window scissor arm plastic bushing help

[RobPatt]

the round plastic bushing in the red circle is broken... where do I get one?

note...it's not the regular slider that everyone deals w/that holds the window..

here's a pick of the broken one...

7725 help! - Thanks.

Rear window woes...
-Rob7724

[shogun]

How about this?
Auto Pro. Window Regulator Repair Kit BMW E36 E34 318i 320i 325i 328i 330i 518i 520i 525i 530i 535i 540i 525td Compact Sedan and Touring

Auto Pro. Window Regulator Repair Kit BMW E36 E34 318i 320i 325i 328i 330i 518i 520i 525i 530i 535i 540i 525td Compact Sedan and Touring Repair kit for window regulator of BMW E36 and E34 is presented. One set contain 1 piece of stop disc and 2 pieces of sliding bush for 1 window regulator. When these kits break out, it makes window lifter fail or not function properly. With these kits, your windows can run up and down smoothly. Now you can return windows the way they operated when the car left from the factory. You can instant replace this kit instead of the old broken one. This kit is exported parts from ISO manufacturer. For your reference, these repair kits are aftermarket part number 5132938884 and 51328186712. It is new never been used condition. Don’t need to order a new complete window regulator. Save you money!
Window Regulator Repair Kit BMW E36 E34 318i 520i 525i | eBay (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Window-Regulator-Repair-Kit-BMW-E36-E34-318i-520i-525i-/140908173720?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item20cec81998)

*DIY e34 Rear door window regulator removal and replacement guide
by Boom n Zoom, Brisbane, Australia


Firstly I would like to apologise for the amount of photographs and some of the dubious quality of some of them, I was taking the photographs myself as I was carrying out the work and sometimes it was a little tricky to hold the job and take the photographs at the same time.
Also that it is over five seperate posts, not trying to whore, just can't post more than 30 tags at a time.

I also hope that you guys find it useful and helpful if you ever have to tackle the job yourselves, it's not a hard proceedure, just requires patience.

Enjoy!


Well three years and four months after the rear regulators failed within a week of each other. I have finally obtained a brand new pair of Genuine Electric Rear Window Regulators at a sensible price from BMA.

The reason for the need to replace the regulators was due to the bushing on the right hand side regulator that controls the level of the glass that had popped off the arm.I had repaired it by repressing the bush back onto the ballend, but it failed a few days later again. The passengers side window also failed with a loud report and on inspection I discovered the same bushing in two pieces (split vertically) in the bottom of the door.

So after a protracted search, I have discovered that replacement bushes are simply not available as an aftermarket option, you have to replace the regulators.


The format that I am doing this is Information first, associated image following.
Just to avoid any confusion.


1. After removal of the door trim and the foam backed vinyl sound deadening material (No doubt covered elsewhere, if not I can add this) you will be faced with an electrically driven window regulator. (Note: The window is in the fully closed position here)
http://img94.imageshack.us/img94/1364/img1670g.jpg
2. Now as it has turned out someone has been in here before me and replaced the regulator before as it was not riveted in (as is the norm) and was bolted in with three 6 x 12mm (3/16th" x 1/2") bolts (10mm, 3/8th heads) with Nyloc nuts which is the correct method to carry out these replacements.
http://img291.imageshack.us/img291/6747/img1671b.jpg
Note2a. In the case of an original fitment the regulator assembly is riveted into the door frame.
As seen here.
http://img684.imageshack.us/img684/7987/img1770z.jpg
And here.
http://img20.imageshack.us/img20/8421/img1771wd.jpg
http://img25.imageshack.us/img25/9352/img1772ee.jpg
http://img215.imageshack.us/img215/1615/img1773ag.jpg
This will be the case with most of these assemblies to remove them.

2b. Firstly double check that the window is in the fully up position as you will have to drill out the rivets using a 6.5mm drill, and if you don't you will break the glass. If you have to replace the glass (especially if it is tinted) it will likely cost the GDP of a small African nation to obtain from the Dealer, not to mention the time it will take them to get one.
So, check the window is up then drill the rivets out using a 6.5mm HSS bit.
http://img94.imageshack.us/img94/1470/img1775ga.jpg
2c. Once they are all drilled out you can continue with the removal proceedure.
http://img835.imageshack.us/img835/3489/img1777c.jpg
3. Remove the limit switch
http://img299.imageshack.us/img299/2215/img1673g.jpg
4. Held in with an 'R' Clip (NOTE: This is the orientation of the clip, it fits between the four posts)
http://img688.imageshack.us/img688/6969/img1680jh.jpg
5. With a 10mm spanner loosen the window trim bolt so as to remove it with your fingers later.
http://img405.imageshack.us/img405/4053/img1683d.jpg
6. Connect the rear door trim window switch (this is required as you cannot drive the window, yes even from the Master without the switch connected) With the Ignition in position 2, lower the window to halfway, at least enough to access the top center bolt.
http://img713.imageshack.us/img713/7043/img1675n.jpg
Remove both the top center and the front lower regulator bolts.
http://img525.imageshack.us/img525/3375/img1679e.jpg
7. Then wind the window all the way down to clear the rear regulator bolt and nut and remove
http://img824.imageshack.us/img824/6770/img1676v.jpg
http://img256.imageshack.us/img256/8515/img1678h.jpg
8. With side cutters, snip the cable tie to release the wiring as you need to move it.
http://img440.imageshack.us/img440/992/img1689o.jpg
9. Then unplug the regulator motor (Grey two pin plug)
http://img178.imageshack.us/img178/2923/img1687n.jpg
10. Remove the window trim bolt loosened in Step 5. Then you can gently pull the regulator away from the door, but not too much as you want to slide the lower rail clips out of their tracks.
Firstly the back guide clip sliding it toward the front of the door(you may need a little force as the white grease has probably become very viscous. Keep sliding until you clear the rail.
http://img545.imageshack.us/img545/5194/img1685.jpg
11. Then carefully closing the 'scissor' of the regulator slide the assembly toward the rear of the door to remove the front guide clip.
http://img442.imageshack.us/img442/2592/img1691i.jpg
11a. The closed scissor and the angle I used to remove the front guide clip
http://img812.imageshack.us/img812/8030/img1692o.jpg
12. Once you have cleared both of the guide clips (hopefully without breaking them) you can remove the regulator and motor assembly from the door shell.
http://img713.imageshack.us/img713/3898/img1693y.jpg
13. With the regulator on the bench firstly remove the limit plate (10mm bolt)
http://img824.imageshack.us/img824/5047/img1709g.jpg
13a. The opposite side.
http://img256.imageshack.us/img256/9121/img1710w.jpg
13b. The limit assembly.
http://img825.imageshack.us/img825/3862/img1712l.jpg
14. Using a T-30 Torx bit remove the two torx head coarse thread screws from the back of the regulator holding the motor and wormdrive.
http://img715.imageshack.us/img715/4719/img1707r.jpg
15. To remove the final Torx screw you can gently lever the motor assembly away enough to disengage the drive to move the regulator arm toward you (in this picture) to clear access to the final screw.
http://img245.imageshack.us/img245/5344/img1714y.jpg
15a. to clear access to the final screw.
http://img713.imageshack.us/img713/866/img1716k.jpg
16. Once you have access undo the Torx screw.
http://img201.imageshack.us/img201/6023/img1713o.jpg
17. Once all the screws are removed separate the motor and drive assembly from the regulator frame.
http://img194.imageshack.us/img194/5342/img1718yd.jpg

Rear door Window regulator removal and replacement proceedure


18. Now for the Guide clips, I've heard plenty of people saying you should get new ones as you will break them when you remove the regulator from the door. As I hadn't ordered any (Completely forgot about them to be honest) the pressure was on to make sure I didn't break them at this point as I had got them this far without damage.

18a. Firstly remove the clip, a decent set of pliers will work here.
http://img201.imageshack.us/img201/70/img1722ap.jpg
18b. Then pivot the clip through 90 degrees.
http://img828.imageshack.us/img828/5282/img1723v.jpg
18c. Place a pair of longnose pliers between the clip and the regulator arm.
http://img153.imageshack.us/img153/6820/img1720s.jpg
18d. No need to squeeze the pliers, just pry gently upward.
http://img444.imageshack.us/img444/7904/img1724eb.jpg
18e. Repeat again for the other clip.

18f. Two guide clips removed without breakage! (Not in shot is the spring clip for the upper arm)
http://img248.imageshack.us/img248/968/img1725r.jpg
19. This black clip is to be fitted back onto the doorcard (My lefthand rear doorcard is destroyed which is why it is still clipped to the regulator) It is the secure point for the rear of the armrest. The orientation of this is the image is looking from the front of the door toward the back, the beveled edges are the top of the clip.
http://img251.imageshack.us/img251/6721/img1728zz.jpg
20. To remove the clip.

20a. Get your fingers under the clip and apply 'some' force toward you.
http://img818.imageshack.us/img818/1328/img1733.jpg
20b. With pliers (Longnose are good for this) squeeze the two spring tags closed (Still holding some tension from behind?? if not do so to allow the clip to unseat)
http://img541.imageshack.us/img541/9001/img1734n.jpg
20c. Once the tags are compressed, with your fingers pry the clip toward you.
http://img517.imageshack.us/img517/840/img1736y.jpg
20d. Remove the clip and refit to the doorcard (Sorry don't have any pictures of this step, but the cutout in the doorcard is blatently obvious.)
http://img412.imageshack.us/img412/8097/img1737i.jpg
21. Take your shiny new regulator
http://img843.imageshack.us/img843/374/img1741e.jpg
21a. Remove the limit block from this one as well and set aside.
http://img121.imageshack.us/img121/6427/img1745sc.jpg
21b. Move the regulator arm enough to access the position of the covered screw and fit all the Torx screws once the motor assembly is married up to the new regulator.
http://img706.imageshack.us/img706/6430/img1747s.jpg
21c. Once assembled move the regulator arm around to begin to engage the teeth
http://img820.imageshack.us/img820/180/img1748m.jpg
21d. With a 12v power source (I took the unit back out to the car and patched the motor back in to do this) operate the motor and move the arm to the left (as in the image) to re-engage the teeth of the regulator.
http://img175.imageshack.us/img175/8066/img1749vo.jpg
21e. Once the drive on the unit is engaged run it until there is room for the limit block.
http://img517.imageshack.us/img517/9093/img1750k.jpg
21f. Disconnect the motor from the power source and prepare to refit the limit block.
http://img43.imageshack.us/img43/1476/img1751e.jpg
21g. Re-fit the limit block.
http://img412.imageshack.us/img412/4453/img1752q.jpg
21h. Flip the unit (holding the limit block)
http://img508.imageshack.us/img508/2580/img1754x.jpg
21i Refit the top plate.
http://img844.imageshack.us/img844/8679/img1755t.jpg
21j And fit the bolt, but don't tighten it up just yet.
http://img412.imageshack.us/img412/664/img1756o.jpg
22. Now refit the guide blocks on the ball fittings.
http://img101.imageshack.us/img101/1493/img1758jj.jpg
23. Simply firmly press fit the blocks, they will click into position.
http://img230.imageshack.us/img230/3406/img1759i.jpg
24. Once they are fitted onto the ballends refit the spring clips.


25. They will just press fit into the detent grooves on either side of the guide bush.
http://img638.imageshack.us/img638/3629/img1763m.jpg
http://img193.imageshack.us/img193/900/img1764z.jpg
26. The completed Regulator ready for refiting to the door.
http://img375.imageshack.us/img375/6127/img1765m.jpg
27. Reverse the proceedure in step 10. Prior to refitting I sprayed some Dry Glide (with PTFE) into the rails to assist in the refitting. If you reverse the proceedure for taking them out i.e. the front of the door bush first then pivot the regulator to align the rear bush you should have no trouble.

28. Once the regulator is back in the guide rails you can apply power to the motor and carefully run it into position to refit the bolts and nyloc nuts. I also refit the bolt for the window trim arm, centered it and nipped it up.
http://img690.imageshack.us/img690/6507/img1767a.jpg
29. Refit the limit switch (with the 'R' clip) back into position and run the window all the way up. Reach in behind the regulator to where the limit block is fitted and check (by feel) that the regulator arm has reached the block, re-run it down and check the arm to block position again. If required you can adjust the position of the limit block (vertically) to make sure that it is contacting the arm in both positions.
http://img121.imageshack.us/img121/4224/img1766x.jpg
30. If the window rocks forward and backward you need to readjust the trim arm at the rear of the door, do not over tighten the forward position for the glass as it will cause a good deal of drag and cause premature wear on the wormdrive and could lead to failure of the regulator or the motor and wormdrive unit.
http://img690.imageshack.us/img690/6507/img1767a.jpg
31. Place another cable tie over the wiring it doesn't need to be squash tight it just needs to secure the wiring from fouling the regulator and causing a dead short.
http://img814.imageshack.us/img814/2984/img1768b.jpg
http://img842.imageshack.us/img842/8781/img1769u.jpg
Now you should have a functioning electric rear window again, it shouldn't require any adjustment, but the main two adjustment points are the limit block and the rear window trim arm. Pretty easy to check and adjust now that you have performed a remove and replacment of the regulator assembly.

Enjoy your working window

[RobPatt]

Shogun ga ichiban da na...?

Thank you! So obvious but didn't know to search for "window regulator repair kit"... now I'm going to order 4, one for each door to have on hand...

-Rob.

[shogun]

well, actually I did not know that such a kit exists till you searched for it, then I googled a bit and found that thread. Anyway, got to know for future probs.
That seller also has, in case you need, quote: Electronic Window Regulator Repair Kit E34 Item number 140907770894 Part Brand OEM Placement on Vehicle Left Manufacturer Part Number For 67628359373 and 67628359374. Auto Pro. Electronic Window Regulator Repair Kit BMW E34 518i 520i 525i 530i 535i 540i 525td M20 M50 Sedan and Touring.
Auto Pro. Electronic Window Regulator Repair Kit BMW E34 518i 520i 525i 530i 535i 540i 525td M20 M50 Sedan and Touring. Repair kit for electronic drive of BMW E34. It is drive gear for window regulator motor. One set contain 1 piece of gear only for a E34 window motor. It will be fitted with window electronic drive both driver and passenger side. You can instant replace this kit instead of the old broken one. This kit is exported parts from ISO manufacturer. For your reference, these repair kit will be fitted with electronic drive part number 67628359373 and 67628359374. Don’t need to order a new complete window motor. US $24.20 plus shipping.
unquote
Shayne has a nice write up on that here
BMW E34 Repairs Write Ups (http://www.bmw4life.com/repairs.htm)




Model

BMW

[John in CT]

The trickiest part of the door panel removal process to me was the tork head bolt holding the armrest on. It takes a bit of torque to snap it started and the angle and lenght was defeating me until I put a tork bit in a long socket (small one 1/4 inch drive) with a three inch extension, this did the trick.

Good luck,

John

[Clarksonvalley]

I bought a new scissor arm assembly for my drivers side front door - it was a non-BMW factory part. The old one had snapped out of the windows guides and bent the scissor arms due to sticking window arm slides. I could not get the new non-BMW assembly to adjust properly - the adjustable arm that bolts to the rear of the door could not be adjusted enough to keep the glass in its track. Evidently, there is too much play in the pivots of the non-BMW assembly. So, I straightened out the old arms, re-greased the arm slides and reinstalled the old original assembly - it adjusted properly and works fine. I also installed new felt guides in the door. So, beware of the non-BMW factory scissor assemblies and stick with the genuine BMW part.

Tom

[genphreak]

... So, I straightened out the old arms, re-greased the arm slides and reinstalled the old original assembly - it adjusted properly and works fine. I also installed new felt guides in the door. So, beware of the non-BMW factory scissor assemblies and stick with the genuine BMW part. Tom

Pleugh... what a PITA.

Did you send the unfit one back so they can sell it to the next guy?

LOL!

Gotta love the advances made by today's copy-tastic manufacturers and quality of the testing they do.

[RobPatt]

as shogun suggested... arrived a bit slow, but that's international mail....

worked ALMOST perfect...

the 'bearing' if you will, had a pin in the center which didn't have a way to affix to the arm it rides in...

so I just found some stainless steel "ring ding" and pins (if you're a hobie cat sailor you know...) inserted, and good to go after a minor bit of fiddling and adjusting...

https://www.google.com/search?q=hobie+ring+ding&hl=en&safe=off&tbo=d&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ei=i8cbUcyPPKHs2QXMpoD4Cg&ved=0CAoQ_AUoAQ&biw=1332&bih=925#hl=en&safe=off&tbo=d&tbm=isch&sa=1&q=hobie+ring+ding+pin&oq=hobie+ring+ding+pin&gs_l=img.3...5800.6366.0.6515.4.4.0.0.0.0.82.267.4 .4.0...0.0...1c.1.2.img.Z4yrMMTF96M&bav=on.2,or.r_gc.r_pw.r_cp.r_qf.&bvm=bv.42261806,d.b2I&fp=7cbbf7d0d4964624&biw=1332&bih=925&imgrc=Ljgl8ZbOktcO0M%3A%3B25jgLeIZyrYSGM%3Bhttp%25 3A%252F%252Fsailsportmarine.com%252Fimages%252FP71 70001.JPG.jpg%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252Fsailsportmarine .com%252Findex.php%253Fmain_page%253Dindex%2526cPa th%253D3_24_72%3B400%3B330


also replaced the plastic window sliders...

NOW finally after countless years both back windows work FLAWLESSLY.

[shogun]

congrats. So it's the "ring ding" fix.
Shipping time from Thailand to USA is then not soo long.

[genphreak]

Love, it... the "Ring-ding window fix"

Required pin:
77297730

Now you're famous, Rob! I never knew my habit for BMWs would take me to a ship chandler, but its taken me everywhere else so why the hell not? LOL!

[RobPatt]

ha ha, thanks....

as the window goes up or down it's REAL hard to put a nut on something....

See.. the original bushing/washer thing I posted has a metal shaft that goes through it which is riveted to an arm.
Meanwhile the rolling part of the bushing rolls in a track that's screwed to the door.

Well, once the axle of that bushing is IN the bushing... and the bushing is IN the track... if you put a nut on the thing it just spins, 'cause you can't hold the shaft still to screw the nut on; so you need some way to keep the ARM from popping off the end of the axle shaft.

Enter the PIN in the left picture above.. and you insert the RING (aka RING DING) (the curcular key ring thing) from the picture on the right.

Easy on, easy off.... if you sail a Hobie Cat you have billions of these things around, they more or less hold the boat together.
some of our boats are in the background... on the beach in the island on the right... if you can see it:
http://www.thebeachcats.com/files/ms-horny-island-300.jpg

or this one: http://sailinglouisiana.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/05/28328_510189404796_61500091_30452062_4405790_n.jpg

or our route: http://sailinglouisiana.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/04/trip.JPG

BMW gets all the love in winter... summer, I'm sailing.

Tomorrow is the new headliner install! Will let ya'll know how it goes.
-Rob

[shogun]

Love, it... the "Ring-ding window fix"I never knew my habit for BMWs would take me to a ship chandler, but its taken me everywhere else so why the hell not? LOL!

Guess what: my fuel hoses as well as the low pressure hydraulic hoses I bought from a ship chandler, marine fuel hoses. What works on boats, also is good enough for our cars,

example: ....is a hydraulic hose and is suitable for all commercial and recreational vessel fuel line applications. It can handle marine diesel, gasoline, gasohol fuels, and hot oil.
Temperature range: -40°F to +212°F (-40°C to +100°C) continuous service. Tube: Type C (Nitrile). Black. Oil and heat resistant. Reinforcement: Braided, high tensile steel wire.

Also ship chandlers usually have good fabric material for use as headliner material, fire resistant etc.

[ahlem]

Depending on the required dimension of the roller, Vogt Industries in Grand Rapids, MI makes roller type drawer slides that are about 25mm diameter. They have a huge box of a couple different types and could probably be persuaded to sell a handful for a reasonable price. They have roller bearing and axle types. The center axle is basically a rivet that can be peened onto all kinds of projects. If the diameter is a bit off the wheel part can be sized on a drill press.