View Full Version : Radiator
Ferrett 1962
01-29-2013, 01:59 AM
I hope everyone is enjoying a great new year. Just a quick question, I have a 95 525i and it seems to have developed a leak at the top of the radiator ( I can smell coolant and hear a hissing after driving) no big puddles under the car but coolant level drops quickly. My car is an auto but has the seperate cooler for the trans oil, I found a new radiator the right core size but it has the built in oil cooler for the gearbox. Will this work ok on my car if I just leave the oil lines as they are and just use the radiator
This is the one they are selling RADIATOR BMW 5 Series E34 E36 E39 520i 525i 530i 89-94 Auto& Manual | eBay (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/RADIATOR-BMW-5-Series-E34-E36-E39-520i-525i-530i-89-94-Auto-Manual-/200833610964?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2ec29db4d4) . Just want to know before I order will work properly or not
shogun
01-29-2013, 03:48 AM
should be o.k., just plug the trans lines, if everything else fits.
Ferrett 1962
01-29-2013, 04:30 AM
Thanks Shogun I thought it might but I am not sure how the trans cooling might affect the radiator area ( I don't know if any space is taken by the trans cooling pipes through the core ) but the difference should be minimal, and if the worst happens and the trans cooler dies I already have an option to fix it.
632 Regal
01-31-2013, 06:44 PM
The radiator trans cooler that is built into the radiator also warms the fluid.
Ferrett 1962
02-19-2013, 03:51 AM
So I fanally replaced the radiator and was able to bleed the system properly at last.
77337734
How long do you think this has been in the car, part of the top hose connector looks to be missing. Also gave up on the coolant level sensor so the hole remains blocked till I can get a new one but I think good value at $190 delivered. The seams around the side are also thicker than the original radiator so a bit of force was needed to put the fan cowling on but all fitted and working well.
shogun
02-19-2013, 04:07 AM
I guess more than 10 years old as it looks.
Cut it apart, then you see how it looks inside. We did that too to compare original Behr and after market cheap radiators.
Also you can see how much gunk is inside the old one, so if too much, then better flush the whole system.
http://8810.teacup.com/750hiline/img/bbs/0001024M.jpg
http://8810.teacup.com/750hiline/img/bbs/0001024_2M.jpg
http://8810.teacup.com/750hiline/img/bbs/0001024_3M.jpg
Ferrett 1962
02-19-2013, 04:56 AM
I was looking at the rusty crap in the old radiator and flushing is a good idea and I will do that when I replace the level sensor shortly but I had to get it ready for a 700 mile trip this weekend so just got it right for now. I did drain and replace all the coolant although I didn't use a flush through the system, the temp is now just below or at the centre of the gauge depending on how hot the day is and before the change it was at or just above centre but no coolant smell even on a hot day. I was thinking of getting the old one repaired if I could for emergency only to cover untill new parts arrive if I need them in the future, I am travelling to my brothers place and at this stage he has the correct bonnet that he picked up from Melbourne for me so I hope I will fit that while I am there. Slowly I will fix the little bits I need to and restore the old beast to it's full glory, some prick ( in a four wheel drive from the height of damage) backed into the front in a carpark and although damage is small has dented the grill and somehow broken the mounts for the left hand headlights so they rattle around and don't point the right way, the backing plate looks ok from behind any idea what parts do I need to fix them?
shogun
02-19-2013, 06:15 AM
single components for headlights are here
Lighting (http://bmwfans.info/parts/catalog/E34/Sedan/Japan/520i-M50/RHD/A/1995/may/browse/lighting/)
I used a right hand drive Japan version, that has the same headlights like the EURO version.
Check 9,10, 11 items, maybe just small parts.
You have to remove the grill part first, then you can see the details.
Ferrett 1962
02-20-2013, 03:38 AM
Thanks for that I looked on real oem but I wasn't sure what parts might be damaged so after the trip I might pull it out and see what is broken I just didn't want to in case it won't go back together without new parts but I will just have to I think. Both lamps float around not attached to anything at this time but both work.
shogun
02-20-2013, 03:59 AM
Adjusting screw 63 12 1 378 368 3
Knurled bolt 63 12 1 388 027 1
Intermediate piece 63 12 1 394 252 '89, September — ... 2
Black rubber bushing 63 12 1 378 369 6
or
Rubber bushing 63 12 1 386 616 For vehicles with: Headlight vertical aim control
genphreak
02-25-2013, 11:42 PM
Bad luck in the carpark....
when swapping the bonnet beware the loom does not plug in so you have to cut and join the wires for the washer nozzle heaters and bonnet light- and join the water pipe too. Can all be done under the bonnet pad but needs to be done carefully to avoid wear and water damage later. Best of luck f62!
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