The emergency unlock procedure isn't working

[Gayle]

The trunk was ajar. It ran the battery dead. Doors locked. Trunk not locked.

Tried the turn the key to the left, lift handle, and repeat 17 times. The lift push pin in the door (can't think of its name) is mostly up but the door still won't open.

Thought I would have the access for skis from back seat to truck, but the carpet is firmly glued up the back of the trunk. Don't want to tear it out if it turns out that access was an option I don't have.

I would just have AAA tow it to my fav mechanic, but it is parked in a subterranean garage that is a bitch to get in and out of.

Any suggestions?

[Bill R.]

I think yours is an early car like mine, in that case its the passenger side door and you first hold the handle all the way up while turning the key hard.... on some i have had to hold the key turned hard while working the handle up and down, you can see the lock knob moving a little bit each time you pull the handle while the key is twisted hard... or twisting the key back and forth towards the unlock while working the handle... eventually it will move far enough for the door to unlock.

[Paul in NZ]

this is how it worked for me..each attempt at lifting handle turning key worked the pin a little further up.Some times no movement,but it will eventually work...the movement is right at the limit of travel of either handle or key,cant remember exactly

[shogun]

yes, try passenger side door. here the info again
BMW E34 Website (http://www.bmwe34.net/E34main/Trouble/Locked.htm)

[Gayle]

Have tried both doors numerous times. The pins are pretty high up but it still won't unlock. I keep thinking the next time will do it, but so far it hasn't happened.

Thinking more seriously about trying to go in through the trunk. Any thoughts on that?

Also got the following suggestion from a friend. Any thoughts about it?

If the trunk is still unlocked, take the trunk light bulb out (either of the ones that drained the battery)
See if the AAA guy can jumper to the bulb terminals; pos to pos; neg to neg;
Let the juice flow a while and try to unlock it normally.
You just want to get enough charge in there to work the electric door locks.
Then you can pop the hood and jumper normally to start.


Thanks for your help.

[whiskychaser]

Was only talking to a workmate about this issue last night. He just bought a solar powered charger for his E46. Not a lot of use in an underground car park but what IS useful is that it is only a few watts power. It isnt really designed to charge a flat battery but you only need a little charge to work the locks. My concern with hooking up a normal charger is that the trunk light wires are not designed for it and may get hot. I did a quick search for something that is not solar powered but still has a low power output but drew a blank. If such a beast exists that is the way to go

[shogun]

@Gayle: To power thru the trunk light is described in the link I posted already, please read it, here again
BMW E34 Website (http://www.bmwe34.net/E34main/Trouble/Locked.htm)


Here more detailed:

unlocking doors via trunk light connections.
The emergency unlock is known by lifting the passenger door handle and then turning the key over a certain resistance.
Even with a dead battery the trunk can be opened with the key by turning it anti-clockwise and then push the door unlock button.


A few pointers to connecting power to the boot/trunk lamp:

Firstly, the boot/trunk light is a good place to connect power as it is constantly connected to the battery via Fuse 33. However, you must only use a charger at this point, and only one that can supply a maximum of 10A. If you use a fully-charged battery you will blow Fuse 33.

The boot/trunk light has two wires going to it, RED/WHITE is the positive supply, connect the chargers +ve terminal to here. Connect the charger-ve lead to somewhere on the chassis.....this removes any possibility of reverse polarity.

When the charger is connected and charging, allow 10 minutes before trying the central locking, this is just enough time to get enough charge in the battery to supply the locks.

If you have not got a charger you can use a battery but MUST connect it via a 55W (headlamp) bulb. This reduces the current to a safe level.

DON'T connect to any other lighting point, these go via the LKM or General Module and it is not a good idea to stuff power up these!

[whiskychaser]

Erich, I agree with the above in principle but have some misgivings. I think the reason you would not use a fullly charged battery is that it is capable of supplying a lot more than 10amps and the flat battery will try to draw as much as possible. Even 10amps seems 10 times too much to me: I dont know the bulb wattage but doubt it can be more than 12 watts. So that means the current is only going to be 1 amp and the wiring will be of a suitable thickness. But if you provide any more, are you not in danger of making an impromptu electric fire? I used to have a 10 amp battery charger. If you connected it at full power to a flat battery, it would melt its own in-line fuse holder.

[genphreak]

On my 10/88 euro 535i I had a lot more trouble than the later cars, and had to use the passenger side.

I didn't do the bit by bit method, instead went s-l-o-w-l-y turning both key and lifting handle. Had to get the sequence/speed right or it wouldn't work out. I found many times getting to 90% wouldn't work and I'd only lock it on the next attempt. But eventually I'd get it- and yes it takes many times. But if it does not lift after moving the key and the handle about 30% of the way, stop and retry as going all the way does nothing by that point.

Give it patience and lots of elbow (or rather... maybe knuckle) grease. Is your battery a tad old now Gayle- has this one given you good service?

[Gayle]

Thanks for the imput. Will continue to work with it.

[Gayle]

Gave up on finessing the emergency unlock procedure. Am going to Nappa Auto Parts to buy a charger to try the truck light method.

Looked online to make a selection trying to keep in mind the concerns about not exceeding 10 amps and that 10 amps could be too much if the dead battery pulled the current. There are too many charger choices. 1 amp, 1.5 amps, 2 amps, 5 amps, 6 amps. Some say 6volts, 12 volts or both.

What should I get?

[whiskychaser]

Had a quick look around and there seem to be lots in the 12V 6-10 amp range. I call that a fast charge and would be looking for one with switchable trickle charge. That normally brings it down to about 2amps. You may be OK with that but I'd start by also inserting an inline fuse holder (for a radio?) with a 1amp fuse in it.

[genphreak]

Had a quick look around and there seem to be lots in the 12V 6-10 amp range. I call that a fast charge and would be looking for one with switchable trickle charge. That normally brings it down to about 2amps. You may be OK with that but I'd start by also inserting an inline fuse holder (for a radio?) with a 1amp fuse in it.

+2 - too right, 2A is more than enough for that wiring.

[632 Regal]

Get what they tell you.

[whiskychaser]

This isnt still in the underground car park is it?

[Gayle]

Wanted to let you know the resolution. Put the 2 amp charger on the wiring to the trunk light. Left it on for 2 days. Nothing....

Plan B--was going to get it towed to favorite mechanic. Yes it was still in underground car park. But hey, I saw the police and a tow truck get a car that was parallel parked out of a space by jacking up each wheel and putting it on these roller thingy, so I figured it could be gotten out of the garage that way. AAA comes and they won't do that for fear of damaging car. First AAA guy goes to passenger door and tries emergency unlock procedure. I watch to see if he has magic touch. Nothing.

I really did not want them to pick my lock. I saw a guy pick the lock on hubby's 1990 525. On Hubby's car they put this little bladder thing between door and frame and inflated it to create a space to get in and pull up the lock. I was sure it would torque my door permanently. But I felt like I had run out of options. So first AAA guy calls the lock picking specialist.

Specialist arrives. He tries emergency unlock procedure. Again nothing. Then he pulls out a slim jim. This guy knew what he was doing. I figure he got a lot of his experience boosting cars in east LA as a kid. He went in between the window and the outer door frame. In 2 minutes or less he had it unlocked. I was cheering and telling him he was the man. Tipped em both and we were all filled with joy.

Rather than have them jump it and me have to drive it, I had them hook up the 12 volt charger to the jump points under the hood. About an hour later, it was fully charged and started fine.

When I had the e30 convertible, I never locked it--just put on the code. I think I will do that in the future on this car. I don't ever want to be locked out again.

[Bill R.]

Gayle if you're really concerned about getting stuck again you can run some 10 gauge wire from the 2 jumper posts under the hood up to the front and exit out the bottom by the foglight and tape them off so you can attach a battery or jumper cables there in the future, it doesn't take much current to operate the door locks. oddly enough i haven't run into one yet that i couldn't do the emergency unlock procedure on but i've only done maybe 15 or so .

[genphreak]

Good to read you found a creative solution to the kind of problem we all will eventually hit. Battrey going flat, if it happens again is either the battery going bad or the charging failing. Or it could be the heater valves not working right and draining a small amount of power on full cold once the car shuts down- or some aftermarket accessory, etc. Better luck in future - maybe your car is getting cranky in its old age and doing all it can to keep all humans inc. you OUT.

Maybe she just needs a little more love every now and then to stay happier...

[mattyb]

Its all about the love mate

[BMWFatherFigure]

A low power (1.5A / 1500mA) will charge the battery through the boot (trunk) globe holder - over time - 2days. The 55w globe trick will give instant results but you could have a mate work the lock as soon as the connection is made to minimize the time the high current is in the wire.

[BMWFatherFigure]

Has anything worked? Is the car unlocked now?