1992 525 touring radio swap

[Jachenbach]

Just replaced the original radio with a radio from an E36 radio model C33. Car has the 6 speaker system so I don't believe there is an amplifier (if there is I cannot find it, looked in the left side well by the fixed window). Both radios have the same 17 pin plug. Question can I install an amplifier and is the car pre-wired? I found the cd and phone wires?

[shogun]

Here is some onfo on the C33 on E36 Frankie's BMW :: 3 Series :: DIY Procedures :: Factory-Look Audio Upgrades (http://www.frankies-bmw.com/3series/diy/audio/bmw_3series_audio_upgrades.php)

BMW C33 and CD43 Radios (http://www.eabjr.com/Business-Radio-C33-and-CD43.php)
http://www.tehnomagazin.com/Auto-radio-car-connector/BMW-Car-Radio-Wiring-Connector.htm
I replaced the C33 against a CD43 on my 1998 E36 M3, the amp on my M3 is in the trunk, right side.
I cannot use the original C33 in US specification here in Japan due to different frequencies.

[genphreak]

That's a good question but I doubt it is fully pre-wired for the amp unless it had the 10 speaker system. The wires for the door tweeters are there in the front door looms and they must run somewhere- maybe to the back but I doubt you have the big multi-pin amplifier plugs. But you never know... it may depend on something silly like whether the car was ordered with the CD changer or not. To see, clear anything in the cabin and trunk and pull the trunk carpet, inspect the wires in the loom running at the top left side of the body rail. Where the amp should be on the left side of the trunk there would need to be the two large yellow, white or blue connectors wrapped and waiting.

The speaker wiring that exists is split into pairs to the radio connector as the amp is a booster amp. It is a very old-school arrangement (as is the wiring of the e34), but it is also very ingeniously custom-designed. I'm not a fan of the amp itself, or the radios, but the wiring, the amp equalisation (in the 10 spkr system) and the speakers are absolutely excellent- and easily retained/upgraded if you do it with care. To splice in the amp's wiring neatly, snip the speaker wires (from a suitable place in the left side loom) & terminate the ends that used to go to the dash radio.

Splice into the loom the wiring that will connect to the amplifier outputs. Test install the amp under the shelf and figure out how best to connect the power and remote power lead- as well as the low level wiring that will go to the pre-amp inputs. Try to keep them apart as they are susceptible to noise. The remote lead is certainly already in the loom, but you will need to find it. (Find the pin-outs for the radio connector to isolate the colour-coding of the wire, probably blue with a green or white stripe. Once you know, you can isolate it at the rear with ease. This, as well as what speaker wires are there, are wrapped and relatively well shielded in the loom (which is good as it is the wire most likely to pickup static noise from other wires)

Pull up the rear seat and poke the low level wiring under the carpet to the console, and on from there to the radio. If you luck out and discover that all the 10 speaker wires are available in the rear harness, you can avoid installing the low level power wires altogether by utilising the now disconnected/terminated wiring that was connected to the radio before you started. Plenty of people have done this and reported excellent results just by soldering on wires with RCA connectors, at each end.

The 12VDC power wiring can also be brought through from the trunk (suggest the right side, as this is where the factory wiring runs safely) and will put you right beside the battery with the shortest wire also. The wires must be run where there is no chance of snagging or chaffing on the body or with rear seat components. It is easiest esp when doing it the first time to remove the whole rear seat. The lower cushion unclipped up earlier by hand and you just need clean hands, a 10mm socket, ratchet and extension to remove the top cushion)-taking care not to damage the edges of the trims around it.

Install a neat termination point near the battery, then run the main power wire to the amp, making sure it is well fused and will not get touched or crushed when someone has to move the battery.

The most practical amp to use in an e32 or e34 is a 4x stereo with a subwoofer channel (Eg a 5x100W) that can be easily mounted under the parcel shelf.

If you can find enough pre-wiring for the amp you'll be able to tap into the front speaker wires in the trunk, which will make things easier. (Again, take a look at the colour coding in the plug to help you see them). If not, Body wiring runs down the rails on both sides of the floor-pan- so you can carefully pry up the edge strips and foot well panels to slip some speaker wire in with that. On an e34 it is simplest to run 3 short wires, rather than snake longer ones through the dash. The body already has 20kg of loom in it, no need to make things worse... lol

[Jachenbach]

Really embarrassed there are 10 speakers but no amp. Power and cd connector and what looks like a printer cable that I assume is for the phone. Bently drawing shows amplifier, was there a system that just had a radio and no amplifier in the 1992 525 touring.
thanks again,

jim