Type and quality tie-rod puller needed for upper control arm removal?

[Russell]

I want to replace my upper thrust/control arms on my frotn suspension. I am not sure what type of tie-rod puller I need for the job. I am not doing the lower control arms at this time. I do not want to destroy the rubber tie-rod seal as I am just going to replace the old 750i bushings with M5 bushings. Bit worn after 100,000 miles.

[shogun]

see notes from Rustam
BMW E34 Website (http://www.bmwe34.net/E34main/Maintenance/Suspension/Upper_arm.htm)

[Tiger]

If you got 100k miles on your thrust arm, you best change that too. The job is easier with new thrust arm... bcause you got the thrust arm ready to install... you don't have to stop and go get them pressed out and in.

Scissor type is what you want... to save the rubber ball joint cover.

[Russell]

If you got 100k miles on your thrust arm, you best change that too. The job is easier with new thrust arm... bcause you got the thrust arm ready to install... you don't have to stop and go get them pressed out and in.

Scissor type is what you want... to save the rubber ball joint cover.

Might get new arms. Just trying to save a bit of money.

[Russell]

Thanks, Hopeing to savemoney by just doing the bushings.

[Tiger]

at 100K... the ball joint of the thrust arm is also shot... will give you clunking and vibration noises... not worth trying to save money on.

[genphreak]

Most important thing I can think of for a noob to know pulling tie-rods and suspension arms,

i. don't take the nut right off, just loosen it so a few threads so the nut is still on the end by at least a few threads.
ii. Put pressure on the joint using the puller, but not don't actually pull the joint apart by winding the puller's nut or bolt: With a little pressure put on the joint, you just tap a strong piece of metal closest to the joint with a 4lb hammer and it will pop out.
iii. Undo the nut and remove.

I broke 2 pullers doing that on my first 5er, until someone showed me.

[Russell]

Thanks, I just may replace the entire arm. I replace them with lemforders with 750i bushings about 100,000 ago and hate the thoufght of spending excess money. However, I may be trying to be too cheap.

[genphreak]

Sure-

avoid 'pushing the bushing'...
far better to not beat around the bush...
how much effort mus one goto, to get some bush on your arm

and if 'The Force' is not with you it matters not...

[ryan roopnarine]

There's only one way that I'd go about removing an arm from your car--especially if you're trying to save the boots. More specifically, I'd remove the steering knuckle (and the tie rod from it using a non-destructive tie-rod puller) and do it off the car in a vice. Everything you need to do this is available for rental at autozone. Jon K had a post about this with the pics that outline what I'm trying to describe more clearly, but the pic is dead. You put the knuckle in a vice, put a chevy balljoint press over the joint you are trying to get out, and use another puller to pull the works apart. I can't imagine doing it another way without breaking tools and being a bigger PITA than it needs to be. Put the whole works in a vice, give a long-ish ratchet or wrench some average to moderate force and the joint pops out without much drama. All of the tools of appropriate quality are available at AZ; you give them close to 100$ to rent them and you get all of your money back if they get them back in working order.

[MBXB]

I had this in my bookmarks from way back. I'm surprised it's still live:

E34 Front strut and bushing replacement (http://home.comcast.net/%7Ewinstonfong/repairpagessite2/strutreplacement.htm)




There's only one way that I'd go about removing an arm from your car--especially if you're trying to save the boots. More specifically, I'd remove the steering knuckle (and the tie rod from it using a non-destructive tie-rod puller) and do it off the car in a vice. Everything you need to do this is available for rental at autozone. Jon K had a post about this with the pics that outline what I'm trying to describe more clearly, but the pic is dead. You put the knuckle in a vice, put a chevy balljoint press over the joint you are trying to get out, and use another puller to pull the works apart. I can't imagine doing it another way without breaking tools and being a bigger PITA than it needs to be. Put the whole works in a vice, give a long-ish ratchet or wrench some average to moderate force and the joint pops out without much drama. All of the tools of appropriate quality are available at AZ; you give them close to 100$ to rent them and you get all of your money back if they get them back in working order.

[632 Regal]

I had this in my bookmarks from way back. I'm surprised it's still live:

E34 Front strut and bushing replacement (http://home.comcast.net/%7Ewinstonfong/repairpagessite2/strutreplacement.htm)

Great save man! When I redo mine I just request I want the 850 bushings on the Lemforder arms. got about 98K now on them and it doesn't look like I need to do anything. Had bad luck with the 750 bushings several times which are archived here somewhere. 1st set popped the bushing from the round housing on a brake test. Second one busted on a hard stop. (forget the stock ones, for me they popped right after installing) Did I mention I give no mercy to any aftermarket parts? I would never do less than the 850 bushings now, they might be noisier but I failed to notice it.

[ryan roopnarine]

I had this in my bookmarks from way back. I'm surprised it's still live:

E34 Front strut and bushing replacement (http://home.comcast.net/%7Ewinstonfong/repairpagessite2/strutreplacement.htm)


That's remarkably similar to what Jon suggested in intent.
Here's his post--sans picture:

http://www.bimmernut.com/forum/5-series-bmw/23585-ball-joint.html

To follow his procedure, you'd rent this kit for 99.99

OEM/Pitman arm and ball joint kit (27181) | Pitman Arm Tool | AutoZone.com (http://www.autozone.com/autozone/accessories/OEM-Pitman-arm-and-ball-joint-kit/_/N-25t7?itemIdentifier=900820&_requestid=27093)

and this one for 139.99

OEM/Ball joint/U-Joint press set with 4WD service set (27089) | Ball Joint Press | AutoZone.com (http://www.autozone.com/autozone/accessories/OEM-Ball-joint-U-Joint-press-set-with-4WD-service-set/_/N-264q?itemIdentifier=516524_0_0)_

You would use the small tie rod puller in the first kit to detach the tie rods. After that, you'd unbolt the 3 bolts from the bottom of the steering knuckle (pictured in Ramon's link) which the tie rod and both control arms are mounted to. You'd then do the easy work of taking the 2 big bolts (one for each arm) out of the upper and lower arms.

The (easy) procedure for the arms is difficult to explain without the pic. The steering knuckle goes into a vice. You'd put one of the pullers from the second kit onto the joint you are trying to get out. THEN you put the big press over the joint and snug it up. Turn the smaller puller with a breaker bar and POP! you get the sound of joy for the E34 owner--a ball joint that comes out with the absolute minimum of effort.


As I said before, Autozone gives you your money back if you return the tool within 90 days, so you're only out the 200$+ for as long as it takes you to complete the repair.

I'll try the internet wayback machine to see if I can get a pic of Jon's idea.

Good luck.

[Rustam]

I use this puller. It is VERY effective. I do not know the material type. But this one looks exactly same, perhaps you can use google image search to find it:

7829