Back to e34 after a loooong time away! New head gasket or new motor?

[miliue]

Just picked up a 1994 530i for $1000. Exterior and interior are in great condition. 117,000 miles. Man, I missed the e34!

I bought this one from the Vietnam Vets association. The mechanic there said it will need a new head gasket soon (which is why they sold it for 1,000). Now, I can have a used motor put in for about $2,200. The problem is I'll have no history on the motor, and it'll almost certainly be higher mileage than the one in there now. OR, I can try to have the dealer replace the head gasket (assuming it actually does need a new one).

I've got an appointment with the dealership for next Wednesday to give the engine an inspection to make sure the head gasket is actually failing and it's not just some other problem (like the Nikasil issue -- not sure if this motor is Nikasil or Alusil). Now, assuming it does need a new gasket, what do you guys recommend I do? Should I drop in a new (used) motor or have the head gasket replaced? I'm sure the heads will need to be replaned as well since the gasket probably just didn't fail for no reason.

I'm happy to spend whatever it takes to get this old girl in tip-top shape again. So, assuming cost isn't an issue, which option do you think I should pursue?

In a perfect world I'd find a brand new Alusil motor and put that in but until then, I'll have to make do with what's available. Thanks!

[whiskychaser]

Saying that a head gasket is going is a little like saying a girl is a bit pregnant. If you know a mechanic who can devine that a head gasket is going to fail then he is very good indeed. As to what to do, I'd take the old one apart and inspect for damage. If it is wrecked then the bits you took off will make the engine easier to remove anyway

[miliue]

Yeah, I don't trust the mechanic who told me about the head gasket. 1) He doesn't normally work on BMWs, 2) He operates a salvage yard and is also the one who said he'd install another motor for $2200...so he's got a vested interest. He could totally legit, but I want the dealer to diagnose the problem before I do anything. It does leak coolant (onto the ground) if I park the car and leave the motor running. Otherwise it doesn't leak. Maybe I'll get lucky and it turns out to be a leaking hose or cracked connector somewhere.

[ahlem]

Do a compression and leak-down test. With only 117,ooo miles I'd be thinking it isn't the head gasket.
Dealer work on this kind of project means big bucks. Do you do your own wrench turning?

[Rustam]

Now, assuming it does need a new gasket, what do you guys recommend I do?
I recommend a leakdown test. If the gasket is all that is wrong, then just replace it. The leakdown shall tell.

[Tiger]

Leakdown test is one way to figure it out. Other more obvious reason is coolant in oil (looks like milkshake) or oil in coolant (oily mess). Other way is CO detector in coolant or simply the coolant system is pressurizing beyond normal 20PSI as engine is pushing pressure into system.... it just go up and up and up.... never ending.

Don't worry about the Nikasil... if it lasted this long, it usually is not the issue... if the 'typical' nikasil shake is observed, it is most likely the engine mounts... all original engine mounts are shot by now... just by age and mileage.

Do the head gasket if needed.

[miliue]

Thanks, all! I don't seem to have coolant in oil, but I do see some oil in the coolant. Not much but when I looked in the reservoir I did see a spot floating in there. I do minor wrench-turning at home but don't have the knowledge or time to replace the head gasket on my own and I'd be screwed if I stripped a bolt. I know it'll be expensive to have the dealer do it but there aren't any local indies that I trust (Ann Arbor, MI if anyone has a recommendation) and I want to make sure it's done right!

The engine runs beautifully so I'm hopeful there isn't too much damage.

[Rustam]

don't have the knowledge or time to replace the head gasket on my own and I'd be screwed if I stripped a bolt.

Get a Bentley Publishers repair manual for e34. It explains how to open the engine properly step by step, to change the head gasket. I recommend doing this yourself, rather than paying big money for it.


it'll be expensive to have the dealer do it
First must be done compression check and leak down test, to see if the gasket is needed at all...

[miliue]

Good news! Dealer did an inspection and doesn't think anything's wrong with the head gasket. Instead "valve covers and upper timing covers are leaking, valley pan is leaking, all PS lines are leaking." So a lot is going on under the hood but it's all stuff I think I can do myself. I've done valve cover gaskets on a 92 525 before and although I hear it's more difficult on the M60, it sounds like it's just more frustrating/tedious than the I6, not more technically challenging. Likewise for the valley pan. The timing covers are a bit bigger of a job so I might just hold off on those for now and possibly pay an indy to do them.

I think I should be able to do everything myself over a couple of weekends. That said, here are all the parts I'm going to pick up. Figure I might as well to the Tstat and water pump while I'm in there. Not sure about how to get all the PS hose parts I'll need (although I found this: DIY: M60 Power Steering Hose Replacement (http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?1833643-DIY-M60-Power-Steering-Hose-Replacement)). I figure I'll just replace them all to be safe -- there's too much oil/fluid everywhere to know for sure which ones are leaking. I'm also getting a 1213 error code, which I imagine is a fouled 02 sensor. I'll replace both of those while I'm at it.

Since the engine mounts are covered with oil right now, I figure I should probably replace them too. Is there anything I'm missing? Anything else I should replace while I'm in there? The weather is just starting to turn nice again so I figured I'd use this as an excuse to spend a few days outside and with my car!

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11 14 1 736 106 Valley Pan Cover - Black Plastic - Installs Over Top Of Valley Pan/Gasket Assembly (for my 1994 530i)
$16.95

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11 14 1 742042K Valley Pan Gasket Kit (for my 1994 530i)
$149.95

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11 12 9 069 871 Valve Cover Gasket - right - Cyl 1-4 (for my 1994 530i)
$16.95

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11 12 1 726 537 Valve Cover Bolt Rubber Seal - sold individually - Genuine BMW (for my 1994 530i)
$1.95 x 15 = $29.25

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11 12 9 069 872 Valve Cover Gasket - Left - Cyl 5-8 (for my 1994 530i)
$16.95

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11 12 1 726 537 Valve Cover Bolt Rubber Seal - sold individually - Genuine BMW (for my 1994 530i)
$1.95 x 15 = $29.95

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13 71 1 741 097 Valley Pan Cover Retaining Plug - 4 Required Per Cover (for my 1994 530i)
$0.95 x 4 = $3.80

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11 61 1 729 728 Intake Manifold Gasket - Rear (for my 1994 530i)
$5.95

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SS M12X1.5 Magnetic Oil Drain Plug - Dimple (for my 1994 530i)
$29.95

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07 11 9 919325K Oil Drain Plug w/crush ring- 17mm head (for my 1994 530i)
$2.95

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11 53 1 702279K Thermostat and Seal Ring (for my 1994 530i)
$24.95

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11 51 1 742498K Water Pump and Gasket (for my 1994 530i)
$119.95

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82 14 1 467 704 Antifreeze - 1 Gallon - Genuine BMW (for my 1994 530i)
$22.95 x 2 = $45.90

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11 28 1 469 255 Belt - Serpentine 7k x 1580 Alternator / Water Pump / Power Steering (for my 1994 530i)
$32.95

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13 231 Bosch Oxygen Sensor (for my 1994 530i)
$80.95 x 2 = $161.90

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OSW1 Oxygen Sensor Tool - SIR Tools (for my 1994 530i)
$18.95

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F7LDCR Spark Plug - BOSCH (for my 1994 530i)
$4.95 x 8 = $39.60

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2012 Liqui Moly Anti-Seize Compound - 100g (for my 1994 530i)
$6.95

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Total: $753.10