Removing the airbag and changing the dash bulbs - A BillR Archive

[bimmer nut]

Removing the airbag and changing the dash bulbs

1. First you disconnect the negative battery cable. This is critical. Make sure you have the code for the radio before doing this.
Its very important that you disconnect the battery before doing anything else, if you don't you will trip the airbag code when you turn the key to remove the
steering wheel... I have had many many emails from people who didn't do this and now want to know how to turn the airbag light on the dash off...

http://www.bimmernut.com/forum/attachments/5-series-bmw/7923d1385824922-bill-r-your-steering-wheel-removal-info-does-not-work-dash-cluster1a-copy.jpg

http://www.bimmernut.com/forum/attachments/5-series-bmw/7924d1385824923-bill-r-your-steering-wheel-removal-info-does-not-work-dashcluster2a-copy.jpg

2. Wait a few minutes for the airbag to discharge, then remove the 2 philips screws that hold the steering column
cover on the bottom.

http://www.bimmernut.com/forum/attachments/5-series-bmw/7925d1385824923-bill-r-your-steering-wheel-removal-info-does-not-work-dashcluster3a-copy.jpg

Make sure you disconnected the batteryThen you remove the bottom cover on the steering column. When thats removed you will see a orange connector.
Thats the airbag connector. Squeeze the clip ends and seperate the connector. Remove the end that goes to the steering
wheel from the post its fastened to.

http://www.bimmernut.com/forum/attachments/5-series-bmw/7926d1385824923-bill-r-your-steering-wheel-removal-info-does-not-work-dashcluster4a-copy.jpg

Using a T27 torx socket or driver then remove the 2 screws on the back of the steering wheel that hold the airbag in place.

http://www.bimmernut.com/forum/attachments/5-series-bmw/7928d1385824924-bill-r-your-steering-wheel-removal-info-does-not-work-dashcluster5a-copy.jpg

Next you carefully lift the airbag assy off of the wheel and disconnect the plug on the back. It comes straight out to remove. Then set the airbag aside in a place where it won't get disturbed or damaged.

http://www.bimmernut.com/forum/attachments/5-series-bmw/7929d1385824925-bill-r-your-steering-wheel-removal-info-does-not-work-dashcluster6a-copy.jpg

Then you remove the 22mm self-locking nut that holds the steering wheel on. This nut is to be replaced as it's only intended to be used
once. The torque when reinstalling is 59 ft.lbs. Once that nut is removed, mark the steering shaft and the wheel with a marker. A line across both so you can put the wheel back on in the same place. Put the key in the ignition next and turn to the run position. The wheel will then lift off.


http://www.bimmernut.com/forum/attachments/5-series-bmw/7930d1385824925-bill-r-your-steering-wheel-removal-info-does-not-work-dashcluster7a-copy.jpg

Once the wheel is out of the way you remove the 2 philips screw that are in the top of the instrument cluster and carefully pull the
cluster out far enough to remove the wiring connectors on the back. There are little levers you raise to release the connectors.

http://www.bimmernut.com/forum/attachments/5-series-bmw/7931d1385824925-bill-r-your-steering-wheel-removal-info-does-not-work-dashcluster8-copy.jpg

http://www.bimmernut.com/forum/attachments/5-series-bmw/7932d1385824926-bill-r-your-steering-wheel-removal-info-does-not-work-dashcluster9-copy.jpg

Next lay the instrument cluster down on a towel or mat to protect the face and on the back is most of the bulbs. To get
to the 3 that provide the main illumination at night you have to turn the 2 latches counterclockwise 1/4 turn and swing the back
panel up. The rest of the bulbs are on the back panel.

This car was a 1990 525i, it had:
6 - 1.5 watt bulbs
3- 3 watt bulbs
13- 1.2 watt bulbs

The 1.5 watt bulbs I had to get from Bmw, all the rest were available through aftermarket sources. The 1.5s provide the lighting
for the gear indicator on an automatic,the check instrument display, the service indicator and the odometer. These are the ones that are on most of the time.

The 1.2s I wasn't as concerned about changing since they aren't on nearly as much. These are all the warning lights, turn signals, bright indicator etc.

The 3 watts I changed since they are the gauge lighting at night.

http://www.bimmernut.com/forum/attachments/5-series-bmw/7933d1385826033-bill-r-your-steering-wheel-removal-info-does-not-work-dashcluster10a-copy.jpg

http://www.bimmernut.com/forum/attachments/5-series-bmw/7934d1385826034-bill-r-your-steering-wheel-removal-info-does-not-work-dashcluster11-copy.jpg



I think that about covers it all. Then put it back together in the reverse. Make sure you don't hook up the battery until the very last. Turn the key off after the steering wheel is installed, then reconnect the battery.
Otherwise it will trigger an srs code and have to be reset. One other note, On most of the other e34 models the battery is under the rear seat. To gain access just pull up really hard on the front bottom of the seat. While your in there you can look at the bottom of the steering wheel where the copper paste is and spread it around if you have a squeaking problem. A few other notes as well. Some models will
have a nut holding the steering wheel on , some will have a bolt instead. You don't abolutely have to replace the bolt or nut, you can just use loctite on it if needed. Also some airbags will take a t27 torx, some will take a t29 torx.

[632 Regal]

This should be a sticky in the archives.

[mattyb]

funny time to see this, I have a new oem steering wheel that came from the PO and I was thinking of doing it next week, not having removed the steering before I was going to start searching for exactly this. great suggestion Regal

[BennyM]

If you have a telescoping wheel, you can remove the cluster by jacking up the front of the car and wedging the cluster into the top opening of the steering wheel. After that, you just rotate the wheel to the left and wiggle the cluster out. You'll still want to disconnect the battery, or course.

[shogun]

Please repair the pic links, thanks

[genphreak]

.... I bet it was that url re-writing crud reaping more havoc. God I hate SEO 'experts' who have NFI about how to implement logic atop hypertext as they never read about HTML v1.0 or anything since. Re-writing the URLs of stuff is a great idea, but content sustainability becomes the responsibility of the person doing the re-writing.

IOW, they should take it seriously and give their customers the tools they need to return their sites to the old scheme, AND to do that properly they need to update all the previously re-written hyperlinks.

[632 Regal]

.... I bet it was that url re-writing crud reaping more havoc. God I hate SEO 'experts' who have NFI about how to implement logic atop hypertext as they never read about HTML v1.0 or anything since. Re-writing the URLs of stuff is a great idea, but content sustainability becomes the responsibility of the person doing the re-writing.

IOW, they should take it seriously and give their customers the tools they need to return their sites to the old scheme, AND to do that properly they need to update all the previously re-written hyperlinks.

Yes would be nice, I will print the OP and see how it goes without the pictures lol.

[MBXB]

I have a PDF file with pics that I saved from way back. . PM me with an email

Ramon

[Bill R.]

Here is a early version of the page from 2003

https://web.archive.org/web/20030203202529/http://www.lehrmangroup.com/rickard/airBagAndBulbs.html

[genphreak]

Here is a early version of the page from 2003

https://web.archive.org/web/20030203202529/http://www.lehrmangroup.com/rickard/airBagAndBulbs.html

Good catch, well done Bill! Just need someone to edit the post and re-attach the images from that link in the Internet Archive. So much histroy to re-write, it almost makes me cry.

[632 Regal]

Not sure how long this will work.

Removing the airbag and changing the dash bulbs

1. First you disconnect the negative battery cable. This is critical.
Make sure you have the code for the radio before doing this.

https://web.archive.org/web/20030203202529im_/http://www.lehrmangroup.com/rickard/dashcluster1a.jpg

https://web.archive.org/web/20030203202529im_/http://www.lehrmangroup.com/rickard/dashcluster2a.jpg

2. Wait a few minutes for the airbag to discharge, then remove the 2 philips screws that hold the steering column cover on the bottom.

https://web.archive.org/web/20030203202529im_/http://www.lehrmangroup.com/rickard/dashcluster3a.jpg

Make sure you disconnected the battery. Then you remove the bottom cover on the steering column. When that's removed you will see an orange connector. That's the airbag connector.Squeeze the clip ends and separate the connector. Remove the end that goes to the steering wheel from the post its fastened to.

https://web.archive.org/web/20030203202529im_/http://www.lehrmangroup.com/rickard/dashcluster4a.jpg

Using a T27 torx socket or driver, then remove the 2 screws on the back of the steering wheel that hold the airbag in place.

https://web.archive.org/web/20030203202529im_/http://www.lehrmangroup.com/rickard/dashcluster5a.jpg

Next you carefully lift the airbag assembly off of the wheel and disconnect the plug on the back. It comes straight out to remove. Then set the airbag aside in a place where it won't get disturbed or damaged.

https://web.archive.org/web/20030203202529im_/http://www.lehrmangroup.com/rickard/dashcluster6a.jpg

Then you remove the 22mm self-locking nut that holds the steering wheel on. This nut is to be replaced as it's only intended to be used once. The torque when reinstalling is 59 ft.lbs. Once that nut is removed, mark the steering shaft and the wheel with a marker. A line across both so you can put the wheel back on in the same place. Put the key in the ignition next and turn to the run position. The wheel will then lift off.

https://web.archive.org/web/20030203202529im_/http://www.lehrmangroup.com/rickard/dashcluster7a.jpg

Once the wheel is out of the way you remove the 2 philips screw that are in the top of the instrument cluster and carefully pull the cluster out far enough to remove the wiring connectors on the back. There are little levers you raise to release the connectors.

https://web.archive.org/web/20030203202529im_/http://www.lehrmangroup.com/rickard/dashcluster8.jpg

https://web.archive.org/web/20030203202529im_/http://www.lehrmangroup.com/rickard/dashcluster9.jpg

Next lay the instrument cluster down on a towel or mat to protect the face and on the back is most of the bulbs. To get
to the 3 that provide the main illumination at night you have to turn the 2 latches counterclockwise 1/4 turn and swing the back
panel up. The rest of the bulbs are on the back panel.

This car was a 1990 525i, it had:
6 - 1.5 watt bulbs
3- 3 watt bulbs
13- 1.2 watt bulbs

The 1.5 watt bulbs I had to get from BMW, all the rest were available through aftermarket sources. The 1.5s provide the lighting for the gear indicator on an automatic, the check instrument display, the service indicator and the odometer. These are the ones that are on most of the time.

The 1.2s I wasn't as concerned about changing since they aren't on nearly as much. These are all the warning lights, turn signals, bright indicator etc.

The 3 watts I changed since they are the gauge lighting at night.

https://web.archive.org/web/20030203202529im_/http://www.lehrmangroup.com/rickard/dashcluster10a.jpg

https://web.archive.org/web/20030203202529im_/http://www.lehrmangroup.com/rickard/dashcluster11.jpg

I think that about covers it all. Then put it back together in the reverse. Make sure you don't hook up the battery until the very last. Turn the key off after the steering wheel is installed, then reconnect the battery. Otherwise it will trigger an srs code and have to be reset. One other note, On most of the other e34 models the battery is under the rear seat. To gain access just pull up really hard on the front bottom of the seat. While your in there you can look at the bottom of the steering wheel where the copper paste is and spread it around if you have a squeaking problem. A few other notes as well. Some models will

have a nut holding the steering wheel on , some will have a bolt instead. You don't abolutely have to replace the bolt or nut, you can just use loctite on it if needed. Also some airbags will take a t27 torx, some will take a t29 torx.

[John B.]

I've never found it necessary to pull the steering wheel when removing the instrument cluster on our 535i or our old 525iT.

[632 Regal]

I've never found it necessary to pull the steering wheel when removing the instrument cluster on our 535i or our old 525iT.

Me neither but I will admit that the only ones I took the dash out were with telescoping wheels. I have no idea how I would get one out if I couldn't pull the wheel back. My first E34 the dash would not fit till I loosened the 31mm nut behind the dash and pulled it back.

[John B.]

My 535i doesn't have the telescoping feature. I just back out the two bolts that hold the clamp just behind the ignition switch area so that the steering wheel can drop about a half inch or so. When I pull the cluster out of the dash I hold it up against the steering wheel, turn the wheel to the left & lift out the cluster.

[Bill R.]

You're doing it the hard way John, try it removing the wheel and see how much faster and easier it is.:)

[shogun]

I also just remove the steering wheel, pretty fast, and no scratches or damage to the plastic 'glass' of the cluster housing.

[shogun]

This one from webarchive still has all pics and text
https://web.archive.org/web/20030608092514/http://www.lehrmangroup.com/rickard/airBagAndBulbs.html

Bill, we will upload a copy on the shogun site to have it saved. Will be under instruments

[genphreak]

That's the best damn write up I read I had read it before having a **** of a time doing our Touring's bulbs a few years ago...

The last sentence to be precise:

The bit about the some will have nut, others will have a bolt- and some will have a T27 torx bolt holding the airbag to the steering wheel, some will have a T29...

I remember thinking I was going mad- you can't see the damn things so you simply end up defeated no matter how hard you try (assuming you avoided damaging things)!

Mine had 2x T29s holding the airbag, and a bolt holding the wheel. @#$%^&*

[shogun]

http://bmwe32.masscom.net/billrickard/steeringwheel/steeringwheel.htm

here it is now, I asked Mike to save it on his site

[genphreak]

Nice one mate, and 'good on' the boys.

Now I can see mine were T29 torx bolts. Who decided to use T27 or T29 when they could have used T30. Especially in a place where galvanic corrosion is assured... Grrr!