.
Check CO reading (except catalyst version).
CHECK OPERATION OF LIGHTS WITH ASSISTANT
FRONT
Side lights.
Dipped beam.
Main beam.
Headlight flasher.
Foglights/Driving lights.
Indicators and side repeaters.
Hazard warning flashers.
Parking lights.
Check beam settings.
REAR
Side lights
Number plate light.
Brake lights.
Reversing lights.
Fog lights.
Indicators.
Hazard warning flashers.
Boot interior lamp.
INTERIOR
Interior and reading lights.
Ashtray lights.
Glovebox light.
Panel lights including dimmer.
Clock light.
Switches and heater control lighting.
Check all warning lights including Active check control.
Check operation of heater/vent controls and blower.
Check operation of door mirrors.
Check horn all segments.
Check operation of sunroof.
Check operation of convertable roof. (Mmmmm).
Check condition, operation of seat belts.
Check wipers, blades, jet aim on windscreen and headlight washer systems.
Check engine compartment light.
Check door, bonnet & boot locks and striker plates adjustment and lubrication.
ROAD TEST
Check engine operation.
Check clutch operation.
Check transmission operation including EH gearbox.
Check steering operation.
Check steering wheel alignment.
Check foot brake operation.
Check handbrake balance-on cars fitted with rear discs: bed in handbrake.
Check wheel balance.
Check propshaft balance.
Check speedometer operation.
Check distance and trip recorder operation.
Check engine revolution counter operation.
Check temperature gauge operation.
Check fuel gauge operation.
Check fuel consumption gauge operation.
Check heater/air conditioning operation.
Check on-board computer operation including head-up display.
Check for wind noise, rattles etc.
FINAL ITEMS
Check ATF level
Activate Service interval indicator
Ensure handbook service record is completed.
----------------------------------------------------------------------
then come back to us with the list of non working items. I assume for example the aircon will not work as the ac compressor shaft seal is dry and leaked. Seal can be replaced, or a reman compressor. Instructions are on the web. Also the fuel pump will probably be dead = stuck, as dried up or rusted. Open the lid of the fuel tank and inspect the tank inside. I had the same problem with my E32 Highline 750iL which parked here for 6 years, tank corroded, fuels pumps dead. I made a simple rust cure with the tank removed like this
http://www.instructables.com/id/Electrolysis-rust-removal-motorbike-fuel-tank/

Transmission fluid check is here in
BMW knowledge base - Free Technical BMW library
BMWtech.htm (http://www.europeantransmissions.com/Bulletin/BMWtechinfo.htm)
Wiring diagrams are here
E34 (1988 to 1995 5 Series) Wiring Diagrams (http://shark.armchair.mb.ca/~dave/BMW/e34/)
VIN decoder is here
BMWVin.com (http://bmwvin.com/)
parts catalog
Welcome, BMW fans! (http://bmwfans.info/)
RealOEM.com * Online BMW Parts Catalog (http://www.realoem.com/bmw/select.do?lang=enUS)
shop manuals
BMWTIS -- Repair Information (http://www.bmwtechinfo.com/repair/main/)
owners manual
bmwe34manual (http://luuk.xs4all.nl/bmwboeken/bmwe34manual/)

[632 Regal]

Belts and waterpump would be on the main ingredient list. Sounds like most maintenance was replaced.

[genphreak]

I'd do a full drain of the coolant, run water for a day, then put in new cool blue BMW **** or some of Prestone's piss.

[underdog25bb]

thanks for the help but now i seem to have a different problem that i cant quite figure out. I driven the car for 600 miles since i got it running. I noticed today after a trip to deep creek md & back that my speedometer isnt working properly. The tachometer works, but the gas mileage meter underneath doesnt, and it also seems that my mileage has stopped counting. Any Ideas?

[underdog25bb]

Well I'm thinking i just had a loose wire. I went on to read another post with similar problems & i hit the dash n it worked. about a half hour later upon starting my car up again it hasnt happened since. Guess ill just keep an eye on that.

[shogun]

or the capactitors were completely empty or are getting old. That was a main problem with the grey back clusters which were used first, then came white and blue backs.
You can solder in new capacitors for a few $
BMW E32 - Dash Capacitor Replacement (http://bmwe32.masscom.net/johan/dash_caps/dash_caps.html)
or remove the cluster and spray the 4 connectors in the back with contact spray.
Here are all pinouts
Steckerbelegung Kombi (http://www.e32-schrauber.de/bmw/s-stecker-kombi.htm)

[genphreak]

The sensor is in the diff housing, easy to see from the back of the car. Check the wiring is okay; look for damage and corrosion/oxidation damage. Look in the connector. The sensor can fail to. Beware of damaging the connector, they are brittle and easily broken. Use some penetrant to remove it, and clean the connection careuly w De oxidation/contact cleaner before reassembly.

[Paul in NZ]

after 7 years sitting the brake fluid (and clutch fluid) will be junk.It absorbs water just sitting there,flush immediately

[genphreak]

x200

... and should be done regularly at that. Factory reccommends once a year or so, but it can depend on how much one drives (and how much risk of failure you can accept). The less you drive, the longer it lasts- but it still absorbs water. The corrosion that causes toasts the seals in the cylinders and quickly causes the brake/clutch system to fail.

[underdog25bb]

Thanks for the help. I'm thinking that because i washed the car that day and it was a 30 degree day that i managed to freeze the connection or something. Its been working fine since my post & i checked everything & it looks fine to my eye.

However now i seem to be having a problem with my central locking system. I've scanned through the archives & have found similar problems, but none that match mine to a t. Here is the problem i'm having. My drivers door will lock & unlock all other doors except the drivers door. When i took the door panel off to take a look, the lock on the drivers door wants to move but seems like its stuck or doesnt have enough umph to get the lock moving. After reading the archive posts i'm leaning towards it being the plastic clip piece on the door handle. Just doesnt seem like the actuator since its trying to move. But i'm also not an expert so this is my question. What do i look for? I cant seem to get a clear view in any manuals or anything to see what i'd be looking for in the door clip piece. Is it the actuator, or am i just not synchronized?